escape2me

Considerin' gettin' 1 and was in need of some input from some more experienced members...
1. how much all together did you pay??
2.reliable?
3.happy with it??
4.necessary mods attached?

AB16A2T

$2300+ Shipping. So far reliable as long you do the belt tension properely and follow all the installation instructions. I would be happier if I hadn't of jacked up the crank/alt idler pulley, besides that it is smooth and you can barely tell the vacuum to boost transition. I have a CAI, header and exhaust.

escape2me

Thanks, anyone else....

Br1t1shguy

they dont make much power, have a great powerband, are reliable, but once again dont make much power and have no room for expansion due to no possibility of intercooling and SCORCHING intake temps above 10psi that causes you to hit a wall of detonation. 10 SC psi doesnt equal 10 tubo PSI because the SC sucks alot more power due to its utilization of precious and sparse honda crank torque rather than abundant exhaust pressure and heat.

Great for auto X, otherwise everyone wishes they had went turbo.

its a 4 cylinder... torque isnt its fortay, SC's use crank torque... go figure

Joseph Davis

You can intercool a JRSC, been done a number of times now. There's one not an hour west of me.

I'll agree to not liking the Roots type blower much, it's not very efficient. People wonder why JRSC's have unsolvable detonation problems on tip in and intermittantly for no reason... well, intake charge temps from a Roots blower are higher than a non-IC turbo setup. Get a Vortech or whatnot if you must go SC, they are easier to IC and make much more power regardless of parasitic drag on the crankshaft.

crazy eyez killa

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by J. Davis &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Get a Vortech or whatnot if you must go SC, they are easier to IC and make much more power regardless of parasitic drag on the crankshaft.</TD></TR></TABLE>


Best advice yet

Mad Cow

LHTPerformance.net &lt;- Will intercooler your JRSC.

roadrunner

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 97 GSR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Considerin' gettin' 1 and was in need of some input from some more experienced members...
1. how much all together did you pay??
2.reliable?
3.happy with it??
4.necessary mods attached?</TD></TR></TABLE>

1. I paid $1300 for mine used with 15K miles on it.

2. On my 97 GSR, I put it on at 95K miles and am now at 175K miles. The only problem was a tensioner pulley that froze and took out a belt.

3. Pretty happy with it, 251Hp/181lb-ft at 10psi, and gets 29mpg overall.

4. Hondata, Quaife, LS tranny, and a few other goodies. The car is more of a GT/canyon carver than a quarter mile queen as I drive over 140 miles per day. BTW, the tip-in detonation is more often caused by sudden leaning because the boost is so quick. The Hondata was tuned to take this into account so it hardly ever does it now, and only on the hottest days. I have seen over 240 F intake but that was boosting for about a minute on an uphill section of highway. LHT intercooler will be coming soon to address that...

Email me if you have any other questions...

Joseph Davis

I'm a power junkie, but in the interest of fair and honest reporting, if your bias is cornering and not drag racing like the gentleman above, too much hp will hurt your handling. Especially when it is combined with an equal measure of torque, and comes on like a freight train. A JRSC might be more than you want, especially if you have a lighter Honda.

A standalone will tune JRSC detonation problems out a good bit, as roadrunner mentions, but unless you are self-inclined like the Uberdate crew is then that route gets pricey.

greekspeed

i was happy with mine for the purposed it surved.... awsome throttle response and and great for autox and street driving...

cost me 1400..
i had a tensioner pully freeze up on my as well once which a tthe same time tore up the blower belt... onyl problem i ever had with it, and cost about 40 bucks to fix..

HT Chaplain

JRSC is a good kit because it reliable, easy to understand, and you can install it yourself and you can get a good deal on a used one. Turbos can get complicated real quick if your not familiar with all the concepts.

keebler65

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by J. Davis &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">A standalone will tune JRSC detonation problems out a good bit, as roadrunner mentions, but unless you are self-inclined like the Uberdate crew is then that route gets pricey.</TD></TR></TABLE>

not exactly true....i as well as many others have ran the "hack" methods (personally the SMC+) and had zero problems with detonation.

1) 2600 shipped, sold fmu and fuel pump right away, so costed a total of 2450
2) extremely reliable. just check the belts when you change your oil and it wont give you any problems
3) definately. i've been running 6psi on my B16A and it is a lot of fun to drive. i'll be upgrading to 8-10 psi very soon and i hear its a blast
4) well the only necessary thing in my opinion is better fuel management from the stock kit. as i mentioned above, you could use the SMC+ or VAFC hack, otherwise your best bet would be hondata/uberdata if you have the money/knowledge.

dutchmikkel

well i love the jrsc give's me what i want, power and reliable so what more do you need?
oke its not a drag item but on the road its great ( we have a lot of curves in holland...lol), if you like too have a lot of wheel spin in this country then a turbo is the thing too have ( just too much rain )

escape2me

Cool, sounds good. Thanks everyone for the help...

escape2me

I hear a lot about detonation... It almost sounds like something that can't be prevented... what steps must I take for a reliable and clean setup... Also, the car is strictly street so what psi should I run??

keebler65

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 97 GSR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I hear a lot about detonation... It almost sounds like something that can't be prevented... what steps must I take for a reliable and clean setup... Also, the car is strictly street so what psi should I run?? </TD></TR></TABLE>

there's absolutely NO reason why it can't be prevented, provided you have a decent fuel setup AND provided that it is tuned properly. the key is retarding the timing enough and adding enough fuel. if you're not going to retard directly at the distributor, and you're not going to get a full blown EMS, then get yourself a boost timing controller. both jackson racing and MSD make a version of it.

escape2me

How much should I expect to pay all together for a reliable setup??

keebler65

depends on what your setup consists of.....i'm sure you've seen by now that you can pick up a used unit for around 1800 or so. otherwise a new one will range from 2400-2600.

since you said reliable, i will rule out the option of an FMU setup. your next option is the hack route. this includes larger injectors (450cc) which if you use DSM injectors, you can find a set for $100 or even less. then to control the larger injectors, an SMC or VAFC or equivalent will run you anywhere from $75 to $200 or so. then you can either retard your timing at the distributor, or get a boost timing controller as i mentioned. i've never used a VAFC...maybe someone can chime in on this: does the VAFC retard timing? anyways the last step would be tuning it. you can either buy a wideband sensor/monitor for $300 to $400, or you could dyno tune it for around $100 or $200. if you want to upgrade to a real EMS, then do a search for hondata and/or uberdata and check out your options as it is too much to explain here and since the info can be found elsewhere.

these are rough estimates but it should give you some idea what you're getting into.

gitwidit

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 97 GSR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">How much should I expect to pay all together for a reliable setup??</TD></TR></TABLE>
Cost depends on if you buy a new or used setup and your install plans. They are easy to install and a good learning experience if you are mechanically inclined. With tuned EMS detonation isn't a problem. I ran @10psi on the street and sprayed the fugg out of it at the track, 3 years later I quit trying to blow it up The only reason I'm going turbo is b/c of the limited HP potential with a SOHC non-intercooled JRSC off the bottle. Drag racing bug bit my ***

escape2me

Thanks again...

escape2me

I have also read about a warranty?? What does it cover exactly?? I don't need an intercooler unless I'm pushin past 10psi right?? Also I was considerin' gettin' an icebox for now... I won't have to take it out for the SC will I??

hadboosttroy

i think the warranty is void if you use the boost upgrade kit. comptech makes a jrsc specific ice box as well, so look into that.

InfamousGSR

5k is how much you will need for a COMPLETE setup which includes psi stepper pulley pushing out 250whp.
Clutch/flywheel/lsd/sc/hondata/injectors/full exhaust/intake and maybe cam gears.

There is secret money to spend to. Small things are needed when doing the process.

sharkcohen

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by MadCow &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">LHTPerformance.net &lt;- Will intercooler your JRSC.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Not if you own a Prelude.

escape2me

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by InfamousGSR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">5k is how much you will need for a COMPLETE setup which includes psi stepper pulley pushing out 250whp.
Clutch/flywheel/lsd/sc/hondata/injectors/full exhaust/intake and maybe cam gears.

There is secret money to spend to. Small things are needed when doing the process.</TD></TR></TABLE>
What?? New clutch?Flywheel? Why do you need these?