Rod Bearings Photos, Please, need opnions.
12-23-2005, 03:19 PM
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Rod Bearings Photos, Please, need opnions.
Hi All, I just finish rebuild my engine, let the oil light goes off, and started my engine, everythings fine. Let it idle until reach normal temperature, and went the 1st drive, i pushed it hard, everythings fine. When about 5miles of break in, the oil lights up. I turned off the engine, and took it back to garage. I just take off the oil pan and the first thing i saw, the 2 and 3 rods are blue color(high temp). I took some pics, and like to know from u, what could be the cause... I'm going to open the engine later(have no time now...) But i'd like to hear some opnions. Very Thanks....
Specs:
B16a, 81.5mm 9.1cr Arias Pistons, Eagle Rods.
The clearances are OK. Every detail was taken. The oil pump wasn't changed. But before the build, everything was OK.
Thanks...
Bottom Rod Bearing
Upper Rod Bearing
Bottom Bearing Close-up
Upper Bearing Close-Up
Specs:
B16a, 81.5mm 9.1cr Arias Pistons, Eagle Rods.
The clearances are OK. Every detail was taken. The oil pump wasn't changed. But before the build, everything was OK.
Thanks...
Bottom Rod Bearing
Upper Rod Bearing
Bottom Bearing Close-up
Upper Bearing Close-Up
12-23-2005, 03:30 PM
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Re: Rod Bearings Photos, Please, need opnions. (rikawa)
Are you saying you rebuilt you engine and you didn't do a "Break-In" process, I'm not real sure about those bearings but I do know when a rebuild takes place there is a peroid of time that you break in the internal components, by geting on it hard after you first rebuild it, your not giving the engine time to oil everthing.
Edit: How do you do a rebuild and not replace the oil pump? Since I have a feeling you will be re-rebuilding this thing, please replace your oil pump.
Edit: How do you do a rebuild and not replace the oil pump? Since I have a feeling you will be re-rebuilding this thing, please replace your oil pump.
12-23-2005, 04:29 PM
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Re: Rod Bearings Photos, Please, need opnions. (B18C1CYA)
Definitely a lack of lubrication. How do the mains look? What was your oil pressure at start-up?
12-23-2005, 04:34 PM
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Re: Rod Bearings Photos, Please, need opnions. (earl)
good point Earl , never even thought about the mains , if you had bad oil pressure then they are most likely trashed also seeing how the oil flows from the mains through the crank and then to the rods,
12-23-2005, 05:00 PM
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Re: Rod Bearings Photos, Please, need opnions. (BlueLude94)
what were ur clearances set 2?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BlueLude94 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Are you saying you rebuilt you engine and you didn't do a "Break-In" process, I'm not real sure about those bearings but I do know when a rebuild takes place there is a peroid of time that you break in the internal components, by geting on it hard after you first rebuild it, your not giving the engine time to oil everthing.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
are you sure about that? that a "break-in" is NEEDED?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BlueLude94 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Are you saying you rebuilt you engine and you didn't do a "Break-In" process, I'm not real sure about those bearings but I do know when a rebuild takes place there is a peroid of time that you break in the internal components, by geting on it hard after you first rebuild it, your not giving the engine time to oil everthing.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
are you sure about that? that a "break-in" is NEEDED?
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12-23-2005, 05:10 PM
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Re: Rod Bearings Photos, Please, need opnions. (BlueLude94)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BlueLude94 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Are you saying you rebuilt you engine and you didn't do a "Break-In" process, I'm not real sure about those bearings but I do know when a rebuild takes place there is a peroid of time that you break in the internal components, by geting on it hard after you first rebuild it, your not giving the engine time to oil everthing.
Edit: How do you do a rebuild and not replace the oil pump? Since I have a feeling you will be re-rebuilding this thing, please replace your oil pump.</TD></TR></TABLE>
The only time the crank should EVER possibly touch ANY journal bearing is upon startup in rare cases (sitting for a long time). The crank shouldn't ever touch the bearings or they'll look like they do above. Because of this, the bearings require NO break-in. The break-in period is to seat the piston rings on the cylinder walls which ARE a wear item.
Edit: How do you do a rebuild and not replace the oil pump? Since I have a feeling you will be re-rebuilding this thing, please replace your oil pump.</TD></TR></TABLE>
The only time the crank should EVER possibly touch ANY journal bearing is upon startup in rare cases (sitting for a long time). The crank shouldn't ever touch the bearings or they'll look like they do above. Because of this, the bearings require NO break-in. The break-in period is to seat the piston rings on the cylinder walls which ARE a wear item.
12-23-2005, 05:16 PM
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Re: Rod Bearings Photos, Please, need opnions. (rikawa)
I think your oil light came on from the spun bearing. if you oil pump wasnt working right it would have thrown an low oil pressure light from first start up.
You might be able to re use the rods and crank, Id just have them checked out just incase. Those bearings are soft and if its a minor spun bearing like yours, It'll still be ok and in spec. Did you do step your TQ sets to what is called for?
hearing that this is a B16 you prolly took it up pretty high in RPMs. you shouldnt do this because things are running a "lil" hotter than normal and those higher loads and RPMS can cause the bearing to heat up and stick and spin.
Just check to make sure you didnt mess anything up, buy some new bearings and try again buy dont act like a child over the next break in. Fun will come AFTER the break in, if done correctly. If you do it right, You could be ready for boost and tunning in as little as 50-100 miles.
Next time try what i do... 5 minute rule..
Before startup:
No spark plugs in, ECU fuse removed, WOT, Crank until oil light goes off for 2-4 seconds.
first start up:
Let Idle for ONLY 5 minutes while looking for leaks ... coolant and oil. Let it get up on temp... watching, lookin and listening to things that you may have messed up on. Turn off after or before the 5 minutes.
Check oil. Let cool COMPLETELY.
2nd startup:
Take the car out somewhere near by just incase you break down. Keep in mind that you need to be back in 5 MINUTES or less for the cool down. Drive the car around like your a Grandmah... listen, smell and look for thens that might be going wrong. Return back and turn the car off.
CHeck oil + Leaks.... Let cool COMPLETELY
3rd start up:
Same as Before, remember 5 MINUTES!! go out to a open stretch where you can act like a Ricer for a lil bit... when you get there do this... Star in 2nd gear at around 2,000 rpm's and revv it out to around 5500 at WOT, then release the gas and let the car slow down on its own w/ the engine drawing vacuum. when it gets back down to 2,000rpms again gag it again to 5500-6000. repeat this but ONLY go to about 6000 rpms max. Do this 12 times and return back to your garage or home. Turn the car off.
Check oil + Leaks.... Let cool COMPLETELY
4th start up:
Do the exact same thing as before but start at 3,000 and rev to 7000 then let it slow down to about 2,000 and repeat until you do it 12 times total. Return home.
Check oil + Leaks... **DO COMPRESSION CHECK**
while engine is still warm, pull plugs, ecu fuse and do each cylinder twice. Dont forget to do it at WOT also.
Just check to make sure your rings are seating correctly, make sure your compression is around what it should be for your compression ratio your running.
After you let the car cool down COMPLETELY ... change your oil AND oil filter.
Go out on short trips at around 10-15 minute each, makeing sure you let it have a COMPLETE cool down each time. When your maken these trips, dont run it at a constant RPM; exampe, interstate driving. Do town driving where you will have constant RPM changes and load changes. The differnt RPM changes and loads will help break in the bottomend bearings correctly. Load is also a great plus for breaking in the rings. Remember to keep your trips short and let the engine cool completely each trip.
The reason I say, keep the trips around 5 minutes at first, then around 10-15 after that first oil change is because... i said so. JK, Its because your engine is running at higher temps than normal, and like we all know (I hope) is that heat breaks down the protection of the oil but it also will cause the oil to "glaze" your cylinder walls. If your Cylinder walls become "glazed" than that means break in is "OVER"... So You need to make sure your motor is completly to spec before this happens. This will help your engine last longer, have better compression, consume less oil and all that stuff. So these "small" sessions are VERY important to a proper break in.
The reason I say, Floor it like your a ricer , back and forth with the RPMS is because I said so also...
jk... Its because it'll be a good work out for breakin in the bearings + MAINLY for the rings. When your adding that load on the engine It'll press the rings outwards into the cylinder walls groving a seal for your rings. This is the best way to seat rings, and most manuals will back me up w/ that theory.
Just remember this too:
Oil change +oil filter after your first 20-30 total minutes of first start up
Oil change + oilfilter after 200-300miles easy/moderate driving... no speed racer 10,000rpms on start up
My car was up on compression, 210 across after 50 miles
After a street tune for part throttle with boost, I broke in the new turbo until i was at 300 miles. Then we street tuned it on the way to the dyno, then dyno tuned. Made 365.4 whp and 273.8 ftlbs on 10psi. Next day ran a 11.50 @ 125 on BFG's runnin outta gear... still just as fast just needs a twin disk, 1000cc injectors and 3bar tunning for some serious power
Good Luck... Hope that helps????
Merry Christmas everyone
You might be able to re use the rods and crank, Id just have them checked out just incase. Those bearings are soft and if its a minor spun bearing like yours, It'll still be ok and in spec. Did you do step your TQ sets to what is called for?
hearing that this is a B16 you prolly took it up pretty high in RPMs. you shouldnt do this because things are running a "lil" hotter than normal and those higher loads and RPMS can cause the bearing to heat up and stick and spin.
Just check to make sure you didnt mess anything up, buy some new bearings and try again buy dont act like a child over the next break in. Fun will come AFTER the break in, if done correctly. If you do it right, You could be ready for boost and tunning in as little as 50-100 miles.
Next time try what i do... 5 minute rule..
Before startup:
No spark plugs in, ECU fuse removed, WOT, Crank until oil light goes off for 2-4 seconds.
first start up:
Let Idle for ONLY 5 minutes while looking for leaks ... coolant and oil. Let it get up on temp... watching, lookin and listening to things that you may have messed up on. Turn off after or before the 5 minutes.
Check oil. Let cool COMPLETELY.
2nd startup:
Take the car out somewhere near by just incase you break down. Keep in mind that you need to be back in 5 MINUTES or less for the cool down. Drive the car around like your a Grandmah... listen, smell and look for thens that might be going wrong. Return back and turn the car off.
CHeck oil + Leaks.... Let cool COMPLETELY
3rd start up:
Same as Before, remember 5 MINUTES!! go out to a open stretch where you can act like a Ricer for a lil bit... when you get there do this... Star in 2nd gear at around 2,000 rpm's and revv it out to around 5500 at WOT, then release the gas and let the car slow down on its own w/ the engine drawing vacuum. when it gets back down to 2,000rpms again gag it again to 5500-6000. repeat this but ONLY go to about 6000 rpms max. Do this 12 times and return back to your garage or home. Turn the car off.
Check oil + Leaks.... Let cool COMPLETELY
4th start up:
Do the exact same thing as before but start at 3,000 and rev to 7000 then let it slow down to about 2,000 and repeat until you do it 12 times total. Return home.
Check oil + Leaks... **DO COMPRESSION CHECK**
while engine is still warm, pull plugs, ecu fuse and do each cylinder twice. Dont forget to do it at WOT also.
Just check to make sure your rings are seating correctly, make sure your compression is around what it should be for your compression ratio your running.
After you let the car cool down COMPLETELY ... change your oil AND oil filter.
Go out on short trips at around 10-15 minute each, makeing sure you let it have a COMPLETE cool down each time. When your maken these trips, dont run it at a constant RPM; exampe, interstate driving. Do town driving where you will have constant RPM changes and load changes. The differnt RPM changes and loads will help break in the bottomend bearings correctly. Load is also a great plus for breaking in the rings. Remember to keep your trips short and let the engine cool completely each trip.
The reason I say, keep the trips around 5 minutes at first, then around 10-15 after that first oil change is because... i said so. JK, Its because your engine is running at higher temps than normal, and like we all know (I hope) is that heat breaks down the protection of the oil but it also will cause the oil to "glaze" your cylinder walls. If your Cylinder walls become "glazed" than that means break in is "OVER"... So You need to make sure your motor is completly to spec before this happens. This will help your engine last longer, have better compression, consume less oil and all that stuff. So these "small" sessions are VERY important to a proper break in.
The reason I say, Floor it like your a ricer , back and forth with the RPMS is because I said so also...
jk... Its because it'll be a good work out for breakin in the bearings + MAINLY for the rings. When your adding that load on the engine It'll press the rings outwards into the cylinder walls groving a seal for your rings. This is the best way to seat rings, and most manuals will back me up w/ that theory.Just remember this too:
Oil change +oil filter after your first 20-30 total minutes of first start up
Oil change + oilfilter after 200-300miles easy/moderate driving... no speed racer 10,000rpms on start up
My car was up on compression, 210 across after 50 miles
After a street tune for part throttle with boost, I broke in the new turbo until i was at 300 miles. Then we street tuned it on the way to the dyno, then dyno tuned. Made 365.4 whp and 273.8 ftlbs on 10psi. Next day ran a 11.50 @ 125 on BFG's runnin outta gear... still just as fast
just needs a twin disk, 1000cc injectors and 3bar tunning for some serious power Good Luck... Hope that helps????
Merry Christmas everyone
12-23-2005, 05:39 PM
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Re: Rod Bearings Photos, Please, need opnions. (bigTom)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by bigTom »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">what were ur clearances set 2? </TD></TR></TABLE>
Hi, the clearances are:
Rods: .055mm
Mains: .040mm
Hi, the clearances are:
Rods: .055mm
Mains: .040mm
12-23-2005, 05:44 PM
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Re: Rod Bearings Photos, Please, need opnions. (rikawa)
well i already know the answer, you need new Bearings, maybe seals, and maybe crank
Look at the pictures....
Look at the pictures....
12-23-2005, 05:51 PM
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Re: (JDMs1eeper)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JDMs1eeper »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Did you do step your TQ sets to what is called for?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yeah. 43ft for the rods and the oem torq for the mains.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JDMs1eeper »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">hearing that this is a B16 you prolly took it up pretty high in RPMs. you shouldnt do this because things are running a "lil" hotter than normal and those higher loads and RPMS can cause the bearing to heat up and stick and spin.
Just check to make sure you didnt mess anything up, buy some new bearings and try again buy dont act like a child over the next break in. Fun will come AFTER the break in, if done correctly. If you do it right, You could be ready for boost and tunning in as little as 50-100 miles.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I tried the Motorman method of Hard break in. Some friends of mine, did that too, and got very nice results, but i didn't. Honestly, I don't know if it was a hard break in problem, after we open the the hole engine, i think i'll know....
Thanks for the 5min method, i'll think on it next time.
Now i need to know what a i'll be able tu re-use... Things here in Brazil are very hard and very expensive to buy...
Sorry for my bad english.
Thanks all for the reply!
Yeah. 43ft for the rods and the oem torq for the mains.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JDMs1eeper »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">hearing that this is a B16 you prolly took it up pretty high in RPMs. you shouldnt do this because things are running a "lil" hotter than normal and those higher loads and RPMS can cause the bearing to heat up and stick and spin.
Just check to make sure you didnt mess anything up, buy some new bearings and try again buy dont act like a child over the next break in. Fun will come AFTER the break in, if done correctly. If you do it right, You could be ready for boost and tunning in as little as 50-100 miles.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I tried the Motorman method of Hard break in. Some friends of mine, did that too, and got very nice results, but i didn't. Honestly, I don't know if it was a hard break in problem, after we open the the hole engine, i think i'll know....
Thanks for the 5min method, i'll think on it next time.
Now i need to know what a i'll be able tu re-use... Things here in Brazil are very hard and very expensive to buy...
Sorry for my bad english.
Thanks all for the reply!
12-23-2005, 05:51 PM
#15
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Re: Rod Bearings Photos, Please, need opnions. (rikawa)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by rikawa »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Hi, the clearances are:
Rods: .055mm
Mains: .040mm</TD></TR></TABLE>
I show the rods should be .032 - .050mm.. Running them too loose would cause a drop in oil pressure, but I wouldn't think this is loose enough to warrant that. What bearings did you use? How did you check the clearances? Mic or plastiguage? If you plastigauged, did you make SURE the journal, bearing, and the rod were all free of oil/dirt?
Hi, the clearances are:
Rods: .055mm
Mains: .040mm</TD></TR></TABLE>
I show the rods should be .032 - .050mm.. Running them too loose would cause a drop in oil pressure, but I wouldn't think this is loose enough to warrant that. What bearings did you use? How did you check the clearances? Mic or plastiguage? If you plastigauged, did you make SURE the journal, bearing, and the rod were all free of oil/dirt?
12-23-2005, 05:55 PM
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Re: (rikawa)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by rikawa »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Yeah. 43ft for the rods and the oem torq for the mains.
I tried the Motorman method of Hard break in. Some friends of mine, did that too, and got very nice results, but i didn't. Honestly, I don't know if it was a hard break in problem, after we open the the hole engine, i think i'll know....
Thanks for the 5min method, i'll think on it next time.
Now i need to know what a i'll be able tu re-use... Things here in Brazil are very hard and very expensive to buy...
Sorry for my bad english.
Thanks all for the reply!</TD></TR></TABLE>
I show 23ftlbs on the rod cap nuts also... where did you get 43? My spec is for a 92 B17, which should be the same, let me verify...
Modified by Hybrid93Eg at 7:32 PM 12/23/2005
Yeah. 43ft for the rods and the oem torq for the mains.
I tried the Motorman method of Hard break in. Some friends of mine, did that too, and got very nice results, but i didn't. Honestly, I don't know if it was a hard break in problem, after we open the the hole engine, i think i'll know....
Thanks for the 5min method, i'll think on it next time.
Now i need to know what a i'll be able tu re-use... Things here in Brazil are very hard and very expensive to buy...
Sorry for my bad english.
Thanks all for the reply!</TD></TR></TABLE>
I show 23ftlbs on the rod cap nuts also... where did you get 43? My spec is for a 92 B17, which should be the same, let me verify...
Modified by Hybrid93Eg at 7:32 PM 12/23/2005
12-23-2005, 05:58 PM
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Re: Rod Bearings Photos, Please, need opnions. (Hybrid93Eg)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Hybrid93Eg »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I show the rods should be .032 - .050mm.. Running them too loose would cause a drop in oil pressure, but I wouldn't think this is loose enough to warrant that. What bearings did you use? How did you check the clearances? Mic or plastiguage? If you plastigauged, did you make SURE the journal, bearing, and the rod were all free of oil/dirt?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Use OEM bearings from hondaautomotiveparts. I got the dimensions of the Rods, Crank with a mic, calculated the bearing clearance. After, i just checked with plasigage. Everything was clean when checked with plastigage.
I used a 10w-30 mineral oil for the break in. Is there a problem with it?
Thanks!
I show the rods should be .032 - .050mm.. Running them too loose would cause a drop in oil pressure, but I wouldn't think this is loose enough to warrant that. What bearings did you use? How did you check the clearances? Mic or plastiguage? If you plastigauged, did you make SURE the journal, bearing, and the rod were all free of oil/dirt?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Use OEM bearings from hondaautomotiveparts. I got the dimensions of the Rods, Crank with a mic, calculated the bearing clearance. After, i just checked with plasigage. Everything was clean when checked with plastigage.
I used a 10w-30 mineral oil for the break in. Is there a problem with it?
Thanks!
12-23-2005, 06:00 PM
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Re: (Hybrid93Eg)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Hybrid93Eg »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I show 23ftlbs on the rod cap nuts also... where did you get 43? My spec is for a 92 B17, which should be the same, let me verify... </TD></TR></TABLE>
they are 3/8" ARP 2000 - 7/16" bolt head - 43 ft lbs.
I show 23ftlbs on the rod cap nuts also... where did you get 43? My spec is for a 92 B17, which should be the same, let me verify... </TD></TR></TABLE>
they are 3/8" ARP 2000 - 7/16" bolt head - 43 ft lbs.
12-23-2005, 06:18 PM
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Re: Rod Bearings Photos, Please, need opnions. (AutoEng2002Si)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by AutoEng2002Si »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Do you have pictures of the crankshaft journals?</TD></TR></TABLE>
I'll just be able to get them on monday. As soon, i'll post them here. Also, i'll post the other two rods bearings(1 and 4).
I'll just be able to get them on monday. As soon, i'll post them here. Also, i'll post the other two rods bearings(1 and 4).
12-23-2005, 06:25 PM
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Re: Rod Bearings Photos, Please, need opnions. (rikawa)
Another question, Am I able to use the "blue" rods, if I meassure them and be on specs? What Imean is, if the overheat affects the rod resistance...?
Thanks.
Thanks.
12-23-2005, 06:59 PM
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Re: Rod Bearings Photos, Please, need opnions. (Blackack26)
If your rods are blue that means they've been overheated and the physical properties of the metal has been comprimised...so...in basic terms. No you can't safely resuse them.
12-23-2005, 07:07 PM
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Re: Rod Bearings Photos, Please, need opnions. (JDMs1eeper)
Originally Posted by JDMs1eeper
I think your oil light came on from the spun bearing. if you oil pump wasnt working right it would have thrown an low oil pressure light from first start up.
You might be able to re use the rods and crank, Id just have them checked out just incase. Those bearings are soft and if its a minor spun bearing like yours, It'll still be ok and in spec. Did you do step your TQ sets to what is called for?
hearing that this is a B16 you prolly took it up pretty high in RPMs. you shouldnt do this because things are running a "lil" hotter than normal and those higher loads and RPMS can cause the bearing to heat up and stick and spin.
Just check to make sure you didnt mess anything up, buy some new bearings and try again buy dont act like a child over the next break in. Fun will come AFTER the break in, if done correctly. If you do it right, You could be ready for boost and tunning in as little as 50-100 miles.
Next time try what i do... 5 minute rule..
Before startup:
No spark plugs in, ECU fuse removed, WOT, Crank until oil light goes off for 2-4 seconds.
first start up:
Let Idle for ONLY 5 minutes while looking for leaks ... coolant and oil. Let it get up on temp... watching, lookin and listening to things that you may have messed up on. Turn off after or before the 5 minutes.
Check oil. Let cool COMPLETELY.
2nd startup:
Take the car out somewhere near by just incase you break down. Keep in mind that you need to be back in 5 MINUTES or less for the cool down. Drive the car around like your a Grandmah... listen, smell and look for thens that might be going wrong. Return back and turn the car off.
CHeck oil + Leaks.... Let cool COMPLETELY
3rd start up:
Same as Before, remember 5 MINUTES!! go out to a open stretch where you can act like a Ricer for a lil bit... when you get there do this... Star in 2nd gear at around 2,000 rpm's and revv it out to around 5500 at WOT, then release the gas and let the car slow down on its own w/ the engine drawing vacuum. when it gets back down to 2,000rpms again gag it again to 5500-6000. repeat this but ONLY go to about 6000 rpms max. Do this 12 times and return back to your garage or home. Turn the car off.
Check oil + Leaks.... Let cool COMPLETELY
4th start up:
Do the exact same thing as before but start at 3,000 and rev to 7000 then let it slow down to about 2,000 and repeat until you do it 12 times total. Return home.
Check oil + Leaks... **DO COMPRESSION CHECK**
while engine is still warm, pull plugs, ecu fuse and do each cylinder twice. Dont forget to do it at WOT also.
Just check to make sure your rings are seating correctly, make sure your compression is around what it should be for your compression ratio your running.
After you let the car cool down COMPLETELY ... change your oil AND oil filter.
Go out on short trips at around 10-15 minute each, makeing sure you let it have a COMPLETE cool down each time. When your maken these trips, dont run it at a constant RPM; exampe, interstate driving. Do town driving where you will have constant RPM changes and load changes. The differnt RPM changes and loads will help break in the bottomend bearings correctly. Load is also a great plus for breaking in the rings. Remember to keep your trips short and let the engine cool completely each trip.
The reason I say, keep the trips around 5 minutes at first, then around 10-15 after that first oil change is because... i said so. JK, Its because your engine is running at higher temps than normal, and like we all know (I hope) is that heat breaks down the protection of the oil but it also will cause the oil to "glaze" your cylinder walls. If your Cylinder walls become "glazed" than that means break in is "OVER"... So You need to make sure your motor is completly to spec before this happens. This will help your engine last longer, have better compression, consume less oil and all that stuff. So these "small" sessions are VERY important to a proper break in.
The reason I say, Floor it like your a ricer , back and forth with the RPMS is because I said so also... jk... Its because it'll be a good work out for breakin in the bearings + MAINLY for the rings. When your adding that load on the engine It'll press the rings outwards into the cylinder walls groving a seal for your rings. This is the best way to seat rings, and most manuals will back me up w/ that theory.
Just remember this too:
Oil change +oil filter after your first 20-30 total minutes of first start up
Oil change + oilfilter after 200-300miles easy/moderate driving... no speed racer 10,000rpms on start up
My car was up on compression, 210 across after 50 miles
After a street tune for part throttle with boost, I broke in the new turbo until i was at 300 miles. Then we street tuned it on the way to the dyno, then dyno tuned. Made 365.4 whp and 273.8 ftlbs on 10psi. Next day ran a 11.50 @ 125 on BFG's runnin outta gear... still just as fast just needs a twin disk, 1000cc injectors and 3bar tunning for some serious power
Good Luck... Hope that helps????
Merry Christmas everyone
You might be able to re use the rods and crank, Id just have them checked out just incase. Those bearings are soft and if its a minor spun bearing like yours, It'll still be ok and in spec. Did you do step your TQ sets to what is called for?
hearing that this is a B16 you prolly took it up pretty high in RPMs. you shouldnt do this because things are running a "lil" hotter than normal and those higher loads and RPMS can cause the bearing to heat up and stick and spin.
Just check to make sure you didnt mess anything up, buy some new bearings and try again buy dont act like a child over the next break in. Fun will come AFTER the break in, if done correctly. If you do it right, You could be ready for boost and tunning in as little as 50-100 miles.
Next time try what i do... 5 minute rule..
Before startup:
No spark plugs in, ECU fuse removed, WOT, Crank until oil light goes off for 2-4 seconds.
first start up:
Let Idle for ONLY 5 minutes while looking for leaks ... coolant and oil. Let it get up on temp... watching, lookin and listening to things that you may have messed up on. Turn off after or before the 5 minutes.
Check oil. Let cool COMPLETELY.
2nd startup:
Take the car out somewhere near by just incase you break down. Keep in mind that you need to be back in 5 MINUTES or less for the cool down. Drive the car around like your a Grandmah... listen, smell and look for thens that might be going wrong. Return back and turn the car off.
CHeck oil + Leaks.... Let cool COMPLETELY
3rd start up:
Same as Before, remember 5 MINUTES!! go out to a open stretch where you can act like a Ricer for a lil bit... when you get there do this... Star in 2nd gear at around 2,000 rpm's and revv it out to around 5500 at WOT, then release the gas and let the car slow down on its own w/ the engine drawing vacuum. when it gets back down to 2,000rpms again gag it again to 5500-6000. repeat this but ONLY go to about 6000 rpms max. Do this 12 times and return back to your garage or home. Turn the car off.
Check oil + Leaks.... Let cool COMPLETELY
4th start up:
Do the exact same thing as before but start at 3,000 and rev to 7000 then let it slow down to about 2,000 and repeat until you do it 12 times total. Return home.
Check oil + Leaks... **DO COMPRESSION CHECK**
while engine is still warm, pull plugs, ecu fuse and do each cylinder twice. Dont forget to do it at WOT also.
Just check to make sure your rings are seating correctly, make sure your compression is around what it should be for your compression ratio your running.
After you let the car cool down COMPLETELY ... change your oil AND oil filter.
Go out on short trips at around 10-15 minute each, makeing sure you let it have a COMPLETE cool down each time. When your maken these trips, dont run it at a constant RPM; exampe, interstate driving. Do town driving where you will have constant RPM changes and load changes. The differnt RPM changes and loads will help break in the bottomend bearings correctly. Load is also a great plus for breaking in the rings. Remember to keep your trips short and let the engine cool completely each trip.
The reason I say, keep the trips around 5 minutes at first, then around 10-15 after that first oil change is because... i said so. JK, Its because your engine is running at higher temps than normal, and like we all know (I hope) is that heat breaks down the protection of the oil but it also will cause the oil to "glaze" your cylinder walls. If your Cylinder walls become "glazed" than that means break in is "OVER"... So You need to make sure your motor is completly to spec before this happens. This will help your engine last longer, have better compression, consume less oil and all that stuff. So these "small" sessions are VERY important to a proper break in.
The reason I say, Floor it like your a ricer , back and forth with the RPMS is because I said so also...
jk... Its because it'll be a good work out for breakin in the bearings + MAINLY for the rings. When your adding that load on the engine It'll press the rings outwards into the cylinder walls groving a seal for your rings. This is the best way to seat rings, and most manuals will back me up w/ that theory.Just remember this too:
Oil change +oil filter after your first 20-30 total minutes of first start up
Oil change + oilfilter after 200-300miles easy/moderate driving... no speed racer 10,000rpms on start up
My car was up on compression, 210 across after 50 miles
After a street tune for part throttle with boost, I broke in the new turbo until i was at 300 miles. Then we street tuned it on the way to the dyno, then dyno tuned. Made 365.4 whp and 273.8 ftlbs on 10psi. Next day ran a 11.50 @ 125 on BFG's runnin outta gear... still just as fast
just needs a twin disk, 1000cc injectors and 3bar tunning for some serious power Good Luck... Hope that helps????
Merry Christmas everyone
there is no such thing as breaking in a bearing!!!! break in periods only purpose is to properly mate the ring surface to the cylinder wall....that is all. the babbit surface of a bearing is so thin that if itmakes metal to metal contact. the bearing is trashed. period