magic hat #9

now on to the rear pads. carbotechandie suggested i use axxis ultimate pads versus stock, hopefully he'll chime in and give us a dissertation on the value of axxis pads over stock on the track.
pop off the rear wheel and you see this:

there is a dust shield covering the rear caliper, this must be removed or moved to get to the caliper bolts:

i remove the top bolt (10mm) near the "78" and then bend the bitch out of the way:

the rear caliper. we must remove it completely so take off both top & bottom bolts, 12mm i believe. make sure your parking brake is off or you ain't getting the caliper off:

it takes a few tugs, but the rear caliper will come off. note the different looking piston, we'll get to it shortly. be careful to support the caliper otherwise it will fall and damage your brake lines and parking brake cable:

the rear pads pop out of their brackets just like the front pads, there are 2 pads:

here is what we're using:

here is the funky looking piston, it works like a screw - press the brakes and the "screw" tightens against the brake pads and you stop. you can't simply press in the piston, it must turned clockwise to create clearance for the new pads.

it's hard to see, but i use a 1-1/2" wide grout spatula to turn the piston. be careful not to tear the rubber boot around the piston:

put everything back together like you found it. torque the caliper bolts to 16ft/lbs (i use 20ft/lbs, the lowest setting on my wrench). bend the dust shield back into place and bleed a little out of the caliper.

Willard

*note... make sure the "X" shape is at a 90 position.
That will allow the piston to mate with the little tab on the back side of the new pad (if the pad has a tab).

Will
-who has a set of rear pads that are worn at 30 deg. angle...

magic hat #9

damn, forgot about the little tabs. is there anyway to check without taking everything apart again? i already brought all my tools in (2nd floor) and it's raining out.

sackdz

tear, tear :*(

lol j/k, well if you're gonna do it, do it right

nfn15037

Nice pictures, but whats with all the how-tos today?

RATEDR

I run the Ultimates front and rear and they are awesome for daily, auto-x and *light* track use. They bite real well!

to andie at Carbotech as well.

magic hat #9

it's my day off, i work weekends so i'm off during the week. that, and i have my first ever track event this saturday at limerock!!! i'm a helpful ******* guy!

Kamil

Yeah, cuz the Helm's manual is so unclear about changing the brake pads.

Just kiddin there Monkey's_455, see ya on Friday... I might be crashing over at your place in case Matt hasn't told you yet.

Yeah, i got to get my car ready too... uhmm... oil, brake fluid, air in tires, gas... ok, done.

Willard

if the caliper was easy to put back on... the pads don't have the tab... or the groove was in the right place..

Will

magic hat #9

damn you, kamil! if you want to see a better sports car for under $40k, look at the ******* type r in my driveway, bioche!

haha, that's cool, you can crash here anytime. matt will be out of town so you can use his bed. i think davidnyc will be here too.

magic hat #9

thanks, *****. i just checked the set of axxis pads i got for lanceh, no tabs. also, the caliper slid back on easily. i'm in good shape!!! cool, cause i was about to head back out into the rain.

davidnyc

Send me an email, I will most likely crash at your place on Friday.

sackdz

Good to hear

Philbert

how do you "bleed" the brake fluid? why is this necessary? have you had any trouble not adding the molycote grease? i called my local dealer and the parts guy said they don't sell the grease alone... it comes with the stock pads. do i really need to try and track this stuff down?

thanks,
phil

Raz1983

its necessary cause air can be in the hose, and when you need to use your breaks bad.....woops? huh? no breaks? bang! ouch! byebye type r
anyway, its to take out the air out of your hose.

Leftlaner

Wow, you did us this service on your day off? Thanks for the brake tutorial and the pics. Just remember, not all of us are expert parts swappers.
Good luck this weekend, and have fun!!!!

magic hat #9

i very much enjoy working on the car, so i'm happy to post this stuff up.

i didn't put on any molycote, but i didn't have any problem with the brakes squealing. there was only a slight noise under hard braking during break-in.

comptechgsr2000

Directions were perfect! Thanks!

BudMan

If you don't get that tab in the groove properly, be prepared to wear your pads uneven & VERY quickly....

Nice job documenting - NOTE: it can be helpful to remove the master cylinder resevoir cap before trying to move the piston back.

Chris

Hmmm, I always have to remove the E-brake cotter-pin and cable..

Willard

jes... my first reply was to warn of that issue...

Will
-who learned the hard way...

Floyd

lol, I've been there too.

I also find it usefull to remove the bolt that holds the brake line in place on the lower suspension arm. I've never had to remove the e-brake line, but some times it is a bear getting the caliper off the rotor. Maybe that would help

comptechgsr2000

Does it matter if I use the high temp Honda brake grease or the orange goo stuff?

Type Goch

Orange Goo? Just use some off-the-shelf Anti-Seize

comptechgsr2000

Thanks!