FG Two

I am putting my car back together and have come across some problems or concerns.... have searched

1. Clearance.... i have used all manual mounts, and i have not changed the welded brackets on the car... i have the motor/trans back in the car and the motor seems to be sitting close on the drivers side. the pulley barely fits between the motor and the frame.. the a/c pump pulley wouldnt fit because it was hitting the frame. so i used a hammer to make a dent in the frame.. this worked and i have about a 1/4in. clearance. is this right, should it be this close?

2. Wiring... does anyone know how to wire the clutch sensors on the pedal? i have an obd2 (96) and all the write ups have been about obd1 cars

please help.. thanks

BaddMo2002

try to get into contact with the guys who made up these instructions..
http://www.extremeredline.net/....html
good luck.

FG Two

i have read everything on this conversion that i know of, the internet write ups are not complete, i know that there is someone on here that has done this swap and can answer my questions.... please help

Subwarrior

I did the auto to 5 spd conversion in my 99 accord. I can tell you where the wires are supposed to go in refrence to the ecu if thats what oyu want to know. My car kept getting broken into so I bypassed all that crap and put in a hidden push button starter, which would also work for you if you want.

FG Two

neat idea with a push button start, but i am planning on expanding the auto shifter wires to do the job of the manual wires, since i have a 5th gen its suppose to be easier to do that way,

has anyone had clearance issues with the pulleys hitting the frame? help

raceACCORDingly

have you tried just moving the shift selector switch to park and starting up the engine and leaving all the wiring entact? i did that and bypassed the clutch interlock switch. also when i did the the conversion i left the block in and just dropped the tranny. left the driverside mount alone.

FG Two

i didnt change the drivers side mount, today i have put the front mount back in and it shows that the bracket for the auto and the manual transmission mounts are different (the ones on the frame, welded on).... i am not far enough along to start the car, i have not even begin to wire it or anything yet

cd555

I cant help you with the wiring because I bought a manual ECU but how did you remove the transmission? Did you do it the way Honda recommends or did you do some kind of shade tree mechanic deal. I did the auto to manual conversion myself and did not run into any clearance issues. Did you try to reuse the automatic trans mount or did you buy the correct manual mount? Just so you know, you do not have to do any welding of any kind with a 5th gen trans swap. (Well except for the piece that welds to the upper firewall underneath the dash that holds the top of the clutch pedal, but get creative and you can have something to hold it up just as well.) Dont listen to anyone that hasnt done the swap themselves or who had a shop do it for them. Everyone is quick to give advice yet dont have any real hands on experience. If you want I can take pictures of it, although it just looks like a stock manual accord.

Also good luck with drilling out the holes for the clutch master cylinder, my back was killing me after I got that done. Reverse lights were easy too, I just ran new wires to the center console from the transmission and hooked them up.

FG Two

finally someone who has done this before....
i took the motor and trans completely out ( i had to change my timing belt and stuff) then i put everytying together outside the car and put it in. thats when we noticed the motor was sitting low on the tranny side and close on the pulley side, today i put the front mount back in and i had to take the tranny mount off in order to do so, when i did and i let the motor sit naturally in place, the hole on the mount was a long way from the hole on the bracked welded to the cars frame ( i left the auto bracket in).

i did buy a new manual mount, the one that bolts to the transmission, or the bracket on the transmission, but it doesnt line up with the bracket on the frame

the bracket for the pedal bracket, i am going to use a long bolt with a big spacer, what did you do?

wiring: i also got a manual ecu... i know how to wire the reverse lights but i also want to have the clutch switch work like factory, i think i have it figured out though

farroutt did you do the swap on an obd2?

cd555

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Phat4drVtec &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">finally someone who has done this before....
i took the motor and trans completely out ( i had to change my timing belt and stuff) then i put everytying together outside the car and put it in. thats when we noticed the motor was sitting low on the tranny side and close on the pulley side, today i put the front mount back in and i had to take the tranny mount off in order to do so, when i did and i let the motor sit naturally in place, the hole on the mount was a long way from the hole on the bracked welded to the cars frame ( i left the auto bracket in).</TD></TR></TABLE>

Not being an *** or anything but are you sure that you recieved the correct mount?
http://www.hondaautomotivepart...84%29 The automatic mount is number 2 in the pic
http://www.hondaautomotivepart...81%29 The manual mount is number 1 in the pic. Also do you have the extra bracket labeled #4 in the pic?

Also the brackets that are part of the frame (unibody) are the same for auto or manual so that wouldnt make a difference. When you tighten up all the other mounts then the trans mount will go into place. I didnt take my engine out so there might be another procedure that Im not aware of, do you have a helms manual, if not you should really pick one up.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Phat4drVtec &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">the bracket for the pedal bracket, i am going to use a long bolt with a big spacer, what did you do?</TD></TR></TABLE> I used a Hyco bar (plumbing) mounted it up high by the gauge cluster and routed it down to the top of the clutch pedal assembly, it hasnt moved at all!

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Phat4drVtec &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
wiring: i also got a manual ecu... i know how to wire the reverse lights but i also want to have the clutch switch work like factory, i think i have it figured out though</TD></TR></TABLE> Its really not that hard to do (although thats the one thing I didnt bother with )

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Phat4drVtec &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">farroutt did you do the swap on an obd2?</TD></TR></TABLE>
YES! 1996 EX

raceACCORDingly

the tranny mount and rear mount are different on auto and manuals. you need a 5spd tranny mount. i first i tried to use the rear auto mount but i couldnt get all the holes to line up and could only get a few bolts through and even with the rear auto mount i still had no clearance issues. it is really odd that you are having clearance issues on the tbelt side.

from all the people that have done the conversion and posted on web boards all of them have their engines sitting a bit askewed on 5th gens.

on 5th gens in order to have the engine sitting perfectly even you have to cut and welded the auto tranny mount bracket and out a manual one or drill a hole higer up on the tranny mount bracket so that the engine will raise up some on the tranny side.

i did it myself on a 94 accord so i dont know anything about obd2 but i have a feeling that you should be able to do the exact same thing i did. all i did for wiring was remove the TCU and auto ECU and put in a manual ECU and left the TCU out.

under the automatic shifter theres a white rectangular shifter switch, move the shifter switch so that your shift indicator shows that its in Park and leave it at that cuz when I didnt do this the clutch interlock wouldnt let me get my key out of the ignition but if the shifter switch is wired to stayed in Park it will bypass the clutch interlock. I'll take some pics of the switch later to clarify. Here are some pics that I took while I was doing the converison. only if you look closely at my engine bay you can see that its a bit askewed on lower on the tranny side but you wouldnt really notice unless i told you to look for it. im going to fix this by modifying the auto tranny mount bracket so i can raise the tranny side bit. ive heard of people going threw tons of axles cuz they left the engine sitting askewed.

exedy 3puck cerametallic thin sprung racing clutch and hd pressure plate.





Modified by raceACCORDingly at 3:26 PM 1/18/2005

raceACCORDingly

im taking out my DIY sawed off short shifter and adapter off to put in a 4bidden one so i figured id take a couple pics since i have the console out again.



if you see this under your auto shifter this will save you a headache of wiring. move the little clip to the Park position and see if that takes care of your wiring. if not then g'luck cuz theres a ton of wires behind the switch that you would have to jump together and then on top of that you'd have to do all the clutch switch wiring.


overview shot

FG Two

i do have the correct trans mount, the auto one wont even bolt on the the trans, different bolt pattern

there are 2 different rear manual trans, engine mounts..... one looks like the auto mount because it is tall and big, to go with the larger mount, there is a taller manual bracket, the larger mount is for the ex,

a smaller mount is for the lx, which has its own bracket, i know this because i got the motor out of an lx and used its rear bracket, but i ordered the ex manual rear motor mount, which is taller, so i ordered the ex bracket.

anyone else notice this? which rear mount/bracket did yall use?
did you have a hard time making the mounts slide into place?

thanks for the help so far, i would post pics of my problem but they are too large and i dont have them with me today

raceACCORDingly

the EX manual rear mount looks like the an auto rear mount. id stick with the LX mount you have.

FG Two

i only have the lx bracket, i didnt want to buy another mount since i had just got the ex mount, so i got the ex bracket, i dont think it would matter since both should put the engine where it is suppose to be

raceACCORDingly

i dont see why it wouldnt work either but most people change it cuz EX rear mounts have that pump/adjuster whatever its is that has the valve and tube going through it. its a POS and cost alot if you ever have to replace it.

how are you going about with the reverse light? i havent really looked into this much cuz i dont really care but i know theres a reverse light switch on the tranny with 2 connectors, but i dont quite remember which plug off the harness(auto) i have to splice/connect it to...

been reversing w/o them for quite some time...

FG Two

i dont remember off hand but you have to extend 2 wire from the shifter harness, on the bottom row of the large plug, i dont remember which ones but you can supposedly connect them to the switch on the tranny, dont quote me though

Accord_Kid

holy crap man, good luck with that. i'm looking into this same swap with my 96 lx accord. My tranny's about to give in, i figured why not do the auto to manual conversion.

FG Two

it finally runs, not because im stupid, i just aint had time to work on it..... there is no wiring to get it running, only wiring to make it work like factory and reverse lights... anyway, all i did was swap to the manual ecu and plug in the auto gear selector box while it was in the park position, fired up the first try, ran pretty strong too... should be done by the weekend

Accord_Kid

so what was it that those intructions did not mention?

FG Two

those write ups arent really instructions, they are just parts of the process of doing the swap, the write up does not mention many small things... like the 5th gen tranny mount bracket are the same for auto and manual, this is not true, you can use the auto tranny mount bracket, but the motor will sit lower on that side, you need to either buy the part from honda or make a bracket and redrill the holes for the mount bolt... there is also the clutch pedal bracket mounting, the auto does not have the upper mounting point, you have to make something or use a screw and a spacer, if you dont the bracket will be flimsy, there are many other small things the write up does not mention but they do a good job of explaining the process, dont listen to everything you read online

sinister2c

I just did this swap 2 months ago.

Reverse lights...you run the two wires from the tranny switch to the harness for the auto gear shifter plug. I just plugged it to the two pins that activate the reverse lights.
I think the plug for the Lock Up Solenoids for the Auto is the same as the Manual Reverse plug. On Civics I used this plug and cut the two wires at the ECU plug and run them to the auto plug to save some wire routing time thru the firewall.

The neutral safety switch I just jumped with a piece of wire, i would have wired it to the clutch but i didnt have the harness plug for the switch on the clutch.

I also jumped the two pins for the Park indicator.

Here is a diagram


The upper clutch bracket....I used a long bolt and drilled a hole and used a big spacer. You will have to remove the wiper cover to access the hole to put the bolt thru. And use four 12mm nuts as spacers between the clutch bracket and the firewall too.

One of these days I will redrill the transmission mount higher and to the left more right where the pitch weld is. but its running fine right now so I wont mess with it yet. But the crank pulley is really close to the frame on my H22. it is also putting some stress on the front lower mount because its not sitting level.

The rest of the parts are basically bolt on including shifter and linkages. All the extra wires for the auto tranny can either be cut off or tucked away under the distributor.

raceACCORDingly

Phat... good to hear that the same wiring method worked and that its up and running.

now for reverse light... so just extend the two reverse light switch wires through the firewall and then strip the wire ends and stick them in terminal G and H? does it matters which color wire goes into which terminal? i need to do this ive been running w/o reverse lights for quite some time.

FG Two

its working and wired properly, here is how i did it, i will do a complete write up one day...

for reverse lights, extend the yellow and green/black wires from auto shifter selector to the wires on the revers light switch on the tranny. ( colors do not matter, its just completing the circuit)

for the clutch switch, extend the big white/black and white/red wires from auto shifter selector to the blue/red and blue/black(i think) wires on the clutch switch

for the ignition key, hardwire the green/white and black wires together

for cruise controll, extend the pink and black (same black as ignition) wires from auto shifter selector to the pink and black wires on the other clutch switch


i still have not gotten the upper clutch bracket bolt on, you can reach the inner fire wall by removing the black plastic behind the wipers?? it doesnt look like it, got any pics?thanks

Accord_Kid

i hope that one day comes soon, i'm planning on doing this REAL soon, as soon as i acquire the parts.

Sorry i'm asking questions that seem obvious but...the wiring is the same for OBD1 and OBD2 right? all thats different is going to be the ECU, i drive a 96 therefore i need a OBD2 manual ecu...correct?

again, i apologize for the meticulous questions, i'm just really up for this

TIA