Newman

Ok, not entirely stock, but running Tokico HP shocks (blues), Ground Control Civic spring rates (400/300), NO sway bars, and on stock CX brakes. Took my car out to Buttonwillow the other day for Track Day (great turn out) and took my car out on the course. I had Nitto drag radials up front, crap street tires in the rear. Now for how it handled....

It actually handled pretty good. I left the car in 3rd gear for 2 straight laps and never had to down shift (had to upshift a few times) but even on tight turns, I dropped down to 2000 rpms and it pulled right out in 3rd gear like a champ. The back end was loose but expected w/out sway bars (or weight... car is completed gutted) and there was a lot of chassis roll felt (soft suspension). I had a few experienced auto-x/road race drivers drive my car as I rode shotgun... wow, they drove my car to it's fullest potential and took the turns very smoothly. After they drove, all they could say was that IT WAS FAST! One said that you couldn't use the full potential of the motor because of my suspension setup but he really enjoyed driving my car (and drove it again later that afternoon). The other person (who drives a EG hatch w/ITR swap) was also very impressed and is now seriously considering getting a H22 and ditching his ITR swap... no joke either. He had doubts before with handling & drivability on a H22 Civic so I let him take my car out of for a spin. Granted it wasn't the best handling thing with the current suspension setup but he knew that and was very impressed on how the H22 felt - and all this guy does is auto-x and road race (no drag racing for either of these guys).

That just goes to show you some first hand experience with a H22 Civic, with almost stock suspension, on a road race course. With some suspension tuning, it can be a real killer on the track.

kwil666

im glad somebody finally posted about this. thanks for being so detailed im sure it will help a lot of people out.

Keith

Jonathan_ED3

now that's what i like to hear!
question if i may. what are you doing for axles and which mount kit are you using?

Jason kiDD

Hey glad to hear Newman. But now that you know this what kind of suspesion setup are you gonna do?? Good story though, I know once I get done with all the logistics of the swap then I can get some other ideas done as far as handling and braking..

BTW, started up the engine today and everything was purring loudly as ever without any downpipe.. lol My mounts do seem to be a little off in the rear and driver side. Was wondering if you had any fitment issues.. And when I say a little I mean that the rear mount has a small up tilt to the driver side.. Like the driver side is too high or something..??

hydroflip

nice newman...i cant wait...getting my suspension this week...should be fun when i get my swap in!

jeff652

iTrader: (1)

drool drooool droooooooooll

Where oh where is my Type S swap?~

Jackson

I got to ride shotgun in it as well . DP took it easy when I was in the car though. It kept saying how fast it was, over and over again. I am suprised mine and your stock brakes held up. I was a little worried at first.

jeff652

iTrader: (1)

You the dude that got my bolt!?!?

hahah

Jackson

Yeah man, I really appreciate that. Saved the rest of my day.

Jonathan_ED3

you're using the HCP kit right? is that the same kit newman's using?

Jason kiDD

Yeah..

Jonathan_ED3

cool...
the HCP kit sits closer to the firewall than most of the other kits, but doesn't require cutting/welding, right? well maybe cutting..but it's all 'bolt in', correct?
how badly does that mess up the alignment of the axles? i can't get anyone to answer that..they just say 'it's close'..but what is that supposed to mean? is it gonna bang into the strut fork if you hit a hard dip, or what's the problem with it?

Jason kiDD

Well I dont know about any axles issues because I dont have any axles yet.. The engine does sit real close to the firewall, but it clears both shock towers with ease and also the front.. It sits back nicely just like the stock ludes do and so far I dont forsee any clearance issues. When I get the axles though I will be able to tell you more..

And the only cutting you have to do is on the tranny mount bracket. You have to cut it in half and redrill new mount holes out of the pilot holes that are already there..

Instructions sucks *** though..

Jonathan_ED3

so that leaves some nice room up front eh? will it clear the stock a/c condenser easily you think? as far as HCP instructions, yeah i know how bad they suck...they sucked for my b-series EF mounts which is a pretty straight forward swap....i hate to see how they are for an H series Did i read in another post that it looks like your engine is sitting kinda crooked with the mounts?

Jason kiDD

Plenty of room up front. Matter of fact that was one of the first things my friends noticed and they were already making blow off valve noises by the end of the day..

And as far as the mounts the engine is actually very straight. On the rear mount however it looks like the actual mount bolt is slightly higher on the driver side than on the passenger side.. Very minor but I was just asking anways if this was a normal occurance..

When are you planning on starting your swap?? With what engine/body?

l

put these cliff notes in your sig. most people would really appreciate it... however id still rather have a b series swap

btw. what fast cars were at buttonwillow??

Jonathan_ED3

sweet...i dunno about me going turbo, but i want to see if i can rig the a/c system back up....i've got to have a/c.....i've seen people that have the powersteering pump hooked up, and i'm thinking if that can be runnin....i could surely have the a/c working with a lil riggin. are you plannin on turbo?

good....very good as soon as you find out about the axles post up or somethin..cuz i'm thinkin about the HCP kit too

as soon as i sell my EF to get some money. i've already got a '92 CX..right now i've got a b18b in it, so i can sell that for a lil somethin once i get started if i run into more problems than expected. So it'll be 5g/h22. about the engine...i don't know...everybody just says 'h22a', but from my research lately, i've noticed there's like 5 or 6 different h22's! which kind do most places sell that are like 2300-2600? i guess they're 92-96? i really don't know! that's what i've been wondering myself


[Modified by hot_EF, 9:38 PM 5/13/2002]

Jason kiDD

Well if you already have a b18c then my suggestion would be just to go ahead and turbo that one. The only reason why I continue to built up my engine is because I had it already to begin with, its a Type S, and already has clutch and flywheel, plus I know no one is going to want to pay me for what its worth...

But if you have a b18 already and you sell your EF then why bother selling the b18 also??

Depending on monitary situations I will go turbo later on in life..
And yeah there really is no difference between the USDM 92-96 and the 97+ ludes, except that older models have closed deck..

Jonathan_ED3

well i've got a b18b....i don't like it...my brothers automatic maxima still creams me. i'm not a fan of turbos, and i want to have a killer top end but still be quick on the street...hence the h22 instead of a b18c5...i'm talking about highway top end plus i want to be different.....everyone with a fast import around here is turbo.i don't like monitoring stuff like that, worrying about if you're engine's built enough to handle the boost etc. plust not many shops will warantee work done on a turbo car just because they assume you race the crap out of it....even just like a brake shop. anyway, i have my reasons...it's either gonna be b18c or h22..but the b18c i don't think is gonna cut it for me and what i'm lookin for. i'd have to sell the b18b probably beacuse i owe my mom almost 3 grand...so i'm not gonna have a hole heck of a lot to work with after selling just the EF.

Newman

Damn... been busy with finals coming up and graduation right around the corner, but to answer a few questions.....

I'm using custom axles built by HCP using 86-89 Integra axles w/Prelude inner joints. Works perfectly and I've had zero problems for over 6 months now, and I drive my car very hard on a daily basis.

I'm using the HCP mount kit (I should be... I work for them) and I sell them as well.... email me if interested.

Jason - put the rear mount on first and then the sides and it'll be perfect. By the look of your posts later on, seems like you got it figured out.

As for cutting, I did not have to cut anything. Even though the instructions say to cut the passenger frame mount a little bit, I didn't. I just jammed the mount in there and it's working perfectly. If I really wanted to, I can pull the motor out and stick a D-series motor back in and it'll bolt up just fine.

Jeff - check your Hybrid.jp PM

Jackson - my brakes suck... time to upgrade them (again) with my new knuckles (thanks Jeff )

The motor does sit very straight and even with minimal clearance by the firewall, the motor does not move, and there is no vibration with just 3 mounts on the EG chassis (I race my car hard all the time and it's never touched the firewall). Here are some picts of how the motor sits: http://www.JDMshit.com/h22a-clearance

Jason kiDD

Hey waddup Newman, I am happy with the setup so far.. The only I dont have is a radiator. What kind is that one you are using in the pic? Where can I get one, and how much does it cost??

Also how much are axles from HCP and why wouldnt considered as an option within the mount package..

Oh yeah and what shift level assembly are you using. I have to pick one up from the junkyard.


[Modified by Jason kiDD, 6:43 PM 5/13/2002]

Jonathan_ED3

i'm wondering the same things about the axles! are they available to the public or what?

Jonathan_ED3

Newman, in those pics, is that some kind of custom subframe or something? which car is that on..the EK or the EG?

[BOLD]EDIT[/BOLD]: I realized it's on the EK. is that part of the HCP kit and does it also use that piece with the EG?
bah i give up

[Modified by hot_EF, 12:45 AM 5/14/2002]


[Modified by hot_EF, 12:46 AM 5/14/2002]


[Modified by hot_EF, 12:46 AM 5/14/2002]

Katman

yeah that was a close call when you spun out in front of some of us ! hahha..felt like DAYS of Thunder for a sec!

I bet if you had some real race sus on there, it would greatly improve your setup. Any Tokiko's are wack imo, they feel like stock shocks to me. But its understandeable if someone can't afford the some way good sus....but it's totally worth it once you get real sus!

About the H22/civic hybriding. I was talkin to Jeff and he's all down to go H22 in his EG. But then I was thinkin about it.....Buttonwillow is a pretty easy going track for such a hybrid as yours. But what if you took this type of hybrid, to lets say, Streets of willow, where the conditions are more harsh, turns are sharper than BW/ more quick stopping turns etc.? That may pose as a problem for H22/civic hybrids with that extra weight along with other issues perhaps. I'm NOT hating or anything like that, I'm just thinking logically of the downside of going H22 in a civic. I'm sure bigger brakes would help resolve these issues though.

I'm just speculating on how different tracks have different conditions.

Anyone else care to shed light on this?


[Modified by Katman, 9:09 PM 5/13/2002]


[Modified by Katman, 9:09 PM 5/13/2002]

Jason kiDD

When doing any swap it should be in your best interest to upgrade brakes and suspension. Along with more speed you need things to conter balance them.. And also with LSD and/or traction bars I dont see where there would be a big problem with a h22/EG being competetive on any track..