FAQ: 5th Gen 1994-1997
02-14-2006, 04:35 PM
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FAQ: 5th Gen 1994-1997
Well since We need a few more accord FAQ's, I thought I would start on my next FAQ...
1. What is a 5th gen Accord? The 5th gen Accord is considered to be the best accord out there in terms of looks, overall performance and reliability.
2. What engines came in this car?
All models except EX and V6
130HP 2.2L I4 non Vtec
EX and all station wagons
145HP 2.2L I4 Vtec motor
All V6 modesl (95-97)
170HP 2.7L cast iron V6
3. What body styles did the 5th gen come in?
5th gen accords came in 2 or 4 door cars and a station wagon
4. What can I do to make my car faster?
The best bang for the buck would be a H22a drive line swap. The next best would be H22a engine and the last would be a H22a trans swap. While you can do bolt on's they are low return in terms of HP/$
Another option would be Turbo F22 setup but I really don't know if it will be any cheaper by the time you pay for the kit, installation, and dyno tuning.
NOS is a good alternative if you are looking for WOT performance only and don't care if the car is slow when not using NOS
5. How long can I expect my 5th gen car to last with proper maint?
Well I have a 5th gen that was rebuilt from salvage at 60K and it has over 143K on it and everything still works on the car. I have had to replace a few things but overall, the car has been extremely reliable and will most likely go 70-100K more miles. I see ads in our paper with 5th gen cars with well over 200K on them being sold on a regular basis.
6. What brake upgrades can I do to my car?
You can swap in V6 brakes if you have 15" wheels or larger. You can also upgrade the rear drums to disk. The easiest way is just to swap the whole knucle assembly with everything attached to it.
7. I have V6 car what can I do to make it faster?
Short of an engine swap, you really cannot do much other than exhaust and CAI. There are very few aftermarket mods for the 5th gen V6 simply due to the fact that there were not that many of them compared to their I4 brothers.
One of the best thing you could do is a engine swap but that is a little more complicated because you will have to piggy back the ECU in order to get the car to run (Piggyback means you have to use 2 ECUs). Swapping in a J30a or J32a would work nicely as you would get 30HP or 50hp and drop about 150lbs in weight. I am not sure but I think the J30 will bolt right up to the trans and the trans can easily handle the extra power.
8. I have a LX can I use EX suspension parts?
You sure can. Also you can add the rear sway bar if you are good at drilling and taping the mounting holes.
9. I want to upgrade my brakes, what part should I do first?
The first thing I would do is upgrade your front brakes to the V6 parts. There is a catch though, you will need 15" rims or larger to successfully install the larger brakes. There are several advantages to upgrading the front brakes
A. shorter stopping distances
B. no more pressed on rotors
Personally I would not even bother changing out the rear brakes since 90% of the car's stopping power is provided by the front brakes and the cost of upgrading the rears will not be ofset by the minimal dencrease (if any) in stopping distance.
10. Why isn't my A/C cold like it used to be even though it is fully charged?
The #1 cause of this is a water valve that is either
A. Partially open (out of adjustment)
B. Rotted out allowing coolant to flow into the heat exchanger.
The problem is that there is no door that closes off the heater core when you move the selector to full cold like there is in most cars. My valve did not close all the way on my car so I bent my cable like this _||_ with a pair of needle nose pliars to shorten it up. Now I have no problems with my A/C not blowing cold.
11. What are some of the problems you have had with your car and what did you do to fix them?
First off my car was rebuilt from salvage in 2001 just before I bought it it had 60K on it Now it has 144,XXX K on it. Was it worth it? for $5K it was a bargain and has served me well. I still have the car and I drive it to work during the week when the traffic is bad and I drive m '98 on the weekend when there is no traffic (yeah V6 sucks when it comes to fuel economy) I am tring to sell it and hopefully I will get my asking price of $2K for it.
Some of the problems I have had were:
A. Improperly installed rear brakes- fixed by buying a spring kit and self adjuster for passenger rear side drum along with new shoes for both sides
B Busted lower ball joint on driver side- fixed by replacing joint
C. Outer CV joint boot clamp failure. fixed it with a new clamp and 3 weeks later the boot split. Repalced joint for $95 ( I wasn't about to try and get that axle nut off)
D. Recharged A/C twice- once when I got it 5 years ago and recharged again last summer.
E. New Radiator cap and T-stat
F. New exhaust after 10 years
G. Passenger driveshaft will need to be replaced some day as there is a slight clunking sound when you hit bumps and the Honda dealer said to just drive it until it breaks.
H. There is a rattle in the sunroof but after 12 years who cares, the roof works just fine and does not leak.
Modified by YeuEmMaiMai at 7:13 AM 4/3/2006
1. What is a 5th gen Accord? The 5th gen Accord is considered to be the best accord out there in terms of looks, overall performance and reliability.
2. What engines came in this car?
All models except EX and V6
130HP 2.2L I4 non Vtec
EX and all station wagons
145HP 2.2L I4 Vtec motor
All V6 modesl (95-97)
170HP 2.7L cast iron V6
3. What body styles did the 5th gen come in?
5th gen accords came in 2 or 4 door cars and a station wagon
4. What can I do to make my car faster?
The best bang for the buck would be a H22a drive line swap. The next best would be H22a engine and the last would be a H22a trans swap. While you can do bolt on's they are low return in terms of HP/$
Another option would be Turbo F22 setup but I really don't know if it will be any cheaper by the time you pay for the kit, installation, and dyno tuning.
NOS is a good alternative if you are looking for WOT performance only and don't care if the car is slow when not using NOS
5. How long can I expect my 5th gen car to last with proper maint?
Well I have a 5th gen that was rebuilt from salvage at 60K and it has over 143K on it and everything still works on the car. I have had to replace a few things but overall, the car has been extremely reliable and will most likely go 70-100K more miles. I see ads in our paper with 5th gen cars with well over 200K on them being sold on a regular basis.
6. What brake upgrades can I do to my car?
You can swap in V6 brakes if you have 15" wheels or larger. You can also upgrade the rear drums to disk. The easiest way is just to swap the whole knucle assembly with everything attached to it.
7. I have V6 car what can I do to make it faster?
Short of an engine swap, you really cannot do much other than exhaust and CAI. There are very few aftermarket mods for the 5th gen V6 simply due to the fact that there were not that many of them compared to their I4 brothers.
One of the best thing you could do is a engine swap but that is a little more complicated because you will have to piggy back the ECU in order to get the car to run (Piggyback means you have to use 2 ECUs). Swapping in a J30a or J32a would work nicely as you would get 30HP or 50hp and drop about 150lbs in weight. I am not sure but I think the J30 will bolt right up to the trans and the trans can easily handle the extra power.
8. I have a LX can I use EX suspension parts?
You sure can. Also you can add the rear sway bar if you are good at drilling and taping the mounting holes.
9. I want to upgrade my brakes, what part should I do first?
The first thing I would do is upgrade your front brakes to the V6 parts. There is a catch though, you will need 15" rims or larger to successfully install the larger brakes. There are several advantages to upgrading the front brakes
A. shorter stopping distances
B. no more pressed on rotors
Personally I would not even bother changing out the rear brakes since 90% of the car's stopping power is provided by the front brakes and the cost of upgrading the rears will not be ofset by the minimal dencrease (if any) in stopping distance.
10. Why isn't my A/C cold like it used to be even though it is fully charged?
The #1 cause of this is a water valve that is either
A. Partially open (out of adjustment)
B. Rotted out allowing coolant to flow into the heat exchanger.
The problem is that there is no door that closes off the heater core when you move the selector to full cold like there is in most cars. My valve did not close all the way on my car so I bent my cable like this _||_ with a pair of needle nose pliars to shorten it up. Now I have no problems with my A/C not blowing cold.
11. What are some of the problems you have had with your car and what did you do to fix them?
First off my car was rebuilt from salvage in 2001 just before I bought it it had 60K on it Now it has 144,XXX K on it. Was it worth it? for $5K it was a bargain and has served me well. I still have the car and I drive it to work during the week when the traffic is bad and I drive m '98 on the weekend when there is no traffic (yeah V6 sucks when it comes to fuel economy) I am tring to sell it and hopefully I will get my asking price of $2K for it.
Some of the problems I have had were:
A. Improperly installed rear brakes- fixed by buying a spring kit and self adjuster for passenger rear side drum along with new shoes for both sides
B Busted lower ball joint on driver side- fixed by replacing joint
C. Outer CV joint boot clamp failure. fixed it with a new clamp and 3 weeks later the boot split. Repalced joint for $95 ( I wasn't about to try and get that axle nut off)
D. Recharged A/C twice- once when I got it 5 years ago and recharged again last summer.
E. New Radiator cap and T-stat
F. New exhaust after 10 years
G. Passenger driveshaft will need to be replaced some day as there is a slight clunking sound when you hit bumps and the Honda dealer said to just drive it until it breaks.
H. There is a rattle in the sunroof but after 12 years who cares, the roof works just fine and does not leak.
Modified by YeuEmMaiMai at 7:13 AM 4/3/2006
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02-16-2006, 09:50 AM
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Re: FAQ: 5th Gen 1994-1997 (iam7head)
Station wagon only came as a 5 speed in 1994. afterwords they were all automatic 4 speeds
v6 uses a slightly different front end
-95 has same grill as ALL model 96-97's
-Longer Hood/Fenders, different engine bay layout
v6 uses a slightly different front end
-95 has same grill as ALL model 96-97's
-Longer Hood/Fenders, different engine bay layout
02-16-2006, 02:14 PM
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Re: FAQ: 5th Gen 1994-1997 (iam7head)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by iam7head »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">number 1 is pretty non-factual 
</TD></TR></TABLE>
No, it's not
</TD></TR></TABLE>No, it's not
02-16-2006, 02:55 PM
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Re: FAQ: 5th Gen 1994-1997 (YeuEmMaiMai)
I've had a 95 accord for 8 years now...very reliable if you can fix the lil stuff that breaks.
things I hate about the accord.
1. the windows are slow as ***** as it gets older. bad seals nevern keep the window in its track plus the cable system sucks...breaks easy. (only honda that uses this system other hondas use a scissor rail system)
2. the power door lock motors suck and the rubber stoppers inside rot and cause crazy sounding buzzing noise everytime the door locks or unlocks...sometimes they don't lock or unlock.
3. the hub over rotor set-up...makes rotor changing a mission. (once again...only honda that uses this stupid system)
4. damn car is too heavy...even with a H22A this thing is still slow.
things I hate about the accord.
1. the windows are slow as ***** as it gets older. bad seals nevern keep the window in its track plus the cable system sucks...breaks easy. (only honda that uses this system other hondas use a scissor rail system)
2. the power door lock motors suck and the rubber stoppers inside rot and cause crazy sounding buzzing noise everytime the door locks or unlocks...sometimes they don't lock or unlock.
3. the hub over rotor set-up...makes rotor changing a mission. (once again...only honda that uses this stupid system)
4. damn car is too heavy...even with a H22A this thing is still slow.
02-16-2006, 04:45 PM
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Re: FAQ: 5th Gen 1994-1997 (sinister2c)
I still got my car
a 1994 LX and although the windows are slow in the winter time, they still work. 2880 is not heavy my current car is 400lbs+ heavier and far less reliable....
a 1994 LX and although the windows are slow in the winter time, they still work. 2880 is not heavy my current car is 400lbs+ heavier and far less reliable....
02-22-2006, 02:21 PM
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I have a question. new to this kind of site, seeking some answers.
I have a 95 V6 accord. how can i make it faster? in plain terminology, because i don't know any of those words you used in the question on your FAQ sheet. lol.
another question, my transmition is slipping. i was wondering if i would be able to change the tranny from auto to manual on a v6? is so, how much would it cost?
I have a 95 V6 accord. how can i make it faster? in plain terminology, because i don't know any of those words you used in the question on your FAQ sheet. lol.
another question, my transmition is slipping. i was wondering if i would be able to change the tranny from auto to manual on a v6? is so, how much would it cost?
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02-22-2006, 03:01 PM
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Re: FAQ: 5th Gen 1994-1997 (YeuEmMaiMai)
"1. What is a 5th gen Accord? The 5th gen Accord is considered to be the best accord out there in terms of looks, overall performance and reliability. "
how do you know what gen you have?
how do you know what gen you have?
02-22-2006, 04:51 PM
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Re: FAQ: 5th Gen 1994-1997 (V6 Cylinder)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by V6 Cylinder »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">"1. What is a 5th gen Accord? The 5th gen Accord is considered to be the best accord out there in terms of looks, overall performance and reliability. "
how do you know what gen you have?
</TD></TR></TABLE>
read thread title
FAQ 5th gen 1994-97
how do you know what gen you have?
</TD></TR></TABLE>
read thread title
FAQ 5th gen 1994-97
02-23-2006, 04:22 PM
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Re: FAQ: 5th Gen 1994-1997 (civiclxboy)
low battery voltage, relay not engaging for starter, bad loose connection to starter. The humm you are hearing is the fuel pump
02-24-2006, 08:42 PM
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Re: FAQ: 5th Gen 1994-1997 (sinister2c)
I've heard that F22's "can take a beating" and H22's can't really hold that without internal engine work.
Personal opinion, I've owned my accord ( 97 EX 5sp 4dr) for about a year now, and have done a few mods to it, trying to keep it reliable, yet more powerful.
After installing an aluminum flywheel, stage 2 clutch, 3 aluminum pulleys ( no underdrive, all stock diameter from unorthodox) and a cam gear (still set a 0 degrees) I can not accept people saying that accords are slow.
It cost some money for the pulleys, but I think it was worth. Much better gas mileage overall, quicker, faster, it is a pleasure to drive it everyday. Car reaches higher speeds much quicker than before, gears pull a lot harder.
If you don't want to swap the engine and have all that to be done, just keep the F22 and do certain things.
When you remove weight from the crank, you gain HP... that's a fact. That let's more HP from the crank be delivered to the wheel, so you can notice the difference!
...if accords are slow... then new V8 cars are running "slow motion", I've been able to keep up with V8s and V6s at 150 mph. Sure that's not the right thing to be doing, but.... well.... it happens
Love accords, love Hondas!!
Personal opinion, I've owned my accord ( 97 EX 5sp 4dr) for about a year now, and have done a few mods to it, trying to keep it reliable, yet more powerful.
After installing an aluminum flywheel, stage 2 clutch, 3 aluminum pulleys ( no underdrive, all stock diameter from unorthodox) and a cam gear (still set a 0 degrees) I can not accept people saying that accords are slow.
It cost some money for the pulleys, but I think it was worth. Much better gas mileage overall, quicker, faster, it is a pleasure to drive it everyday. Car reaches higher speeds much quicker than before, gears pull a lot harder.
If you don't want to swap the engine and have all that to be done, just keep the F22 and do certain things.
When you remove weight from the crank, you gain HP... that's a fact. That let's more HP from the crank be delivered to the wheel, so you can notice the difference!
...if accords are slow... then new V8 cars are running "slow motion", I've been able to keep up with V8s and V6s at 150 mph. Sure that's not the right thing to be doing, but.... well.... it happens
Love accords, love Hondas!!
02-24-2006, 10:49 PM
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Re: FAQ: 5th Gen 1994-1997 (gianinline)
F22 internals are overdesigned and it is a lower compression engine compared to the H22 series. Lower compression engines can usually take more boost than a higher compression engine of the same displaemenet.
Honda built the 5th gen accord like a tank...it's built to last at least 200K plus with proper maintanence. There are several in the paper here with well over 200K on them last week and now they are all gone.
Honda built the 5th gen accord like a tank...it's built to last at least 200K plus with proper maintanence. There are several in the paper here with well over 200K on them last week and now they are all gone.
02-25-2006, 02:53 PM
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Re: (94accordsedan)
speed sensors are a common problem on all cars, not just accords. The ABS modulator does fail on these cars due to leaking seals and that can be easily repaired if you are compentent at dissassembly and reassembly.
02-26-2006, 03:50 PM
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My Lx accord has a sunroof that was installed by an outside company but was still sold from a honda dealer by my house. The roof no longer works because the cables have snapped, does anyone have a fix for this or know where I can get another roof?
02-26-2006, 05:17 PM
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Re: (BloodPressure)
take it to any sunroof repair shop. my roof is aftermarket and it is an ASC model they put a sticker in the glove box with the information about the roof on it.
02-26-2006, 06:08 PM
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Re: (94accordsedan)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 94accordsedan »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Common problems on the 94s. (Not sure about later models.)
ABS and Speed Sensor. </TD></TR></TABLE>
both happened to me
ABS and Speed Sensor. </TD></TR></TABLE>
both happened to me
03-04-2006, 01:53 PM
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Re: (Mindgame166)
It is up to you! You can make it fast if you spend some money on the F22, but you could swap a H22 and start building the horse power on that motor from 200hp and over. Full exhaust, intake, header and allow H22's to reach 235hp to 240hp (that's pretty damn good for an accord...)
I've heard of one here in south florida with 260 wheel HP with a F22 turbo, no internal mods... just turbo and "psi".... not sure how much psi though.
I've heard of one here in south florida with 260 wheel HP with a F22 turbo, no internal mods... just turbo and "psi".... not sure how much psi though.
03-05-2006, 09:52 PM
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Re: FAQ: 5th Gen 1994-1997 (YeuEmMaiMai)
nice write up.. i'd like to know where u got the info that 2.7 is cast iron...also where did u get the info abt a J's mite bolt up to a C's?
-thz
-thz
03-06-2006, 03:59 AM
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Re: FAQ: 5th Gen 1994-1997 (KhanhCord)
based upon having seen the engine and various sources on the net and the weight difference between a V6 and a I4 in the same trim indicated that it is cast iron. A 5th gen EX V6 weighs in at hefy 300Lbs more than a I4 EX.
There are serveral people who have done the swap and I stated I was not sure but I believe that the J30 will bolt right up (I believe that it shares the same mounting points as a J30 series)
There are serveral people who have done the swap and I stated I was not sure but I believe that the J30 will bolt right up (I believe that it shares the same mounting points as a J30 series)
03-06-2006, 12:38 PM
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Re: FAQ: 5th Gen 1994-1997 (YeuEmMaiMai)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by YeuEmMaiMai »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">based upon having seen the engine and various sources on the net and the weight difference between a V6 and a I4 in the same trim indicated that it is cast iron. A 5th gen EX V6 weighs in at hefy 300Lbs more than a I4 EX.
There are serveral people who have done the swap and I stated I was not sure but I believe that the J30 will bolt right up (I believe that it shares the same mounting points as a J30 series)</TD></TR></TABLE>
do u have alink to where it says cast iron tho? i'm just curious..cuz guessing that v6 is heavier than i4 is blah... bigger engine= heavier engine thats not a surprise
also do u happen to know who has done the j swap? and from wut forum so that i can get more info? the J30 do have hthe same mounts, however, i just nvr heard of any1 done the swap and would like to get more info.. any info u can supply me with, that would be awesome ..thanks
There are serveral people who have done the swap and I stated I was not sure but I believe that the J30 will bolt right up (I believe that it shares the same mounting points as a J30 series)</TD></TR></TABLE>
do u have alink to where it says cast iron tho? i'm just curious..cuz guessing that v6 is heavier than i4 is blah... bigger engine= heavier engine thats not a surprise
also do u happen to know who has done the j swap? and from wut forum so that i can get more info? the J30 do have hthe same mounts, however, i just nvr heard of any1 done the swap and would like to get more info.. any info u can supply me with, that would be awesome ..thanks
03-06-2006, 01:47 PM
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Re: FAQ: 5th Gen 1994-1997 (KhanhCord)
Honda dealer, Motor Trend, car and driver, road and track reviews, and having seen the engine in person. (yes a magnet sticks to the block)