brokeHonda

I have put several sessions in at the local autocross events in my Teg. Have decided to start running my EG for the rest of the season. It is my project car so I want to be cmfortable with the handling before I add horsepower.
Anyways, my setup: ITR rear swaybar, gsr 5-spokes with 205/50 azenis, cheapo matrix springs(came with the car) and front/rear strut bars. Oh yeah, 70 pissed off gerbils under the hood!

Obviously I am leaning away from the understeer. Would adding a stock Si front swaybar have a major impact(hindrance) or will it be beneficial?

Any suggestions or comments?

brokeHonda

Should have done the search first but this is what I have to expand on.

Due to my cheap springs with lower spring rates I may be better off not running the front swaybar in the smaller parking lot cone killing I do. It was mentioned that not running the front swaybar at low speeds with low spring rates allows better acceleration out of corners. Front inside tire isn't trying to lift off the ground allowing extended contact time/area.

Anything else I am missing?

brokeHonda

No comments?
I know seat time will only tell the truth about the setup, but it's good to hear what other truly experienced autocrosser's have to say.

Solracer

I am going to assume you have no sway bar on the front know correcT? If you do leave the stock one, a bigger sway bar on the front will make the car push more, if you are not running a sway bar at all in the front some people like to run with out them and do say that you do get better grip coming out of corners and such, however you are giving up transitinal response IMHO (i.e saloms) I used to run a bigger sway bar on the front of my Del Sol, but since I addess stiffer springs and am driving more on road course's know I went back to the stock bar.

brokeHonda

Alright.
You are correct in assuming I am not running a bar now. You have made a good point about transitioning. Good times come from smooth driving at the limit; correct? So if i was to run a swaybar, a smaller 14-18mm bar would be beneficial?
Along with springs with a higher spring rate!

Eee Pee

I use 500fr/ no bar, 400rr/ 22mm bar
20x9.5x13 fr, 20x8x13rr Hoosier slicks.
I usually set the front rebound full soft, rear rebound full firm.
I don't have a LSD yet. (Hence no bar).
I like this set up alot. Very easy to drive.
Though all 110 horsepower can still spin the inside tire.
The car weighs about 1725 pounds. (MUST loose more weight, dang glass)

When I get the LSD, it may be a different set up.

brokeHonda

That seems to be a popular spring rate setup from what I've read. My only question about your setup is why you have the front rebound set soft?

solo-x

what am i running this week.....lets see.....oh yeah, i have big bars on both ends of the car now. i tried running with no swaybars, but the car responded too slowly. it was wicked fast, but it didn't respond fast enough for how fast it could go. next week will probably be something different yet again, but at least now my changes do what is expected of them.

nate-suspension travel is goot! very goot!

Eee Pee

An attempt to keep the inside wheel on the ground.
And from trying other settings, this seems to work.

solo-x

depending on the course i'll vary my front shock settings. ie: a tight, bumpy course i go full soft on the front shocks. a fast smooth course i go pretty high with rebound damping to get the car to transition faster. between springs, shocks, swaybars, tyre pressures, and alignment, a lot of things have to be tested by you to see what works.

nate

Eee Pee

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by solo-x &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i tried running with no swaybars, but the car responded too slowly. it was wicked fast</TD></TR></TABLE>

...it was wicked fast. *important*

I use a big rear bar and the rear comes right around. And I trailbrake to the apex. Corner exit traction is pretty good, if not great. I find transitional changes to be good. I think it's more important to have the inside tire down on the ground than have a super quick transitional speed.

Also, I have a staggered tire set up. The front is 1 1/2 inches wider than the back. With tires the same width all around the car would definately not be the same. It would most likely push. Stiffer rear springs would help, but then the balance of the car wouldn't be the same. It's easy to go fast as it is now.

chad

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B12boost &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I have put several sessions in at the local autocross events in my Teg. Have decided to start running my EG for the rest of the season. It is my project car so I want to be cmfortable with the handling before I add horsepower.
Anyways, my setup: ITR rear swaybar, gsr 5-spokes with 205/50 azenis, cheapo matrix springs(came with the car) and front/rear strut bars. Oh yeah, 70 pissed off gerbils under the hood!

Obviously I am leaning away from the understeer. Would adding a stock Si front swaybar have a major impact(hindrance) or will it be beneficial?

Any suggestions or comments?</TD></TR></TABLE>


try it and find out....no one can really tell you how your car is gonna handle...you are going to have to have trial and error....because what is fast for me maybe slow for you! if you want to be a good driver try try try everything!!! if you don't you may be missing out on something!

brokeHonda

thanks for all the ideas. Like I said before, it will come do to seat time and making adjustments to my setup that fit my driving style.
What I have so far is:
Get some real springs!(~500F, ~400R)
Look at the course and set shocks according to conditions
Toying with the idea of a smaller front swaybar

Practice, adjustment, Practice, adjustment.

Thanks for the help!