T-RO

First off this IS NOT MY great idea. I found out about it by searching on this site. lol

My $0.10 instructions:
First off you will need a Resistor box that still has the connector on it (about 6-8" from the box itself)

1)Find that "dead end" connector that has the injector wires in it
2)Check for continuity and find out which yellow/black wires are your injectors
3)Pull out the Injector wires from that "Dead End" connector (I found it easier to pop out that white cover inside the "Dead End" connector before pulling out the wires. That way you can see what is actually holding the wire ends in)
4)Insert these Yellow/Black injector wires into the Resistor Box connector (make sure they match the black wires on the other side of the Res box connector)
5)Add a tip on the remaining wire FROM the Resistor Box Connector and stick it in the "Dead End" connector (doesnt matter which hole you use)

Here are a few pics to help you out:



This is the wire I mentioned in #5 you have to make. it goes FROM the resistor box TO the dead end connector.

Thanks to those that helped me out on the project.

Modified by T-RO at 4:08 PM 7/12/2004


Modified by T-RO at 9:28 PM 5/13/2008


Modified by T-RO at 9:29 PM 5/13/2008


Modified by T-RO at 9:30 PM 5/13/2008


Modified by T-RO at 9:31 PM 5/13/2008


Modified by T-RO at 9:32 PM 5/13/2008

ladysman

I personally think you can't get any cleaner than this.





To me, this is how it would have been done from the factory.

Also, you can't just unplug this setup and use saturated injectors. (At least that I can see). So to me, a plug is pointless and adds clutter. (To me it looks as though the old plug wasn't removed.

But then again, I am bias.

One problem is most of the time, the harness plug on the box is cut off. I personally have never seen one with one on it. Not saying you can't go to a junkyard and get it with the plug. Anyway, good fine. I have never seen this before. For someone with zero to little solder skills, this would be the way to go. Us solder professionals need not worry.

Derek14

Lady's install owns Joo

T-RO

Ladysman, your instructions were the ones I printed for the job as a matter of fact. You did a great job and posted a great "how-to". I really didnt want to solder though if i didnt have to. I personally liked the other way better.

To each his own though. As long as it works.

P.S. Both of the resistor boxes I have left for sale still have the connector on them though.

Snail Tuning

haha u used my picture.

can;t seem to get rid of that rust. i still haven't used that plug for my resistor box yet. i juet sodered in resistors in the wires running to the injectors. 5 bucks and about 20 mins of time. no problems yet.

if i could do it over again. id use a resistor box, but if it aint broke why fix it.

T-RO

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by bmcc72 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">haha u used my picture.

can;t seem to get rid of that rust. i still haven't used that plug for my resistor box yet. i juet sodered in resistors in the wires running to the injectors. 5 bucks and about 20 mins of time. no problems yet.

if i could do it over again. id use a resistor box, but if it aint broke why fix it.

</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yes, that pic showed exactly what I needed and since it was for the knowledge of our fellow HTers I knew you wouldnt mind. lol

Ahh another benefit of living in Fl, dont get THAT much rust in the car.

MiraiZ

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ladysman &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I personally think you can't get any cleaner than this.

</TD></TR></TABLE>

I think I've got you beat on resistor box install cleanliness
I spent a lot of time using existing wiring and duct to hide the wires going to the resistor box mounted on th firewall. If I didn't point it out, you wouldn't know it was there

Sorry for the big pics:




You can see that I used the stock wiring ducts next to the fuel rail to route the injector wires away from the injectors...looks totally stock



here you can see the barely visiby resistor box on the firewall mounted next to the battery (right side)there is one thin duct leading the wires away from the resitor box.

DaX

iTrader: (1)

My clean resistor box install:

Mr. Vapor

Hey, T-Ro....check out questions, could really use your help:


Ok, my resistor box came with the end of the harness...it was uncut. SO i made 5 wires, one end with a female clip and the other with a male clip. i put the male end of the wires i made into the "dead end" connector (after checking for continuity of course) the female end of these wires went into the harness of resistor box. Does this sound ok? i soldered all connections and the clips grip firmly. never have to cut or splice any wires.


Finally, the red wire from the resistor box...you say i can plug it into any open spot on the "dead end" is this still true? just want to make sure im doing it right.


edit: Im an OBD2 car...i made 5 wires like the one that you made and used those....ok yea..hope that helps

mrbsponge

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by MiraiZ &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">


I think I've got you beat on resistor box install cleanliness
I spent a lot of time using existing wiring and duct to hide the wires going to the resistor box mounted on th firewall. If I didn't point it out, you wouldn't know it was there

Sorry for the big pics:




You can see that I used the stock wiring ducts next to the fuel rail to route the injector wires away from the injectors...looks totally stock



here you can see the barely visiby resistor box on the firewall mounted next to the battery (right side)there is one thin duct leading the wires away from the resitor box.</TD></TR></TABLE>


**** to be honest i really dont see no damn resistor box, i think you are playing a trick on me!!!! hahah nice one, must be a good install, seriously i dont see it, unless you arent using some kind of factory box.


so thumbs up to you.


also killer cause its RHD!

BigMoneyP

it's that silver twinkie box next to the battery. I got one like that too.

T-RO

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Mr. Vapor &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Hey, T-Ro....check out questions, could really use your help:


Ok, my resistor box came with the end of the harness...it was uncut. SO i made 5 wires, one end with a female clip and the other with a male clip. i put the male end of the wires i made into the "dead end" connector (after checking for continuity of course) the female end of these wires went into the harness of resistor box. Does this sound ok? i soldered all connections and the clips grip firmly. never have to cut or splice any wires.


Finally, the red wire from the resistor box...you say i can plug it into any open spot on the "dead end" is this still true? just want to make sure im doing it right.


edit: Im an OBD2 car...i made 5 wires like the one that you made and used those....ok yea..hope that helps</TD></TR></TABLE>


What did you do with the injector wires you pulled out of the dead end connector?
Pull out injector wires and feed those into the resistor box connector.
Then use 1 of the wires you made and go from the resistor box connector into the dead end connector.

So actually only 1 wire should be going from the resistor box into the dead end connector.

Mr. Vapor

I didnt pull the injector wires out of hte "dead end" harness. I simply found out which pin on the harness went to the injector wires by checking for continuity. once i had located all four injector pins i made four wires, with a spade/female end that plugged into the dead end harness pins where the injector wires are. the other end of these wires i made have a male end which clip onto my resistor box harness.

this should work the same as pulling the wires out of the harness....i just skipped doing that and left all in tact. do you forsee this being a problem? i dont.

also, with the red wire, you say just plug it in anywhere in the harness....i can plug it into any open pin?

093turbo16

iTrader: (2)

you can plug it in anywhere that gets the right voltage at the right time. I am not sure why you wouldn't want to repin that harness, it is much easier to do.

But your way will work, but I think that the dead end plug should just stay intact.

Mr. Vapor

Ok,

here lets try and explain this with pictures!

Ok pictured below is the "dead end" harness. Now, ive checked for continuity and ive found the four pins in the connector that coincide with my four injectors. my wires have a female end on them (ive pulled one out so you can see it). You can see i did not cut or splice any wires.



The next picture shows the OTHER end of the wires i made. this end has a male fitting and will go into the resistor box connector that is also pictured in my hand. the red wire will then go back into the 'dead end' connector in any open hole as the original instructions state.




does anyone see this as a problem? checked for continuity this way: Put the female end of the plug into the connector, then put one end of the testor on the injector wire up by my injector clips, and the other end at male fitting and got positive tone on the volt-meter.

2point2

mines in teh cabin.. doesn't get any cleaner than that.

AzntaggeR

so the last remaining wire from the resistor box can just be put into any of the remaining pins on the "dead end" connector?

rioninja

In case you guys didnt know,
The early accords and preludes had resistor boxes with OBD1 plugs already on
them. You simply remove the connector block plug, and plug it in. I have a few of
em sitting here. Oem box, with oem plug. Doesnt get any better than that.

T-RO

yes plug the wire FROM the res box into any spot on the dead end connector.

I didnt know any resistor boxes would direct fit. The dead end connector has 8 plugs in it (8 wires) and every res box i remember seeing only has 6 in it. I just doubled checked my "stash" and they all have 6 also...

rioninja

I have one or two that are direct fit.

Another thing you can do: There are about two or three spots on obd1 cars where
you can get a plug that will fit the "block" connector. You can easily scavenge these
from the junkyard. Most of them dont have all the pins, but you can get pins from
just about any of the other engine harness plugs.

RACEPAK

SWEET.....!

Thanx.

turbohf

FYI: an OBD1 distributor main plug will clip right into the "dead end" plug....




what do i do with the extra two wires???

Turbogixxer

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by turbohf &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">what do i do with the extra two wires???</TD></TR></TABLE>

Those two wires are 12v. You need to connect them to the one wire coming out of the resister box. That butt connector works like a big connector. It connectors all the 7 wires together so they all get 12v.

turbohf

so both are 12v....why do both need to be connected then? why not just one?...wait... there are 4 injector wires and 3 extras, one is suppost to be for the red one on the resistor box, then the other two are extra...or is it late and im really confused?

Turbogixxer

It is easy. You have to connect all the wires together besides the 4 injector wires. So, the red resistor box wire and the 3 (or 2 depending on the car) wires together. If you do not, you may have a problem starting the car and/or key sesnors (that need 12v source) will not work.