j-spec_cc2

whats good everyone.

i finished installing my custom 3" cold air intake last night on my 94 vigor. took about an hour. since i dont own a digital camera (yet) the only pics i'll be able to post is pics that i'll take from my phone, so be forwarned that the picture quality might suck. i'm at work right now, but i'll go outside a little later to take a couple pics. if you want, i can put up a simple 'How To' so that it can take you even less time than me.

j-spec_cc2

ok, so i went outside to take a couple pics w/ my phone and low and behold....its RAINING. i'll try and get some pics up later this evening.

V-Thang

nice!!! im really interested in the "How To"

Redline96LX

bump im waitin.

j-spec_cc2

ok guys, sorry about the wait but i was sick this weekend so i'm still trying to get over it.

well, here is my attempt on a 'How-To' install of a custom 3" cold air intake for an Acura Vigor. this setup might also work for the 2.5 TL.

remember, this write-up was done after i did the install, so some of the numbers might be a bit shakey.

<U>DISCLAIMER:</U>
I assume no liability for your vehicle after the installation of this cold air intake.

<U>TOOLS NEEDED</U>
Philips head screw driver
10mm socket (and also possibly a 12mm)
a socket wrench (duh... )
2 socket wrench extensions (a short one and one a little longer than the short one)
car jack and jackstand
lug nut remover
some elbow grease

<U>PARTS NEEDED</U>
3" 90 degree elbow (purchased from eBay or can have a shop make one)
94 GS-R short ram intake (purchased from eBay)
3" bypass valve (i bought a generic one from eBay, but i think i recommend the AEM unit
2' 1/2" hose (purchased from local auto parts store)
4 1/2" hose clamps (purchased from local auto parts store)
2 3" hose clamps (purchased from local auto parts store, but not necessary if you purchase the bypass valve)

<U>HOW-TO</U>
First, obviously, you will need to remove the old intake system. I recommend starting at the top. To do so, unclip the top of the air box from the bottom. Then, loosen the clamp that attaches the intake to the valve cover. After that is complete, remove the clamp that attaches the intake to the throttle body. Be sure to put this clamp in a good place, as you will reuse it later. Next, you will need to remove the lower portion of the air box. There are about 2 or 3 10MM bolts that hold the lower air box to the frame. Unscrew those and the lower air box will pull right out.

Secondly, you will need to remove the resonator box that is under the car. This can be a little tricky. From what I have been told, you can do this one of 2 ways. Either by removing the front bumper (which is what one of my boys did w/ his Vigor) or you can go the easy route and just remove the driver side wheel (which is what i did). After you loosen the lug nuts, jack the car up so that the wheel can be taken off.
<U>***NOTE: IT IS ALWAYS RECOMMENDED TO USE JACKSTANDS WHEN DOING WORK UNDER A CAR.</U>

After removing the wheel, the next item of business is that pesky wheel well. While underneath the car, towards the front of the car there will be about 2 bolts holding the plastic. Remove those bolts. Slide back a little and you will see a thin piece of plastic hanging straight down with 2 bolts next to it (the plastic piece is between the wheel well and the bolts). Only one of those bolts has to be removed to move the wheel well out of the way, but unfortunately I cannot remember exactly which one off the top of my head, but it is kind of obvious. After that bolt is removed, unscrew the retaining clips so that you can 'fold' the wheel well out of the way to give you enough room to get to the resonator box.

Now that you have clear access to the resonator box, here comes the fun part. I believe there are only 2 bolts holding the resonator box to the frame rail. The bolt on the front is very easy to get to (because its in the front). The one towards the back, though, can be a little pain because the piece that attaches the resonator box to the air box is obstructing your path. If you have slender hands, you might be able to get it back there, but if not, then you'll have to use some elbow grease to muscle the connection piece out of the way. If you remove the first bolt first, then getting the connection piece out of the way shouldn't be too much of a problem. Once you get that blot off, the resonator box just drops out of place and you're ready to put on the new intake.

Installation of the intake is relatively straight forward.

First, take the short ram intake with the nipple side up and slide the pipe down the open hole (roflmao...no sexual connotations intended). Next, attach the filter to the bottom portion of the intake pipe and secure clamp.

Next, attach the 3"-2.5" coupling to the 3" elbow and using the supplied 3" clamp and secure. Then, attach it to the throttle body and secure using the original throttle body clamp (told you to put it in a good place). Now, if you purchased the bypass valve, you will use it to connect the elbow to the short ram.
<U>***NOTE: WHEN I TRIED TO USE MINE, IT BROKE. I'M THINKING IT IS BECAUSE OF HOW THE GENERIC ONE IS MADE AND I DONT THINK THE AEM UNIT IS MADE IN THE SAME WAY. IF YOU GET IT TO WORK, PLEASE POST UP A PIC SO I CAN SEE HOW IT LOOKS. THX.</U>

<U>***NOTE: IF YOU CHOOSE NOT TO PURCHASE THE BYPASS VALVE AND LOOKS DONT REALLY MATTER TO YOU TOO MUCH, YOU DON'T NEED TO PURCHASE A 3" COUPLER THAT MATCHES THE COLOR OF YOUR OTHERS. THE FACTORY SYSTEM HAS A PIECE THAT YOU CAN USE.</U> In this case you will need to use the 2 3" clamps that you purchased. The piece can be found at the part where the bottom portion of the air box connects the the top portion of the connection piece for the resonator box (I hope that makes sense to you, but you should be able to tell what piece I'm talking about).

After securing either the bypass valve or the 3" coupler with the hose clamps, you will want to measure the length from the nipple on the short ram intake to the nipple on the hard plastic piece that connects to the valve cover. Cut the 1/2" tubing accordingly and secure with hose clamps. There is a small section of hose that connects the hard piece of plastic to the valve cover. Mine had a little tear in it. If you are uncertain of the wear of this piece, now is a good time to change it ( it'll take like 35 sec, so you might was well).

Next, disconnect the negative terminal of the battery and get ready to install the wheel well.

Installation of the wheel well is just the reverse order of removal.
<U>***NOTE: WHEN PUTTING THE WHEEL WELL BACK ON, THE BOTTOM OF THE FILTER WILL BE TOUCHING THE WHEEL WELL. ONCE YOU SCREW IT ON TIGHT ENOUGH, DONT WORRY ABOUT IT.</U>

Once you get the wheel well back on, put on your tire and tighten the lug nuts.
<U>***NOTE: AGAIN I MUST STATE THAT IF YOU ARE DUMB ENOUGH TO NOT TIGHTEN YOU WEEL TIGHT ENOUGH, I AM NOT RESPONSIBLE IF YOUR WHEEL FALLS OFF WHILE RIDING DOWN THE HIGHWAY.</U>

Before you begin cleaning up, reconnect the negative terminal. Start the car and let the car idle while you clean up (appx. 5-10 minutes). What this does is it allows your ECU to 'learn' about your new intake. DO NOT REV YOUR ENGINE DURING THIS TIME!!!!

Once you've let the engine idle long enough, you can hop in and go for a ride.

I don't know exactly what the wheel horsepower gain is, but from my 'butt dyno' it feels like it pulls pretty good. In second gear, I can now get up to about 65 MPH as opossed to the previous 60 MPH before the intake. You should feel a little surge of power at WOT at around 5K RPM.

---I do have some pictures that I took with my phone and put them on my T-Mobile site, but i dont know how to get them on here. If someone could help me out, I will post up some pics thanks.

---Also, this is my first write up, so I apologize if it is not up to par.

j-spec_cc2

can anyone help me post these pics please...

tegG2

use http://www.photobucket.com

j-spec_cc2

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tegG2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">use http://www.photobucket.com </TD></TR></TABLE>

thanks for your help.

**Again, i apologize for the shitty photo quality.


This is a shot of the engine bay


This is a shot of the CAI itself.


...And this is a shot of the factory 3" hole that i was talking about.