riot

A few hundred more pics can be found here:
http://www.riotdesigns.com/robert/buildup/

And to prove that it runs...here's a quick vid of the first start:
http://www.riotdesigns.com/vid...t.wmv
(right click save-as please)

Quick specs:
Built 406ci Chevrolet Small Block (6.7L)
11.75:1 C/R
TCI Powerglide
Narrowed Ford 9" with 4.30 gears
28x11.5x15 MT ET Drag slicks

We started this project around February and are now putting the final touches on it. We're looking to make our first pass this week (tomorrow if we can finish up the sheetmetal work on the wheel tubs tonight).

Estimated horsepower (500hp/600-650tq at the crank).

-ryan

*Update*
http://www.riotdesigns.com/vid...w.wmv

10.90@121mph!!!



Modified by riot at 12:38 AM 7/23/2005

duckmanEG

wow that is just awesome work.

riot

Before the V8/big tires/etc...







Not every day you see a road race car turn into a drag car.



My car is the one with the carbon hood.

duckmanEG

have u guys weigh the car since it has been done, u knwo with the SBC and big tires.

riot

We estimate around 2600lbs. It weighed 2499lbs in road race form.

-ryan

duckmanEG

u going to still road race, lol. or just stirckly 1320 it.

riot

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by duckmanEG &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">u going to still road race, lol. or just stirckly 1320 it.</TD></TR></TABLE>

...heh...was that a joke? Did you notice the front tires? 165R...somehow I don't think they'd be the best for turning...furthermore, the rear end has a spool (in other words...FULL LOCK all the time)...

duckmanEG

ya na it was joke, im not to much a of a noob. it would have been great if sumone was serious b4 and ask if that thing is for drifitng .

duckmanEG

i know what a spool is. couple friends have them in there poo stangs.

riot

Oh, I've gotten that response on other boards. I've also gotten the typical usless bullshit response like "it would have been cooler if you put a titan motor in and bored it our". People think you can just bore out any motor and find parts for them.

This motor cost about $3k to build. To build your average SR20DET you're looking at around $4k...and then you need to buy your turbo kit, accessories....

duckmanEG

na i think its cool i want to do this to my 91 when i had it and it didnt pass emissions i wanted to throw a 302 with the 8.8 rearend but i just sold it and moved on to a honda, lol. ppl are just jealous that ur going to wheelstand it half way down and they wouldnt be able to do so with the sr20det.

blueoval557

All my props to you far as fabrication work goes! Two things....I really hope you reinforced the hell out of the front end of that car. It was not built for the torque of a V8. From the one motor pic, looks like you may have, but I am not a Sylvia guy so I dont know whats factory reinforcements and what you put in yourself. Also....zoomies on a single carbureted SBC?? Why? All they are is loud and obnoxious...if its not blown, build or have built a nice set of headers with mufflers on them. Will sound MUCH better! Not dissing you...that took a **** load of work and my hat is off to you.

Kyle
EDIT: I just noticed its a ladder bar car?!?!?! All that work, you should of just put a 4-link in it...it'd save you some time down the road...

riot

We actually built a "craddle" to hold the motor which ties the two frame rails together. We're hoping that will "hold things together". If not, more bracing can be added.

As for the zoomies...my friend has been DYING to run zoomies for years...so there's no way you'd be able to talk him out of it. To be honest though, they actually do sound pretty good.

As for the ladder bar to 4 link...it was again...his decision to go with the ladder bar setup. They both looked pretty similar to me...why would you say that one would save time down road?

blueoval557

With a ladder bar setup, your "pickup points" or instant centers are very few compared to a 4 link setup. If you notice on the ladder bars...the upper and lower bars are tied together...therefore your instant centers are very few...being just the number of holes in the chassis...usually only 2 or 3. With a 4-link system, the bars are independent from one another...and there are TONS more instant centers than with a laddr bar setup. 4-links are just easier to setup to get launching right and go down the track right. Not saying you cant with a ladder bar...but sometimes it requires changes of other suspension components like shocks, etc...where if you had a 4-link...you could do basically all of your tuning with just the 4-link.
With a ladder bar car, its going to launch violent....thats just how they are. So, you may have to calm it down by doing other things with other suspension components. With a 4-link, you can make the car launch as hard or as soft as youd like.
Like I said, not saying ladder bars dont work! Our old car that we jus "retired" a 86 Mustang was a ladder bar car...full chassis car...with a 557 cubic inch big block ford in it with a lil over 1000 ft. lbs of torque and it was deadly consistent. We knew the car like the back of our hand because we had it for 10 yrs but still....it did very well for us. Launched SUPER violent, but once we messed with the shocks, and limited travel of the front suspension, it ran great!
Not to brag, but when it comes to drag racing chassis tuning and setup....i can help you with just about anything so dont hesitate to ask.
Again, GREAT JOB WITH THE FAB! GOOD LUCK!
Kyle

blueoval557

I just now looked at the rest of the pictures. I noticed two more things. First....some of the pics are hard to make out what they really are....but it doesnt look like theres much bracing on top of the ladder bar "pick-up" points...you have to remember, the entire car will be picked up on those two small spots. Like I said, maybe there is some bracing there but its hard to recognize some of the pics.
Also, I noticed the rear x brace going from the main hoop to the rear trunk floor, isnt tied into the actual rectangular bracing you installed. Then I figured the car already had the cage in it before you decided to do this mod. Anyways....it would be a MUCH better idea to tie the rear x into the rectangle bracing...even if it means cutting the current x-brace out and making a new one.
Just my .02. Again, good luck!
Kyle

riot

Kyle, I can assure you this cage will not last more than a few months. It was built when Robert road raced this car...so now that it is being used for something completely different, we'll probably have a new one built. If this car runs 9.99s or faster it'll have to be certified anyways, and he ain't no certified welder!

Concerning that ladder bar crossmember, we braced it with another pair of tubes...it's kind of hard to describe, but it should help a little. Robert and I agree with you 100%...that is a VERY weak point since a lot of energy is going to be going through there. It's going to be something that we'll need to keep an eye on FOR SURE.

Anywho, thanks for the good words...we appreciate it!

blueoval557

i see. good idea with the cage. DEFENITELY keep us posted. I dont know where you live, but if your close to Cali or want to take a road trip..id be more than happy to help you guys do the cage...MIG or TIG..i can do both. as for keeping an eye on the ladder bar pickup point..DEFENITELY do it...
our car was a normal, full chassis, box frame rail car, and after one of the many passes put on it...on the way back down the return road, my uncle noticed anoise coming from the rearend....turns out, the rear end had shifted sideway about 3 inches...and one slick was rubbing on the inside of the tubs....kept looking under it...and noticed the pick-up point on the ladder bars wash literally pushing through the box frame rail. instead of a 2x3 frame rail it squished it and just ripped it all apart....had to quit racing for the day and take her home and reinforce the hell out of the frame rails with some 1/4 inch plate...and have had no problems since.
keep in mind this was with a 557 cubic inch big block motor which like i said, had over 1000 ft. lbs of torque and made about a 1050 horsepower...running 8.7's @ 157! just something to keep an eye out on. i know from past experience..and dont want you guys to have to quit racing for a day like we did...and of course we were in first place going into that race LOL.
Dont hesitate with any questions... GOOD LUCK!
Kyle

Drag-Accord

Wow! That is awesome. Very clean, i really really like it. And it looks like you guys have a good camera & camera man, so we can all expect some great track vids from you guys i hope

MidShipCivic

Change it back.... or put a Nissan titan V8 in there to make me feel better.

booja

cool... another v8 240

theres a 95 240sx in houston with an ls1

throws me off when i see that thing take off. import car with a v8 rumble

wantboost

iTrader: (2)

if i had that car with that motor... id have to boost it... and take it to the next drift atlanta @ road atl

riot

and so begins the retarded comments...

wantboost

iTrader: (2)

lol. no love. i think it makes an awesome car. its beatiful and well executed to boot. none of this bootleg fabricating you see. very clean.

But you must admit, maybe a small blower or a little bit of nitrous and you ahve one very insane 1320 car. I like the strip and all, its just not my first love.

riot

At this exact point in time, all we're concerned with is getting this hunk of metal down the track as straight as possible. From there we'll be adding power (provided our fabrication holds up).

Remember...we could have a 1000hp small block, but if that ladder bar crossmember isn't properly secured to the frame rails, we ain't going anywhere.

Start small...and go from there.

blueoval557

Best way to look at it riot. Blower? Nitrous? Naw....all you haters gotta remember this is an AMERICAN motor! HAHA. Welcome to real horsepower without cheating! Although it is a chevy....LOL...its still an american motor.
Kyle