chestnut_55

hey i searched already for details with the rear camber washer trick. im going to do the trick to correct the camber when i drop my car next week. I have heard you can use stock bolts and no more than 3 washers. i believe i am going to get longer bolts but i have yet to find a standard or metric thickness for which washers to use. I have only seen replies that state to use 2 or 3. anyone have any help? seems this question has been asked quite a bit but no one has replied with an answer yet. Thanks.

iam7head

washer comes with different thickiness and it varys quite dramatically.

my one of my three washer can be thicker than all three of your combined.

the most important thing you need to do is to get SAE grade bolt, those cheaper zinc homedepot bolt and washer might look the same but they will not hold the torque required to seat the bolt properly.

SAE/metric auto-grade bolt and other related item can be found in various place like OSH, advanceautopart, etc.

ask for grade 8 longer bolt and washer, it's gonna sucks when you snap your bolt on the highway going 80.

oh, did i mention do not run stock bolt?

edit: sorry, i answered your question with another question

chestnut_55

i understand that different washers have different thicknesses. i was trying to see if anyone knew of an exact measurement for their washers if their camber turned out in an acceptable range.

I am thinking of using 2 thicker washers to adjust the camber greatly, and then use thinner washers of the same grade to somewhat "fine tune" the alignment until the camber is a close to perfect as possible. sound about right?

P_Adams

Rather than putting yourself thru He..l trying to scare up flat washers of varying thicknesses, why not entertain using alignment shims? They are in the shape of a horseshoe, come in a selection of different thicknesses and will slide over a bolt 7/16 thick.
I've used them for RWD front end alignments, door adjustments, window channel adjustments and a wide variety of different uses.

P

iam7head

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by P_Adams &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Rather than putting yourself thru He..l trying to scare up flat washers of varying thicknesses, why not entertain using alignment shims? They are in the shape of a horseshoe, come in a selection of different thicknesses and will slide over a bolt 7/16 thick.
I've used them for RWD front end alignments, door adjustments, window channel adjustments and a wide variety of different uses.

P</TD></TR></TABLE>

man, i wish i still have the picture of the diy racing seat mount in a killer supra. So that guy got some expensive racing seat and he cheaped out by using 20+ washers and bolt to make his own mounting bracket

and to mr. nut, you might want to post how low and what spring are you using

jb.

this should help: https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1257911

chestnut_55

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by iam7head &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you might want to post how low and what spring are you using</TD></TR></TABLE>

I do have listed in my sig that i am using Ground Control Coilovers. I plan to drop 1.5-2.0"

chestnut_55

Ok, i have yet been able to locate the right bolts to do the rear camber trick. I am also considering two options at this point. (1.) alignment shims instead of washers, and (2.) since i have already invested a good bit in the suspension, i am now considering the adjustable Ingalls rear upper control arm. The upper arm will give me the ability to tune the alignment to perfect camber and also the ability to drop and raise the car with much less hassle than the washer trick. I do hate to spend the extra money but i will only do it if i get any good feedback on the adjustable upper arm. Can anyone give me some insight to my options and any feeback on the 2nd option. I have heard mixed things on the reliability of the arm but im not positive.

jb.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jb. &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">To start off, I did this on a 95 accord ex 4dr lowered on Apexi WS coilovers. Use at your own risk. This is a fairly easy fix for your rear camber.
Here are the materials needed: 4 M10 x 1.25 x 50mm long bolts. Use atleast grade 8 if not higher. The grade 8s can be bought at advanced auto, but you have to ask for them. You will also need washers. I used smaller washers to fine tune it. The washers I used were SAE 3/8" (9,5 mm). I used 7 washers on each bolt, which fixed ~-2.15 and ~-2.06 on the rear. It took about 3 to take out a degree in camber. The stock bolts can take up to 3 on each bolt, I would not go any farther than that. Those are the new washers and the old small inadequate bolt.

Here goes:

1. Jack up the rear of your car and support with jack stands or two jacks. Make sure it is stable as the bolts my need a little persuasion.
2. Remove on wheel and you should see the bolts as pictured



4. Take them out and put the washers on the other side of the are against the body to push out the wheel. This will take two hands, one to hold the washers, and one to feed the bolt through.


5. Tighten the bolts back by hand pretty tight, replace the wheel, repeat on the other side, and then TAKE IT TO GET ALIGNED!!

Hope that helps everyone


Modified by jbkiksass69 at 9:06 PM 11/7/2005</TD></TR></TABLE>

I say what size bolts you need, as well as washers, near the top

tonezilla

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">oh, did i mention do not run stock bolt?</TD></TR></TABLE>

why cant you use the stock bolt ? i used it and it fit fine . but i guess i am a little worried now, will it eventually snap if i keep riding with it on ? i got the ingalls camber kit and they gave me the rear bolts and washers . on each side, i used three washers and one of the ingalls bolts and one of the stock honda bolts on the other because the other bolt would not tighten all the way down .