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Old 12-22-2002, 03:09 PM
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Default Clutch Install

Just wondering how hard it is to do. Scale of 1-10 (i replaced rear drum shoes before)

1. What do i need to replace? (any rings, bolts, pins? Please Specify)

2. What Special tools do i need? (ring gear holder necessary?)

3. What special precautions are there?

4. Are there any shortcuts?

5. What size sockets are needed to remove the flywheel (i know they are 12 pt)

6. How long will this take if i have 2 buddees helping me? or alone?

7. DO I HAVE TO REMOVE THE RADIATOR???? and DRAIN IT?

i have an EXEDY Clutch Kit, and a OEM lightened flywheel. Honda MTF


[Modified by G2-Rex, 1:41 PM 12/27/2002]
Old 12-22-2002, 03:34 PM
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Default Re: Clutch Install (G2-Rex)

Just wondering how hard it is to do. Scale of 1-10 (i replaced rear drum shoes before)

1. What do i need to replace? (any rings, bolts, pins? Please Specify)

2. What Special tools do i need? (ring gear holder necessary?)

3. What special precautions are there?

4. Are there any shortcuts?

5. What size sockets are needed to remove the flywheel (i know they are 12 pt)

6. How long will this take if i have 2 buddees helping me? or alone?

Any help will be greatly appreciated! Thanks!

So far i have an EXEDY Clutch Kit, and a OEM lightened flywheel. Going to pick up some Honda MTF
1. If your getting a performance clutch it will probably come with every thing except the throw out bearing. You may want to replace the bearing since you will have it apart.

2. You may need a pickle fork to get ball joints off to remove the axels. Other than that you should be ok with a metric socket set.

3. Make sure you replace any transmission fluid that may come out after axel removal. Disconnet the battery 1st.

4. Just take your time. It should not take much longer than 4 hours to do.

5. You dont need to remove the flywheel unless you are going to resurface it. I beleive its a 12 pt 14mm socket if I'm not mistaken.

6. About 4 hours or so.




[Modified by ZC_CRX, 7:34 PM 12/22/2002]
Old 12-22-2002, 03:35 PM
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Default Re: Clutch Install (G2-Rex)

replacing a clutch is easy id say, nothing needs replacing unless a bolt looks worn, you will need a torque wrench to put the flywheel on correctly, and be sure to bolt it on in a cross manner, i changed a clutch with one friend with no airtools, just a little craftsman tool set in 1 hour 2 minutes, the hardest part is getting the tranny back on since i have no tranny jack, but it is not bad if you got people to help shove it on. have fun.
Old 12-22-2002, 03:51 PM
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Default Re: Clutch Install (G2-Rex)

Here is some pics of my install:
Old 12-22-2002, 04:02 PM
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Default Re: Clutch Install (ZC_CRX)

from the time you put your car on jackstands to the time you get your car on the ground i woud say 2 hours. if you know what you are doing. me and my friend put a tranny in his car, took 2 hours,with a break. and we pulled the old one out. but its not that hard i you have 2 people. have fun
Old 12-23-2002, 01:59 AM
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Default Re: Clutch Install (wu tang)

ok i just want to make sure on the flywheel socket size since i will be buying some tools to get this done

So heres a list of the stuff ill be getting (let me know if i need to add anything)

- 2 quarts HONDA MTF
- Breaker Bar
- 12 pt sockets to take off bolts
- Pitch fork
need to replace axle nuts
- cotter pins (necessary or replace?)
- flywheel resurface
-
Old 12-23-2002, 06:54 AM
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Default Re: Clutch Install (G2-Rex)

eh, I just am in the middle of doing mine. 17 mm and 10 mm 12 points for the flywheel and plate.
Old 12-23-2002, 07:57 AM
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Default Re: Clutch Install (G2-Rex)

ok i just want to make sure on the flywheel socket size since i will be buying some tools to get this done

So heres a list of the stuff ill be getting (let me know if i need to add anything)

- 2 quarts HONDA MTF
- Breaker Bar
- 12 pt sockets to take off bolts
- Pitch fork
need to replace axle nuts
- cotter pins (necessary or replace?)
- flywheel resurface
-
pickle fork for ball joint is not necessary ( you can do it with a hammer ) but the pcker fork worth every penny it cost, it goes way better !!!!

then, you will need grease, for the bearing, dont forget to lub it really well before having it in place!!

get your friend with you, it's not a big job, but you will like to have them with you when you will remove the tranny.

I said around 4 hours, maybe 3.

see ya
kranked
Old 12-23-2002, 08:24 AM
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Default Re: Clutch Install (kranked91dx)

You need a clutch alignment tool too...you can buy one or use a long 10mm 3/8 socket with electrical tape wrapped around the outer end.
Old 12-23-2002, 09:31 AM
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Default Re: Clutch Install (kranked91dx)

why do all u crazy people touch the ball joints!!!! dont mess with them its a fpinta!!! just undo the sway bar and the LCA and everything swings out!!!.
Old 12-23-2002, 10:00 AM
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Default Re: Clutch Install (XEF-8X)

why do all u crazy people touch the ball joints!!!! dont mess with them its a fpinta!!! just undo the sway bar and the LCA and everything swings out!!!.
exactly...
Old 12-23-2002, 11:01 AM
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Default Re: Clutch Install (Mr. S)

and how does that work? so i do NOT have to take out the axles? or what? im confused now
Old 12-23-2002, 12:51 PM
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Default Re: Clutch Install (G2-Rex)

yes u do have to take the axles out. but u do not need to break the ball joints to take the axles out. just unbolt the lca and the sway bar and the whole rotor assembly swings out and u can pop the axles out. i can get both my axles out in 25 mins and that includes lifting the car on jack stands and such.
Old 12-23-2002, 12:57 PM
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Default Re: Clutch Install (XEF-8X)

damn I wish you guys were here when I did mine. it took me and my dad a day and a half to do it. 'cause the motor mount was broken and a bunch of other little ****. we couldn't get that piece inside the flywheel out cause it was bent.. (the ring) changing a clutch is to confusing when you really dont know what your doing. i'm honda illiterate
Old 12-23-2002, 01:16 PM
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Default Re: Clutch Install (BLuDoHcReX)

Here's what you need:

- 10mm, 12mm, 14mm, 17mm sockets
- 10mm & 17mm 12pt sockets
- 2" and 6" extensions
- 17mm wrench
- 2 jacks
- piece of wood to support the engine on
- 2 jack stands
- tranny fluid
- ball joint seperater
- flat head screw driver (make sure it's pretty sturdy)
- 2 cotter pins
- clutch kit (most clutch kits come with pressure plate, clutch, clutch alignment tool, and throw-out bearing)
- pilot bearing (for the flywheel)

If you have air tools, it'll take 4hrs for your first time... fastest I've ever done a clutch job by myself was 1hr 15mins.

1. open hood and disconnect and remove battery
2. remove intake up to the throttle body
3. remove battery tray
4. unbolt ground wire from tranny
5. disconnect clutch cable
6. disconnect starter wires
7. disconnect reverse switch
8. disconnect speedo cable (there's a clip on the cable that has to be removed)
9. unbolt the starter from tranny (two bolts)
10. jack the car up, secure on stands and drain tranny
11. remove tranny/engine thing (it's near the front mount, connects the tranny and engine).
12. remove wheels and unbolt shock forks from both sides
13. seperate passenger side ball joint
14. using screwdriver, pop driveaxles out of tranny
15. swing passenger side spindle from car
16. unbolt "traction" rod from LCA (two 17mm bolts)
17. place jack under engine, and place piece of wood on jack and jack up under the oil pan. use it as support.
18. unbolt front tranny mount and rear tranny mount
19. place 2nd jack under tranny
20. unbolt pass side tranny mount
21. begin removing bolts around the bellhousing that bolt to the engine
22. slowly lower tranny jack until tranny seperates from engine.
23. place screwdriver in open area and slowly lower jack supporting the engine. this should give you a handle to pry the tranny from the engine. if this doesn't work, shake the tranny while pulling to get it to pull from the engine...it shouldn't be too hard.
24. remvoe tranny from car.

simply stuff.

I've done like 8 clutches in my crx, my friend's crx, a prelude, etc etc
Old 12-23-2002, 01:19 PM
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Default Re: Clutch Install (Driven)

oh, the 12pt 10mm socket is for the pressure plate, the 17mm is for the flywheel.

Old 12-23-2002, 01:28 PM
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Default Re: Clutch Install (Driven)

why do all u crazy people touch the ball joints!!!! dont mess with them its a fpinta!!! just undo the sway bar and the LCA and everything swings out!!!.
Agreed!

Forgot to mention the Bitch Pin, you'll also need a 5/16" pin punch and a BFH.
Old 12-23-2002, 01:35 PM
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Default Re: Clutch Install (Driven)

u dont need cotter pins or ball joint seperator. u dont need too touch them!! just the lcas and the sway bars!!!.
Old 12-23-2002, 03:30 PM
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Default Re: Clutch Install (XEF-8X)

u dont need cotter pins or ball joint seperator. u dont need too touch them!! just the lcas and the sway bars!!!.
that's another way to do it.

just make sure you get an alignment after if you tweak it too bad.

Old 12-23-2002, 05:10 PM
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Default Re: Clutch Install (Driven)

Totally agree, ball joints are major PITA, suprised nobody is suggesting what I did last time, disconnect the engine harness from car, pull engine and trans out the top. I had some other work I had to do at the same time though. Use a clutch alignment tool, dont try to get by without one. They can cost up to $25 for the universal one.
Old 12-23-2002, 05:23 PM
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Default Re: Clutch Install (Driven)

just make sure you get an alignment after if you tweak it too bad.
You don't kick the thing after its out, or whiles its in for that matter, unless you happen to lack intelligence there is no reason to get an alignment after you disconnect the lcas and knock the axles loose. If im not mistaken the honda manual even says to do it that way and it is foolish to do it any other way. Getting the axles out via the ball joints is like removing an engine through the firewall, unnecessary and more work than its worth. imo.


[Modified by altoid, 9:24 PM 12/23/2002]
Old 12-23-2002, 10:29 PM
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Default Re: Clutch Install (altoid)

anyone have pictures of the bolts of the LCA and swaybar? so i can locate them easily?
so no alignment then?
Old 12-24-2002, 12:26 AM
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Default Re: Clutch Install (G2-Rex)

New idea thats worked for me many a time.....I drop the upper control arm(17mm socket under hood....I also remove the whole strut as well. I hate the ball joints with a passion and if you have sttock ball joints...they may be hard to re-tighten afterwards cause theyll spin on you requiring someone to stand on the rotor and temporarily press the BJ into the tapered seat so you can tighten that 17mm down underneath. I prefer the strut removal way because I can have my strut out and the upper control arm out in 15 minutes per side. then you pull the knuckle away from the chassis and the axle will be able to be wiggled out of the tranny/spindle. I just did this 2 weeks ago.
~Alex
Old 12-24-2002, 07:15 AM
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Default Re: Clutch Install (slowcarguy)

its still easier to unbolt the lca and sway bar. 20 mins both sides! includes jacking the car up
Old 12-24-2002, 07:25 AM
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Default Re: Clutch Install (XEF-8X)

pictures of the sway bar/LCA removal woudl eb nice, i have always doen it with the ball joint, i have ot do another clutch here soon, so if i can do it easier i would love to.


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