How To: Dash Removal 99-00 EK........ well almost
10-01-2003, 05:28 PM
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How To: Dash Removal 99-00 EK........ well almost
I've been having someproblems with my ej6. One of the heater wires on my O2 sensor plugs is getting too much voltage. I was told that either the wire needs to be replaced or I need a new ecu. I was also told that I needed to remove my dash in order to get to these wires to replace them. I decided to remove the dash on my own to save on labor charges for replacing the wiring from the ecu to the o2 sensor. I know **** about wiring. Anyway, I've come across a few dash questions on H-T and decided that I would include my camera in my tool bag so I could document what I do.
First thing I reccommend that you get, well worth the money
I would also reccommend reading the section on dash removal and the SRS system before undertaking this project. Learn it, memorize it, put it into action.
First thing I did was remove all the necessary interior pieces.
Rear console
Front console
Instrument Panel
Lower Cover (underneath steering wheel)
glove box
dash lower cover (with accessory socket)
remove both, driver's side & passenger side vents as well as defogger trims
Side covers
Passenger side lower cover
all are relatively simple to remove. phillips head screwdriver and light tugs and pulls at the clip areas. glove box requires a socket wrench, but it's still easy.
i moved all the interior pieces to the trunk to keep them out of my way, and of course, off the ground. do you really need a pic of this?? sorry 56k
Any excuse to show my si cluster
after you remove the center dash lower cover, try to remove as many screws from the radio area, and climate control area as possible. i'm trying to remember how i did it a while ago. didn't have to do it this time, since i never put the screws back in the first time. I constantly swap out my cd player.
pulled out my cd player, disconnected the wires and aux.
yank and tugged at the climate control and disconnect wires.
ended up with this, yes this is a lot of wires
*****help******
I had to go pick up my friend after this step. No signals, or interior lights. here's why........ turn signals DO NOT work with the hazard lights plugged in, simply remove the two screws holding in place and plug back in the light switch instead of the entire climate control.
no turn signals in rush hour ATL traffic = i blended right in
no interior lights?? same deal, remove the brightness controller on the driver's side vent, little piece with the light bulb on it and plug it in. or just leave it in. it only takes a second to remove it.
back to the dash...................................
I came into a problem with getting the center bolt out of the dash. it's right in the center of the dash, in the back of course, right near the windshield. Remove the lid with a screwdriver and do this.
1/2" breaker bar
3/8" converter & a 12mm deep socket, just to make it even longer
In action with extra long breaker bar
This was all I could think of. The window is so close, I doubt anyone can get a ratchet in there. In EGs, i think you could reach it through the climate control, but I can't really remeber. Anyway, this worked well, and like i said, I couldn't get any of my ratchets or wrenches to fit with that damn window being so close.
*********************Pay close attention to this**********************
In the middle of trying to take that bolt off, becoming frustarated and realizing that the bolt would take a while to come off, I disconnected the negative terminal from the battery. In order to disconnect the SRS system, you need to have the power disconnected for at least three minutes.
There's an access panel underneath the steering wheel. use a screwdriver to pry it off and disconnect these.
You'll have to push the plug in, on the bottom, while pulling the other end out. Not hard to do, once you figure it out.
Next disconnect the SRS airbag for the passenger side. Helms threw me off with the whole passenger side talk. This plug is located behind the panel where the accessory socket is, in the center of the dash.
Same deal here, push in, while pulling the other end out.
Now disconnect the main SRS plug. Follow the steering column from the driver's side SRS plug and you'll find it right underneath where the dash begins.
Next thing you need to do is remove these damn wires.
Fuse box (two bolts holding it in) if you have an alarm with as many wires as I have, this is the ultimate biaatch. There are also a lot of wires that are in the back of the fuse box which is hard as hell to get to, or maybe it's just my car.
Antenna lead, big black think "wire-looking" on left side of the fuse box
Data Link Connector, between attenna lead and fuse box.
More connectors, one on the upper right side of the driver's side area, connected to a grey box with a blue outline. sorry for some reason I stopped taking pics, but only momentarily.
There's a connector in the center dash area, as well as the far right side of the dash on the passenger's side.
Lower the steering wheel.
Remove the knee bolster, two bolts, one on each side of the steering wheel.
You CAN just lower it with the tilt, but its a lot easier to just remove two bolts and let it drop, I mean, place it down gently.
Now it's time for the bolts
I've already told you about the center dash bolt by the window.
There are a few more.
Two on the driver's side.
shitty pic
Here's a reference point for you.
Pic of the second bolt. The first bolt pictured is right next to this one, closer to the pedals.
Okay. I'm out of pics. At this point I had more than enough space to distinguish which wires I needed to work with.
There are two more bolts on the right side of the dash that needed to be removed.
Also two bolts on the bottom of the center console, they're on the metal brackets. At this point, you should be able to remove your dash, or at least lift it off the base. You may need to remove the actual dash from the brackets. That requires removing about 30 misc screws, nuts and bolts <--- mostly screws. It's not that hard to do, but it does take a lot of time searching for the screws.
I'm sure I forgot a few things, but I'll add them as I remember them. Any questions??
First thing I reccommend that you get, well worth the money
I would also reccommend reading the section on dash removal and the SRS system before undertaking this project. Learn it, memorize it, put it into action.
First thing I did was remove all the necessary interior pieces.
Rear console
Front console
Instrument Panel
Lower Cover (underneath steering wheel)
glove box
dash lower cover (with accessory socket)
remove both, driver's side & passenger side vents as well as defogger trims
Side covers
Passenger side lower cover
all are relatively simple to remove. phillips head screwdriver and light tugs and pulls at the clip areas. glove box requires a socket wrench, but it's still easy.
i moved all the interior pieces to the trunk to keep them out of my way, and of course, off the ground. do you really need a pic of this?? sorry 56k
Any excuse to show my si cluster
after you remove the center dash lower cover, try to remove as many screws from the radio area, and climate control area as possible. i'm trying to remember how i did it a while ago. didn't have to do it this time, since i never put the screws back in the first time. I constantly swap out my cd player.
pulled out my cd player, disconnected the wires and aux.
yank and tugged at the climate control and disconnect wires.
ended up with this, yes this is a lot of wires
*****help******
I had to go pick up my friend after this step. No signals, or interior lights. here's why........ turn signals DO NOT work with the hazard lights plugged in, simply remove the two screws holding in place and plug back in the light switch instead of the entire climate control.
no turn signals in rush hour ATL traffic = i blended right in
no interior lights?? same deal, remove the brightness controller on the driver's side vent, little piece with the light bulb on it and plug it in. or just leave it in. it only takes a second to remove it.
back to the dash...................................
I came into a problem with getting the center bolt out of the dash. it's right in the center of the dash, in the back of course, right near the windshield. Remove the lid with a screwdriver and do this.
1/2" breaker bar
3/8" converter & a 12mm deep socket, just to make it even longer
In action with extra long breaker bar
This was all I could think of. The window is so close, I doubt anyone can get a ratchet in there. In EGs, i think you could reach it through the climate control, but I can't really remeber. Anyway, this worked well, and like i said, I couldn't get any of my ratchets or wrenches to fit with that damn window being so close.
*********************Pay close attention to this**********************
In the middle of trying to take that bolt off, becoming frustarated and realizing that the bolt would take a while to come off, I disconnected the negative terminal from the battery. In order to disconnect the SRS system, you need to have the power disconnected for at least three minutes.
There's an access panel underneath the steering wheel. use a screwdriver to pry it off and disconnect these.
You'll have to push the plug in, on the bottom, while pulling the other end out. Not hard to do, once you figure it out.
Next disconnect the SRS airbag for the passenger side. Helms threw me off with the whole passenger side talk. This plug is located behind the panel where the accessory socket is, in the center of the dash.
Same deal here, push in, while pulling the other end out.
Now disconnect the main SRS plug. Follow the steering column from the driver's side SRS plug and you'll find it right underneath where the dash begins.
Next thing you need to do is remove these damn wires.
Fuse box (two bolts holding it in) if you have an alarm with as many wires as I have, this is the ultimate biaatch. There are also a lot of wires that are in the back of the fuse box which is hard as hell to get to, or maybe it's just my car.
Antenna lead, big black think "wire-looking" on left side of the fuse box
Data Link Connector, between attenna lead and fuse box.
More connectors, one on the upper right side of the driver's side area, connected to a grey box with a blue outline. sorry for some reason I stopped taking pics, but only momentarily.
There's a connector in the center dash area, as well as the far right side of the dash on the passenger's side.
Lower the steering wheel.
Remove the knee bolster, two bolts, one on each side of the steering wheel.
You CAN just lower it with the tilt, but its a lot easier to just remove two bolts and let it drop, I mean, place it down gently.
Now it's time for the bolts
I've already told you about the center dash bolt by the window.
There are a few more.
Two on the driver's side.
shitty pic Here's a reference point for you.
Pic of the second bolt. The first bolt pictured is right next to this one, closer to the pedals.
Okay. I'm out of pics. At this point I had more than enough space to distinguish which wires I needed to work with.
There are two more bolts on the right side of the dash that needed to be removed.
Also two bolts on the bottom of the center console, they're on the metal brackets. At this point, you should be able to remove your dash, or at least lift it off the base. You may need to remove the actual dash from the brackets. That requires removing about 30 misc screws, nuts and bolts <--- mostly screws. It's not that hard to do, but it does take a lot of time searching for the screws.
I'm sure I forgot a few things, but I'll add them as I remember them. Any questions??
10-01-2003, 06:30 PM
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Re: How To: Dash Removal 99-00 EK........ well almost (B2FiNiTY)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B2FiNiTY »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Nice writeup 
</TD></TR></TABLE>
</TD></TR></TABLE>
10-02-2003, 10:04 AM
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Re: How To: Dash Removal 99-00 EK........ well almost (Jswpstdoff)
props to a well thought out plan of attack, with the proper tools (namely the manual). you're a kind and unselfish individual for taking the time to post your story, complete with pics. many people, in time, will benefit from your labor.
that being said - which 02 sensor are you dealing with? if it's the secondary, hate to burst your bubble, but you didn't need to do all that. i'll wait for your response before i go into why.
i think maybe you should have swapped ecu's with someone before attempting this undertaking.
the reason i am getting involved is because i have the same car and have had a CEL for secondary 02 sensor heater for about a year. so far, i have replaced the 02 sensor with both a new aftermarket one and a known working honda one, which didn't fix the problem. i replaced the last two sections of wire harness before the sensor, and that didn't fix it. for me now, it's either the last section of wire harness that goes directly to the ecu, the plug itself (customized for my swap) or the ecu.
as we speak, i am printing out the necessary pages from the helms manual that i just received recently, and together i think we can solve both our problems. please go into more detail about your condition - what CEL's, who told you about the whole voltage thing, etc.
that being said - which 02 sensor are you dealing with? if it's the secondary, hate to burst your bubble, but you didn't need to do all that. i'll wait for your response before i go into why.
i think maybe you should have swapped ecu's with someone before attempting this undertaking.
the reason i am getting involved is because i have the same car and have had a CEL for secondary 02 sensor heater for about a year. so far, i have replaced the 02 sensor with both a new aftermarket one and a known working honda one, which didn't fix the problem. i replaced the last two sections of wire harness before the sensor, and that didn't fix it. for me now, it's either the last section of wire harness that goes directly to the ecu, the plug itself (customized for my swap) or the ecu.
as we speak, i am printing out the necessary pages from the helms manual that i just received recently, and together i think we can solve both our problems. please go into more detail about your condition - what CEL's, who told you about the whole voltage thing, etc.
10-02-2003, 11:03 AM
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Re: How To: Dash Removal 99-00 EK........ well almost (ruthless013)
I started some of this. POut i put it all back in All the metal I took out I primed. Kinda pointless but I hate surface rust even if you cant see it. nice writeup
10-02-2003, 11:07 AM
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Re: How To: Dash Removal 99-00 EK........ well almost (B2FiNiTY)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B2FiNiTY »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Nice writeup </TD></TR></TABLE>
</TD></TR></TABLE>
10-02-2003, 12:29 PM
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Re: How To: Dash Removal 99-00 EK........ well almost (ruthless013)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ruthless013 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">props to a well thought out plan of attack, with the proper tools (namely the manual). you're a kind and unselfish individual for taking the time to post your story, complete with pics. many people, in time, will benefit from your labor.
that being said - which 02 sensor are you dealing with? if it's the secondary, hate to burst your bubble, but you didn't need to do all that. i'll wait for your response before i go into why.
i think maybe you should have swapped ecu's with someone before attempting this undertaking.
the reason i am getting involved is because i have the same car and have had a CEL for secondary 02 sensor heater for about a year. so far, i have replaced the 02 sensor with both a new aftermarket one and a known working honda one, which didn't fix the problem. i replaced the last two sections of wire harness before the sensor, and that didn't fix it. for me now, it's either the last section of wire harness that goes directly to the ecu, the plug itself (customized for my swap) or the ecu.
as we speak, i am printing out the necessary pages from the helms manual that i just received recently, and together i think we can solve both our problems. please go into more detail about your condition - what CEL's, who told you about the whole voltage thing, etc.</TD></TR></TABLE>
we definitely need to team up. I have a "bad" plug. Heater wires are getting 14 volts, and they're supposed to be getting around 12. I was also told that the wires from the harness to the sensor need to be changed. I'm not sure which sensor they put the bad plug on, but when I get a diagnostic I can just replace the wires to the plug. If the plug is on the Primary, then (from what I've researched) I will repin and run wires from the C16, and C1 pin outs of the ecu. Or if it's plugged into the secondary o2 sensor, I'll run wire from the plug to the A23 and A8 pin outs of the ecu. I currently have an 99 ej6, auto to manual swap completed back in July. A mechanic told me the wire might be fu**ked up because I cut some of the auto tranny sensors from the harness after the swap. I only did it so they wouldn't be smacking up against my radiator fan. Anyway, that's all I've got for now. I've been throwing a cel for about a month now, and I don't see it getting any better until i take care of this problem. Both sensors are about 2-3 weeks old, brand new OEM Honda sensors ($$$).
My O2 sensor woes
Any help or suggestions you can offer, would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks for all the
I didn't really think I needed to remove the dash. I did it because I was misinformed that if I needed to change the wiring removing the dash is what I would have to do. I have to apologize for not having more pics. I do this everytime I start something. I'll start taking pictures in the beginning then I put the camera down and focus on working and completely forget about it. The most funny thing about this was, after I removed the glove box, I could see where the wiring goes from the inside of the vehicle to the engine bay.
edit: I can't check cels on my ecu. I believe it's b/c of the extra auto sensor plugs that are not plugged into my manual ecu. Auto have 4 plug sockets, manuals have 3. When the auto ecu was in, i easily checked for the auto tranny sensor cels. Maybe if I swapped my manual ecu with the auto ecu I could find out if I still throw the o2 sensor codes...... hmmm..............
that being said - which 02 sensor are you dealing with? if it's the secondary, hate to burst your bubble, but you didn't need to do all that. i'll wait for your response before i go into why.
i think maybe you should have swapped ecu's with someone before attempting this undertaking.
the reason i am getting involved is because i have the same car and have had a CEL for secondary 02 sensor heater for about a year. so far, i have replaced the 02 sensor with both a new aftermarket one and a known working honda one, which didn't fix the problem. i replaced the last two sections of wire harness before the sensor, and that didn't fix it. for me now, it's either the last section of wire harness that goes directly to the ecu, the plug itself (customized for my swap) or the ecu.
as we speak, i am printing out the necessary pages from the helms manual that i just received recently, and together i think we can solve both our problems. please go into more detail about your condition - what CEL's, who told you about the whole voltage thing, etc.</TD></TR></TABLE>
we definitely need to team up. I have a "bad" plug. Heater wires are getting 14 volts, and they're supposed to be getting around 12. I was also told that the wires from the harness to the sensor need to be changed. I'm not sure which sensor they put the bad plug on, but when I get a diagnostic I can just replace the wires to the plug. If the plug is on the Primary, then (from what I've researched) I will repin and run wires from the C16, and C1 pin outs of the ecu. Or if it's plugged into the secondary o2 sensor, I'll run wire from the plug to the A23 and A8 pin outs of the ecu. I currently have an 99 ej6, auto to manual swap completed back in July. A mechanic told me the wire might be fu**ked up because I cut some of the auto tranny sensors from the harness after the swap. I only did it so they wouldn't be smacking up against my radiator fan. Anyway, that's all I've got for now. I've been throwing a cel for about a month now, and I don't see it getting any better until i take care of this problem. Both sensors are about 2-3 weeks old, brand new OEM Honda sensors ($$$).
My O2 sensor woes
Any help or suggestions you can offer, would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks for all the
I didn't really think I needed to remove the dash. I did it because I was misinformed that if I needed to change the wiring removing the dash is what I would have to do. I have to apologize for not having more pics. I do this everytime I start something. I'll start taking pictures in the beginning then I put the camera down and focus on working and completely forget about it. The most funny thing about this was, after I removed the glove box, I could see where the wiring goes from the inside of the vehicle to the engine bay.
edit: I can't check cels on my ecu. I believe it's b/c of the extra auto sensor plugs that are not plugged into my manual ecu. Auto have 4 plug sockets, manuals have 3. When the auto ecu was in, i easily checked for the auto tranny sensor cels. Maybe if I swapped my manual ecu with the auto ecu I could find out if I still throw the o2 sensor codes...... hmmm..............
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10-05-2003, 08:17 PM
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Re: How To: Dash Removal 99-00 EK........ well almost (B2FiNiTY)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B2FiNiTY »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Nice writeup </TD></TR></TABLE>
Dash swaps are fun...did mine a while back with the help of Rodrez
</TD></TR></TABLE> Dash swaps are fun...did mine a while back with the help of Rodrez
10-05-2003, 09:51 PM
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Re: How To: Dash Removal 99-00 EK........ well almost (opi)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by opi »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Dash swaps are fun...did mine a while back with the help of Rodrez </TD></TR></TABLE>
He answered my steering column question as well
</TD></TR></TABLE>He answered my steering column question as well
10-06-2003, 01:09 AM
#12
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hey, I have an eg,
and might need to swap the dash lateron, but even though I dont really need this now,
thanks a bunch for a writeup.
ppl like you make life WAY easier for the rest of us
and might need to swap the dash lateron, but even though I dont really need this now,
thanks a bunch for a writeup.
ppl like you make life WAY easier for the rest of us
10-10-2003, 11:01 PM
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Re: How To: Dash Removal 99-00 EK........ well almost (Jswpstdoff)
daaang jonathan...good to see you tearing that honda apart. 
now that's how you learn . great book too. i read those things like books.
now that's how you learn . great book too. i read those things like books.
06-09-2014, 04:16 AM
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Re: How To: Dash Removal 99-00 EK........ well almost
Hey, i bought myself a ek4 from 96, a few weeks ago.
So i am new on this site.
Anyways i am trying to remove my dashboard and there seems to be 1 screw on the passenger side i can't remove before the hole thing comes off. ( things like climate control,air boxes under need, etc are taken away).
Im trying to get some information with pic but, i can't see the pics?
Is it because I'm new?
So i am new on this site.
Anyways i am trying to remove my dashboard and there seems to be 1 screw on the passenger side i can't remove before the hole thing comes off. ( things like climate control,air boxes under need, etc are taken away).
Im trying to get some information with pic but, i can't see the pics?
Is it because I'm new?
06-09-2014, 09:54 AM
#19
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Re: How To: Dash Removal 99-00 EK........ well almost
look at the cruise control install threads. I posted pics of the dash removal process in one of them. I think it's the thread by Deschlong (i'm too lazy to look it up right not)
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