DIY LIP (56k be warned) *Finished
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DIY LIP (56k be warned) *Finished
I decided to move every thing into this thread so it wouldn't be spread out.
Hey Guys,
After searching a bunch and liking the many other lips out there I decided to do my own.
I first started by searching. I read about 60% of all the DIY Lip Articles.
I decided on what I needed and then I made a list.
I then ventured off to Home Depot. After 10 mintues of not finding anything I asked for help. I was looking for Base Cove Molding but what they had looked nothing like it. It had ridges and it looked nasty.
Lowe's was right accross the street so I decided to go there to see if they had what I was looking for.
I found FlexTrim its a molding that came in rolls that looked like the other lips posted.
Here is a picture of the box
here is a close up
For screws I got these
For 20 feet of lining and the 5 screws the price was $6
Here is the car its going on
Notice how the bumper is low on the side its held in by hanger wire.
(The previous owner was soo ghetto) I'll fix that while im doing my lip
The bumper was a pain to get off. It had no bottom screws attaching it the the car so that part was easy On the drivers side fender it had coat hanger twisted to hold it in place. The front lights practicly fell off when I unscrewed them. This is a Warning I thought I was just taking off the bumper and leaving the brace on the car. I figured it was gonna be around 10 pounds.... Well as soon as I un-bolted it it fell on me and I realized how heavy it was
I prepped the bumper by spraying it with Simple green to clean it. Then I sanded it with 150 grit, because it was spray painted dust went every where.
When it came time to put the lip on I first used Painters tape to hold it in place. Then starting from the middle I screwed it in. After I made sure it was tight I unscrewed it and removed the backing covering the glue stuff.
Then I started from the side by removing a good peice of the backing and screwing it in. I did that all the way to the other side and every thing stay tight.
Here is a picture of it
That night I went to install it. The Hynes says to use a jack, but what about my lip? So I needed some help. About an hour later I got it back on.
This is what it looks like now
Here is a side shot (I've taped up that side and when I removed it there was no more gap)
Here is the front up close
The final out come was ok. I need to put somthing on the bottom to keep it from not being straight. This took me about a day and a half.
But thats because I did every thing at night.
I hope this helps some of u
Modified by The ZC at 10:33 AM 8/19/2004
Hey Guys,
After searching a bunch and liking the many other lips out there I decided to do my own.
I first started by searching. I read about 60% of all the DIY Lip Articles.
I decided on what I needed and then I made a list.
I then ventured off to Home Depot. After 10 mintues of not finding anything I asked for help. I was looking for Base Cove Molding but what they had looked nothing like it. It had ridges and it looked nasty.
Lowe's was right accross the street so I decided to go there to see if they had what I was looking for.
I found FlexTrim its a molding that came in rolls that looked like the other lips posted.
Here is a picture of the box
here is a close up
For screws I got these
For 20 feet of lining and the 5 screws the price was $6
Here is the car its going on
Notice how the bumper is low on the side its held in by hanger wire.
(The previous owner was soo ghetto) I'll fix that while im doing my lip
The bumper was a pain to get off. It had no bottom screws attaching it the the car so that part was easy On the drivers side fender it had coat hanger twisted to hold it in place. The front lights practicly fell off when I unscrewed them. This is a Warning I thought I was just taking off the bumper and leaving the brace on the car. I figured it was gonna be around 10 pounds.... Well as soon as I un-bolted it it fell on me and I realized how heavy it was
I prepped the bumper by spraying it with Simple green to clean it. Then I sanded it with 150 grit, because it was spray painted dust went every where.
When it came time to put the lip on I first used Painters tape to hold it in place. Then starting from the middle I screwed it in. After I made sure it was tight I unscrewed it and removed the backing covering the glue stuff.
Then I started from the side by removing a good peice of the backing and screwing it in. I did that all the way to the other side and every thing stay tight.
Here is a picture of it
That night I went to install it. The Hynes says to use a jack, but what about my lip? So I needed some help. About an hour later I got it back on.
This is what it looks like now
Here is a side shot (I've taped up that side and when I removed it there was no more gap)
Here is the front up close
The final out come was ok. I need to put somthing on the bottom to keep it from not being straight. This took me about a day and a half.
But thats because I did every thing at night.
I hope this helps some of u
Modified by The ZC at 10:33 AM 8/19/2004
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Re: (The ZC)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by The ZC »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">dang 54 posts on the making of it and 3 on the finished </TD></TR></TABLE>
It's the views man.
Most people just look for ideas, like the one you did. Sometimes they comment and most of the time they don't(Not necessary)
There are lots of people looking at it, like myself. I will do this too before I go to Nopi Nationals.
So let me be the first to say Thank you.
It's the views man.
Most people just look for ideas, like the one you did. Sometimes they comment and most of the time they don't(Not necessary)
There are lots of people looking at it, like myself. I will do this too before I go to Nopi Nationals.
So let me be the first to say Thank you.
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#8
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i work at lowes!! haha. and i noticed u have a miniture snawzer(sp?) mine passed a few years ago.
anyway, nice write up. what are you going to use on the bottom to support it from being curvy?
anyway, nice write up. what are you going to use on the bottom to support it from being curvy?
#9
Re: DIY LIP (56k be warned) *Finished (The ZC)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by The ZC »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
The final out come was ok. I need to put somthing on the bottom to keep it from not being straight. This took me about a day and a half.
But thats because I did every thing at night.
I hope this helps some of u
Modified by The ZC at 10:33 AM 8/19/2004</TD></TR></TABLE>
If you can find the same stuff, but without that little lip on it, I'm not sure if that is the whole reason why you got that stuff. but if you can find it without that little lower lip, it shouldn't try to straighten out.
The final out come was ok. I need to put somthing on the bottom to keep it from not being straight. This took me about a day and a half.
But thats because I did every thing at night.
I hope this helps some of u
Modified by The ZC at 10:33 AM 8/19/2004</TD></TR></TABLE>
If you can find the same stuff, but without that little lip on it, I'm not sure if that is the whole reason why you got that stuff. but if you can find it without that little lower lip, it shouldn't try to straighten out.
#12
Honda-Tech Member
Re: DIY LIP (The ZC)
it works
You can also reinforce it with some sheet metal so it stays straigth. You have the molding cut just glue it down and cut the metal to length. I know OSH sells the sheet metal in small rolls.
OR
You can go to TAP Plastics and buy the sheet material and the hardening glue. More work, and if you buy the Carbon fiber sheet a little more expensive.
Over all still good work and clever DIY .
You can also reinforce it with some sheet metal so it stays straigth. You have the molding cut just glue it down and cut the metal to length. I know OSH sells the sheet metal in small rolls.
OR
You can go to TAP Plastics and buy the sheet material and the hardening glue. More work, and if you buy the Carbon fiber sheet a little more expensive.
Over all still good work and clever DIY .
#13
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Re: DIY LIP (56k be warned) *Finished (The ZC)
not 100% should but i red in another post b4 and if u put a pole ( something straight ) accross the bottom then heat gunning it it should b straight
... LOOK HRD
... LOOK HRD
#15
Re: DIY LIP (56k be warned) *Finished (The ZC)
I have got to show love for some Home Depot engineering. It only costs bought $30 per lip and I could care less if it gets fucked up. If it does I will replace it. I need to find a new way to run brake ducts though. I am thinking about using some fibreglass mesh and customizing something.Good Job on the lip it looks clean. Next time buy some garden edging and turn it upside down thats what I used. It has a hard lip on the bottom to prevent tearing it up.
#17
Re: DIY LIP (The ZC)
I am def going to make out of fibre glass mesh just need a couple days off on the weekend to do so. I will def take a long time to engineer. Might make a prototype from casting material from work soon. The only prob is my car is so damn low from my kw v3 coilovers.
#19
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Re: DIY LIP (Rob.)
cool man! not only do you install your own body work but you create it too! i think an easy fix to having those screws disappear would be a black sharpie or something. not trying to pic your project apart, but i think thatd make it look even nicer.
nice DIYer!
nice DIYer!
#23
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Re: DIY LIP (eh6)
am i the only one who thinks that all this DIY craze is getting a bit rediculous? i mean you are putting base trim for your house on your car! not only is it completely non funtional, it doesnt even look that great and is flimsy as hell.
im gonna make my lip out of paper. but you know what itll be cool cause i did it myself
im gonna make my lip out of paper. but you know what itll be cool cause i did it myself
#24
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Re: DIY LIP (GSRCRXsi)
Trust me if you get it low enough and stiff enough it will create downforce. even if it just a placebo effect(which i highly doubt it is physics doesnt lie) it will still make you more confident.