How To: Quaife Steering into EG
07-23-2005, 11:54 AM
#1
I am a (Trial User) Army
Thread Starter
How To: Quaife Steering into EG
REVIEW ON PAGE 2!
Hey Guys,
Am I the only one that hates that loose play in the steering wheel and the feeling that you need to turn the steering wheel about 180 degrees just to turn the car a little bit? This is the solution for you: Quaife steering rack and pinion, it reduces the LTL from 4.0 to 3.25. This should help on the road or autocross course as well.
The following is my experience with the install:
Ok, first off, I definitely recommend that you do this when your bay is empty, like so:
The first thing you will need to do is jack up the front of the car, remove the wheels and pop out the tie rod ends, like so (tie rod ends removed)
Now you need to remove the steering rack. It has 4 bolts that attach it to the subframe, 2 on left, and 2 on right (in this pic, the steering rack has already been removed, but you can see the holes):
Left side:
Right (driver) side:
Now, go inside the car and pull the carpet back to expose where the steering column meets the rack:
There is a 10mm bolt that needs to be removed (already done in pic):
You can see the threaded hole in this pic (bad pic):
Now you can remove the entire rack from the car and it'll look like this. (I don't know where my shoes went in this pic)
:
Slide the cover off:
Unscrew that bolt:
Once bolt is undone, you'll find a spring revealed and some other parts:
Ok, from this angle, there is a seal (not shown) that you need to gently pry out. Careful, it might tear and you'll have to get a new one. I tore mine.
After you remove that seal, you'll see this circular clip that needs to be removed:
Ok, so now you're actually at this step:
Now what you do is hold the pinion rod with your hand and hammer the rack to pull out the pinion and bearing:
Once it's out, it'll look like this (the bearing is pressed on it, and there is a clip in the middle right above the bearing that fits into a groove on the actual pinion, I'll need to order a new clip because i can't get that one off:
So the pinion is removed, now it's time to remove the rack. First start by undoing those clips that hold the boots on each side in place. You'll need to pry them up with a flathead or something. Don't ruin them, they will be reused:
Once the clip is removed, slide the boot off and the rack will follow:
You'll then need unbolt the rack from the inner side of the tie rods. You'll need a damn big wrench. It'll look like this when done:
The other side is the same:
Now take the new rack and slide it in the rack casing and bolt each tie rod end back to it.
It's now time to put the pinion in place. First press the new bearing on the pinion just like the stock one. Press the bearing all the way down to where the groove in the pinion is revealed. Remember that's for the clip to go to hold the bearing in place. That clip is in place in this pic:
Here's the box the bearing came in
Now slide the pinion with bearing back in place, it might need a little tapping, place the circular clip in, then put the seal on top of that, then put the cover thing back on it and you're all done! Just bolt the rack back in place.
Here's a pic of the old rack and pinion, they make good weapons:
I haven't actually tested this setup yet because I don't have the engine in yet, but I'll definitely report back once the car is drivable.
Hope this helps everyone.
Modified by litterbox at 8:09 AM 8/29/2005
Hey Guys,
Am I the only one that hates that loose play in the steering wheel and the feeling that you need to turn the steering wheel about 180 degrees just to turn the car a little bit? This is the solution for you: Quaife steering rack and pinion, it reduces the LTL from 4.0 to 3.25. This should help on the road or autocross course as well.
The following is my experience with the install:
Ok, first off, I definitely recommend that you do this when your bay is empty, like so:
The first thing you will need to do is jack up the front of the car, remove the wheels and pop out the tie rod ends, like so (tie rod ends removed)
Now you need to remove the steering rack. It has 4 bolts that attach it to the subframe, 2 on left, and 2 on right (in this pic, the steering rack has already been removed, but you can see the holes):
Left side:
Right (driver) side:
Now, go inside the car and pull the carpet back to expose where the steering column meets the rack:
There is a 10mm bolt that needs to be removed (already done in pic):
You can see the threaded hole in this pic (bad pic):
Now you can remove the entire rack from the car and it'll look like this. (I don't know where my shoes went in this pic)
:Slide the cover off:
Unscrew that bolt:
Once bolt is undone, you'll find a spring revealed and some other parts:
Ok, from this angle, there is a seal (not shown) that you need to gently pry out. Careful, it might tear and you'll have to get a new one. I tore mine.
After you remove that seal, you'll see this circular clip that needs to be removed:
Ok, so now you're actually at this step:
Now what you do is hold the pinion rod with your hand and hammer the rack to pull out the pinion and bearing:
Once it's out, it'll look like this (the bearing is pressed on it, and there is a clip in the middle right above the bearing that fits into a groove on the actual pinion, I'll need to order a new clip because i can't get that one off:
So the pinion is removed, now it's time to remove the rack. First start by undoing those clips that hold the boots on each side in place. You'll need to pry them up with a flathead or something. Don't ruin them, they will be reused:
Once the clip is removed, slide the boot off and the rack will follow:
You'll then need unbolt the rack from the inner side of the tie rods. You'll need a damn big wrench. It'll look like this when done:
The other side is the same:
Now take the new rack and slide it in the rack casing and bolt each tie rod end back to it.
It's now time to put the pinion in place. First press the new bearing on the pinion just like the stock one. Press the bearing all the way down to where the groove in the pinion is revealed. Remember that's for the clip to go to hold the bearing in place. That clip is in place in this pic:
Here's the box the bearing came in
Now slide the pinion with bearing back in place, it might need a little tapping, place the circular clip in, then put the seal on top of that, then put the cover thing back on it and you're all done! Just bolt the rack back in place.
Here's a pic of the old rack and pinion, they make good weapons:
I haven't actually tested this setup yet because I don't have the engine in yet, but I'll definitely report back once the car is drivable.
Hope this helps everyone.
Modified by litterbox at 8:09 AM 8/29/2005
07-23-2005, 12:29 PM
#6
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Re: How To: Quaife Steering into EG (fasthatchb18c1)
superb write up man 
just wondering where you purchased the rank and pinion from and price?
very cool man
just wondering where you purchased the rank and pinion from and price?
very cool man
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07-23-2005, 12:45 PM
#8
I am a (Trial User) Army
Thread Starter
Re: How To: Quaife Steering into EG (my head a plode)
Thanks for the positive reviews guys! I bought the kit directly from Quaife because their dealers didn't stock them or didn't offer any sort of lowered price.
http://www.quaifeamerica.com <--then click suspension. I payed $240.
http://www.quaifeamerica.com <--then click suspension. I payed $240.
07-23-2005, 12:51 PM
#10
I am a (Trial User) Army
Thread Starter
Re: (^^whatnoobsearchthenGTFO)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ^^whatnoobsearchthenGTFO »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">aren't you supposed to press the bearing onto the pinion shaft?</TD></TR></TABLE>Yes you are. I viced the pinion and tapped it and got it down to where it's supposed to sit.
07-23-2005, 03:45 PM
#15
Honda-Tech Member
Re: How To: Quaife Steering into EG (cxSHOE)
Not bad not bad. It would be nice to see the process of putting things back. I know its all backwards but its still cool
Did you really work in the rain? That sucks, i did a swap in the rain once got sick as hell. Never again. And you had no shoes
Good job man
Did you really work in the rain? That sucks, i did a swap in the rain once got sick as hell. Never again. And you had no shoes
Good job man
07-23-2005, 04:32 PM
#19
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Re: (MatHadder)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Archidictus »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Badass write-up, Litterbox. Keep this **** coming !</TD></TR></TABLE>
Definitely second this
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by GetawayInMoscow »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Great write up
You work on your car barefoot? </TD></TR></TABLE>
I was wondering the same thing. Do you not like your toes or something? lol
Definitely second this
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by GetawayInMoscow »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Great write up
You work on your car barefoot? </TD></TR></TABLE>
I was wondering the same thing. Do you not like your toes or something? lol
07-23-2005, 04:33 PM
#20
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Re: (Archidictus)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Archidictus »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Badass write-up, Litterbox. Keep this **** coming 
!</TD></TR></TABLE>
Hell yes. I can't wait to hear how this works. I hate my steering as is.
!</TD></TR></TABLE>Hell yes. I can't wait to hear how this works. I hate my steering as is.
07-23-2005, 05:48 PM
#22
Re: (pdiggitydogg)
That write up is bad as hell. I was originally going to buy this as soon as it came out, but they changed the advertised steering response. It originally said it was going down to 2.8 turns lock to lock for the EG, but then they switched to 3.x. Needless to say I was dissapointed. I don't know why, but my stock EG (94cx) has only 3.6 turns L2L, while my stock 89 CRX Si has slightly over 4. WTF! Why do people say theirs is the opposite?
