djnikko

Just like the subject says, its not just a neatly packaged resistor by any chance?

Im from the UK and want to run a Test pipe on the s2000 however can only get the simulators in the US it seems, is it worth me shipping one accross? or can I make one from RS parts?

Any help would be appreciated

Francesco

make a mechanical o2 simulator...ill post the link of how to do it when i get home...

97ShLude

Just find some 18mm non-foulers (it almost looks like an O2 sensor bung cover but with a threaded hole for the O2 sensor to fit inside it. What they do is essentialy pull the O2 sensor out of the direct flow of the exhaust gas).

Get two and drill one of them out with a 1/2 inch drill bit and then screw the one with the drilled hole in it into the one that doesn't. Take your stock O2 sensor out, put the test pipe on, put this contraption in and screw the O2 sensor back in and enjoy some uncatlyised exhaust!

I used the HELP! brand non-foulers if that helps in the search, and I have been using this for about 6 months now and no CEL. The best part is that it is super cheap...

devnull

There was a link somewhere on here where a guy took the 2nd O2 T-tap the power added a resistor to it and connected it to the signal wire. I had it on a 99 si and it worked great. No ECM's or nothing.

Francesco

http://www.s2ki.com/forums/ind...lator

sry im late...here is the link...im doing this this week to my S...j's test pipe is in the mail...

djnikko

Thanks for the replies thats great, I have a spoon decat pipe on the way I think I shall try the mechanical route first and if I have any troubles then look into the o2 simulator method but im sure it'll be alright.
I live in the UK and dont think we have any spark plug non foulers, they may be called something else. Do they look like this?

http://www.machinemart.co.uk/p...10261

I could buy a set of these, bore out the inside then tap it? Do you think that'll work?

Thanks

fknfast

its junk...

djnikko

as in its no good? as in it wont work?

djnikko

http://midwayautosupply.com/de...p?794

How about these above? I will prob end up having to get some shipped over?

Or could I use an o2 sensor bung? hollowed out then tapped?

Thanks

Francesco

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by djnikko &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">http://midwayautosupply.com/de...p?794

How about these above? I will prob end up having to get some shipped over?

Or could I use an o2 sensor bung? hollowed out then tapped?

Thanks </TD></TR></TABLE>

yup yup...make sure you got two and bore the second one out...i did it, it works...read the thread over and over lol, i posted pictures...

fknfast

theres a huge write up on why you shouldnt use that hunk.. check it out on s2ki.

Francesco

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fknfast &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">theres a huge write up on why you shouldnt use that hunk.. check it out on s2ki.</TD></TR></TABLE>

couple post up is the link

djnikko

I dont understand so I shouldnt use the o2 simulator method? or I shouldnt use the spark plug anti fowler method?

Will this ruin my engine in the long term?

Fknfast - youve made me paranoid now, unless ive misunderstood you

Francesco

do the mechanical one...

you have to splice wires in the o2 sensor for the sim...mechanical is just a plug and go, and it works...some sim's fail...

djnikko

I'll do just that! thanks for the replys

My spoon decat pipe is on the way, I have had to get some spark plug anti foulers shipped from the US to the UK and am buying a few more to sell on the UK forum.

WowOzYouRock

S2SLOW

Mr. Projekt

Test pipe smells.


Modified by Slideways2000 at 3:18 AM 2/13/2006

Chubz

ive only had my s2k for about 5 months now but is it true that the test pipe is the best bang for the buck when it comes to bolt ons?

jdunagan

I've been playing with my o2 sensor wires after a few days of waiting for the right one to arrive. Several things I've learned as I came up with a cheap hack that is a little sensitive in it's adjustment because of my wild guesing during the resistor purchase:

1) The upstream sensor is most important in most makes/models - this is the one on the exhaust manifold - it incoporates ground, signal, and voltage carrying wires.
2) You can completely fake the o2 sensors signal with $20 in parts (including a cute black box and circuit board) from RC
-- 3 prong voltage regulator with highest wattage they have -- note that the one I purchased only advertised dropping to 1.2 volts, but I was easily to manipulate it to feed 500millivolts to 800millivolts
-- following the circuit diagram on the back of the regulator's box using 2 variable resistors
-- in my case the parts list derived from the diagram on the VR's back included: .01mF Cap, .1mF Cap, 2 set screw style var resistors 1k and 10k respectively, a predrilled circuit board, solder
3) For the mod I'm adding, this adjustment is almost essential since I'm throwing pure hydrogen and oxygen in behind the throttle -- often upstream o2 systems take possible unused o2 as a lean condition with this tuning
4) The leaner you run the hotter you run, so if there isn't anything to cool the system that heat will cause damage - my mod evenly injects a little water to compensate;
5) To run leaner, push the voltage regulator's millivolt output to the signal wire to 777millivolts
6) The computer on my test car simulates it's own o2 signal when things are wired wrong (digging under the hood of my 88 I realized that the signal wire had been shorted with ground after the o2 sensor went bad by a kind previous owner) The computer simulated 659 at start dropping to as low as 550 at cruise or idle. Dyno results showed that the 550 settling zone was overly rich at idle and full throttle. At 720millivolts I can feel I'm past the sweet spot on my car, and can feel downpoints on the power band (2-2.5k rpms particularly) plus in general the entire power band is a little slow.
7) Experienced folks I'm getting a few questions in with say that this number often varies greatly moment to moment; however on my car jumping the millivolts from 499 straight to 800 had a response that occured over a matter of 5 to 10 seconds - so I think there is a lot of voltage data that the computer either ignores or computes an average on or ...

There are o2 manipulator designs and ready completed units, I'm hoping to get to look at manual for it by this coming Monday. http://www.eagle-research.com They said their components bought separately would be more than the $60 they charge for a completed one. I wonder if they are replacing the o2 voltage outright like I did, or using the existing sensor as a baseline and tackingon or taking away 1-25%? My o2 sensor's circuit is completely broken, so once the replacement arrives I can see how this setup works to "edit" the existing signal instead of replacing it.

Before tapping into the o2 sensor (it was running very rich) I had already cut my emission levels by 87% with the water-hydrogen-o2 idea. I am expecting more gains from this setup in mpg tomorrow when I find the happiest voltage for my elevation.

I am warmed that it is theoretically possible for some ECUs to reject changes made to the o2 signal and in turn fail computer interface based emissions inspections. I however don't think this a roadblock that will be difficult to get around and may at the most mean learning the bounds of the model's ECU.

I hope my experiments have brought something to light for you.

jdunagan

One update.. The voltage regulator failed after about 10 engine starts on the circuit board I put together. I however checked the haynes manual and found that my o2 sensor is supposed to maintain between 4 and 6 kOhms. So:

A simpler way to tweak your o2's signal for either mileage or power is to get a 10k potentiometer from RC.

Cut the signal cable which coming out of my sensor is white and out of my harness the grey wire's core. The end of the cable that runs into the harness connect to the center of the three contacts on the 10k potentiometer. The out side contacts get ground and 12v. The end of the wire/cable that comes out of the sensor hook up to a multimeter positive connection.

The lower the voltage coming from the multimeter and o2 sensor the leaner you are running down to 20 millivolts being nutty lean. As you adjust the potentiometer you can lean the mix so far that the engine will die on most cars.

The higher the voltage coming from the multimeter and o2 sensor the richer you are running. Higher than 750ish is too rich by normal standards. I discovered that I have a fuel regulator problem when I noted that putting the throttle at 25%+ yielded 13Volts where 550-650 millivolts should be -- way too rich.

After a bit of experimenting, with a mounted potentiometer an **** on the dash you can ditch the multimeter and mark some spots on the dial for rich and lean settings.

The mechanical method I'm sure gets the job done, but you can't easily undo it, save purchasing a new o2 sensor $45-100. Using the resistor method lets you pull your resistor out later, splice back the sensor wires and go back to stock.

Again, hope my hackin' is helpin'
Joey