5 lug conversion using 4 lug spindles front and rear
For any one who said that it couldn't be done!! I did it , without buying whole trailing arm assemblies on the rear. Im in the works in doing a write up on the conversion using your parts on your car and buying parts you need to do the conversion.
how's this coming? The front is easy to do, just swapping out the hubs, but I'm really curious about the rear...
I don't think the original poster is going to respond. For some reason, the thread was "reset", and he never posted again. There used to be content, but a lot of people began to contest and doubt that this could be done. A lot of information has been deleted.
I'm pretty sure you're right. I do remember him using some axle nut from a Mazda... Can't remember which one though. That was some good info too... 
Luckily I have the ITR rear trailing arms so no biggie here. But I like having access to info when I need it.

Luckily I have the ITR rear trailing arms so no biggie here. But I like having access to info when I need it.
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Jdm-Beast »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">For any one who said that it couldn't be done!! I did it , without buying whole trailing arm assemblies on the rear.</TD></TR></TABLE>
You don't need to buy complete trailing arm assemblies for *any* rear brake conversion, considering that trailing arms are exactly the same for all '88-00 Civic/CRX/del Sol and '90-01 Integra models, with exception of the larger main bushing diameter on '90-93 Integras.
This is common knowledge.
You don't need to buy complete trailing arm assemblies for *any* rear brake conversion, considering that trailing arms are exactly the same for all '88-00 Civic/CRX/del Sol and '90-01 Integra models, with exception of the larger main bushing diameter on '90-93 Integras.
This is common knowledge.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Targa250R »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
You don't need to buy complete trailing arm assemblies for *any* rear brake conversion, considering that trailing arms are exactly the same for all '88-00 Civic/CRX/del Sol and '90-01 Integra models, with exception of the larger main bushing diameter on '90-93 Integras.
This is common knowledge.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Except for the ITR/CTR spindles, which are not available individually.
You don't need to buy complete trailing arm assemblies for *any* rear brake conversion, considering that trailing arms are exactly the same for all '88-00 Civic/CRX/del Sol and '90-01 Integra models, with exception of the larger main bushing diameter on '90-93 Integras.
This is common knowledge.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Except for the ITR/CTR spindles, which are not available individually.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by spAdam »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Except for the ITR/CTR spindles, which are not available individually.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Neither are any others. Across the whole line, spindles are not sold separately from trailing arms. Hubs are.
Am I missing something about this "secret" conversion? Is there some dimensional difference in the spindle that doesn't allow 5-lug hubs and wheel bearings to press onto a 4-lug disc spindle?
Neither are any others. Across the whole line, spindles are not sold separately from trailing arms. Hubs are.
Am I missing something about this "secret" conversion? Is there some dimensional difference in the spindle that doesn't allow 5-lug hubs and wheel bearings to press onto a 4-lug disc spindle?
yep. the 5-lug stub axle is thicker andthe caliper mounts are further out to accomodate the larger rear brakes. This thread originally caught my attention because I've been looking for a way around this for the better part of 8 years using off the shelf parts.
I could always machine a new hub that uses the smaller bearing, and then use an adapter bracket such as fastbrakes sells, but I'm trying to come up with a bolt on solution. One of the reasons that I've been building and racing hondas all this time is because of the parts interchangeability and the fact that I can find factory parts almost anywhere. In fact, its pretty much the only reason I'm still interested in the 5 lug conversion. I've been running 11.1 inch front brakes on my personal car by redrilling prelude rotors or using the fastbrakes ones, but it would sure be nice to be able to get off the shelf rotors once in awhile... The rest of the performance gains are negligible by using the 5 lug setup.
I could always machine a new hub that uses the smaller bearing, and then use an adapter bracket such as fastbrakes sells, but I'm trying to come up with a bolt on solution. One of the reasons that I've been building and racing hondas all this time is because of the parts interchangeability and the fact that I can find factory parts almost anywhere. In fact, its pretty much the only reason I'm still interested in the 5 lug conversion. I've been running 11.1 inch front brakes on my personal car by redrilling prelude rotors or using the fastbrakes ones, but it would sure be nice to be able to get off the shelf rotors once in awhile... The rest of the performance gains are negligible by using the 5 lug setup.
I've got the ITR rear trailing arms. But I'm interested in this as a I have another car that's on the stock 4 lug setup. All my rims/wheels are 5 bolts which I bought for my RSX (winter steelies, OEM, 02+ ITR/DC5R wheels and 06+ Civic EX wheels). I've only 1 set of 4 lugs (Motegi MR-7s that I bought way back before I sold my 7th gen Civic.
I kinda wish someone would sell the spindles or mass produce them. They might sell... My trailing arms were from an auto recycler and are pretty gross (rusty, covered in undercoat).
I'm planning on picking up a set of 97-01 CR-V front knuckles for the 36mm spline (RSX-S axles with K-series swap). Since the CR-V rears are drums, I still need a set of 5-lug rear hubs and a way to mount them.
I believe the DC2R rear wheels are 3mm (or was it 6mm?) further apart than the Civic and regular DC2's.
I kinda wish someone would sell the spindles or mass produce them. They might sell... My trailing arms were from an auto recycler and are pretty gross (rusty, covered in undercoat).
I'm planning on picking up a set of 97-01 CR-V front knuckles for the 36mm spline (RSX-S axles with K-series swap). Since the CR-V rears are drums, I still need a set of 5-lug rear hubs and a way to mount them.
I believe the DC2R rear wheels are 3mm (or was it 6mm?) further apart than the Civic and regular DC2's.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by spAdam »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">yep. the 5-lug stub axle is thicker andthe caliper mounts are further out to accomodate the larger rear brakes. This thread originally caught my attention because I've been looking for a way around this for the better part of 8 years using off the shelf parts.</TD></TR></TABLE>
That explains it then.
I misunderstood what was being discussed here. It's a shame that the information was deleted, although sometimes it really is better for posterity that way when flaming and misinformation cause confusion.
That explains it then.
I misunderstood what was being discussed here. It's a shame that the information was deleted, although sometimes it really is better for posterity that way when flaming and misinformation cause confusion.
Yeah, i have a solution worked out...just need to get the parts side by side to ake a comparison and take some measurements. Finding those parts not on a car is the hard part though...
IM IN THE PROCESS IN RE-DOING THE WRITE UP. ANY QUESTIONS PLEASE TEXT MESSAGE ME AT 305-989-6746. ITCAN BE DONE AND I HAVE PROOF IN DOING IT. IF ANYBODY IS IN SOUTH FLORIDA, I CAN HELP YOU BUILD IT.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by spAdam »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">yep. the 5-lug stub axle is thicker andthe caliper mounts are further out to accomodate the larger rear brakes. This thread originally caught my attention because I've been looking for a way around this for the better part of 8 years using off the shelf parts.
I could always machine a new hub that uses the smaller bearing, and then use an adapter bracket such as fastbrakes sells, but I'm trying to come up with a bolt on solution. One of the reasons that I've been building and racing hondas all this time is because of the parts interchangeability and the fact that I can find factory parts almost anywhere. In fact, its pretty much the only reason I'm still interested in the 5 lug conversion. I've been running 11.1 inch front brakes on my personal car by redrilling prelude rotors or using the fastbrakes ones, but it would sure be nice to be able to get off the shelf rotors once in awhile... The rest of the performance gains are negligible by using the 5 lug setup.</TD></TR></TABLE>
THE SPINDLE IS NOT THICKER BUT IT IS LONGER.
ALL THE PARTS YOU NEED TO GET FOR THE BACK IS:
4 LUG DISC BRAKE REAR TRAILING ARM ASSEMBLY WITH HUB
TYPE R HUBS
TYPE R CALIPER AND BRACKETS FROM 98 TO 01. (NOT FROM 97, ITS NOT THE SAME)
TYPE R BRAKE HOSE (CAN USE 4 LUG HOSE ONLY IT WILL BE A LITTLE TIGHT)
MAZDA 626, PROTEGE AXLE NUT 93-2002
DISCARD THE WASHER FROM ORIGINAL SPINDLE BECAUSE THE MAZDA NUT WILL BE BIG ENOUGH
ANY QUESTIONS, TEXT ME AT 305-989-6746.
I could always machine a new hub that uses the smaller bearing, and then use an adapter bracket such as fastbrakes sells, but I'm trying to come up with a bolt on solution. One of the reasons that I've been building and racing hondas all this time is because of the parts interchangeability and the fact that I can find factory parts almost anywhere. In fact, its pretty much the only reason I'm still interested in the 5 lug conversion. I've been running 11.1 inch front brakes on my personal car by redrilling prelude rotors or using the fastbrakes ones, but it would sure be nice to be able to get off the shelf rotors once in awhile... The rest of the performance gains are negligible by using the 5 lug setup.</TD></TR></TABLE>
THE SPINDLE IS NOT THICKER BUT IT IS LONGER.
ALL THE PARTS YOU NEED TO GET FOR THE BACK IS:
4 LUG DISC BRAKE REAR TRAILING ARM ASSEMBLY WITH HUB
TYPE R HUBS
TYPE R CALIPER AND BRACKETS FROM 98 TO 01. (NOT FROM 97, ITS NOT THE SAME)
TYPE R BRAKE HOSE (CAN USE 4 LUG HOSE ONLY IT WILL BE A LITTLE TIGHT)
MAZDA 626, PROTEGE AXLE NUT 93-2002
DISCARD THE WASHER FROM ORIGINAL SPINDLE BECAUSE THE MAZDA NUT WILL BE BIG ENOUGH
ANY QUESTIONS, TEXT ME AT 305-989-6746.
AS FOR THE FRONTS, YOU CAN USE CR-V KNUCKLES. THEY ARE THE SAME PART FOR JDM TYPE R DC2 KNUCKLES. OR YOU CAN USE EX OR INTEGRA KNUCKLES BUT YOU WILL NEED TO GET:
USDM ITR HUBS (32MM HUBS) AND ITR, 4-LUG INTEGRA OR CIVIC BEARINGS
OR CR-V, PRELUDE HUBS (36MM HUBS) AND CR-V OR PRELUDE BEARINGS(GREAT FOR JDM ITR SWAPS)
23T CALIPER BRACKETS FOUND IN ITR, PRELUDES H22 92-01, ACCORD WAGONS, CR-V, ACURA LEGEND.
CALIPERS FROM ITR, CR-V, PRELUDE H22 92-01 (THEY ARE ALL THE SMAE CALIPER) OR ACURA LEGEND (DUAL PISTON CALIPERS)
ROTORS FROM ITR, CR-V, PRELUDE H22 97-01.
USDM ITR HUBS (32MM HUBS) AND ITR, 4-LUG INTEGRA OR CIVIC BEARINGS
OR CR-V, PRELUDE HUBS (36MM HUBS) AND CR-V OR PRELUDE BEARINGS(GREAT FOR JDM ITR SWAPS)
23T CALIPER BRACKETS FOUND IN ITR, PRELUDES H22 92-01, ACCORD WAGONS, CR-V, ACURA LEGEND.
CALIPERS FROM ITR, CR-V, PRELUDE H22 92-01 (THEY ARE ALL THE SMAE CALIPER) OR ACURA LEGEND (DUAL PISTON CALIPERS)
ROTORS FROM ITR, CR-V, PRELUDE H22 97-01.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Player_One »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Jdm-Beast, good to see you back on this thread! 
Do you know if the ITR rear hubs (on 4 lug spindle) are pushed out that extra little bit just like on full ITR spindles?</TD></TR></TABLE>
YES AND NO.
I WILL EXPLAIN, THE HUBS FOR SOME REASON ARE THE SAME WIDTH, YOUR ROTORS AND WHEELS PUSH OUT YOUR TRACK 5MM EACH SIDE. THE BEARING IN THE HUB ASSEMBLY IS THICKER THAN THE HUB FROM THE 4-LUG.

Do you know if the ITR rear hubs (on 4 lug spindle) are pushed out that extra little bit just like on full ITR spindles?</TD></TR></TABLE>
YES AND NO.
I WILL EXPLAIN, THE HUBS FOR SOME REASON ARE THE SAME WIDTH, YOUR ROTORS AND WHEELS PUSH OUT YOUR TRACK 5MM EACH SIDE. THE BEARING IN THE HUB ASSEMBLY IS THICKER THAN THE HUB FROM THE 4-LUG.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Jdm-Beast »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
THE SPINDLE IS NOT THICKER BUT IT IS LONGER.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Ok follow that.... my misunderstanding (i hate putting out false information, this is what I was always led to believe)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Jdm-Beast »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
DISCARD THE WASHER FROM ORIGINAL SPINDLE BECAUSE THE MAZDA NUT WILL BE BIG ENOUGH
</TD></TR></TABLE>
but wait... this is where I get confused.

Which washer?
THE SPINDLE IS NOT THICKER BUT IT IS LONGER.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Ok follow that.... my misunderstanding (i hate putting out false information, this is what I was always led to believe)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Jdm-Beast »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
DISCARD THE WASHER FROM ORIGINAL SPINDLE BECAUSE THE MAZDA NUT WILL BE BIG ENOUGH
</TD></TR></TABLE>
but wait... this is where I get confused.

Which washer?






