Honda Hick

<U>BLOX Intake Manifold Install for a 1995 Acura Integra GSR</U>

I am making this write-up because there is a real lack of quality information on the install of the BLOX Intake Manifold on H-T. Additionally, the BLOX IM does not come with any type of instructions at all. A lot of the “official” IM posts do not have all the information needed and I found in my installation there is some misinformation out there too. This install is for a BLOX IM but it should also work for the Skunk2 IM from what I have seen, as they are relatively the same. Below are the parts needed for this install. All these parts are recommended for a COMPLETE install, not a half-assed job.

Parts needed:
-BLOX Intake Manifold
-New intake manifold gasket (Honda #17105-P72-004 or Hondata gasket)
-New throttle body gasket – (Honda #16176-P30-004)
-(3) M6x1.00x22mm bolts (for fuel rail)
-(2) M6x1.00x2 inch bolts (for fuel filter relocation)
-(6) M8x1.25x50mm studs (for intake manifold)
-Air intake from Integra Type R (OEM or aftermarket)
-3/8” x 3’ of coolant line
-5/16” x 3’ of vacuum hose
-1/4” I.D. Vacuum line for charcoal canister
-Chipped P28 ECU
-(Optional) Piece of angle iron to mount EVAP purge solenoid
I recommend buying and installing the below throttle cable parts so that your throttle cable is not sticking up with the stock one.
-(Optional) Integra Type R throttle cable (Honda #17910-ST7-R01)
-(Optional) Integra Type R throttle wire stay (Honda #16411-P73-000)
-(Optional) Non-GSR B or D-series throttle body pulley and spring


1. First uninstall and remove the stock intake manifold/gasket. I did this with the engine out of the car. I can’t imagine how difficult this is to do with it in the car, but people do it all the time so good luck to you. The IM gasket can be difficult to get off. I used some heat from a propane torch and it worked great or there are liquid gasket removers that you can get at car repair stores also. I found it easier to remove the gasket with the IM studs removed. To do this put 2 bolt on the stud, tighten them together, and then loosen the stud by using the inner nut.



2. I started by installing the new, longer studs to replace the top 6 stock studs. I used a Hondata IM gasket and with this gasket those studs were too short. I only got maybe 2 turns on each nut. The lower 4 studs are long enough for the whole nut to thread on.



3. You want to extend the Idle Air Control Valve (IACV) wires about 3-4 inches before you install the IM. These are the only wires that need to be extended or messed with.



4. Run a new vacuum line from the PCV valve upwards. Leave it long so that you can cut it to length later.




5. (Optional) If you are using the ITR throttle cable, you should install the non-GSR throttle plate and spring onto your stock TB now. It is straightforward but can be difficult because of the spring so it is best to do it while out of the car.

If you use a throttle plate from a B18A (and possibly more engines) it has an ear-shaped throttle plate. When using this plate on the GSR TB, the adjusting screw needs to be adjusted out because it will be holding the TB open a tiny bit. When I got my car running I could not get my idle to go down. I had no vacuum leaks or anything. It turns out that this set screw was holding the TB open a bit. You may have to further adjust this screw when the car is running to get it just right.


Adjust the non-adjustable screw . Loosen the 7mm nut and then adjust the screw with a small allen key (I forget the exact size)



6. Remove the throttle body from the stock IM and install it using a new gasket to the BLOX IM (14 ft. lbs.)


7. Remove the Idle Air Control Valve (IACV) from the stock IM. Next, it is a good idea to clean the IACV because if dirty it can negatively effect your idle or even trigger a check engine light and ECU code. Clean the IACV with some carb cleaner by spraying it inside the 2 air holes. Spray for a good 30 seconds and then spray out with an air compressor for about 2 minutes to make sure no moisture resides in it. Then install it on the BLOX IM insuring the O-ring is used (16 ft. lbs.)


10. Remove the fuel rail and injectors from the stock IM. Install the injectors into the BLOX IM by first setting the gaskets into the manifold and then pushing the injectors into the IM. Then install the fuel rail onto the injectors using the (3) M6x1.00x22mm bolts (8 ft. lbs.). DO NOT use the stock brown spacers between the fuel rail and IM. Also, the stock 3 studs on your GSR IM will not work. They are not threads down long enough.




11. (Optional) Remove the stock throttle cable and install the ITR throttle cable.


12. Bolt the BLOX intake manifold to the head using the IM gasket (17 ft. lbs.)


13. Run new coolant lines from the head to the Fast Idle Thermo Valve (FITV), FITV to IACV, and IACV to the head. Also connect the line coming from the PVC to the top vacuum outlet.





14. The EVAP purge solenoid does not have a place to bolt to the new manifold. Because of this it can be mounted to the firewall, which would involve extending the wires to it, or mounting it close to the stock location. I chose the later using a piece of angle iron and I did not have to extend the wires. Also, bolt the Intake Air Temp (IAT) sensor to the new manifold.



15. Run new vacuum lines from the IM to the fuel pressure regulator. Also, reconnect the fuel return line. Then run a vacuum hose from the IM to the bottom nipple on the EVAP purge solenoid. Then run one from the top nipple on the EVAP purge solenoid to the charcoal canister. You will also need to replace the stock vacuum line coming from the charcoal canister to the throttle body. It is a tight fit, so use a longer one.




16. Connect the 4 electrical plugs to the 4 sensors on the IM (EVAP purge solenoid, IACV, IAT, TPS).



17. Connect the throttle cable to the throttle cable bracket using the throttle cable holder. Adjust cable accordingly.




18. The stock fuel line feed line is too short stock. If you try connecting it to the IM it will be overstretched and will be touching the intake arm. I have searched on Honda-Tech for a solution and some people have suggested using a 1999-2000 Civic SI fuel feed line. THIS DOES NOT WORK! I bought it from the dealer and it is the same exact length and the GSR one. So, until I find a longer fuel line I have pushed the fuel filter away from the firewall. This gives the fuel line more slack so that it does not touch the intake arm. I used longer bolts to hold the filter on and used some nuts as spacers. Although this looks ghetto it is much safer than having your fuel line spring a leak from rubbing against the intake and being overstretched.



19. Install the Type R intake. A LS intake will also fit but after buying one I have learned that a LS intake is about Ľ” smaller in diameter than the GSR TB. Therefore a Type R intake should be used. The stock GSR intake arm will not fit because it is meant to be bent downward to connect to the lower GSR IM. I also used a zip-tie temporarily to give the fuel feed line additional room.



20. Install P28 chipped ECU. This seems like an often missed part of this modification. This new manifold does not have butterflies in it as well as the IAB sensor on it. The stock ECU will give a code because this sensor is not connected. Also, I have heard of dips in power around the time the butterflies would open because the ECU still thinks they are there. Make the most out of this IM mod and get a chipped P28 ECU to use with it.



DONE!


Feel free to let me know if any corrections need to be made. I am in no way perfect . I hope this is helpful for you all.


Modified by Honda Hick at 11:09 AM 1/21/2006

VTECisSeXY

very very nice

xprohx

*bookmarked*

Honda Hick

I can't comment yet on how it performs because the car isn't on the road yet but the quality of the manifold is very nice. Every fit great. Can't beat it for $190 shipped brand new. That's domestic car aftermarket prices right there

AlxSiR7

bad *** write-up.. good job man! i'll be purchasing the BLOX mani soon as well.

*gotta be careful with that iacv vac line that goes to the tb though.. when i took off my tb i let that hose down thinkin just a little coolant would drip out but when i came back into the garage there was coolant everywhere!

bee18see1

Awesome. BLOX IM is purchase after next on my list. Where'd you pick it up for $190?

debogsr

nice

Honda Hick

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by bee18see1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Awesome. BLOX IM is purchase after next on my list. Where'd you pick it up for $190?</TD></TR></TABLE>
AN-R
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1065989
It's $200 now shipped. They had a Christmas sale before.

blkonblkcrime

i wish i had this when i put mine on.

i need to buy a p28 since i have the power lose dip when the butterflies are suppose to open.

nice work man

IN VTEC

iTrader: (3)

You have to use the LS fuel feed line, or you can do it like I did and just hammer down the angle at the fuel filter so that it faces downwards a little more.

I also prefer switching to an OBD-1 JDM ITR throttle body. That saves you the trouble of hassling with the throttle pulley & spring swapping and the EVAP purge port.

Honda Hick

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by IN VTEC &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You have to use the LS fuel feed line, or you can do it like I did and just hammer down the angle at the fuel filter so that it faces downwards a little more.

I also prefer switching to an OBD-1 JDM ITR throttle body. That saves you the trouble of hassling with the throttle pulley & spring swapping and the EVAP purge port.</TD></TR></TABLE>

You sure the LS fuel feed line is longer? How much longer? Have any pics? I looked on my '90 and it looks like it's the same length as the GSR and SI. I don't want to have to buy and return another fuel line. Thanks.

AlxSiR7

won't the odb1 itr tb's have the fitv on the bottom?? i know my obd1 jdm gsr has one and that might cause a fitment problem.. i'm not sure though.

blkonblkcrime: yea it sucks we gotta get the p28 ecu along with the mani or else we could lose some power

chero112

iTrader: (1)

good right up , I like the step by step instruction....

blkonblkcrime

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by AlxSiR7 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
blkonblkcrime: yea it sucks we gotta get the p28 ecu along with the mani or else we could lose some power </TD></TR></TABLE>

i made 3whp more but you can see the dip the chart and then the dip when the crossover hits

searching for p28 right now

p.s. does any one know if the jdm gsr ecu has the dual butterfly thingy?

IN VTEC

iTrader: (3)

Oh yeah...that's the other reason to use the JDM ITR throttle body....no FITV.
The JDM ITR throttle body is a bit of a mish-mash of OBD-1 and OBD-2 and it just happens to work really well with OBD-1 GS-R's using the skunk2 or blox manifold. The only bad thing is that they're pretty expensive.

I also like switching to a B16 (or LS depending on if you have an oil cooler or not) main water pipe and thermostat housing or using just the OBD-2 P72 thermostat housing.

Oh, and the fuel line is longer on the gen3 Integra RS/LS/GS/SE's. My roommate bought one for his project and never used it.

Honda Hick

If you have no FITV doesn't your idle not go high when it's cold? That woulda kinda be a bitch holding the gas to warm up the car whenever it's cold.

IN VTEC

iTrader: (3)

I never had a problem with that. It cold-start fast idles just like it did before with the FITV.

AlxSiR7

yes, the jdm gsr ecu has the "dual butterflys thingy"

i didn't know that about the jdm itr tb.. i might have to look into that. that way i get bypass my fitv & get a large tb at the same time! which would work with the blox mani.. but then i still gotta get a chipped p28 and the cables and ****.. too much work!

HybridVisions

Good write up!

dc2integra

thats tight man

MikeTV

Excellent write up dude.........so are you satisifed with the Blox manifold ?

Honda Hick

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Eclipse spanker &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Excellent write up dude.........so are you satisifed with the Blox manifold ?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yea, I'm satisfied for what it is. I don't really know how it performs yet because I've only driven the car up and down my driveway. I still have to finish up the interior and some other things before registering and insuring it. It's a bit of a project car.

KingKash420

nice man!

thanks

greasemonkee

That's very informative and a great writeup. I did a blox swap this week also and would like to add that I did use the stock fuel rail studs. I also had to use about .135" worth of shims to get the fuel rail the right height (RC injectors).

For those of you do it yourselfers I bent and cut a piece of 50 cent angle iron to mount the gsr throttle cable saving me about 50 dollars.

Also, the Hondata gasket may need to be "trimmed" a little to match the ports. I found that I had to remove some material and put an index mark on it so it could be alligned properly when placing the manifold.

Interestingly enough, I mounted my evap solenoid on the firewall too. Does yours chatter while under part throttle? I don't know if I never heard it before because of where it was mounted or if there is a problem. I know it's driving me insane listening to the clicking. Any ideas are appreciated. My gsr is a 98 btw.
-

Honda Hick

Could you post a pic with the throttle cable routed how you did it?

Yea, I don't know about that evap chatter. Is it banging against something or is it internal? I mounted mine on the TB not the firewall BTW.