jchrm80

iTrader: (1)

My H22A swapped eg hatch wont start. I went to leave for work and it started up fine and idled. I went to take off and the car just died and now it wont start. I checked over the engine bay to make sure nothing came lose or was leaking. Power comes on, there's fuel pressure it just wont turn over. I was told it may be the coil, Does anyone have any other ideas of what could be happening or what i could check? I did a spark test, and no spark. I grounded the spark plug to the block and cranked it over. Any help will be greatly apreciated. Thanks

jchrm80

iTrader: (1)

Any ideas?

slowcivic2k

Check the BLK/YEL wire going to your distributor, many times people cut the wires (instead of repinning them) and the wire corrodes and/or works its way loose, seen this more times than I ever wanted to. Check the rest of the dizzy wires while your in there, you should have soldered them at least if you cut them up, those signals are very important.

jchrm80

iTrader: (1)

I was told it may be the coil, so I looked up a coil for a 1993 Prelude, and bought one. I'm not very knowlegable on h22 swaps and I wasnt sure if you keep the external coil when swapping the engine into an EG, so it may be useless. Should have looked into the problem more. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

jchrm80

iTrader: (1)

Anyone have an idea?

Dalon honda

check your timing belt, I just put a h22 in a del sol with a itr tranny BUT.... it runs with maby 2 codes and just dumps fuel out of #4 cyl like theres nothing there and its running on 3 cyl, all of the injecters and spark plugs, and cyls are working just no fire. You should check your timming belt tho.

slowcivic2k

Take a multimeter to the coil and measure the resistance of the coils. from the + to the - terminals should have around 5 ohms or less, and from the coil wire to the + and then the - should be around 16,000 ohms (16K ohms) Perform these tests with no wires connected to the coil

If your values are significantly higher, or close to zero, replace the coil. You can also turn the key to the ON (II) position and measure the voltage from the + terminal (BLK/YEL) wire to body ground, there should be 12 volts there with the key on, if not, you may have a break/blown fuse in that wire.

If you have power there with the key on, check the CKP sensor wiring and make sure it is connected. These wires should be soldered for the best conductivity if you cut the harness.

These are the only two things needed to spark the plugs, the CKP to trigger the spark, and the coil to charge up and release voltage to the plug.

jchrm80

iTrader: (1)

Thanks alot man, you helped tons!

Thanks for the help everyone! It was the coil.

b18c1ej8

you would be suprised i had that problem and it was a loose connection in the fuse box

slowcivic2k

Yes, wire problems could occur just about anywhere, but because he swapped it into another car, I figured the distributor harness was modified to fit it. Common problem with swaps is resistance in the wires because people don't solder them up. Happened to myself no too long ago .