Wheel Studs, Fact
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Wheel Studs, Fact
Several of you asked me to post my findings on the Acura TL wheel studs. I figured I'd start a new topic so someone could search more accurately.
Fact #1 - The 1992-1995 Civic wheel stud knurl diameter is .480", and the entire stud length is 1.674" long.
Fact #2 - The 1996-1998 Acura TL-3.2 REAR stud knurl diameter is .480", and the entire stud length is 2.079" long.
Holding the TL stud up to the H&R stud (the ones that come with the 5mm spacer kit for the Civic) currently welded into my hub, they look to be exactally the same length. Now, the TL studs are more expensive at about $4 each from the dealer. However, it appears that they can be had for slightly over $3 from acuraautomotiveparts.net as Tyson will attest to.
Not that there's anything wrong with the H&R studs since they seem to work for everyone but me, but looking at the H&R knurl, it's got about 1/2 the "teeth" as the OE Honda/Acura ones do, so it doesn't have quite the "grab" into the hub bore as the OE bits. I ended up welding my H&R studs into the hub since they were loose, so they'll most likely work just fine now.
This is a side-by-side picture of the factory Civic stud next to the TL-3.2 rear stud. If you order these, remember to specify the TL-3.2 series, and the REAR studs. Keep in mind that this is simply another option for those looking for a longer wheel stud with a OE fit. Please feel free to add useful information to this thread.
A few days before my "issue" with the H&R studs, I ordered a full set of 57mm H&R studs. I'll probably still use them, but I'll defenately weld them in.
Modified by johng at 6:20 PM 9/8/2003
Modified by johng at 9:41 AM 3/19/2004
Modified by johng at 9:50 AM 3/19/2004
Modified by johng at 10:00 AM 3/19/2004
Fact #1 - The 1992-1995 Civic wheel stud knurl diameter is .480", and the entire stud length is 1.674" long.
Fact #2 - The 1996-1998 Acura TL-3.2 REAR stud knurl diameter is .480", and the entire stud length is 2.079" long.
Holding the TL stud up to the H&R stud (the ones that come with the 5mm spacer kit for the Civic) currently welded into my hub, they look to be exactally the same length. Now, the TL studs are more expensive at about $4 each from the dealer. However, it appears that they can be had for slightly over $3 from acuraautomotiveparts.net as Tyson will attest to.
Not that there's anything wrong with the H&R studs since they seem to work for everyone but me, but looking at the H&R knurl, it's got about 1/2 the "teeth" as the OE Honda/Acura ones do, so it doesn't have quite the "grab" into the hub bore as the OE bits. I ended up welding my H&R studs into the hub since they were loose, so they'll most likely work just fine now.
This is a side-by-side picture of the factory Civic stud next to the TL-3.2 rear stud. If you order these, remember to specify the TL-3.2 series, and the REAR studs. Keep in mind that this is simply another option for those looking for a longer wheel stud with a OE fit. Please feel free to add useful information to this thread.
A few days before my "issue" with the H&R studs, I ordered a full set of 57mm H&R studs. I'll probably still use them, but I'll defenately weld them in.
Modified by johng at 6:20 PM 9/8/2003
Modified by johng at 9:41 AM 3/19/2004
Modified by johng at 9:50 AM 3/19/2004
Modified by johng at 10:00 AM 3/19/2004
#2
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Re: Wheel Studs, Fact (johng)
thanks for the info. Btw, that comes out to 10mm extra, not bad.
Part Number Image Description Year Model List Price Our Price Click to Buy
90113-SD2-005 BOLT, WHEEL 86 - 89 INTEGRA 4.27 3.42 Qty:
90113-SD2-005 BOLT, WHEEL 96 - 98 TL 4.27 3.42 Qty:
Modified by Tyson at 10:38 AM 3/2/2006
Part Number Image Description Year Model List Price Our Price Click to Buy
90113-SD2-005 BOLT, WHEEL 86 - 89 INTEGRA 4.27 3.42 Qty:
90113-SD2-005 BOLT, WHEEL 96 - 98 TL 4.27 3.42 Qty:
Modified by Tyson at 10:38 AM 3/2/2006
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Re: Wheel Studs, Fact (Tyson)
So while we're on the topic, which ARP studs are the proper ones to use?
I've seen two different part numbers used successfully.
I've seen two different part numbers used successfully.
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Re: Wheel Studs, Fact (Reid)
So while we're on the topic, which ARP studs are the proper ones to use?
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Re: Wheel Studs, Fact (johng)
None to my knowledge. The ARP knurl is 1/2" diameter and requires drilling of the Honda hub. If you forced it in, that's bad mu-ju.
Does this mean I can use these wheelstuds on my Civic?
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Re: Wheel Studs, Fact (johng)
Both the civic and Integra studs have the same sized knurl. The only thing that is different is the length of the stud. Obviously a longer stud can be used in a broader range of honda products. The TL stud John got can be used in a 99-00 Si hub as well.
#10
Re: Wheel Studs, Fact (nortrop)
one more bit of info that I and Tyson can attest to, use anti-seize. This is more for the open track & road race folks to have to deal with the higher heats that transferes to the stud & lugnut.
Thanks for the info John!
Thanks for the info John!
#11
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Re: Wheel Studs, Fact (johng)
I'll bet the "new" 3.5 TL studs are in fact the same dimension as the 86-89 Teg rear studs that I posted info on about 2 years ago.
EDIT: I found my extra 86-89 stud (bought nine JIC) and it has a 1.878 OAL.
BTW make sure you have some open-ended lugnuts packed away with your spare tire. The factory chrome nuts will bottom out on the longer studs and not hold the wheel in place.
[Modified by Mista Bone, 2:11 AM 8/2/2002]
EDIT: I found my extra 86-89 stud (bought nine JIC) and it has a 1.878 OAL.
BTW make sure you have some open-ended lugnuts packed away with your spare tire. The factory chrome nuts will bottom out on the longer studs and not hold the wheel in place.
[Modified by Mista Bone, 2:11 AM 8/2/2002]
#12
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Re: Wheel Studs, Fact (Mista Bone)
give the man a bone, same part number for integra and TL. i vaguely remember you mentioning awhile ago.
Modified by Tyson at 3:25 PM 7/30/2004
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Re: Wheel Studs, Fact (johng)
i do believe Moroso makes a set to the same specs
its a late model GM bolt
i will have to look into the part number again
found it
46150 Wheel Studs—7/16"-20 x 2-7/8" Press-in, .480" dia. knurl and quick start dog end, fits most late GM drum brake applications. Standard hole size: .472" to .479"
[Modified by 555R, 9:54 PM 8/4/2002]
its a late model GM bolt
i will have to look into the part number again
found it
46150 Wheel Studs—7/16"-20 x 2-7/8" Press-in, .480" dia. knurl and quick start dog end, fits most late GM drum brake applications. Standard hole size: .472" to .479"
[Modified by 555R, 9:54 PM 8/4/2002]
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Re: Wheel Studs, Fact (martini)
Yes. The H&R knurls didn't grab the hub like the OE ones. Others don't seem to have the same problem I had. Go figure.
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Re: Wheel Studs, Fact (johng)
I went through this a few years ago. I went to my local car supply shop and sorted through the bins until I found what looks exactly like the TL lug pictured. Everything was identical to the Integra GSR lug I wanted to replace except the length of thread. I think I payed just under $2 each.
Somewhere on this board (or its predecessor) I posted the part number and manufacturer, but I'm just guessing the search won't work (again) and I don't have the box anymore.
Somewhere on this board (or its predecessor) I posted the part number and manufacturer, but I'm just guessing the search won't work (again) and I don't have the box anymore.
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Re: Wheel Studs, Fact (GSRMatt)
This is just a follow up in an effort to keep all the information in one place. Sorry if the horse is already dead.
This is a picture of my new 57mm H&R studs (the ones I ordered before I had the problem) in comparison to the TL and the Civic stud. You can see the knurl on the H&R stud is quite a bit shorter, and the "head" of the stud is thicker. Imagine each stud seated flush into the hub. The H&R stud looks to have less "grab" than the other two, therefore, may be the reason mine were loose and required welding.
Does anyone see any reason why tack-welding wheel studs would be a bad thing? Besides the obvious replacing problem.
This is a picture of my new 57mm H&R studs (the ones I ordered before I had the problem) in comparison to the TL and the Civic stud. You can see the knurl on the H&R stud is quite a bit shorter, and the "head" of the stud is thicker. Imagine each stud seated flush into the hub. The H&R stud looks to have less "grab" than the other two, therefore, may be the reason mine were loose and required welding.
Does anyone see any reason why tack-welding wheel studs would be a bad thing? Besides the obvious replacing problem.
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Re: Wheel Studs, Fact (johng)
I cant think of a reason why i would be bad...other than replacement like you mentioned. It may actually be better because of the added material from the welding....better heat dissipation. Heat dissipation dosent matter if you arent taking the wheels off while the car is hot, though.