Alberto

Axles: Hybrid Racing $299
Shift Cables: Hasport $230
Shifter Box: Hasport $75
Mounts Hybrid Racing $599
Harness Hybrid Racing FREE
Header K20EG $699
Fuel Pressure Regulator: AEM $171
Fuel Lines K20EG $200
Civic Si Idler Pulley/Bracket $66
NAPA Serpentine Belt $45

*UPDATED*

Do I really need a fuel pressure regulator or shifter cables?

Modified by Alberto at 6:23 PM 8/30/2004


Modified by Alberto at 12:15 AM 8/31/2004

brian g

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Alberto &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Do I really need a fuel pressure regulator or shifter cables?
</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yes, but here's some better prices

Shift Cables Hasport $230
Shifter Box Hasport $75
Serpentine Belt NAPA $45

The shifter and cables are the same price as you should be able to get from Acura. You'd still need a shift **** and some clips and stuff. If your not going to run and AC compressor, you can't use a Civic Si serpentine belt BTW.

brian g

brian g

Here're some more prices.

AEM Universal Fuel Pressure Regulator Google $189
Hasport EG/DC K series mounts Full Race $575

With all the money I saving you, you could afford to get the Hasport conversion harness and have the car properly wired. Just think, your check engine light, alternator light and low brake fluid warning light would work and you fuel pump would turn on and off with the ECU instead of the ignition.

brian g

k20GSR

You can get the DTR Fabfor 699? I thought they were like 1200 for a header.

Alberto

K20EG i believe.

ShaunRR

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Alberto &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">K20EG i believe.</TD></TR></TABLE>

The K20EG header is made by Protech Fab, not DTR. The DTR runs about 1100.

Brian, are you doggin someone elses product(harness)? I have NEVER seen you do this before.

Had a bad day?

beeseries

Is there any truth to this? Reffering to the harness?

ShaunRR

Brian is not one to lie about this stuff.

6SPD_EK

iTrader: (2)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by beeseries &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Is there any truth to this? Reffering to the harness?</TD></TR></TABLE>

umm...yes - something I have looked into quite extensively

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by rochesterricer &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Brian is not one to lie about this stuff.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I 2nd that - also helps explain why hasport's harness is much more complicated the others

see here https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=921343

I must state - that as of now no-one has had problems with hybrid-racing's engine harness...

I have talk to hybrid-racing & I am going to try to have them make me a custom INTERIOR harness - that would work together with a, close to stock, RSX-S engine harness (using all stock RSX-S relays)...Only thing is I will have to supply donor car (EK) engine & firewall harnesses (maybe floor harness too) AND RSX-S engine & interior harnesses - as well as the RSX-S interior fuse box/multiplexor...with all this I should be able to run a RSX-S gauge cluster (& yes all this WOULD be needed to run a fully functional RSX-S gauge cluster)

BTW to save even more money I found HT member BERT-O can get most of the EP3 pulley parts MUCH cheaper
here are his prices
pulley 31190-PRA-000 $23.78
bracket 31175-PRA-000 $42.04
washer 31185-PCX-003 $5.40
bolt 90031-PRA-000 $1.54

if you are NOT running A/C like almost everyone out there you will need a custom belt (ie NON-OEM) that is 50.5" long & has 7 ribs - you can buy one at kragen for around $17 - kragen belt part # is 5070505 (this is for k20 swaps - can anyone (brian g) verify you'd need the same belt for k24 swaps?

here's to keeping K-series swap prices as low as possible



Modified by adirondackR at 9:32 AM 8/28/2004

Alberto

Good replies.

Regarding brian trustworthyness, I have changed my harness from Hybrid Racing to Hasport until Hybrid Racing confirm the full potential of their harness.

Here is the updated list:

Axles: K20EG $299
Shift Cables: Hasport $230
Shifter Box: Hasport $75
Mounts Hybrid Racing $599
Harness Hybrid Racing FREE
Header K20EG $699
Fuel Pressure Regulator: AEM $171
Fuel Lines K20EG $200
Civic Si Idler Pulley/Bracket $66
NAPA Serpentine Belt $45



Modified by Alberto at 12:00 AM 8/29/2004

Goatsterrman

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by brian g &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Here're some more prices.

AEM Universal Fuel Pressure Regulator Google $189
Hasport EG/DC K series mounts Full Race $575

With all the money I saving you, you could afford to get the Hasport conversion harness and have the car properly wired. Just think, your check engine light, alternator light and low brake fluid warning light would work and you fuel pump would turn on and off with the ECU instead of the ignition.

brian g</TD></TR></TABLE>

I don’t know if you are referring to us but just incase I will clarify:

The check engine light does work with the conversion harness.
The low brake fluid warning light does work with the conversion harness.
The alternator light does work with the conversion harness.
With a JDM ecu the ignition kicks on the fuel pump.
With a Kpro the ecu kicks on the fuel pump.

You do not have to wire up the alternator light or the brake fluid light. Its the customers call.

-New OEM connectors
-NO CORE
-Free with purchase of hybrid racing mounts for a limited time.
-The harness ships 3-4 days from time of order.

We have had no complaints about the harness. If anyone has any questions regarding hybrid racing products please feel free to call us at 1-985-951-8588, 1-985-951-7088 or you can email us at info@hybrid-racing.com.

Thanks

Alberto

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Goatsterrman &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

I don’t know if you are referring to us but just incase I will clarify:

The check engine light does work with the conversion harness.
The low brake fluid warning light does work with the conversion harness.
The alternator light does work with the conversion harness.
With a JDM ecu the ignition kicks on the fuel pump.
With a Kpro the ecu kicks on the fuel pump.

You do not have to wire up the alternator light or the brake fluid light. Its the customers call.

-New OEM connectors
-NO CORE
-Free with purchase of hybrid racing mounts for a limited time.
-The harness ships 3-4 days from time of order.

We have had no complaints about the harness. If anyone has any questions regarding hybrid racing products please feel free to call us at 1-985-951-8588, 1-985-951-7088 or you can email us at info@hybrid-racing.com.

Thanks


</TD></TR></TABLE>

Customer service is all. Thanks for clarifying everything.

brian g

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by rochesterricer &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Brian, are you doggin someone elses product(harness)? I have NEVER seen you do this before.

Had a bad day?</TD></TR></TABLE>

I realize that their price is "FREE" but here's the issue. If you have a leaky master cylinder, cracked resevoir or a leaky brake line you may not realize your problem until your foot goes to the floor while trying to stop for some kid who rode his BMX bike in front of you.

Or how about your driving back from NOPI at night and you notice your lights are dimming because your alternator has gone bad and your still 100 miles from home, how are you gonna feel.

Or my favorite PM, "hey my car seems kind of slow can you help me?" I ask, "is your check engine light on or does it work?" They say, "I'm sure it works but it's not on." They spend the next two weeks guessing at the problem spending money on things that aren't the problem.

Oh yeah, I forgot to mention their harness lacks temperature gauge wiring and the radiator fan switch wiring, but that really doesn't cause any problems does it. Well other than maybe warping the head or some other minor inconvenience.

Sometimes "FREE" is just too high a price to pay.

brian g

0hybrid racing

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by brian g &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

I realize that their price is "FREE" but here's the issue. If you have a leaky master cylinder, cracked resevoir or a leaky brake line you may not realize your problem until your foot goes to the floor while trying to stop for some kid who rode his BMX bike in front of you.

Or how about your driving back from NOPI at night and you notice your lights are dimming because your alternator has gone bad and your still 100 miles from home, how are you gonna feel.

Or my favorite PM, "hey my car seems kind of slow can you help me?" I ask, "is your check engine light on or does it work?" They say, "I'm sure it works but it's not on." They spend the next two weeks guessing at the problem spending money on things that aren't the problem.

Oh yeah, I forgot to mention their harness lacks temperature gauge wiring and the radiator fan switch wiring, but that really doesn't cause any problems does it. Well other than maybe warping the head or some other minor inconvenience.

Sometimes "FREE" is just too high a price to pay.

brian g</TD></TR></TABLE>

I agree with what you are concerned about brian, but as i posted before all of these features do work with our harness. We provide easy to follow instructions on how to wire in the aforementioned sensors with our harness. The sensors should not take more then 20-30 min by an inexperienced person. In return we are able to have a more cost efficient and quicker turn around time. We made a conscious business decision to make it this way because it requires less down time for the customer. If a customer does have a problem with one of our products then we are available 10-5 M-F for customer support and 24/7 via Email or AIM.

1-985-951-8588
1-985-951-7088
Aim: HONDASPEDER
email: Will@hybrid-racing.com

The check engine light needs to be wired in.
The coolant temp and fan switch need to be wired in.
The Alternator and Brake master cylinder sensor need to be wired in.

This is up to the customer.

Again as previously posted by goatsterman all of the features that you are concerned about will work with our conversion harness.

Thanks


Modified by hybrid racing at 1:02 AM 8/29/2004


Modified by hybrid racing at 2:41 PM 8/29/2004

brian g

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by hybrid racing &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
The check engine light does not need to be wired in.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

Why is that? Is there another way to tell there is a problem when your driving the car?

brian g

Combustion Contraption

This is getting interesting.

ShaunRR

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by brian g &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Why is that? Is there another way to tell there is a problem when your driving the car?

brian g</TD></TR></TABLE>

I'm guessing he is saying that the CEL will work out of the box.

I'm also guessing you are saying otherwise.

You two will have to go into more detail if you want to solve this argument. Brian have you seen their harness first hand?

0hybrid racing

The cel does need to be wired in. This is included in the instructions. I edited the previous post.

We are currently working on a video installation guide that will outline the entire swap. I will post the link here so everyone can follow along as we install the motor. Most importantly everyone can see that the check engine light, alternator light, brake master cylinder switch light, coolant temp and fan switch all work.

As always if anyone has any questions feel free to call or email us.

Thanks.

Nikos

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by hybrid racing &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

The check engine light needs to be wired in.
The coolant temp and fan switch need to be wired in.
The Alternator and Brake master cylinder sensor need to be wired in.

This is up to the customer.

Modified by hybrid racing at 2:41 PM 8/29/2004</TD></TR></TABLE>

Ok now I am officially confused, does the check engine light need to be wired in? YES OR NO?

ShaunRR

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Nikos &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Ok now I am officially confused, does the check engine light need to be wired in? YES OR NO?</TD></TR></TABLE>

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by hybrid racing &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The cel does need to be wired in. This is included in the instructions.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Green JDM-R

OK, first of all i want to say that i have talked to brian g (via email and pm) and will at hybrid-racing (via phone, email, and AIM) and they both are very knowlegdable and customer service oriented. I am very familiar with this situation because i currently own a K20 swapped EM1. My swap consists of parts from both companies (Hasport and Hybrid-Racing) and they both make high quality products.

First thing i want to address is Alberto's intention of using products from K20eg. I highly advise against this due to his track record for being a less-than-average business person. Not to mention your best bet is to buy your axles from the same manufacturer as your mounts. This is to insure best possible axle angle and fitiment because chances are they designed their axles in reference to where their mounts placed the motor.

As far as the wiring harnesses are concerned i have my own view on the situation. Before i did the swap my original intentions were to get my wiring harness from Hasport, but as things progressed money became tighter and i chose to go with the Hybrid-Racing harness. I am using my Hybrid-Racing harness with no problems and install is fairly easy assuming you have some wiring knowledge and you can follow directions. With that being said, my conclusion is this. If you want a 100% plug and play harness with absolutely no work involved (good choice if you don't have any wiring experience and you are scared to try) then the Hasport is the one for you as long as you don't mind spending a couple more bucks. If you don't mind running/connecting a couple wires here and there and money is more of a concern to you then i suggest the Hybid-Racing harness.

Once again, i would like to say that both companies are VERY GOOD in the customer support department and make quality products. No matter which one you choose you will be quite satisfied.

ShaunRR

You brought up a good point. Although they may seem to arguing, lets make something clear. Both Brian of Hasport and Will of Hybrid Racing are very knowledgable and are nice, stand up guys.

There are tons of people who will vouch for both of them. They both go out of their way to make sure EVERY customer is satisfied.

Lousy Beans

Great thread....This is really helping me in planning my KSeries swap

2FastxEg

i have no affiliation with Brian G or HASPORT at all nor do i have affiliation with WIll at HYBRID.... I have used both mount kits... Id have to say that the HASPORT mount kits are far better and better engineered. When i installed the Hybrid mounts on, the mount was kinda flimsy, the one that you install to your tow hook holes... Hasport mount kits fits perfect, i mean perfectly, and uses the best engineering in my opinion on location of mounts. As far as wiring harness, i used HASPORT wiring harness, and their wiring harness is straight forward and easy to use. Im a bone head and using Hasports wiring harness, they have everything color coded so all you have to do is splice/solder in the K series wires to the matching chassis harness in the cabin area of my Eg civic. I didnt have to worry about running any lines to a certain point or anything, all i had to do was match up the colors, double check that the wires go to that certain wire and that was it. I fired up the car on the first crank with no problems at all. Dynoed the car the next day and put out 216 horsepower to the wheels. that easy....

bossman032

I don't agree with you I had problems with hasport mount.

they left out a few things when doing 94+ swaps. also the lever broke

mounts need to be grinded to make em fit also I paid a pretty penny for a mount be held with one bolt. on the driver side ef conversion.