How To: Wreck an H23VTEC
03-12-2003, 09:36 PM
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How To: Wreck an H23VTEC
Ahhh judgement day....I love the smell of napalm in the morning 
So we cracked the engine open
Looks good right? WRONG!
Look at that crack on the crankshaft counterweight!!! :eek:
Oh let's turn the crank a little!
Dammmmmn!!
So yeah the crank is cracked all the way through...it's like 2 pieces. Interesting to note that the crack is not near any of the knife-edged parts.
But wait! There's more! Did anyone notice the main cap? :eek:
Let me make this more obvious
Look at the bearings, completely melted/spun/messed/FUBAR
So yeah...that's pretty much it. It wasn't an oil issue at all. the crank broke and it ran for a while....then eventually the cap messed and jumped the t-belt.
So here's the analysis:
-Darton Sleeves look fine, Arias pistons look fine (from block side)
-Minimum bent valves in #2
-#2 main cap is busted
-crank is busted
--The main journals are in rough shape, block is basically junk unless we can majorly bore it out. which brings me to my options
I now have two options:
Option A - save block, F20B
In the interests of trying to save the block, we are going to take it to the machine shop and see if it can be saved. The only way this works is with the F20B crank. Since it's 55mm mains vs. the blocks 50mm we have some room to work with. I have 98 main caps I bought so we can bore out the others that are still good and replace the busted one. Bore it to match the F20B crank and we're off to the races. I found out the 55mm main caps are the same height as the 50mm caps, so they can be bored out for f20B with no issues.
However....if the block can't be saved...
Option B - toss block, H22a
Throw the block out. Buh bye darton sleeves. Sell the Arias pistons. Start fresh with a bare H22A block. Buy wiseco pistons, talk to endyn, put them in a stock FRM sleeve and try it out. Put in H22a crank/crower rods. Or just use type-s pistons and build another block next winter.
Aghhhh I'm so tired. Input an condolences are welcomed
Actually I should say I had a good laugh when my engine builder said he had never seen anything like that in his 20+ years of building race engines
Full size pics are here http://www.imagestation.com/album/?id=4290532631
[Modified by satan_srv, 1:45 AM 3/13/2003]
So we cracked the engine open
Looks good right? WRONG!
Look at that crack on the crankshaft counterweight!!! :eek:
Oh let's turn the crank a little!
Dammmmmn!!
So yeah the crank is cracked all the way through...it's like 2 pieces. Interesting to note that the crack is not near any of the knife-edged parts.
But wait! There's more! Did anyone notice the main cap? :eek:
Let me make this more obvious
Look at the bearings, completely melted/spun/messed/FUBAR
So yeah...that's pretty much it. It wasn't an oil issue at all. the crank broke and it ran for a while....then eventually the cap messed and jumped the t-belt.
So here's the analysis:
-Darton Sleeves look fine, Arias pistons look fine (from block side)
-Minimum bent valves in #2
-#2 main cap is busted
-crank is busted
--The main journals are in rough shape, block is basically junk unless we can majorly bore it out. which brings me to my options
I now have two options:
Option A - save block, F20B
In the interests of trying to save the block, we are going to take it to the machine shop and see if it can be saved. The only way this works is with the F20B crank. Since it's 55mm mains vs. the blocks 50mm we have some room to work with. I have 98 main caps I bought so we can bore out the others that are still good and replace the busted one. Bore it to match the F20B crank and we're off to the races. I found out the 55mm main caps are the same height as the 50mm caps, so they can be bored out for f20B with no issues.
However....if the block can't be saved...
Option B - toss block, H22a
Throw the block out. Buh bye darton sleeves. Sell the Arias pistons. Start fresh with a bare H22A block. Buy wiseco pistons, talk to endyn, put them in a stock FRM sleeve and try it out. Put in H22a crank/crower rods. Or just use type-s pistons and build another block next winter.
Aghhhh I'm so tired. Input an condolences are welcomed
Actually I should say I had a good laugh when my engine builder said he had never seen anything like that in his 20+ years of building race enginesFull size pics are here http://www.imagestation.com/album/?id=4290532631
[Modified by satan_srv, 1:45 AM 3/13/2003]
03-12-2003, 09:46 PM
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Re: How To: Wreck an H23VTEC (satan_srv)
That sucks man, i know you have worked hard from all your posts on here and PO.....good luck in the futire, I would go with your 2nd option personally....cheaper yet experimental too. You'd be a first with those wiesco pistons.....
03-13-2003, 01:38 AM
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Re: How To: Wreck an H23VTEC (NXLude)
I've been running the Wiseco Slip Skirt pistons for 12,000 miles now. got them from iB. i did a leakdown and compression check at 10k miles with zero losses. all we did was rehone the frm liners. compression was 205-210 across the board, with leakdown less than 5%.
examination with a fibrescope has revealed no abnormal frm wear. unfortunately our fibrescope has no way of adapting it to a camera.
[Modified by drift, 5:39 AM 3/13/2003]
examination with a fibrescope has revealed no abnormal frm wear. unfortunately our fibrescope has no way of adapting it to a camera.
[Modified by drift, 5:39 AM 3/13/2003]
03-13-2003, 06:29 AM
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Re: How To: Wreck an H23VTEC (Jason kiDD)
IMO, It does look like this started from an oiling issue. The problem looks like it had been there for quite some time and the crank broke due to heat fatigue. The bearing could have been too tight to start with or the 2 pieces "spun" and stuck together.
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03-13-2003, 07:17 AM
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Re: How To: Wreck an H23VTEC (EX-Boosted97Lude)
DIBS ON BUSTED CRANK!!!!!!!! as retarded as it sounds, i seem to have accuired a collection of FUBAR cranks
03-13-2003, 07:46 AM
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Re: How To: Wreck an H23VTEC (KMS Luder)
ok, I'm still curious as to what the hell you did....
Currently I am at: spun main bearing, excessive heat...cracked main cap and crank?
03-13-2003, 08:11 AM
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Re: How To: Wreck an H23VTEC (Sushi X [TCL])
we had fuel cut at 8500rpms and it never stayed up there.
My builder was surprised, he was expecting we were revving to to 9-9500
My builder was surprised, he was expecting we were revving to to 9-9500
03-13-2003, 08:23 AM
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Re: How To: Wreck an H23VTEC (satan_srv)
So you think maybe it was this?
- Main bearing spun
- Huge heat generated
- Cracked main cap/crank
?
Cause I'm starting to think there's no way the crank cracked first, the crank snapping is what stopped the motor. It wouldn't turn after that
- Main bearing spun
- Huge heat generated
- Cracked main cap/crank
?
Cause I'm starting to think there's no way the crank cracked first, the crank snapping is what stopped the motor. It wouldn't turn after that
03-13-2003, 08:28 AM
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Re: How To: Wreck an H23VTEC (satan_srv)
So you think maybe it was this?
- Main bearing spun
- Huge heat generated
- Cracked main cap/crank
?
Cause I'm starting to think there's no way the crank cracked first, the crank snapping is what stopped the motor. It wouldn't turn after that
- Main bearing spun
- Huge heat generated
- Cracked main cap/crank
?
Cause I'm starting to think there's no way the crank cracked first, the crank snapping is what stopped the motor. It wouldn't turn after that
03-13-2003, 08:31 AM
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Re: How To: Wreck an H23VTEC (Jason kiDD)
Hey waddup mang long time no see. How is the Accord coming along. Any new developments..?
crazy
03-13-2003, 08:44 AM
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Re: How To: Wreck an H23VTEC (satan_srv)
good job dude, nicely broken... so your motor saga continues...
i suggest the H22A block this time (and better luck with it). keep up posted as to what you decide to do next. i'm curious...
i suggest the H22A block this time (and better luck with it). keep up posted as to what you decide to do next. i'm curious...
03-13-2003, 08:59 AM
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Re: How To: Wreck an H23VTEC (BB1)
good job dude, nicely broken... so your motor saga continues...
i suggest the H22A block this time (and better luck with it). keep up posted as to what you decide to do next. i'm curious...
i suggest the H22A block this time (and better luck with it). keep up posted as to what you decide to do next. i'm curious...
03-13-2003, 09:23 AM
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Re: How To: Wreck an H23VTEC (satan_srv)
Well, with the new crank you have 2.5mm of room to work with on the mains, right? That's a lot of metal to chew up, so I bet the block could be rescued. So I would say use your new 55mm caps, and line bore the block to match, then use the F20 crank and rods. Good luck, and thanks for posting the pictures...
03-13-2003, 09:29 AM
#23
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Re: How To: Wreck an H23VTEC (flyrod)
Well, with the new crank you have 2.5mm of room to work with on the mains, right? That's a lot of metal to chew up, so I bet the block could be rescued. So I would say use your new 55mm caps, and line bore the block to match, then use the F20 crank and rods. Good luck, and thanks for posting the pictures...
Block 4443 (but it's being bored out)
55mm caps 66644
F20B crank 54446
So how doe sit all match up? I'm going to try an locate the orginal main cpas for that block, ones that match the F20B crank maybe then.
03-13-2003, 09:36 AM
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Re: How To: Wreck an H23VTEC (satan_srv)
I just don't think the Cast H23 crank can take revs at that high of an RPM. Too mcuh heat build up, spun bearing, then kablooie! 
03-13-2003, 09:47 AM
#25
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Re: How To: Wreck an H23VTEC (Sushi X [TCL])
I just don't think the Cast H23 crank can take revs at that high of an RPM. Too mcuh heat build up, spun bearing, then kablooie!
Anyways I don't think the crank is the cause...
The more I think about it. I had a vibraton for a week, like the spun main. I didn't drive much, thought it was a header flex pipe issue...
Then while driving the car to get it opened up the main cap must have cracked cause the vibration got really bad....then the crank must have snapped and the car stopped dead.