phoenix_iii

Still hot on repairs for my 'new' CRX (90 dx). It has rear drums. I was curious if

a) did any CRX ever come with ABS? What about a compatible swap? Would also need the computer as well, how would it work, is it even feasible to think about? I don't even necessarily want them, just a hypothetical.

b) when people do rear disc conversions on their stock brakes, does the parking/emergency brake get axed? I know that certain CRX's came with full disc (and a functioning parking brake), so I'm sure it's do-able, but do the two conversions in the EF FAQ ignore the pbrake, or leave it functional? My understanding was the pbrake was a physical line to the rear drums.

thanks,

p3

CRX Toad

A) ABS I'm sure can be put on but would require some work.

B) No the parking brake is still used. You might have to get other e-brake cables. You drum e-brake cables will NOT work with the disc conversion.

phoenix_iii

Any parts details on the ebrake cable I would need? Have not seen it listed before. Additional info on ABS if anyone has it readily available...

CrXThang

I did a rear disc brake converison on my 91 HF you will need new e-brake cables from a CRX SI or a DA, unless the rear disc brake conversion I ordered my cables from http://www.fastbrakes.com your getting comes with them already also make sure you have the right booster, master cylinder, and the 4040 prop valve.

rsca_crx

you have pm

JokerTypeR

Did a rear swap on my 91 hatch. Ebrake cables came with the trailing arms etc from JHOT Imports in Augusta. They came clean for about 200 shipped (then again, I'm just a hop skip and a jump for shipping, and it was to a warehouse with a load-dock). Thing was nearly direct bolt in. You may want to replace the ebrake cables for personal safety, but I used the ones that came with mine from the 91 LS and they work great. 4040 came from Tyson. Get yourself some PB Blaster, two rear rubber (or SS braided if you want, I went rubber) brake lines for CRx w/rear disc (they will have to be special ordered if you go through autozone) and you're good to go. Other things you'll need are phillips screwdriver, wrenches, sockets, some beer doesn't hurt, and about 5 hours including bleeding and all if you don't have any help.

Civic138

hey i have the ABS computer and ABS prop valve thing if your wanting the go though with the swap

phoenix_iii

I think I'm okay on the ABS, but will be doing a rear disc conv. A forum member wants to swap my drums for their discs, but I wanted to know what to have on hand (didn't know about the booster or 4040 valve, or ordering new brakes lines from autozone, etc). I have the tools though.

JokerTypeR

What you'll need is:

A jack - It's a good idea to have two jackstands as well so it won't move, but you can unsafely do it with just a jack, if it's a good one with wheel chalks.
Tools - Phillips head, sockets, extensions...the usual.
PB Blaster - Comes in MAD handy for the rear hoses and prop valve.
Locking Pliers - It was the only thing I could get to work for getting the brake lines out of the prop valve...I wish you the best of luck, it's not an easy task.
EBrake Cables - Only neccessary if you want to make certain they're good. You never can be sure of the condition of a used part. as stated, I reused my old ones without a problem. just inspect them well. you'll have to order them from a dealer...order them from a 90-93 LS integra..it's direct bolt on.
Brake Fluid - You've probably got Dot 3 in there already, but it's not at all a bad idea to flush out all the fluid and change it over. Have a friend to help you with bleeding it. I went ahead and flushed it and put in Dot 4 since I drive semi-competitively. Bleeding IS important. It's also important to NOT mix brake fluids...brand or Dot rating.
Rear Brake Hoses - If you want to upgrade to SS braided...now is the time. But unless you're driving SERIOUSLY competitive, they won't be much better than regular rubber hoses. I'll explain why if you're curious. Go to Autozone, and you can pick them up for like 30bucks a piece (if I remember right). You're going to order them for 91 CRx WITH REAR DISCS. Make certain you specify this. They'll have to be ordered and come in about 3 days.

I think I covered everything with the rear disc swap. Make certain when you get your parts in...you eye-inspect the bearing, brake cables, pads, discs, and calipers. You MAY want to replace rotors and pads as well, but your old ones should be just fine for a while. Again, inspection is important. Also, check up on how to replace rear disc pads. I haven't done mine yet, but I know there's a different way to replace them from the front pads. It's always easier to replace parts when they're OFF of the car.

As for the brake booster, your old one will do just fine. You don't HAVE to upgrade the booster. With my setup, all I have done is the rear discs on Dot 4 fluid and the rest is good condition OEM. I'm still swapping the front brakes in the future, but the setup I have now I just ran hard on sunday and it was outstanding with no heat or brake fade through the mountain run.

While you're in there, also a good thing to check is to pull the net out of the brake fluid reservoir and make certain it's clean and clear. Just shake it...do NOT rinse it. Water is hell for brakes whether it's in the fluid, lines, or on the rotors.

While in there, you also may want to thoroughly eye-inspect the master cylinder and all other parts with the brakes to make certain there are no leaks. Fix 'em now if there are.

Finally, when you're bleeding, give it a good three cycles of bleeding with your friend in the driver's seat. Make certain to check the fluid level after every wheel bled. Once you've done the three cycles, drive around on 'em a few days, it'll still feel spongy. After a couple days, you don't need a friend or even a jack to bleed them (if you can reach through your wheels) just unscrew the bleeder til some fluid comes out. You'll see some bubbles. Just let the fluid run until it stops bubbling and/or there's a steady flow. Do this to cycle once every three days or so for about two weeks. This will make certain you've got all the air out of the lines.

If you have any questions, feel free to ask. Honda-Tech was my helping hand when I did my swap, and I hope I can pass on the favor.

Good luck.

JokerTypeR

PS-ABS sucks...just learn how to brake

Also, hunt down "Tyson" for help. The kid knows his ****.

Tyson

i know nothing.

id just try to convince you to keep the drums... meh.

thats going in the faq joker.

JokerTypeR

Haha, never got back to you on MY swap man. I did it and it works great. Thanks for the prop valve. I'll vouch you any day

oh yeah, correct me if wrong, the DA cables will go into a CRx as well, right? Or is it JUST the hatch? I'm thinking it's both, but I second guess myself sometimes.

Tyson

thats cool. glad you can share with us your experience.

JokerTypeR

Someone throw in there .02 on if those DA cables will directly bolt into a CRx. I know they went straight into my hatch, but I'm thinking now that I read somewhere they WOULDN'T fit the hatch. Someone please correct me if I'm wrong.

If no one corrects me, your best bet is to lookup the part numbers and see if they match.

uglyrex

da cables to long for a crx but fit great on a hatchback you can rig them but they need more straps you need to add to make them work

JokerTypeR

I was thinking I'd heard that. In that case, check out San Leandro Honda and order some cables from a rex with rear discs. I know the hoses will still work, though.

uglyrex

yep its just the cables a wee bit to long but still work i am loving mine!



also love the sprigs and kyb struts these cars are so awesome to drive

JokerTypeR

Agrd. I'm on KYB AGX...when I hit turns, it's hard for people to keep up. I had a badass T/A hold me, but he was ALL over the road. I stayed in my lane. Can't wait for the engine swap.

Also, if you plan to do bushings...do 'em now.

kid-honda

iTrader: (2)

Some guy a few years ago put ABS in his EF, I remember him showing pics and talking about it, it also had a full OBD 2 ITR swap with a 5 lug conversion on CRV steelies.

phoenix_iii

Great thread, glad it may make it to the faq.

rsca_crx

small edit: 4040 is not the prop valve you want if you are running the stock front calipers and changing to crx rear disks. you just want the later crx si prop valve that was designed for that setup.

and to the op, don't worry, i've got one of those for you too.

JokerTypeR

They say the 4040 isn't a good one to use...and they may be right. I put the 4040 in with dreams to do the EX swap immediately after the rear swap. Plans changed and I'm having to hold off on the front swap for a little bit. However, the 4040 is doing a GREAT job for braking evenly...however, I haven't spent track time with it, yet...just competitive driving.

However, on that small note, he IS correct. For stock front brakes and rear disc swaps, the 3540 is the one that's advised.

Tyson

actually the 2040 of the 90-91 crx si with small brake up front and discs in the rear would be the best with 13/16" mc.

3540 is big brakes up front, and drums in the rear like the EX. but that also considers the 15/16" mc.

maybe tho if you had the 15/16" mc, the 3540 makes sense too... its all so vague...

http://www.norcalcrx.org/tyson/brakepartslist.xls

JokerTypeR

hehe, and you say you don't know anything...

I'll check and see what MC I have. Unless you know it off hand, car has a stock MC, 1991 honda Civic hatch std

Tyson

its gotta be 13/16" then.