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Old 11-15-2005, 09:17 AM
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I just removed my factory headunit and replaced it with a new one but my clock doesn't work anymore. It works when i push the button down as if the car was off, but the clock also resets everytime i turn it on. I have a 1996.
Old 11-15-2005, 11:59 AM
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Did you splice into the factory wiring harness or use an audio harness (like you should have)?
Sounds like you blew the backup fuse. What do you mean by "push the button down"?
Old 11-15-2005, 02:21 PM
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Default Re: (MooGoCow3)

actually i used a wiring harness that was plug and play. Now the clock doesn't work at all but the cig lighter does. The same thing happened in my friends civic when he got a new radio. Is there something that wasn't plugged back in?
Old 11-15-2005, 02:22 PM
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Default Re: (sony224422)

and yes, the clock is plugged in.
Old 11-15-2005, 02:32 PM
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Default Re: (MooGoCow3)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by MooGoCow3 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">What do you mean by "push the button down"? </TD></TR></TABLE>

in 5th gen accords there is a rectangular button below the clock screen, it folds down and that allows you to change the clock setup, but when its closed you can press it down and the clock will light up even when the car is turned off. I dont think its a fuse because most things running off of fuses in a vehicle are able to work while the car is turned off, such as the interior lights that turn on when you open your door, the door locks and the clock.

Press the button while the car is actually off and see if it lights up, if so then theres no way its a fuse, im already 99% sure its not already just because it works when you press the button anyways, sounds like a wiring problem
Old 11-15-2005, 02:59 PM
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Default Re: (HondaMike17)

yeah thanks for explaining. The thing is i didn't cut into any stock wiring so i think it might have something to do with the radio. As i said, my friends civic did the same thing as soon as the radio was removed. I'm wondering if somehow the constant power wire powers the clock so it doesn't die or something.
Old 11-15-2005, 03:04 PM
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Default Re: (sony224422)

Did you connect the illumination wire (the orange or orange with white stripe)? If you did this could be the reason that its not working. I would dis connect that wire and try again.
Old 11-15-2005, 03:17 PM
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Default Re: (ricerocketdave)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ricerocketdave &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Did you connect the illumination wire (the orange or orange with white stripe)? If you did this could be the reason that its not working. I would dis connect that wire and try again.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I connected that but seeing it didn't do anything with my headunit, i disconnected it. My clock didn't work with it connected or disconnected. Thanks for the reply though.
Old 11-15-2005, 03:33 PM
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Default Re: (sony224422)

Double check all your fuses then.
Old 11-15-2005, 03:36 PM
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Default Re: (ricerocketdave)

the fuse that runs the clock also runs the cig lighter and the cig lighter works. So i dunno whats going on.
Old 11-15-2005, 03:43 PM
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Default Re: (sony224422)

if his fuse was out then it wouldnt come on whether he touched the button or not, your fuse makes it work man, if it dies, whatever its controlling dies, if the clock turns on while the car is off, fuse is NOT dead
Old 11-15-2005, 04:43 PM
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Default Re: (HondaMike17)

Yeah, i looked closer and it looks like theres red lines going thru it horizontal and it looks like the "1" is faded out. It resets itself everytime i turn off the car, and it doesn't work while the car is off. Maybe its not getting constant power?
Old 11-15-2005, 05:23 PM
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Default Re: (sony224422)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sony224422 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Maybe its not getting constant power?</TD></TR></TABLE>

That is why I said check your fuses. I have never had this problem on mine but I have seen it before and it always ends up being a fuse. If you have a wiring diagram I would look what all the wires are supposed to be (+12, ground, ect...) and meter the wires and make sure that they are doing what they are supposed to. Of course it could always just be a coincidence that it went bad when you replaced the radio.
Old 11-15-2005, 05:34 PM
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What you can do after you double check your fuses is disconnect the harness to your head unit and see if everything works ok again.
Old 11-15-2005, 05:40 PM
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Default Re: (MooGoCow3)

well i found out something interesting. The constant power isn't working for my headunit ( i ran a new wire before i knew that because im using a high powered headunit which would fry the stock wire) and i just tried to connect something to it and it doesn't work. Therefore i think theres something wrong, but i don't think its a fuse because as i said, the cig lighter works which is on the same fuse as the radio. I think i might just try splicing into the factory wiring and then running another wire directly to the battery to see if it helps. If it does i will let you know, because i think this is a problem on alot of honda cars, but i could be wrong. But both honda cars ( 93 civic and 96 accord) both had there clocks go out but work if you push down the button on them for 5th gen. clocks.
Old 11-15-2005, 07:09 PM
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Default Re: (sony224422)

There are 2 fuses for the radio. One under the dash and one under the hood. I am almost 100% sure that its a fuse considering that your constant power is not working.

BTW I am a professional car audio installer and the whole myth of having to run a new power wire is a bunch of B.S. if you ask me. I have installed countless Alpine radios with the high power amplifiers in them and have never once had any problems.

You need to go down to your local auto parts store and at least get a test light to be absolutely sure that your constant wire is not working, hooking up something else to it is not the right way to test something.
Old 11-15-2005, 07:34 PM
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Default Re: (ricerocketdave)

haha actually, i have installed alot of systems and yes the gauges of wires do matter. You wouldn't install a HO alternator and not upgrade the big 3. And i tested it with something that should have worked because it works on the other power. I don't need a light to test it, and its not a fuse seeing the clock turns on when i push the button. That scares me that you don't run new wires, seeing you could have someones car catch on fire. That is why its said in the manual to run new wires, seeing the factory ones are made to push out maybe 5-10 wrms to each speaker. When all of a sudden your pushing 27 wrms to them, yeah, alot more power is going to be used, which is going to make the power wire hot and then melt. I don't see how you can install car audio and not know about things like this.
Old 11-16-2005, 02:20 AM
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Default Re: (sony224422)

lol @ people still blaming a fuse, comon people its simple science, if one fuse goes out the clock will not work, both internal and external fuses working the clock control whether it comes on or not, there isnt going to be, half the power because 1 of the fuses go out. stop blaming fuses, you cack
Old 11-16-2005, 03:49 AM
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Default Re: (HondaMike17)

Like I said before you dumb ******* noob's. There are TWO fuses for the radio circuit, a primary and a backup.
It could very well be a fuse, I have had a headlight fuse blow before (right side) and the right side still worked even though it was very dim it still received a little leakage current. As far as the power wire upgrade goes I know about it very much, and its not the speaker wires that you have to upgrade its the constant power wire. Yes the aftermarket radios will draw a little more current than the factory unit but not enough to have to upgrade the wiring IMO. Obviously you stupid ***** are not competent enough to do simple wiring and you shouldn't because your car could be a possible fire hazard. Good luck
Old 11-16-2005, 05:00 AM
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Default Re: (ricerocketdave)

um actually you need to upgrade both speaker wire and constant power for alot of headunits and speakers. I know that i don't want to be running 100 wrms over wire that is made for 20 wrms. And you're calling me a n00b. i think you need to go learn how wire things. Why be stupid about it when all it takes is 5 minutes to re wire things and never have to worry. Yeah, thats what i thought.
Old 11-16-2005, 06:55 AM
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Default Re: (sony224422)

Its not the wattage that effects the size of the wire, its the current. If you knew anything about electronics you would know this.

Seeing that speakers are extremely low current devices it is not necessary to upgrade the size of the wire. Go ahead and take a meter to the speaker wire and then take it to the constant power wire and I guarantee that the current load will be dramatically different.

Also I have tested many cars to see if it is safe to run the extra power that an aftermarket head-unit puts out and have not yet found one that wont handle the load.

I know a little about this stuff I am an electronics engineering major and what you are telling me is completely wrong. Now don't get me wrong some cars will require you to run a new power wire for the head-unit, such as my buddy's 1964.5 mustang which was not built for the high power demands of a modern head-unit, but most (not all) newer cars will handle the extra power just fine.
I am running an Eclipse radio and a Precision Power EQP off of the factory wiring on my 97 Accord and have been doing so for almost four years and have never once had a problem.
All of this is running off of the factory harness and has no issues at all so don't go telling me just installing an aftermarket radio needs a bigger power wire, its just not true.
Old 11-16-2005, 11:31 AM
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Default Re: (ricerocketdave)

Um ok, before you go off making comments because your all pissed off think about what you just said, your calling me a dumb expletive but your the dumbass who keeps saying im 100% sure its a fuse, and the dude who owns the car and has probably checked both is telling you its not, what the expletive are you smoking..

oo were dumb ******* newbs because im pointing the obvious out and you keep dissagreeing, i understand you getting on him about putting in a new power wire but jesus christ dude thats why i didnt say anything about it, calm the expletive down and read the whole thread, so electrical tech if your not ms cleo then i believe if the dude that owns the car knows if his fuses are blown and if their not, over you.
Old 11-16-2005, 11:36 AM
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Default Re: (sony224422)

thats a pimp cig lighter you got there dave sweet setup also. whats the lil red button for?

Old 11-16-2005, 12:10 PM
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Default Re: (mac_24_seven)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mac_24_seven &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">thats a pimp cig lighter you got there dave sweet setup also. whats the lil red button for?</TD></TR></TABLE>

at the time this picture was taken, it was his alarm L.E.D. , it has since been moved to a different spot.

and wow... now i remember why i found a different forum... too many people are wound up too tight in HT.

and by the way, ricerocketdave wasnt saying 100% that is was a fuse, was making sure to check it. people make mistakes and miss things. jesus expletive christ. go drink a beer or something... relax.
Old 11-16-2005, 03:39 PM
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Default Re: (94hatchling)

Well its fixed. I ran a new constant power wire and hooked it up to my clock and bam it works like it should. BTW no fuses were back so i dunno whats up.


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