FAQ: "My Car Spins Over, but Won't Start!" - Answers HERE!
07-27-2005, 07:11 AM
#1
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FAQ: "My Car Spins Over, but Won't Start!" - Answers HERE!
Summers in full swing, and I see more and more "My car spins over, but won't start" topics here, and I expect that since summertime brings out the worst in electrical components for our Civics.
So you get in your car, try and start it, but it only spins over?
First of all these steps only apply for a car that has enough battery juice to power up the starter enough to spin the car over normally. If you've tried starting the car so many times that your battery is weak, find a jump box or cables and go from there.
The most common problem is the main fuel pump relay, and you do not have to do much to diagnose it.
1. Turn the key into the "on" position and watch for the check engine light to go out just as the third key chime beep beeps. As the light goes out you should hear a faint "clink" noise coming from under the dash on the driver's side (passenger side for EK Civics), near the hood release lever. If you hear no "clink" then you need a main relay. They cost maybe $60.00 new at Honda, and they are a snap to replace. If you're a cheap bastard and cannot afford a new one, it can be repaired with a soldering iron and some knowledge, but i'd just buy a new one.
So you hear the "clink" noise, but still no starting, eh?
Well now it's time to dig a bit deeper. you need to figure out if you're not getting spark or fuel. 99% of spinning over, but not starting problems are from either no fuel or fire. the other 1% is no compression, and that just isn't common.
1. Checking for spark.
Grab up a long screwdriver and pull one plug wire out of the cylinder. Stick the tip of the screw driver into the plug wire end far enough to make contact with the metal tab in the wire to the tip of the screw driver. Tilt the handle of the screwdriver so that you hold the shaft of the screwdriver near any metal surface - i use one of the valvecover hold down nuts. Have a friend (if you have any) spin the car over. If you see sparks between the shaft of the screwdriver and the other metal surface, then you have spark. If not, then you have a problem getting spark then.
2. If you have no spark then there are a few different parts that can cause this. *Usually* it is the ignition coil, loctaed inside your distributor. It is a little box with a spring sticking out of it with a goldish case around it, and it's held in with two phillps screws once you get your car and rotor out of the way. I don't know of any real way of checking one out of the car other than replacing it with a known good one. A lot of times the coil will have burn/flash marks on it if it's bad, or going bad. a new coil from honda is about $90.00.
3. The other common (but not as common as the coil) is the ignitor module. It is a flat plastic-looking piece inisde the distributor with a few tabs with wires hooked up to it. I believe it's also held in with a few screws. again I know of no visual cues that an ignitor is bad, so if you can get another, try it out. a new ignitor from Honda is also about $90.00.
4. Another blanket way to fix the no spark would be a good new distributor from http://www.distributorking.com. this way you get a new base with sensors, coil, ignitor, cap, rotor, etc. all for a little more than the cost of an ignitor or coil.
The last item that can cause spinning over, but not starting is the ignition switch pigtail assembly. When these go bad they typically allow the car to crank for a second, but then it shuts right back off. I diagnose these by simply cranking the car and backing off the key just enough to disengage the starter, but still be in the full "crank" position. If you let go of the key and it springs back into the normal position and the engine dies, you need a new ignition switch pigtail/electrical portion. do not confuse this with the entire ignition assembly with lock cylinder - it's just the electrical harness. These are pretty cheap, but a PITA to install.
Hope this helps some of you guys.
Now what if the main relay works, and you have spark, but still no starting?
Time to check for fuel, and it's easy.
Grab a 12mm wrench and loosen the banjo nut on top of your fuel filter, and have someone turn the key into the "on" position - he may not even have to try and spin the car over. If you get no fuel spray, then you are not getting fuel, and if the main relay is in fact working, it's time for a fuel pump.
The fuel pump is located in an access panel under your rear seat cushion. I personally would try and find a used Integra fuel pump or even a new one if you can afford the pricetag - aftermarket ones suck ***. I say Integra because it's an upgrade, especially if you can get a GS-R one.
Modified by B18C5-EH2 at 11:25 AM 7/27/2005
So you get in your car, try and start it, but it only spins over?
First of all these steps only apply for a car that has enough battery juice to power up the starter enough to spin the car over normally. If you've tried starting the car so many times that your battery is weak, find a jump box or cables and go from there.
The most common problem is the main fuel pump relay, and you do not have to do much to diagnose it.
1. Turn the key into the "on" position and watch for the check engine light to go out just as the third key chime beep beeps. As the light goes out you should hear a faint "clink" noise coming from under the dash on the driver's side (passenger side for EK Civics), near the hood release lever. If you hear no "clink" then you need a main relay. They cost maybe $60.00 new at Honda, and they are a snap to replace. If you're a cheap bastard and cannot afford a new one, it can be repaired with a soldering iron and some knowledge, but i'd just buy a new one.
So you hear the "clink" noise, but still no starting, eh?
Well now it's time to dig a bit deeper. you need to figure out if you're not getting spark or fuel. 99% of spinning over, but not starting problems are from either no fuel or fire. the other 1% is no compression, and that just isn't common.
1. Checking for spark.
Grab up a long screwdriver and pull one plug wire out of the cylinder. Stick the tip of the screw driver into the plug wire end far enough to make contact with the metal tab in the wire to the tip of the screw driver. Tilt the handle of the screwdriver so that you hold the shaft of the screwdriver near any metal surface - i use one of the valvecover hold down nuts. Have a friend (if you have any) spin the car over. If you see sparks between the shaft of the screwdriver and the other metal surface, then you have spark. If not, then you have a problem getting spark then.
2. If you have no spark then there are a few different parts that can cause this. *Usually* it is the ignition coil, loctaed inside your distributor. It is a little box with a spring sticking out of it with a goldish case around it, and it's held in with two phillps screws once you get your car and rotor out of the way. I don't know of any real way of checking one out of the car other than replacing it with a known good one. A lot of times the coil will have burn/flash marks on it if it's bad, or going bad. a new coil from honda is about $90.00.
3. The other common (but not as common as the coil) is the ignitor module. It is a flat plastic-looking piece inisde the distributor with a few tabs with wires hooked up to it. I believe it's also held in with a few screws. again I know of no visual cues that an ignitor is bad, so if you can get another, try it out. a new ignitor from Honda is also about $90.00.
4. Another blanket way to fix the no spark would be a good new distributor from http://www.distributorking.com. this way you get a new base with sensors, coil, ignitor, cap, rotor, etc. all for a little more than the cost of an ignitor or coil.
The last item that can cause spinning over, but not starting is the ignition switch pigtail assembly. When these go bad they typically allow the car to crank for a second, but then it shuts right back off. I diagnose these by simply cranking the car and backing off the key just enough to disengage the starter, but still be in the full "crank" position. If you let go of the key and it springs back into the normal position and the engine dies, you need a new ignition switch pigtail/electrical portion. do not confuse this with the entire ignition assembly with lock cylinder - it's just the electrical harness. These are pretty cheap, but a PITA to install.
Hope this helps some of you guys.
Now what if the main relay works, and you have spark, but still no starting?
Time to check for fuel, and it's easy.
Grab a 12mm wrench and loosen the banjo nut on top of your fuel filter, and have someone turn the key into the "on" position - he may not even have to try and spin the car over. If you get no fuel spray, then you are not getting fuel, and if the main relay is in fact working, it's time for a fuel pump.
The fuel pump is located in an access panel under your rear seat cushion. I personally would try and find a used Integra fuel pump or even a new one if you can afford the pricetag - aftermarket ones suck ***. I say Integra because it's an upgrade, especially if you can get a GS-R one.
Modified by B18C5-EH2 at 11:25 AM 7/27/2005
07-27-2005, 07:26 AM
#4
Former Moderator
Thread Starter
Re: FAQ: "My Car Spins Over, but Won't Start!" - Answers HERE! (JDM-EJ1)
***Updated to include fuel pump info and checking for fuel even if the main relay works and you have good spark***
07-27-2005, 07:27 AM
#5
I am a (Trial User) Army
Re: FAQ: "My Car Spins Over, but Won't Start!" - Answers HERE! (B18C5-EH2)
You've been on a lot lately this past week. Will you continue to be on during the day again?
07-27-2005, 07:40 AM
#6
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Re: FAQ: "My Car Spins Over, but Won't Start!" - Answers HERE! (litterbox)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by litterbox »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You've been on a lot lately this past week. Will you continue to be on during the day again?</TD></TR></TABLE>
My shop is a tad slow this week, so I have more time to be on. also I've got a tech on vacation, so I scheduled lighter as well.
When I have the time I'm on as much as possible in the daytime.
My shop is a tad slow this week, so I have more time to be on. also I've got a tech on vacation, so I scheduled lighter as well.
When I have the time I'm on as much as possible in the daytime.
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07-27-2005, 07:53 AM
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Re: FAQ: "My Car Spins Over, but Won't Start!" - Answers HERE! (blaze the chemi)
You may want to change #1 to CHECK ECU FUSE
I spent hours sodering, desodering, and testing ecus because I had chipped them and blown the fuse when I put it back in.
I spent hours sodering, desodering, and testing ecus because I had chipped them and blown the fuse when I put it back in.
07-27-2005, 09:45 AM
#10
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Re: FAQ: "My Car Spins Over, but Won't Start!" - Answers HERE! (nota-eg)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by nota-eg »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You may want to change #1 to CHECK ECU FUSE
I spent hours sodering, desodering, and testing ecus because I had chipped them and blown the fuse when I put it back in. </TD></TR></TABLE>
If the ECU fuse is blown then the check engine light won't usually shut off at all.
I pull my ECU fuse out any time I park my car, even if it's within sight of me. It will make the car spin over, but not start, but I also *believe* the check engine light will stay on rather than going out and having the main relay click or not.
To double check I'll pull my ECU fuse out tonight when I get home (I'm on the bike today) and see exactly what it does, and then update the info I posted here.
If we're mentioning fuses, then it's also important to note that a bad/blown ACGS fuse in the under dash panel will also cause spinning over, but not starting, and I'm positive that the CEL won't go out at all if it's bad.
I spent hours sodering, desodering, and testing ecus because I had chipped them and blown the fuse when I put it back in. </TD></TR></TABLE>
If the ECU fuse is blown then the check engine light won't usually shut off at all.
I pull my ECU fuse out any time I park my car, even if it's within sight of me. It will make the car spin over, but not start, but I also *believe* the check engine light will stay on rather than going out and having the main relay click or not.
To double check I'll pull my ECU fuse out tonight when I get home (I'm on the bike today) and see exactly what it does, and then update the info I posted here.
If we're mentioning fuses, then it's also important to note that a bad/blown ACGS fuse in the under dash panel will also cause spinning over, but not starting, and I'm positive that the CEL won't go out at all if it's bad.
07-27-2005, 10:40 AM
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I went out to start my car this morning and it did not start at all. Mind you I live in florida so it was insanely hot and humid today. I researched online and removed my main relay Honda wants about 65 bucks for a new one and I was wondering if anyone has a descent detailed description on how to repair it by soldering it.
07-27-2005, 10:45 AM
#12
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Re: (Strikerrr)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Strikerrr »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I went out to start my car this morning and it did not start at all. Mind you I live in florida so it was insanely hot and humid today. I researched online and removed my main relay Honda wants about 65 bucks for a new one and I was wondering if anyone has a descent detailed description on how to repair it by soldering it.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Did it spin over at all, or did it do nothing at all?
Did it spin over at all, or did it do nothing at all?
07-27-2005, 12:47 PM
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yea it spun over it did it to me yesterday. I just got back from honda and put it in and it worked thank you for posting this FAQ I was almost ready to sell my car because I was so fed up with it. You gave me faith!!!!!
07-27-2005, 12:54 PM
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Re: (B18C5-EH2)
great post
my car makes a nasty grinding noise sometimes when i try to start it. it always fires up, but it kinda cuts out when it's cranking and makes a real bad grinding sound sometimes - most of the time it starts normally. a few months ago i pulled the starter out and cleaned a bunch of electrical stuff and it went away. but it started doing it again a few weeks ago. any ideas?
my car makes a nasty grinding noise sometimes when i try to start it. it always fires up, but it kinda cuts out when it's cranking and makes a real bad grinding sound sometimes - most of the time it starts normally. a few months ago i pulled the starter out and cleaned a bunch of electrical stuff and it went away. but it started doing it again a few weeks ago. any ideas?
07-27-2005, 01:03 PM
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Re: (The Internet Tough Guy)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by The Internet Tough Guy »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">great post
my car makes a nasty grinding noise sometimes when i try to start it. it always fires up, but it kinda cuts out when it's cranking and makes a real bad grinding sound sometimes - most of the time it starts normally. a few months ago i pulled the starter out and cleaned a bunch of electrical stuff and it went away. but it started doing it again a few weeks ago. any ideas?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Clean it again?
my car makes a nasty grinding noise sometimes when i try to start it. it always fires up, but it kinda cuts out when it's cranking and makes a real bad grinding sound sometimes - most of the time it starts normally. a few months ago i pulled the starter out and cleaned a bunch of electrical stuff and it went away. but it started doing it again a few weeks ago. any ideas?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Clean it again?
07-27-2005, 01:47 PM
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Re: (The Internet Tough Guy)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by The Internet Tough Guy »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">great post
my car makes a nasty grinding noise sometimes when i try to start it. it always fires up, but it kinda cuts out when it's cranking and makes a real bad grinding sound sometimes - most of the time it starts normally. a few months ago i pulled the starter out and cleaned a bunch of electrical stuff and it went away. but it started doing it again a few weeks ago. any ideas?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Sounds like your starter isn't meshing well with the flywheel teeth.
Have you tried popping in another starter?
my car makes a nasty grinding noise sometimes when i try to start it. it always fires up, but it kinda cuts out when it's cranking and makes a real bad grinding sound sometimes - most of the time it starts normally. a few months ago i pulled the starter out and cleaned a bunch of electrical stuff and it went away. but it started doing it again a few weeks ago. any ideas?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Sounds like your starter isn't meshing well with the flywheel teeth.
Have you tried popping in another starter?
07-29-2005, 08:18 AM
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Re: FAQ: "My Car Spins Over, but Won't Start!" - Answers HERE! (B18C5-EH2)
Great write up. I have that "ignition switch pigtail/electrical portion" problem. Can someone link me what I need to get from http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com
07-29-2005, 08:54 AM
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Re: FAQ: "My Car Spins Over, but Won't Start!" - Answers HERE! (SkoundrelUSA)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B18C5-EH2 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Sounds like your starter isn't meshing well with the flywheel teeth.
Have you tried popping in another starter?</TD></TR></TABLE>
i hope not. i just looked at it and that stupid little wire that just clips on to that metal connector thing was pretty loose. i wonder if it was just shorting out.
Have you tried popping in another starter?</TD></TR></TABLE>
i hope not. i just looked at it and that stupid little wire that just clips on to that metal connector thing was pretty loose. i wonder if it was just shorting out.
08-16-2005, 09:16 AM
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Re: (NA guy)
How about those of us with new motors for teh summer.
Have spark, checked timing, wiring all looks good (done by rywire), grounds rechecked and sanded, fuel is definitely flowing (found out due to loose bolt), but won't start. New battery and all fuses checked.
Just turns and sometimes sounds like it wants to fire, but nothing. Plugs are a little white and the wires are new. What else. I've seen a few of these threads and a lot of people are having problems.
Can the level of coolant have anything at all to do with a car not starting?
Have spark, checked timing, wiring all looks good (done by rywire), grounds rechecked and sanded, fuel is definitely flowing (found out due to loose bolt), but won't start. New battery and all fuses checked.
Just turns and sometimes sounds like it wants to fire, but nothing. Plugs are a little white and the wires are new. What else. I've seen a few of these threads and a lot of people are having problems.
Can the level of coolant have anything at all to do with a car not starting?
11-10-2005, 07:07 PM
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Re: FAQ: "My Car Spins Over, but Won't Start!" - Answers HERE! (B18C5-EH2)
what if you have spark but your getting no fuel. fuel pump works, tried another relay, checked all fuses, switched ecu, and still nuttin? we checks the injector plugs with a noid light but no flashes. i disconnected the passenger side engine harness then plugged back in. checked the with noid light we had signal. we let the engine run for a lil. then we shut off to change ecu. let it run for a lil. turned it off for a good 10 min. tried to crank and same problem.
