DEMNTD1

Which studs would you use?

Would it be ok to use the B16A ARP Head Studs on the Type R's, or would you need to use the B18C ARP Head Studs?

I installed the B16A head studs on the B18C5, torque them down to 10llbs so it is all equal, installed the PR3 B18C5 head, and torqu them down to 65lbs (due to aluminum) in three steps.

DEMNTD1

Another questions, are head studs based on the deck height of the block or the type of head used?

I've seen threads stating that using B18C head studs on a B16A will be too long, B16A head studs on a GSR is too short, is this due to the taller/shorter deck height or the difference between PR3 and P72 head configuration?



As seen on this photo below, the B16A ARP head studs are shorter in length and GSR head studs are longer. But the added length is not on the threaded sections, but rather the non-threaded area. So I would assume deck height doesn't matter and it is more towards the type of cylinder head used.

Since the threaded sections on both ends are the same, it would stop equally on the block when installed, the difference in length with be on the non-thread area with is where the head sits. So it seems that where the washer and nut sit on the inside of the head are of different height location on the B16A (PR3) and B18C (P72).

So if you use a B16A head, PR3 head then the shorter head studs are to be used, and if you use the GSR head, P72 head, the you would use the longer head studs.

MadtownSi

I think your wrong, deck height does matter, not the head. The insert that in pressed into the block for the studs to thread into is pressed in at the same depth on a B16 and B18C5 blocks. The C5 block is a bit taller so you lengthen the non-threaded part so you make up for the difference in height. By doing this you still keep the same amount of thread engagement both in the block and on the head.

This thought might prove my point, B16 and B18C5 use the same head casting but the B18C5 block studs are longer then the B16 ones. Why?? Difference in deck height.

There are people out there that have been working on Hondas for years and will tell you, you can use B16 studs in a B18C5 block but why would you do this??? If the Honda engineers wanted it this way they would have made all the studs the same length, but there not. Use the proper ones and don’t cut corners.

PURPLETERROR aka BIGMATT

NO NO NO, you have to use the gsr studs, do not use the b16a studs, they are to short. You would understand if you have ever seen the 2 blocks next to eachother. It dosent matter what cyl head you use, pr3/p72, the stud length depends on the deck height of the block.

dwnthehatch

iTrader: (1)

I used gsr studs on mine.

DEMNTD1

Ok, I get it now. Looking at it the opposite way.

Calculating it from the top of the deck height down, rather than same exact location of the threaded insert and looking at it from the insert location up.

So I guess its time to disassemble the head and get me a set of GSR head studs.

DEMNTD1

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PURPLETERROR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">NO NO NO, you have to use the gsr studs, do not use the b16a studs, they are to short. You would understand if you have ever seen the 2 blocks next to eachother. It dosent matter what cyl head you use, pr3/p72, the stud length depends on the deck height of the block.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I understand, if it is too short, then I would not have been able to screw in the nut and washer for the ARP head studs right. We are talking about 1/4" difference in length. But the washer went on and still had good amount of threads left for the nut. Once torqued down theres is a good amount off threads showing on top of the nut still. If too short, then the thread would be flushed to the nut or below the top of the nut.

Let me take a photo of the nuts.