Superhatch

Im in the opening stages of planning a C5 into a EH. I'm starting off by looking at a choice for engine mounts. Any advice or experience would be appreciated.

Mugen $370
Hasport $399
Honda $350

Thanks in advance.

-Jake

Turbogixxer

Love HASport mounts but cant go wrong with stock honda

do not have any experience with mugen

EGinNY

I had Acura oem(honda) mounts with energy suspension
mount inserts in my 92 integra, was able to tear up 2nd
and get a NICE chirp outta 3rd
for whatever thats worth

B18C5-EH2

I'm just curious as to why you'd even need to look for mounts and prices.

If you get the swap complete you can simply use a mixture of stock Civic mounts with Integra brackets as seen here - pic courtesy of Katman:



This is coming from someone (me) that has a B18C5 in an EH. I'm running the stock Integra timing side mount and bracket, the stock Civic topside tranny mount, the Integra rear mount bracket with Civic mount with an Energy sus busing in it, front lower mount brackets are Integra-spec with stock 1992-1995 Civic rubber mounts with Energy sus bushings in them. The Energy sus bushings are only like $35.00 and they keep engine movement to a minimum even if they add some vibration to the rest of the car.

Here's some more info you might find helpful:

B18C5 engine wiring into a 1992-1995 Civic:

IMO the USDM ITR swap is easier to swap in. I've done this swap 3 times already and it is 100% easy especially if you run a re-chipped P28 and even more so if you have a 1992 Civic or any 1992-1995 Si, VX, or EX with VTEC wires.

Here's what you'd need too do if you have a USDM ITR swap:

KEEP the ITR engine harness. Regardless of what others say the plugs all plug right in. This way you get to keep the newer ITR distributor and injectors, and there is no need to rewire anything. Again this is from experience, not hearsay.

Using the Integra engine harness allows you to keep the newer distributor without having to change pins, you keep the newer ITR injectors, and you keep the newer alternator without having to make any plug changes.

Need proof? Here's some pics of my own ****:









BTW: before anyone gives me **** about not having a VIN plate on my tranny, it's a brand new one from the Acura dealer. New trannies are not assigned a VIN because they were not sold in a car. My old ITR tranny has the VIN plate that matches the donor vehicle that I purchased in whole back in 2001.



Old pic with the too common red V.C:



You'll have a few extra plugs left over on the ITR harness because the ITR has a few extras that our Civics don't have, like ABS, etc. You vcan just hide the extra plugs.

Now there's a few different ways to get an ECU to work, and I'll list them from easiest to hardest:

1. Re-chipped P28. This will simply plug in. No need to wire up for a knock sensor because the P28 doesn't read for one. Better fuel, timing, VTEC x-over, and rev limiter = more power. OBD1 so no need at all to run any sort of extra sensors.

2. Kenji OBD2 jumper harness and JDM P73 ECU. I ran this on my motor for a while before the kenji ECU. You'll have to wire up a knock sensor wire and that's about it. Drawbacks are that this ECU has a 113-115 speed limiter and it doesn't make the power that the kenji-spec P28 does. ThisECU has OBD2 type plugs but IT RUNS AN OBD1 PROGRAM AND IT IS ONLY OBD2 IN PLUGS!!! I ran this ECU with no extra o2 sensor, no crank fluctuation bullshit, etc.

3. Jumper harness with USDM P73 ECU. Why? I wouldn't do this unless I was in Cali and it was necessary for smog bullshit. You'd have to wire up all the extra OBD2 bullshit and the ECU sucks compared to a re-chipped P28.

So that's for the USDM motors, but what about the JDM ITR swaps?

As Apexi-ITR has said the JDM harness can be used. It requires some stretching but it will work. If you must get the factory look then get any OBD2 type engine harness from any USDM B18C1 or B18C5 and then it will plug right in just like I said the USDM swap does.

As far as ECU stuff goes, really a P28 is the better choice again but you will need to add a VTEC oil pressure switch onto the JDM ITR motor because it doesn't have one and the P28 looks for one. Just pull an oil pressure switch from another VTEC motor - didn't you use a SOHC one Apexi-ITR?

Or you can run the jumper harness and O.E JDM P73 ECU. This will save you from having to add the oil pressure switch, but you'll have to add a knock sensor and this ECU still has the shitty speed limiter.

USDM ECU? But why?

That's about all I can think of right now. I run the kenji-spec P28 ECU in my 1992 CX hatchback and with this method and keeping the ITR engine harness I did not have to add one single wire at all! It was absolutely 100% plug and play!

Phil DeVtec

^^^you always come up w/ the most amazing posts. real informative!

B18C5-EH2

Bump for the morning crew.

Ricey McRicerton

And WTDR is down, so nobody even has to comment on the pictures not working right now.

iNfAmOuS_E46

damn noobs lol j/p pix dont work and i want to see them

WangChung

this is way OT, but b18c5-eh2, you are the ****** man! u know everything there is to know about hondas and we would prolly be lost without you on this site. i will now get off ur nuts.

Superhatch

EH2 I have seen most of your pics before. Thanks for the great write up. I wasn't sure what condition the mounts will be in when I get the car (looking for a black si specifically) so I was entertaining ideas of using an aftermarket mount set to replace the possible worn out mounts.

As far as USDM vs JDM. I am going to be ordering from HMO, and Im not sure about their availability of USDM C5's...Ill call them on Monday to see about it. It seems like the USDM is the way to go. I'm switching back from 4th gens (owned 7) to 5th gens (owned 2) mainly due to the ease of swaps, and the overall Legoness of the EH. After reading your advice I think I'll start looking into the USDM for sure. Thanks for the help!

-Jake

B18C5-EH2

I'm just sorry the pics are not working.

I'm going to try and upload all of my tech pics to an FTP site rather than We-Todd because We-Todd goes down a lot. I'm not slamming We-Todd at all though, because I understand just how daunting a task handling such a huge site must be.

Newman

Stock OEM Honda mounts are maybe $40 each..... don't know how you ended up with a $350 price tag. When I had my DA and swapped the motor (4 mounts), I picked up 4 new OEM mounts and the total price was around $130. And when the mounts are new, it's a helluva difference over the stock 10+ year old mounts, and not as stiff as a solid mount kit like ES bushings in there or an aftermarket kit like hasport. But get what you want and what you feel is best for your setup.

rodrez.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Superhatch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Im in the opening stages of planning a C5 into a EH. I'm starting off by looking at a choice for engine mounts. Any advice or experience would be appreciated.

Mugen $370
Hasport $399
Honda $350

Thanks in advance.

-Jake</TD></TR></TABLE>

I just swapped out the mounts on mine, for some HA Sport mounts. Mine were 10 years old, and worn out, and I got a deal on a set of slightly used HA Sports that I just couldn't pass up, it was just to good.
I've only put on about 100 miles, as I'm still cleaning up my engine bay, hiding a few things, and I haven't been driving it, but I'm loving them. Definately not for everyone, as they vibrate EVERYTHING. For a daily driver, I probably would not recommend them at all. I would go with inserts, and/or Jim Fab vibration mounts, which aren't as harsh. I love the feeling of the mounts when I get on the throttle, but again, they're extreme, as everything shakes.

The Internet Tough Guy

jimfab mounts are awesome. 100 bucks and your motor won't move. you won't spend 400 on hasports and have a complete rattle trap. if it's a complete race car i'd go w/ hasport, but jimfab's mounts or es inserts should do you justice otherwise.

teamsol

great write up

HATCHingMN

any website for jimfab??

rodrez.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by HATCHingMN &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">any website for jimfab??</TD></TR></TABLE>

http://www.jimfab.com/

JapJunkie

iTrader: (1)

Hasports are sexy *** bling bling motor mounts that do the job. Theyre great and theyre so strong they eliminate the front tranny mount.

Doeboy

i have new oem mounts with energy suspension poly inserts also. it improved my 1/4 time out of my sohc by .10 i love them

JDMH22HATCH

iTrader: (6)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by hOnDadiCt &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Hasports are sexy *** bling bling motor mounts that do the job. Theyre great and theyre so strong they eliminate the front tranny mount.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Another reason why i'm going with the Hasport mounts for my 4-door. My intercooler piping runs where my torque mount for the tranny would be so I can't run one. I've had great experience with Hasport and have been running them in my H22 hatch for years. Nothing but good stuff from me

Boosthead

Great info. I modded the harness from my EX on my JDM b18c swap. After reading your post, wish I had tried using the JDM harness. Even the EX harness is a stretch

Keji chipped p28 is the way to go. Takes 10 mins or less start to finish to swap it out