help on installing a fuel cut-off switch
12-29-2003, 07:25 PM
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help on installing a fuel cut-off switch
ok, i know how to do everything on this. but the problem i'm having is which is the LOAD and POWER. this is the article that i went by... http://www.courtlukens.com/cutoff_switch.htm There are 2 connectors on the switch. will it make a difference on how i connect the power and load wires?
12-29-2003, 07:34 PM
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Re: help on installing a fuel cut-off switch (b00st)
Probably not. Switches do one thing: they connect two disconnected wire together to get an electric current going. Basically, when you press the switch, a metallic lever goes down and conducts electricity from the "power" wire to the "load" wire, completing the circuit. 'Course, if it has more than two connectors, you'd have to be careful not to ground the power wire 
Looks like a weekend proejct for me, thanks for the link
Looks like a weekend proejct for me, thanks for the link
12-29-2003, 07:41 PM
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Re: help on installing a fuel cut-off switch (Unit 01)
o ok, that's what i thought...looks like i'll be able to finish this project tomorrow after all and for all you people who haven't done this, i recommend you do it 
and for all you people who haven't done this, i recommend you do it
12-29-2003, 08:06 PM
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Re: help on installing a fuel cut-off switch (b00st)
thanks so much for the link. i was planning on going to a shop to do this but it looks like a job i can do with the help of my friend. hopefully this will prevent my new car from being stolen.
12-29-2003, 08:31 PM
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Re: help on installing a fuel cut-off switch (b00st)
i'm doing the same thing right now, except with a relay.
that is the proper way to do it..
Modified by jwn7 at 1:14 AM 12/30/2003
that is the proper way to do it..
Modified by jwn7 at 1:14 AM 12/30/2003
12-29-2003, 08:32 PM
#6
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just had mine done, shouldn't take longer than an hour and i agree with b00st, i recommend it to everybody, it keeps you at ease at night knowing your car is not going to get jacked unless it's towed, HIDE IT WELL!
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12-29-2003, 10:10 PM
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Re: (b00st)
yes there is two... haha i don't really understand it either.. but it will work. just make sure you follow that exactly. relays are necessary becuase of the high current the fuel pump draws, and high current=potiental for spark=fire+gasoline=
12-29-2003, 10:18 PM
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Re: (jwn7)
alright i'm starting to figure this out.
http://www.partsexpress.com/resources/relays.html is a good start.
http://www.the12volt.com/relays/relays.asp
http://www.the12volt.com/relays/page2.asp
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=573277
http://www.partsexpress.com/resources/relays.html is a good start.
http://www.the12volt.com/relays/relays.asp
http://www.the12volt.com/relays/page2.asp
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=573277
12-29-2003, 10:50 PM
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Re: (jwn7)
ok i figured it out. 
it's pretty simple.
i'll try to explain how this actually works. the relay on the left disables the fuel pump, and the relay on the right disables the ignition.
start from the cut you'll make at the fuel pump and work your way backwards. in order to get a voltage to the fuel pump, we need to bridge the gap between 87 and 30 on the left relay. a relay connects these two terminals when the coil between 86 and 85 is energized, so when we get a voltage across 86 and 85, the relay will switch on - resulting in the fuel pump being activated. the diode is there to prevent spark, and reduce the voltage spike given to the relay.
now how do we get a voltage across 86 and 85 to energize the coil? 86 is the ground, so it must come from 85. follow it back to the relay on the right. it's connected to 87, so we need to energize this relays coil to bridge this gap - just like before. you can see now that terminal 30 on this one goes to the ignition, and terminal 30 on the other one goes to the fuel pump. now follow terminal 85 up: it goes to the + ignition, but is broken by the open switch. close the switch and a voltage will travel down to 85, energizing the coil and bridging the gap between 87 and 30. this in turn will do the same for the other relay. so pushing the switch will enable the ignition and the fuel pump. ta da!
it's basically the same as this, instead it kills the fuel pump instead of the starter.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">This is a stand alone starter kill. It does not rely on an alarm or keyless entry for it to work, only a simple momentary contact switch (normally open) to deactivate it. Every time the ignition is turned off, continuity is broken on the starter feed wire. To disable (or start), turn ignition on, then press the hidden switch, then start as normal.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
this seems like a roundabout way to install a simple switch, but it is proper and necessary. also, it allows expandibility later - you'll be able to add more switches and more layers of protection easily.
it's pretty simple. i'll try to explain how this actually works. the relay on the left disables the fuel pump, and the relay on the right disables the ignition.
start from the cut you'll make at the fuel pump and work your way backwards. in order to get a voltage to the fuel pump, we need to bridge the gap between 87 and 30 on the left relay. a relay connects these two terminals when the coil between 86 and 85 is energized, so when we get a voltage across 86 and 85, the relay will switch on - resulting in the fuel pump being activated. the diode is there to prevent spark, and reduce the voltage spike given to the relay.
now how do we get a voltage across 86 and 85 to energize the coil? 86 is the ground, so it must come from 85. follow it back to the relay on the right. it's connected to 87, so we need to energize this relays coil to bridge this gap - just like before. you can see now that terminal 30 on this one goes to the ignition, and terminal 30 on the other one goes to the fuel pump. now follow terminal 85 up: it goes to the + ignition, but is broken by the open switch. close the switch and a voltage will travel down to 85, energizing the coil and bridging the gap between 87 and 30. this in turn will do the same for the other relay. so pushing the switch will enable the ignition and the fuel pump. ta da!
it's basically the same as this, instead it kills the fuel pump instead of the starter.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">This is a stand alone starter kill. It does not rely on an alarm or keyless entry for it to work, only a simple momentary contact switch (normally open) to deactivate it. Every time the ignition is turned off, continuity is broken on the starter feed wire. To disable (or start), turn ignition on, then press the hidden switch, then start as normal.
</TD></TR></TABLE>this seems like a roundabout way to install a simple switch, but it is proper and necessary. also, it allows expandibility later - you'll be able to add more switches and more layers of protection easily.
12-30-2003, 12:48 AM
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Re: (Gump)
The only problem with the write up in that link is that he says "I kept blowing fuses to I changed it from a 15amp to a 25amp"... This is not smart at all. The wire on that circuit is designed to carry no more then 15amps. Hence the fuse rating. Raising the rating by 10amps is a big jump and can lead to electrical system damage and possibly fires. I would strongly recommend that no one here change thier fuses like this guy recommends. There should be no reason why the switch would cause an increase in current draw. If it does, toss the switch. Its bad.
12-30-2003, 11:13 AM
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Re: (b00st)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by b00st »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">if the fuel pump fuse is only 15amp, then isn't it ok for me to use a 10A or 15A switch then??</TD></TR></TABLE>
You should not use a switch with a lower rating then the fuse for the circuit. You would need to use at least a 15amp switch.
You should not use a switch with a lower rating then the fuse for the circuit. You would need to use at least a 15amp switch.
12-30-2003, 11:30 AM
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Re: (b00st)
yes it is ok but your fuel pump will not be getting the sufficient current needed to work properly. Its ok to use it as a temporary solution but it does need the 15 amp fuse
ps dont go at full throttle, go slow untill you get the proper fuse
ps dont go at full throttle, go slow untill you get the proper fuse
12-30-2003, 11:33 AM
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Re: (Hybrid93Eg)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Hybrid93Eg »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
You should not use a switch with a lower rating then the fuse for the circuit. You would need to use at least a 15amp switch.</TD></TR></TABLE>
that is not true, its like an amplifier in your car, lets say it requires 30 amps, but you only have a 20 amp fuse up front, it will work fine just as long as you dont push it real hard! the amp dosent pull 30 amps consistantly just like the fuel pump.
You should not use a switch with a lower rating then the fuse for the circuit. You would need to use at least a 15amp switch.</TD></TR></TABLE>
that is not true, its like an amplifier in your car, lets say it requires 30 amps, but you only have a 20 amp fuse up front, it will work fine just as long as you dont push it real hard! the amp dosent pull 30 amps consistantly just like the fuel pump.
12-30-2003, 11:36 AM
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Re: (B18RCoupe)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B18RCoupe »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
that is not true, its like an amplifier in your car, lets say it requires 30 amps, but you only have a 20 amp fuse up front, it will work fine just as long as you dont push it real hard! the amp dosent pull 30 amps consistantly just like the fuel pump.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Wrong! I don't know where you learned electronics but let me explain something to you. If you replace a FUSE with a lower rating, then yes, that is fine. It will not hurt anything. HOWEVER, if you put a switch in the circuit that cannot handle the current it will FRY the switch, cause a short, and even lead to a fire. Does that sound "ok" to you? It doesn't sound ok to me. You have to remember that a fuse and a switch are two different things. A fuse is a circuit protection device, a swith is not.
that is not true, its like an amplifier in your car, lets say it requires 30 amps, but you only have a 20 amp fuse up front, it will work fine just as long as you dont push it real hard! the amp dosent pull 30 amps consistantly just like the fuel pump.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Wrong! I don't know where you learned electronics but let me explain something to you. If you replace a FUSE with a lower rating, then yes, that is fine. It will not hurt anything. HOWEVER, if you put a switch in the circuit that cannot handle the current it will FRY the switch, cause a short, and even lead to a fire. Does that sound "ok" to you? It doesn't sound ok to me. You have to remember that a fuse and a switch are two different things. A fuse is a circuit protection device, a swith is not.
12-30-2003, 11:38 AM
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Re: (Gump)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Gump »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">these wiring diagrams confuse the hell outta me, I would just cut the wire and connect a switch to it</TD></TR></TABLE>
no **** right, thats what I did and it works fine. this is just another h-t way to over complicate a simple thing.
no **** right, thats what I did and it works fine. this is just another h-t way to over complicate a simple thing.
12-30-2003, 11:38 AM
#21
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Re: (B18RCoupe)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B18RCoupe »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">yes it is ok but your fuel pump will not be getting the sufficient current needed to work properly. Its ok to use it as a temporary solution but it does need the 15 amp fuse
ps dont go at full throttle, go slow untill you get the proper fuse</TD></TR></TABLE>
Man. This is funny. You do know that fuel pump is running at "Full volume" at all the time. It doesn't "crank up" when you ask for more fuel. Ever wonder what a fuel pressure regulator does? Thats what controls the amount of fuel you get under full throttle or partial throttle. The fuse rating has nothing to do with this. And again, he is asking about a switch, not a fuse.
ps dont go at full throttle, go slow untill you get the proper fuse</TD></TR></TABLE>
Man. This is funny. You do know that fuel pump is running at "Full volume" at all the time. It doesn't "crank up" when you ask for more fuel. Ever wonder what a fuel pressure regulator does? Thats what controls the amount of fuel you get under full throttle or partial throttle. The fuse rating has nothing to do with this. And again, he is asking about a switch, not a fuse.
12-30-2003, 11:58 AM
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Re: (Grimm)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Grimm »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
no **** right, thats what I did and it works fine. this is just another h-t way to over complicate a simple thing. </TD></TR></TABLE>
see thats where you're wrong. this really isn't a simple thing. how do you think honda would install this? der lets just put one dem switches in der. no.
do it right or don't do it.
no **** right, thats what I did and it works fine. this is just another h-t way to over complicate a simple thing. </TD></TR></TABLE>
see thats where you're wrong. this really isn't a simple thing. how do you think honda would install this? der lets just put one dem switches in der. no.
do it right or don't do it.
12-30-2003, 12:22 PM
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Re: (jwn7)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jwn7 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
see thats where you're wrong. this really isn't a simple thing. how do you think honda would install this? der lets just put one dem switches in der. no.
do it right or don't do it.</TD></TR></TABLE>
can you explain why a simple switch will not work for a fuel cut off? and why any of the relay BS posted above works better?
see thats where you're wrong. this really isn't a simple thing. how do you think honda would install this? der lets just put one dem switches in der. no.
do it right or don't do it.</TD></TR></TABLE>
can you explain why a simple switch will not work for a fuel cut off? and why any of the relay BS posted above works better?
12-30-2003, 12:51 PM
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Re: (Grimm)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Grimm »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
can you explain why a simple switch will not work for a fuel cut off? and why any of the relay BS posted above works better?</TD></TR></TABLE>
The relay assures that the fuel pump gets the power it needs. Switches aren't as dependable as one would hope and they tend to melt. It will work with a switch but isn't necessarily the correct way. Most people won't have a problem with just a switch but those who do will wish they would have used a relay. There is a simple way to use a relay and a switch and make it work safely. I can't describe it but there is a way. Once you understand how relays work and what they can do for you it will all make sense.
can you explain why a simple switch will not work for a fuel cut off? and why any of the relay BS posted above works better?</TD></TR></TABLE>
The relay assures that the fuel pump gets the power it needs. Switches aren't as dependable as one would hope and they tend to melt. It will work with a switch but isn't necessarily the correct way. Most people won't have a problem with just a switch but those who do will wish they would have used a relay. There is a simple way to use a relay and a switch and make it work safely. I can't describe it but there is a way. Once you understand how relays work and what they can do for you it will all make sense.