DieMaster

iTrader: (1)

tell me what u think.

(and yes i will probly rewire it w/ plugs and wire loom but i needed the car back as it's my DD. and i dont wana pay anymore for my dads gas in his truck that gets 14 mpg )

<U>Before:</U>



<U>After:</U>






and now the car pics:





i know the seat covers are chessy/riciey but they were free

Tyson

did you still want the air tube?

expletive

congratulations..is it code free?

I'd remove the butt connectors and use solder and heat shrink tubing.

crexer

that looks scary

d16singlecammer

Ah the classic MPFI swap, I remember when I got mine done to my 88 CRX DX it was night and day difference. The sedan looks clean, minus the seat covers and steering wheel cover.

DieMaster

iTrader: (1)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Tyson &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">did you still want the air tube?</TD></TR></TABLE>
actualy i have one i just didnt put it in.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by hoflakbang &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">congratulations..is it code free?

I'd remove the butt connectors and use solder and heat shrink tubing.</TD></TR></TABLE>
LOL that is solder and heatshink. it's red heatshink

YES CODE FREE FIRST TRY :D

cmyrex

looks damn good to me. Good stuff Now you have some decent respons from your mpfi.

darb2k

how hard was it to do on the auto?? whats the difference?

VegasEFHB

Good lookin bro! I am workin my D15B2 block and a possible D16A6 head with MPFI in my 88 Std Hatch and this is an inspiration!

Voodooboy520

What fuel filter to rail hose did you use? I take it its the Si one, I'm doing a ZC swap and their identical (I think).

SiMateoAko

looks freaking sweet.

I'm interested in the different in gas mileage now.

Just so everyone else knows, I asked Diemaster via MSN where his injector resistor box is, and he used obd2 injectors to avoid using an injector resistor box. Good idea

Clean up the wiring a bit and you're a EX... without giant fron disc brakes

VegasEFHB

I wouldn;t mind those giant front discs on my little hatch! Go fast and Stop fast with the ner MPFI swap!

RCautoworks

Looks good, now you need to convert it to a manual. I also would suggest fixing the wires sooner or later. I just did one last week, I will get pics this weekend.

DieMaster

iTrader: (1)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Voodooboy520 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">What fuel filter to rail hose did you use? I take it its the Si one, I'm doing a ZC swap and their identical (I think).</TD></TR></TABLE>

thats the DPFI hose thats why it's a little long. but still fuctional.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by darb2k &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">how hard was it to do on the auto?? whats the difference?</TD></TR></TABLE>

i'm still figuring this out. but heres what i know:

#1 u need to change the little part that turns the throttle w/ the cable. that little wheel. this is so the kick down cable can attach. if it's not connected (as mine curently is) the trany will shift from 1st to 4th in about 3 seconds :S so i dont know "how better" it feels. heres a pic of what i'm talking about:


#2 u need to get a auto MPFI ecu. i'm using the PS9 from a 91 EX sedan and this is what i would recomend. it's exatly like a PM6 with the addion of the auto stuff.

#3 this is what i'm still tring to figure out. there was a wht/red pin in B12. this is your interlock enable. right now i gota manualy unlock it out of park, put in N, then start the car.

#4 the DX/LX had a EGR on it (atleast mine did mine's CA emisions so IDK about other states) this manaifold dosent so u will have a extra vacume solonide from the egr. it's in the box w/ the purge sol. and map. (wires red, blk/yel - ECU pin A10) also down by the dizzy u will have a extra plug where the lift sensor pluged in. theres +5, signal (ecu C8), and signal ground, i just chose to leave thease in b/c it looks neat.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SiMateoAko &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Clean up the wiring a bit and you're a EX... without giant fron disc brakes </TD></TR></TABLE>
or the sunroof

crex23

Congrats on the MPFI swap. I just finished it on my automatic CRX DX and I love it! So much more power

HiProfile

That looks a lot cleaner than the mpfi swap I did last night with my brother. $50 ef, spare motor, d16z6 manifold, AEM fuel rail (no oem around ), fired right up. BTW I wish my sedan was that clean on the outside. Can't wait till I get a shell like that next year.

vtecn8ive

Good job. But that wiring is horrid. Just throw some tape on it so it looks cleaner .

Not to change subject. But is there a write up on how to use obd2 injectors so the resistor box is not needed?

-Shane

DieMaster

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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by vtecn8ive &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Not to change subject. But is there a write up on how to use obd2 injectors so the resistor box is not needed?

-Shane</TD></TR></TABLE>

there exatly like obd1 injectors. just tie all the common together. or go oem and get the splitter plug (the gray oe by the shock tower plug.) eather way there hi impidnce so no risistor box is nessary that was just one less thing i had to get

DieMaster

iTrader: (1)

ok update

i got some brackets and the 2 pully throtle wheel. the throttle looks good and done but the kickdown cable keeps the throtle open when conected. the engine will rev to 3K. also when conected the arm on the trany is about 1/3 up soif i jam on the gass i might break that cable :S

i am at a loss. i got the motor running code free but it wont shift for ****.

TH33G4MON3

not bad looks alot better now

crex23

On the kickdown cable on the tranny, there is two adjustment nuts. Right now the cable is probably too tight, so you need to adjust the two nuts all the way up.

88civhatch

about how hard was this? im about to do it on my hatch, but a little intimidated!

DieMaster

iTrader: (1)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by crex23 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">On the kickdown cable on the tranny, there is two adjustment nuts. Right now the cable is probably too tight, so you need to adjust the two nuts all the way up.</TD></TR></TABLE>

well i did that but it still wasrnt right. so i put the top nut all the way to the top then put the praket on to pfthat then a small hose clamp and the son of a bitch works and works great

OMFG what a diffrance!!!!! it pulls harder and i found myself pushing down the gass less. TYSON the pipe i have dosent fit. can usend me a pic of yours? the intake is loud enough i can wake the dead GOD I WISH I HAD VTEC infact i got pulled over for the loudness. lol

anyway i will fine tune it and keep this thread up as a log- thing.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 88civhatch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">about how hard was this? im about to do it on my hatch, but a little intimidated!</TD></TR></TABLE>

not hard IMO u just gota know what your doing and take your time. it took me ~ 2 days to do thw whole thing and 2 more days to figure out the kickdown cable. do it right the first time. dont take shortcuts.


Modified by DieMaster at 11:55 PM 9/11/2005

CaliforniaHighwayPatrol

glad your happy, when I did mine a long time a go, didn't notice that much of a difference

CaliforniaHighwayPatrol

If you want VTEC, Do a Mini-me Swap