dc24me

Hope this pics help anyone attempting to build their own. This was my first attempt:

There is fiberglass in it, but I started with a 1" mdf base, used cross stiched fiberglass mat to get the contour of the box, built up the side with duraglass/resin/hardner (milkshake) and fiberglass mat chop mat embedded in it. The ring was cut on a router table (grille isn't made yet, I might just tweak a 12W6v2 grille) to make it fit) and the sub is recesses and with the grille, it will sit flush. I took a stack of mdf rings, attached it with backstrap to the box to get the angle i wanted and made a pull with fleece. the only way I was able to get the fleece to attach to the box was by stapling it to the mdf base and then did the pull. I built up the inside of the box with more milkshake and chop mat to build up the inside of the front baffle. It's supposed to be at least 3/4" thick all around and weights at least 50 lbs without the 10W6V2. the internal volume is about 1 cu.ft which is within jl's recommended sealed enclosure range. The box is probably overbuilt but I did not want the enclosure to be the weak link. I figured with 300wrms of clean power going to it, proper tuning and the corner loading effect the hatch, it will have plenty of output without eating up my trunk. I already gave up my spare for electronics.

I used kevlar body filler to shapen up the front and improve the contours of the box and match it to with the rest of the interior panels so it all flows. then I pulled it out of the car. sanded and grinded. put it back in. used more body filler. pulled it out and then sanded it again. I used regular bondo because it was a lot easier to sand the final layer. the I sprayed it with spray bondo and sanded it with higher grit sandpaper. I was going to vinyl it, but I deceided to just spray it with primer and sem texture coat and interior dye because I'm sick of working on it. It came out alright I think.

Eventually, I'll fix all that is wrong with it, but I've put in at least 100 hours into this box and I need to start working on other parts of the install. And as I mentioned before if I work in this box anymore, I'll start hating life.




Modified by dc24me at 12:25 AM 6/4/2004

rcurley55

looks nice! Thumbs up on your first project - by the way, now that you started on glass, you will never stop thinking about it...

fcm

hell of a job,looks good. If thats your 1st try, you can come and work for me any time

debogsr

nice job!

EFz6er

That looks real good but I'd run more than 300 watts to that beast!!!! Anyway the install/box is awesome!!!

b18bEG

muey bien, me gusta. i have been trying to think of a way to glass someing in a teg....

flip b18b

nice box good work man

dc24me

thanks for the up guys.

I'm not thinking about a fiberglass for a long long time because I started it in november. I finally found a way to mount the amps and processors and can't wait to get the car finished.

The 300 watts off my Xtant a-series class A/B monoblock will be fine with proper tuning it will sound since and it also hit WILL hit 130dB off music (otherwise I'll be pissed.)

PSU

iTrader: (2)

not bad at all, looks impressive

JoshuaVTEC

Yeah but how is the enclosure held into place?

dc24me

lag bolts through the floor of the car.

Goatsterrman

Very nicely done, and I would say 300 watts would be fine for you speaker, Fiberglass boxes are supposed to be 20% smaller than MDF enclosures, your box seems a little bit so I would think that you could get by with slightly less power than required, RMS for that speaker is 400 watts.

Again very clean

Sobe_Death

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Goatsterrman &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> Fiberglass boxes are supposed to be 20% smaller than MDF enclosures, your box seems a little bit so I would think that you could get by with slightly less power than required...
</TD></TR></TABLE>

what? you should always follow the proper recommended size, regardless of box material. im just hoping the 'glass will be rigid enough on the front of the box for that w7 application. the back looks plenty beefy. i know on the fiberglass box i built for an Eclipse aluminum 12" flexed too much even with 4 layers of glass. ended up building a new one reinforced with resin-soaked rope.

"Fresh Pizza Guy"

yeah i had 2 audiobahn ultra excursion 12's powered by a directed 1100d each, (2 1100d's, 2 12" subs) and they ended up putting stress cracks in my fiberglass box, and i had about 6-8 layers of material... but i was running real powerful amps and subs...

Goatsterrman

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Sobe_Death &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

what? you should always follow the proper recommended size, regardless of box material. im just hoping the 'glass will be rigid enough on the front of the box for that w7 application. the back looks plenty beefy. i know on the fiberglass box i built for an Eclipse aluminum 12" flexed too much even with 4 layers of glass. ended up building a new one reinforced with resin-soaked rope.</TD></TR></TABLE>

You should always follow the recommended size, but those measurements are based on a 3/4 MDF wood box size.

The speaker in the picture is a W6v2, 1/4 fiberglass on a curved surface is as strong as 3/4 MDF. Now if the fiberglass is completely flat it will likely get the stress cracks you were talking about.

rcurley55

alot of fiberglassing is getting the material laid down properly - many times, people fail to use a roller to remove air bubbles from between layers. Air bubbles weaking a panel significantly. And as it's been mentioned, curves are 'glass' best friend.

Sobe_Death

yeah, the box was pretty curvy, and it was the front where the sub was mounted and there wasnt a huge base of MDF providing the support like on the back. eclipse subs like to destroy sealed boxes that have any little construction flaw.

dc24me

The recommended sealed enclosure range for the enclosure is anywhere between 0.5 cu.ft to 1 cu.ft. according to jl audio. my enclosure is definitely on bigger side of the range. I didn't bother dealing with t/s parameters and enclosure design because they are based on less than a watt of input and don't take into account cabin gain and pressure loading. If it's in a sealed box, having a larger enclosure will simply lower the F3 point. Besides, got a lot of processing capability to tweak the F%$ out of it and make it the way I want it to sound. And if the box is too big, I could always dump more duraglass/fiberglass/resin/hardner on the inside to eat up space and make it even stronger. but I don't think I'll need to do that. besides, I'm still sick of working on this box.

I'm sticking with my 300 watt amp because the 300 watts falls on the higher end of minimum suggested power input required to get decent performance out of the W6v2. The difference between 300W and 400W to me is insignificant. And besides, my broke *** can't afford or find anything worthy of replacing my amps. (not anything new anyways) I like these amps because they have no onboard processing, which in my case if they did it would just be redundant and add unnecessary noise. In theory anyway.....

I love amps from back in the day when amp companies only made amps and most of the sick amps were built in AZ and all the car audio companies weren't in bed with each other like they are today.

So how does it sound? I have no idea, since I still need to put the amps in and build something to hold them.


Modified by dc24me at 11:28 PM 6/8/2004

JDMCRX

iTrader: (2)

Good tip Use seran wrap on the edges and pack bondo down that will give u tight ends

SOHC4life 96

ive been trying to come up with a way to put subs in my trunk, cause i need all the space i can get. and this is the perfect way to do it. thanx and great job. wanna do mine????

Fenianz

Post some pictures when your project is complete

EFz6er

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by puddz27 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">That looks real good but I'd run more than 300 watts to that beast!!!! Anyway the install/box is awesome!!!</TD></TR></TABLE>
Sorry thought you had a w7...300 watts to the w6 will be good

Bone Stock

how much did that whole setup cost you?

kartman

That looks really good.