Rosko

iTrader: (1)

Well I've been pokin around at this for quite some time waiting on this or that but now it looks like its all going to be coming together over the next few weeks. I'm looking to drop this into a hatch someday when I turbo the lude so I didn't want to get too crazy with it and keep it somewhat streetable. Right now the build will consist of...

IB sleeved block
88mm wiseco H22 pistons 12:1 in this setup
micropolished H23 crankshaft
IB H23 rods
Alaniz ported head
Skunk2 Pro2 camshafts
Skunk2 complete valvetrain
Euro-R intake mani
Acura RDX fuel injectors
Sk2 70mm throttle body
Camp1320 header
MSD DIS4 (distributorless)
AEM EMS and wideband

At this point the block is all assembled and waiting on the head to return which should be here tomorrow. The only problem I've ran into so far is with the block. Its been a bit of a pita but I had Import Builders sleeve the block back in the fall, and it had sat on my shelf until early spring. When I finally got around to measuring it up I discovered a problem with one of the cylinders being out-of-round. Two trips to the machine shop later I ended up with a cylinder a little bigger than I'd like to see, but its better than where it started. Pics of the block...






The bottom end consists of an H23 crankshaft, IB H23 rods and coated 88mm 11.5:1 Wiseco H22 pistons (which will yield 12:1 with the h23 crank/rods and thicker headgasket)








Pistons installed, you can see the pistons sticking out roughly .02" since they are H22 spec. After I get the head and cc the chambers I will be able to know which headgasket thickness to run. Right now its going to be somewhere near .06" thick to keep the compression under 12:1






Another bump in the road was getting the oil squirters installed properly. Normally I don't run the squirters since the stock H23 rods have the oil hole in them, but these aftermarket IB rods didn't. I wanted to use them since I have plans to keep this somewhat streetable. It literally took me about two hours, installing them and uninstalling them, getting them all bent and aimed properly without hitting anything.




Installed a new oil pump and water pump. For the balance shafts I just cnc'd up the blockoff plates and inside the block spun the bearings 180 degrees to block the oil holes. I can never justify spending money when I can make stuff myself




I'll post up more pics as the parts come in

Hawkze_2.3

<-----Jealous

How is your ignition set up?

Rosko

iTrader: (1)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Hawkze_2.3 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">&lt;-----Jealous

How is your ignition set up?</TD></TR></TABLE>

I use the AEM EMS so I have multiple coil output capability (3 channels on my particular box, but it can be modded by aem to 4). I use only two outputs (wastefire setup) feeding into a MSD DIS-4 ignition box (4inputs and 4 outputs, though I only use two) After that coils 1+4 are wired in series and so are 2+3 which are Honda CBR954 motorcycle coils. I still utilize the stock cam/crank pickups only they are mounted in a custom billet enclosure where the stock distributor would go.

"wastefire" simply means that any given cylinder fires every 360 degrees of crank rotation rather than every 720 like a distributored setup. The coils are wired in series so that when cyl 1 fires on the compression stroke, cylinder 4 is firing on the exhaust stroke and vise versa.

xxmastermindxx

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Rosko &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">"wastefire" simply means that any given cylinder fires every 360 degrees of crank rotation rather than every 720 like a distributored setup. The coils are wired in series so that when cyl 1 fires on the compression stroke, cylinder 4 is firing on the exhaust stroke and vise versa. </TD></TR></TABLE>

is there any benefit/purpose to that?

Rosko

iTrader: (1)

As opposed to coil per cylinder? Not really, I would have liked to run CPC but at the time I didn't know AEM could add the additional driver. I can still control each coil individually, but a downside is that the coils are firing more than they need to so overheating could be a problem and maybe spark plug life? I doubt it though.

I think just about all cars today are ran distributorless. Alot are ran in wastefire too, like Chevy inparticular with their dual tower coils (3 on a V6)

ProjectBB6

iTrader: (1)

Nice... any certain horse power goal you are trying to reach with that setup?

P13_mein

what a waste of a closed deck block...throw some boost!
setup looks great
but your headgasket is probably goin to be as thick as a sandwich
did you consider ITB's?

Rosko

iTrader: (1)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by P13_mein &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">what a waste of a closed deck block...throw some boost!
setup looks great
but your headgasket is probably goin to be as thick as a sandwich
did you consider ITB's?</TD></TR></TABLE>

I'm boostin the next build and its gonna take a waaay better set of sleeves than these

Someday I'll have my ITB's reworked and get them back on, but for now I just want a good solid tune with the Euro-R.

The headgasket will be about .06" thick, originally I planned to use E85 so I wanted the compression to be up there in the 13's, but its still pretty hard to find around here so I decided to just run it on 92 octane with a thicker gasket.

Rosko

iTrader: (1)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ProjectBB6 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Nice... any certain horse power goal you are trying to reach with that setup?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Eventually I'd like 250, but its probably gonna take the ITB's and a different header to get there. If it gets around 225 as is I'll be happy.

Mykizism

looking good shawn.. keep up the good work

flyrod

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Rosko &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">originally I planned to use E85 </TD></TR></TABLE>

You're in iowa and can't get e85? Wow, I figured if you could get it anywhere that would be the place.

Anyway, looks good so far. Good luck and keep us posted!

Rosko

iTrader: (1)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by flyrod &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

You're in iowa and can't get e85? Wow, I figured if you could get it anywhere that would be the place.

Anyway, looks good so far. Good luck and keep us posted!</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yeah no doubt, there are a few stations that sell it but they are all out of my way and about a half hour drive to get to.

Missing Gears

glad to see you scuffed up the pistons by hand rather than just throwing them in out of the box

you shouldnt have any problem seeing 225. i think you may be suprised w/ the potential outcome. looks great, keep up the good work.

mgags7

I agree...I think the numbers will be good and high, that thing should make great torque.

Do you have any flow numbers on the head?

Is the IM gonna be able to keep up with flow with the head you think?

Looks great

Rosko

iTrader: (1)

got the head and header today

I thought that I would be getting flow sheets but I didn't see any in the box. I'll just assume it flows alot

The Euro-R may be a bottleneck, but I'd rather try it and find out rather than assume its not. If nothing else i'll start reworking my ITB's and see what they do. Theres a new dyno shop in town and I'll be doing the tuning there. When it comes time for the ITB's I'll do some back to back runs and see what happens.




Modified by Rosko at 1:32 AM 7/16/2007

ECX

Looks like a great setup thus far, keep us posted!!!

Missing Gears

hey rosko, you may want to consider champhering the edges of the combustion chambers slightly. when i was running that identical bottom end setup my pistons were out of the hole about the same and i had a problem w/ the pistons actually hitting the edge of the chambers. the pistons were just barely kissing the head. i would have never known except after each pass at the track it would idle slightly off and i was finding aluminum flakes while checking the plugs. eventually the ringlands gave way and then i was finding oil on top of the pistons. suprisingly the motor still ran strong even w/ broken ringlands on all 4 pistons. although i cant remember exactly what thickness gasket i was running, i think it may have been a .050 cometic. after that experience i opted for h22 rods w/ custom pistons


if they were stock 87mm bore it never would have happened because the pistons obviously would have had clearence to fit into the chamber a bit if needed. i thought i had plenty of clearence but the pistons expanded more than i had planned for. just something to consider and maybee check over a few times during assembly

Rosko

iTrader: (1)

^^ good advice I'll be sure to check that out. I thought about just machining the counterbore to match the bore, any thoughts on that?

I don't think it will be an issue with the .06" gasket I ordered but if I ever go to a thinner one and run E85 I'm sure it will be an issue.

98vtec

good luck shawn, maybe i will finish mine after i fix my mishap

chitownrida

sick buildup

cant wait for results

flyrod

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Rosko &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">^^ good advice I'll be sure to check that out. I thought about just machining the counterbore to match the bore, any thoughts on that?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Pirate cut his chambers to handle pistons sticking out of the deck, and Six Sigma Racing cut the pistons down. A thick gasket should achieve the same thing; I would just measure the clearance and decide what to do from there. You could set the head on the block without a gasket, turn the crank slowly and let the pistons lift the head off the block. Measure the gap and that is how thick your gasket has to be for zero clearance. You can also experiment with bits of shim stock and feeler gauges to situate the head nice and level with the pistons just touching, then go from there. If you do cut the head, note that the piston crown and gasket bore is significantly smaller than the cylinder bore (at least on the oem parts).

Rosko

iTrader: (1)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by flyrod &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Pirate cut his chambers to handle pistons sticking out of the deck, and Six Sigma Racing cut the pistons down. A thick gasket should achieve the same thing; I would just measure the clearance and decide what to do from there. You could set the head on the block without a gasket, turn the crank slowly and let the pistons lift the head off the block. Measure the gap and that is how thick your gasket has to be for zero clearance. You can also experiment with bits of shim stock and feeler gauges to situate the head nice and level with the pistons just touching, then go from there. If you do cut the head, note that the piston crown and gasket bore is significantly smaller than the cylinder bore (at least on the oem parts).
</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yeah thats what I was thinkin, but I don't want to create any sharp edges there either. On the last head that I did myself, I designed the chamber in Solidworks so that the sides of the chamber matched perfectly with the bore. That head unfortunately got destroyed though.

Rosko

iTrader: (1)

Heres the pics of my Alaniz head that came yesterday












And heres one of the Camp1320 header...

98vtec

is that alaniz head the one i sold you?

Rosko

iTrader: (1)

Tomorrow I'll assemble the head onto the block with the thinner gasket that I already have and see how things look. I'm anxious to play with my degree wheel kit!

The new cometic gasket should be here mid next week hopefully.