euro r manifold install.
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euro r manifold install and tips
tommorrow morning before work i am installing my euro r manifold. i have done all of the modifications to it that need to be done. thank you 2point6 for the pics and info. one modification that i had to do that was not in his write up because he used an ericks racing throttle body and i used a stock t-body is that i used a 99 oddessey T/B gasket. the stock t-body does not true up to the manifold so the oddessey gasket blocks off one of the holes that the stock gasket wont and the other port that slightly hangs over and will cause a huge vacum leak. it is a space about 1mm by 1mm. i used some jb weld to cover this space.
i would also like to thank Mark Perez (SE93). he is selling a kit for this that includes an egr valve block off plate, an egr port plate, an adapter plate for the stock iac valve and an adapter plate to mount the fuel rail using 96-00 civic dx fuel rail studs. this kit comes with all of the hardware needed. i did have to make a gasket for the iac mounting plate and for the egr port plate. this was easy though all i had to do was go to pep boys and by paper gasket material and cut it to spec.
another mod will be that you will have to lengthen the harness for the iac valve. i also retained the stock throttle cable bracket. to do this i mounted two 90 degree pieces to the holes and bolted the bracket to the ohter end. these also were very easy mods.
the worst part of the mod was having to port the port around the fuel injectors. i would not recommend this if you are not experienced with a dremel and some porting tools. i decided to try it using the hondata gasket as my guide and a spare fuel injector for test fitment. it came out very very good. looks like a pro did the work. i will be going to the dyno as soon as it is back up and running, and i will post the gains. if you are interested in the parts you can contact Mark Perez.
overall this is an easy modification with the help of the kit i purchased. like i said the only intimidating part is the porting process to the injector ports. this could probably be done for less than $100 by a professional. i hope some of this extra info will be helpful. and just remember i dont think the skunk 2 manifold will make more power than this one. it doesn't on an ITR. just my 2 cents though. but then again it should be just a bolt on procedure.
Modified by junbb1 at 3:10 AM 1/21/2004
Modified by junbb1 at 3:44 AM 1/21/2004
Modified by junbb1 at 4:05 AM 1/21/2004
i would also like to thank Mark Perez (SE93). he is selling a kit for this that includes an egr valve block off plate, an egr port plate, an adapter plate for the stock iac valve and an adapter plate to mount the fuel rail using 96-00 civic dx fuel rail studs. this kit comes with all of the hardware needed. i did have to make a gasket for the iac mounting plate and for the egr port plate. this was easy though all i had to do was go to pep boys and by paper gasket material and cut it to spec.
another mod will be that you will have to lengthen the harness for the iac valve. i also retained the stock throttle cable bracket. to do this i mounted two 90 degree pieces to the holes and bolted the bracket to the ohter end. these also were very easy mods.
the worst part of the mod was having to port the port around the fuel injectors. i would not recommend this if you are not experienced with a dremel and some porting tools. i decided to try it using the hondata gasket as my guide and a spare fuel injector for test fitment. it came out very very good. looks like a pro did the work. i will be going to the dyno as soon as it is back up and running, and i will post the gains. if you are interested in the parts you can contact Mark Perez.
overall this is an easy modification with the help of the kit i purchased. like i said the only intimidating part is the porting process to the injector ports. this could probably be done for less than $100 by a professional. i hope some of this extra info will be helpful. and just remember i dont think the skunk 2 manifold will make more power than this one. it doesn't on an ITR. just my 2 cents though. but then again it should be just a bolt on procedure.
Modified by junbb1 at 3:10 AM 1/21/2004
Modified by junbb1 at 3:44 AM 1/21/2004
Modified by junbb1 at 4:05 AM 1/21/2004
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Re: euro r manifold install and tips (junbb1)
Thanks for the info Let us know how the install goes for you. I have some questions for you if you don't mind:
-Did you use the stock H22 fuel rail?
-Did you also use the stock H22 injectors? Would the use of any other injectors allow you to be able to skip the porting around the injector ports?
-Did you use the stock H22 fuel rail?
-Did you also use the stock H22 injectors? Would the use of any other injectors allow you to be able to skip the porting around the injector ports?
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Re: euro r manifold install and tips (BolivianFuego)
well every thing went smooth sailing with the install. i also ended up not running any coolant lines to the iac valve and looped the lines. so far the idle isnt affected, and i dont expect it to be. i obviously have CEL 12 for the egr but it does not seem to be effcting performance. i will soon be running a p28 hondata so the light will soon be gone.
unfortunaly though my main dyno will not be open for a couple more months due to the damages it received from a fire. so any back to back numbers will not be availible for some time. although i will be tuning the hondata i will be able to post some results for the hondata against the JUN ecu.
i would also like to add that the grinding to the top flanges (as 2point6 mentioned) probably do not have to be ground as much as i or he did. i did not test fit the manifold first i just removed the same amount of material as he did. very little has to be removed and maybe only on one flange.
the parrts that i purchased from Mark Perez (SE93) work absolutly perfect. they are really nice pieces and help the install be more of a bolt on affair. i would highly recommend these parts to anyone who plans to do this install to save them the hassle of dealing and measuring with a machine shop.
well as far as power difference i hate to speculate without actual dyno results. the car does rev smoother though and also sounds a bit different. i really feel more response at the lower rpm also. up top feels good but i am not one to guess gains.
unfortunaly though my main dyno will not be open for a couple more months due to the damages it received from a fire. so any back to back numbers will not be availible for some time. although i will be tuning the hondata i will be able to post some results for the hondata against the JUN ecu.
i would also like to add that the grinding to the top flanges (as 2point6 mentioned) probably do not have to be ground as much as i or he did. i did not test fit the manifold first i just removed the same amount of material as he did. very little has to be removed and maybe only on one flange.
the parrts that i purchased from Mark Perez (SE93) work absolutly perfect. they are really nice pieces and help the install be more of a bolt on affair. i would highly recommend these parts to anyone who plans to do this install to save them the hassle of dealing and measuring with a machine shop.
well as far as power difference i hate to speculate without actual dyno results. the car does rev smoother though and also sounds a bit different. i really feel more response at the lower rpm also. up top feels good but i am not one to guess gains.
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Re: euro r manifold install and tips (fastwanabe)
well i did not take any pics because the post 2point6 made was very detailed and informative. but as far as sitting in the car it looks a lot cleaner than the bulky stock manifold.
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Re: (Cottonwoodz)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Cottonwoodz »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">How much was the kit?</TD></TR></TABLE>
he said $125 shipped. you can get the manifold from http://www.jdmhondaparts.com for $299. i think it is a pretty good alltogether price.
he said $125 shipped. you can get the manifold from http://www.jdmhondaparts.com for $299. i think it is a pretty good alltogether price.
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Re: (junbb1)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by junbb1 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
he said $125 shipped. you can get the manifold from http://www.jdmhondaparts.com for $299. i think it is a pretty good alltogether price.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Whoa..prices went up...it used to be like $215US!
he said $125 shipped. you can get the manifold from http://www.jdmhondaparts.com for $299. i think it is a pretty good alltogether price.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Whoa..prices went up...it used to be like $215US!
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Re: euro r manifold install and tips (satan_srv)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by satan_srv »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Nice, if I wasn't going with ITBs I probably would have done this.</TD></TR></TABLE>
im jealous.
im jealous.
#13
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Re: euro r manifold install and tips (junbb1)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by junbb1 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
im jealous. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Wait till you see. I'm gonna have some real tuning this time too
im jealous. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Wait till you see. I'm gonna have some real tuning this time too
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Re: euro r manifold install and tips (junbb1)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by junbb1 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
the worst part of the mod was having to port the port around the fuel injectors. i would not recommend this if you are not experienced with a dremel and some porting tools. i decided to try it using the hondata gasket as my guide and a spare fuel injector for test fitment. it came out very very good. looks like a pro did the work. i will be going to the dyno as soon as it is back up and running, and i will post the gains. if you are interested in the parts you can contact Mark Perez.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
im just curious as to why you have to port and what exactly you have to port
the worst part of the mod was having to port the port around the fuel injectors. i would not recommend this if you are not experienced with a dremel and some porting tools. i decided to try it using the hondata gasket as my guide and a spare fuel injector for test fitment. it came out very very good. looks like a pro did the work. i will be going to the dyno as soon as it is back up and running, and i will post the gains. if you are interested in the parts you can contact Mark Perez.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
im just curious as to why you have to port and what exactly you have to port
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Re: euro r manifold install and tips (irev210)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by irev210 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
im just curious as to why you have to port and what exactly you have to port</TD></TR></TABLE>
you have to port around the fuel injectors. the R manifold runners at the flange do not have an arch that comes up around the pintle of the injector. the stock R injectors have a much longer pintle and therefor reaches the end of the flange without a disrupted spray pattern. well the stock h22 injectors has a very short pintle. if you were to leave this area alone without porting the fuel spray pattern would completely be disrupted and cause a drip instead of a spray into the combustion chamber.
look at this thread and you can see from the first couple of pictures how the flange is stock and has a very small arch around where the injectors go. look down several pictures and you can see how you have to port this area out for the stock injector. the pictures dont do justice in real life. the amount of material removed is quite a bit. using the stock I/M gasket as a templet is necessary. hope this helps.
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=352800
im just curious as to why you have to port and what exactly you have to port</TD></TR></TABLE>
you have to port around the fuel injectors. the R manifold runners at the flange do not have an arch that comes up around the pintle of the injector. the stock R injectors have a much longer pintle and therefor reaches the end of the flange without a disrupted spray pattern. well the stock h22 injectors has a very short pintle. if you were to leave this area alone without porting the fuel spray pattern would completely be disrupted and cause a drip instead of a spray into the combustion chamber.
look at this thread and you can see from the first couple of pictures how the flange is stock and has a very small arch around where the injectors go. look down several pictures and you can see how you have to port this area out for the stock injector. the pictures dont do justice in real life. the amount of material removed is quite a bit. using the stock I/M gasket as a templet is necessary. hope this helps.
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=352800
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Re: euro r manifold install and tips (irev210)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by irev210 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
So these euro R injectors are longer then other injectors?
</TD></TR></TABLE>
yes, very much so. thanks for the pic. i have yet to see an R injector until now
So these euro R injectors are longer then other injectors?
</TD></TR></TABLE>
yes, very much so. thanks for the pic. i have yet to see an R injector until now
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Re: euro r manifold install and tips (junbb1)
we are gunna send them to RC to see what they flow, get them cleaned and put them back in the R.
when we find out what they flow at, ill post up the #'s
Right now we put obd1 injectors in without modifying them and they work fine, I guess we should see even better results with euro R injectors
when we find out what they flow at, ill post up the #'s
Right now we put obd1 injectors in without modifying them and they work fine, I guess we should see even better results with euro R injectors
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Re: euro r manifold install and tips (irev210)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by irev210 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">we are gunna send them to RC to see what they flow, get them cleaned and put them back in the R.
when we find out what they flow at, ill post up the #'s
Right now we put obd1 injectors in without modifying them and they work fine, I guess we should see even better results with euro R injectors</TD></TR></TABLE>
thats cool. i would recommend getting the computer programmed for the flow rate though before you put them back in. also the 4th gen are peak and hold and the 5th gen are saturated. the 5th gens are designed to run at higher fuel pressure and the 4th gens runa at lower pressure. i am not sure if the euro r are P&H or saturated.
when we find out what they flow at, ill post up the #'s
Right now we put obd1 injectors in without modifying them and they work fine, I guess we should see even better results with euro R injectors</TD></TR></TABLE>
thats cool. i would recommend getting the computer programmed for the flow rate though before you put them back in. also the 4th gen are peak and hold and the 5th gen are saturated. the 5th gens are designed to run at higher fuel pressure and the 4th gens runa at lower pressure. i am not sure if the euro r are P&H or saturated.
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Re: euro r manifold install and tips (junbb1)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by junbb1 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> thank you 2point6 for the pics and info. </TD></TR></TABLE>
No problem... glad I could help.
No problem... glad I could help.
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Re: euro r manifold install and tips (2point6)
Im just curious why more people dont put integra type R thottle bodies on their Euro manafolds, thats what the Euro R comes with from the factory (just without an idle screw)
Modified by irev210 at 4:34 PM 3/7/2004
Modified by irev210 at 4:34 PM 3/7/2004
#24
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Re: euro r manifold install and tips (irev210)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by irev210 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Im just curious why more people dont put integra type R intake manafolds on their Euro manafolds, thats what the Euro R comes with from the factory (just without an idle screw)</TD></TR></TABLE>
what? an ITR manifold does not fit on an h22a...a Euro-R does...
what? an ITR manifold does not fit on an h22a...a Euro-R does...
#25
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Re: euro r manifold install and tips (irev210)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by irev210 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Im just curious why more people dont put integra type R intake manafolds on their Euro manafolds, thats what the Euro R comes with from the factory (just without an idle screw)</TD></TR></TABLE>
i am guessing that you are referring to an ITR throttle body. well i didn't because i did not want to pay for it when i could use my prelude one
i am guessing that you are referring to an ITR throttle body. well i didn't because i did not want to pay for it when i could use my prelude one