VTECAcuraGSR

So next on my growing list of things to do is the oil cooler. I currenlty do not have a temp guage, but I know GSR and ITR are not easy on oil. This along with loosing 5 psi by the end of a 30 min run suggests the oil is getting very hot and thin.

Here is the setup I am thinking about

- Perma Cool Spin on adaptor 116
- Run 10AN lines from there to a Canton/Mecca remote oil filter
- From there run to a Mocal 19 row 10 AN Oil Cooler
- Back to the block

Question 1. Where should I mount an oil temp sensor? Should it be before or after the cooler?

Question 2. I would think I should put an anti-drain valve somewhere on the return line so when the car has stopped all the oil doesn't drain back into the car. Is this true?

Question 3. What do I do with the stock oil cooler? Do I just place the Perma Cool spin on adaptor right on top of the crappy stock water oil cooler?

Question 4. I am assuming 10AN is a good size from previous posts I searched for. Is this true?

Question 5. Why is line and fittings so damn expensive? Jesus.... No wonder I need to be rich. I need to buy 6, $25 fittings!!

Question 6. This may sound obvious, but how do I change the oil out of the cooler?

Question 7. Am I missing anything?

Like always your help is very appreciated!!!!

Jeremy - who can't wait to get on the track soon!

JDMTYPER

I just installed a B&M Oil cooler and tracked my car with it a streets of willow today. It seems like a decent kit and it is only about $110.00. I am not sure if this would be cheaper then the setup you are proposing or not.

spoon_ek9

1. you should install oil temp gauage. before the cooler.
2. unless you plan to install the cooler higher that the spin on, or else i don't think you really need it.
3. since you plan to use the spin on already, you can just let it sits there.
4. it depend on how you are going to route the line. i suggest to use the shortest distance.(i would use -8 too)
5. just because.
6. you need to open one fitting on the cooler to let all the oil in the cooler out.
7. you might as well put oil press if you plan to install oil temp.

VTECAcuraGSR

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by spoon_ek9 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">1. you should install oil temp gauage. before the cooler.
2. unless you plan to install the cooler higher that the spin on, or else i don't think you really need it.
3. since you plan to use the spin on already, you can just let it sits there.
4. it depend on how you are going to route the line. i suggest to use the shortest distance.(i would use -8 too)
5. just because.
6. you need to open one fitting on the cooler to let all the oil in the cooler out.
7. you might as well put oil press if you plan to install oil temp.</TD></TR></TABLE>

1. Where before the cooler should I install the temp guage?
2. Even if the cooler isn't higher the lines definietly will be. Should that worry me?
3. Ok
6. That doesn't sound right.....
7. I already have a pressure guage, although its currently on the back of the block. Should i move it?

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JDMTYPER &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I just installed a B&M Oil cooler and tracked my car with it a streets of willow today. It seems like a decent kit and it is only about $110.00. I am not sure if this would be cheaper then the setup you are proposing or not.</TD></TR></TABLE>

In my opinion the B&M kit is crap and yes this will cost at least 3 times the B&M Setup. But thats using racing hose, etc...

VTECAcuraGSR

Any more comments? I am really interested in hearing your opinions!

Dr Pooface

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by VTECAcuraGSR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Question 1. Where should I mount an oil temp sensor? Should it be before or after the cooler? before the cooler

Question 2. I would think I should put an anti-drain valve somewhere on the return line so when the car has stopped all the oil doesn't drain back into the car. Is this true? not necessary imo. You'll only have about 1 quart or less extra oil with your setup, and much of it will stay in the lines and cooler.

Question 3. What do I do with the stock oil cooler? Do I just place the Perma Cool spin on adaptor right on top of the crappy stock water oil cooler? yes

Question 4. I am assuming 10AN is a good size from previous posts I searched for. Is this true? yes

Question 5. Why is line and fittings so damn expensive? Jesus.... No wonder I need to be rich. I need to buy 6, $25 fittings!! tell me about it.

Question 6. This may sound obvious, but how do I change the oil out of the cooler? you dont

Question 7. Am I missing anything? This may seem obvious, but make sure the cooler gets adaquate air flow. I've seen a 30 degree difference on my car just by moving the cooler to an area where air was forced through it.

Like always your help is very appreciated!!!!

Jeremy - who can't wait to get on the track soon!
</TD></TR></TABLE>

Track rat

A few observations and lessons learned from my past installations:

19 rows worked for my '95 teg LS (non-vtec) but wasn't big enough for my B18C5. 16 VTEC valve springs humming at 8,400 rpms generate a lot of heat. 25 rows keeps me in the low 220s with 95+ deg ambient.

To save some $, I used steel -10 AN fittings instead of alum. They weigh a little more but cost much less. Visit the local industrial hydraulic counter or "Parker" dealer.

I change my syn oil & filter every 2-3 race weekends, so I don't worry about the oil left in the cooler. My rat burns at least a quart every race weekend too, so the stuff doesn't stay in there long enough to rot .

Braided steel hose will saw through anything that touches it. Sleeve contact areas with pieces of rubber hose and zip-tie the oil lines to strategic points to the protect body, wiring and other hoses.

I replaced the oil drain plug with an elec temp sending unit. It is simple and tells you how hot the oil is as it is sucked into the pick up. Figure the temp at the bearings is +25 deg. The VDO part # for a 1.8 Honda was 323 055 when I bought 2 of them 8 years ago. 14mm x 1.5 300 deg.

Leaving the stock sandwich cooler in place will serve to help warm the before your morning session. It is a good idea to cover the grille in front of your new external cooler with racer tape during cool Spring/Fall track mornings. You don't want to run the motor hard with oil temps below 180ish.

Happy cooling

TeamSlowdotOrg

Another solution to running too cool during cool days is a thermostat with a bypass plumbed in before the cooler. Also helps you come up to operating temp. more quickly.

Track rat

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TeamSlowdotOrg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Another solution to running too cool during cool days is a thermostat with a bypass plumbed in before the cooler. Also helps you come up to operating temp. more quickly.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I tried that once on a street/track car and I personally wouldn't recommend it on a track car. It will be open 95% of the time and it adds (4) more fittings, (4) more potential leak points, and at least $100 more cost. A piece of cardboard or racer tape to cover the cooler is cheap and simple.

TeamSlowdotOrg

Right, but it's still another solution. And if you have one, you won't be working on putting tape over the cooler and have some dude in a #3 "The Intimidator" hat ask if you're trying to improve aero for qualifying, and if you think you need some more wedge in the right rear.

Track rat

Heh, Heh. I'd probably want that t'stat if I didn't live on the sunny south! Although a windy VIR in October can feel like Minnesota!