beater1

Does bigger always mean better? I was planning to bore my GSR block to 84 mm and have it sleeved. Is this going to be better for turbo application or shoudl i not do this.

Also, i was planning to have the TYPE-R head ported and polished to use +1 oversized valves instead of stock or just +.5. Is this better to do or should i leave it smaller.

Like i have said in other threads, im used to N?A applications, and now im trying for a turbo setup!!!

slvrcvc93

Well bigger is better if its built properly I'm not 100 percent on this but boring the gsr will give you more top end power but boring it to 84 you should be looking for torque. What you want to do is change the stroke with ls length rods that will help give you better mid to low end power.

But the difference in a ls crank is longer so the stroke comes form the crank not the rod I believe they do make a stoker kit to bump the gsr crank up.

If you put oversize valves in yes this will help because the more air you can pack into the combustion chamber it will increase power. The exhaust needs to be compensated to do this to let air out but it will definitely help.

beater1

so should i use and LS crank and rods? If i use this, will this change what i need to have done to the block?

sageuvagony

I think that if you use LS crank and rods, you shouldn't be revving at 8,200 anymore. I remember alot of people saying thats a huge oversight and people blow LS/VTECs. Something about the stroke being too different. I know it doesn't answer your question, but just some advice.

beater1

I have been doing the research, and have noticed alot of people using the B20b for their builds because they come with 84 mm pistons already, therefore the money is saved for the machine work on a B18C. The B20 doesnt come with a girdle, but not a major thing to get in its place if it can have one. See, here is the dilema, i want to use the best block and head setup, and know i have to use a different head from the block for the better power. But i dont really know what the best combination is! This is what i was thinking for the build(block and head):

B18c1 block, have it hot tanked/acid bathed, sleeved and bored to 84 mm, use an LS crank and rods for the longer stroke, low compression pistons for turbo and have them coated for extra protection and boost stress, block guard for extra strength at high boost, a custom billet 4 cyl. block girldle, Type-R oil pick-up, and have it all polished and made bulletproof.

Type-R head match ported and polished, multiangle valve job using stage 3 street/strip cams, oversized(+1) titanium valves, Dual valve springs, lifters, seats, etc. all same maker to insure parts will work together, adjustable cam gears. The fuel system will be all same brand and ported and polished for more power capabilities.

If there are any suggestions for this build according to my plan nbow, please give them up. If there is a better way to go, please let me know and explain in detail. I want to do this right the first time and get some really good numbers out of it! I want to be over 400whp and about 375-400 trq. Might sound crazy, but thats the plan and i am sticking to it. Plus, i got a friend with a turbo probe with fully built motor and hes talking alot of S#!T(friendly) and its time for me to smoke his a$$ in a 4 cyl. Got him plenty in the V*, but thats not a real race! So, please help me out!

slvrcvc93

Well alot of the Things of your build are great but Im going to help you think of some Different options If you use the Gsr block and have it sleeved there is no need to use a block guard at all the deck will be really strong. A good thing about the GSR block is that it has the Girdle and it has oil squirter's so it lube the bottom of the pistons but if you going to sleeve, I'm only hoping you going to get forged rods and pistons. why I say this because after market forged rods and pistons have floating wrist pins they need minimal oil and will not need oil to be squirted on them. Most standard turbo setups peak at 6900 to 7700. There are exceptions to that depending on the setup.

Another option is by a b20 block it already has a longer stroke which will help about the revving issue Z10 makes an after market girdle for non Vtec motors. These motors are already 84mm as you already know so this is a plus. You can still sleeve these and you will have some great Characteristics. The b20 also gives a great amount of torque. Now the b20 doesn't have oil squirter's but again if your running forged setup you will be ok. The Type-R oil pump will make a great Difference on the b20 because the one thats in there is crap!

Another thing you can do if your worried about revving high you can have every part balanced and blueprinted in a machine shop. A good machine shop will balance it with the flywheel, clutch, rods, pistons and crank pulley. That way they can properly have the rotating mass balanced.

The head Doesn't matter if you use a Type-R because your redoing the entire thing so a b16 will be sufficient. The plus side if if you do source a Type-R the intake manifold and the cams are great for the setup. I don't recommend stage 3 cams those are meant more for all motor cars. The ramps of the cam is to violent and with the heat of the turbo air coming in Ive seen valves melt.

Stage 1 cams are more like CTR cams anyway and will give you the proper power. If you are going to get valves, valve springs and retainers 1 over on the intake is good and .5 on the exhaust is good 2. while your there get bronze valve guides pressed in Make sure you have flow-benched to make sure it is flowing are better than the factory numbers.

Last but not least is the fuel and ECU talk to a tuner let him recommend what ecu you should run or which is easiest for him to tune and depending on your boost level what size injectors. The setup I described to you will make well over 400 hp and over 300 torque.

My setup is a GSR motor forged rods and pistons and block guard. My head has a stage 2 port and polish dual tension valves and titanium retainers 00 USDM Type-R cams skunk 2 intake manifold 66mm throttle body. AEM fuel rail and regulator 255 walboro in tank fuel pump. 370cc injectors on a 1st gen afc. 14psi 356whp 247ft lbs torque. So what your building will definitely make some serious serious power.

There other things you will need like clutch flywheel the turbo setup itself you should post again on the turbo forum or just look at other peoples setups you will get a better idea on others setup. My motor will hold 20psi but I don't wanna drive it peaked out all the time when I did it made 421whp 280 ft lbs of torque but I did de-tune it but after a year I need new pistons rings so I am currently doing a rebuild.




Modified by slvrcvc93 at 8:13 PM 8/6/2008

racerxh00

the knowledge in this thread is amazing. i envy your builds, makes me want to go and get another job.