CivicEJ1

At what PSI have you guys run before your head start lifting for daily driven car.

5psi-8psi-10psi-15psi?



Modified by CivicEJ1 at 9:50 PM 12/24/2004

Street Ghost

I have a D16Z6 EJ1 and my head started lifting at 5.5psi. It didn't do it before at the same boost level, then one day I noticed my overflow bottle was a little above MAX. That's when I found out my head began to lift.

ImportHatch

Mine was fine at 9 psi for over 1.5 years.

Yager-

BEEYOND

sohc vtec are notorious for head lifting when turbocharged. I am talking about what've i've seen and experienced in my 9yr experience in this industry.

best remedy before turbocharging a sohc/sohc vtec is use ARP headstuds...do this and it'll remain safe..... 8-9psi with fmu 310cc or stock 240cc is good to go...i'd prefer 310cc though!!! better safe then sorry...

ladysman

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by lsvtecpower &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
best remedy before turbocharging a sohc/sohc vtec is use ARP headstuds...do this and it'll remain safe..... 8-9psi with fmu 310cc or stock 240cc is good to go...i'd prefer 310cc though!!! better safe then sorry... </TD></TR></TABLE>

Best prevention method is tuning. (Conservative timing with proper A/F ratio) FMU and 310cc injectors aren't going to cut it. After 9 years you should know that by now.

093turbo16

iTrader: (2)

this is the third thread on this topic today.. haha. My conclusion is ARPs or a sleeved block. haha most do the arps.

CivicEJ1

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ladysman &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Best prevention method is tuning. (Conservative timing with proper A/F ratio) FMU and 310cc injectors aren't going to cut it. After 9 years you should know that by now. </TD></TR></TABLE>


Good Tuning... I would guess....

beerbongskickass

I was running 10psi (215whp) for about 8 months without any problems, stock d16z6 with about 95k miles, head has never been removed. I had a shitty internal wastegate though and even with a boost controller I couldn't go any higher than 10psi. I wanted to go higher though, so I did a little modification to my WG arm, but now everytime I hit full boost it will spike and then drop (14psi to 12psi, 12psi to 10 psi, etc...). I ran about 12psi (230whp) for a month and ended up slightly blowing my head gasket or lifting my head. The car actually drove fine and the only problem I was having was my overflow tank filling up. My tuning is great and the timing is very conservative (Uberdata and DSM 450cc injectors), so I know that wasn't the problem. I am guessing the problem was my boost spiking to 14-15psi and the droping to 12psi every time I hit full boost.

green91

is it possible to install the head studs without replacing the head gasket?

BEEYOND

it works with low boost setups below 10psi.....I have cool eprom turbo chips for p28s that work very well....put chip in and boommmmm nice a/f!!!!

what i really meant was not just fmu, 310.... you and i know that it's a bit more then that bro....always have vafc, mix 110w/93octane, etc etc....hehe!!!

the secret is out!!!!! LMAO

96-EJ6 B18C

6 months and counting on my stock internal A6 at anywhere between 7-10.5 psi, and the occasional trip to 14 psi. mid to low 11 a/f's in boost thanks to a set of 450's and uberdata.

p0gi

never had any head lifting problems- 50k and still going strong running 7-10 psi w stock head bolts.

RyanEJ8

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by lsvtecpower &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">it works with low boost setups below 10psi.....I have cool eprom turbo chips for p28s that work very well....put chip in and boommmmm nice a/f!!!!

what i really meant was not just fmu, 310.... you and i know that it's a bit more then that bro....always have vafc, mix 110w/93octane, etc etc....hehe!!!

the secret is out!!!!! LMAO </TD></TR></TABLE>

You're joking right?

RotiEatter

iTrader: (1)

Mine started lifting at 4 psi, but then again this is a 217,000 mile D16Z6

yellowturbo

the head doesnt lift !!!!!!!!!!!!! The weak sleeves of the D16 moves and scratch the HG... thats the problem... even if you put an elephant on the head the sleeves will move.

The distorsion of the sleeves will cause HG failure... stop talking about lifting... it makes me sick...

CivicEJ1

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by yellowturbo &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">the head doesnt lift !!!!!!!!!!!!! The weak sleeves of the D16 moves and scratch the HG... thats the problem... even if you put an elephant on the head the sleeves will move.

The distorsion of the sleeves will cause HG failure... stop talking about lifting... it makes me sick...</TD></TR></TABLE>

Really... is this true?

VTC_CiViC

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by yellowturbo &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> even if you put an elephant on the head the sleeves will move.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Have you verified this? I was pics of an Indian Elephant sitting on a SOHC VC and still having it blow a HG.

RyanEJ8

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by yellowturbo &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">the head doesnt lift !!!!!!!!!!!!! The weak sleeves of the D16 moves and scratch the HG... thats the problem... even if you put an elephant on the head the sleeves will move.

The distorsion of the sleeves will cause HG failure... stop talking about lifting... it makes me sick...</TD></TR></TABLE>

Who told you it was the D Series sleeves that are causing the blown headgaskets? The D Series sleeves are as strong if not stronger than B Series sleeves. I highly doubt this is the problem people are having.

beerbongskickass

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RyanCivic2000 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Who told you it was the D Series sleeves that are causing the blown headgaskets? The D Series sleeves are as strong if not stronger than B Series sleeves. I highly doubt this is the problem people are having.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I did a little investigating... http://www.evans-tuning.com/viewtopic.php?t=762

According to this thread boosted-hybrid and somebody also claimed they talked to earl and he said the sleeves walking under boost and that it's not a head lifting issue. The thread also said Marc (CivicRyda2k) still had problems even after installing ARP's.

I think somebody should test out BH's idea...

"I have no evidence to support my idea, but from an engineering standpoint I believe that the SOHC block structure is not as torsionally stiff as the b-series/h-series. Look at the block webbing, compare with a b-series. Under boost the block twists and #1 and #4 cylinder are able to be shifted, and boost pressure is able to get into the sleeves pressurizing the coolant jackets, therefore having the pressure of the coolant system greater than what the radiator cap is rated for and coolant fills up the overflow tank. The only way to test this would be to install three axis strain gages onto the block at multiple points, and do a strain test under boost. I would be willing to bet that is what is occuring, but its only speculation."

platinum00

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by green91 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">is it possible to install the head studs without replacing the head gasket?</TD></TR></TABLE>

NO. dont even try it. you will just end up blowing the gasket.

it's only a 45 min job if that, why cut corners.

platinum.

yellowturbo

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RyanCivic2000 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Who told you it was the D Series sleeves that are causing the blown headgaskets? The D Series sleeves are as strong if not stronger than B Series sleeves. I highly doubt this is the problem people are having.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I maybe dont have the title of the D serie king or whatever but when I say something thats not from what I read on the net even if there is many good source on Honda-tech. Dont take this personaly...

Who told me.... I saw this of my eyes and by experience I know what im talking about thats all. Everytime I had a leak with my engine it was between the sleeves and the HG not between the head and the HG... And I clearly saw the marks on the HG. My head and block were perfectly straight, using ARP studs correctly torqued down. I could not tell you why but the D serie sleeves moves under high stress compare to the B...

Anyway... my car is running fine from what I learned and what I did and thats my opinion on this subject that people want to solve by torquing the head studs at 75 lbs ft and by using copper spray and all king of gasket and even after doing this procedure like 3 times in a row they will continue to have problem ...

yellowturbo

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by beerbongskickass &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

I did a little investigating... http://www.evans-tuning.com/viewtopic.php?t=762

According to this thread boosted-hybrid and somebody also claimed they talked to earl and he said the sleeves walking under boost and that it's not a head lifting issue. The thread also said Marc (CivicRyda2k) still had problems even after installing ARP's.

I think somebody should test out BH's idea...

"I have no evidence to support my idea, but from an engineering standpoint I believe that the SOHC block structure is not as torsionally stiff as the b-series/h-series. Look at the block webbing, compare with a b-series. Under boost the block twists and #1 and #4 cylinder are able to be shifted, and boost pressure is able to get into the sleeves pressurizing the coolant jackets, therefore having the pressure of the coolant system greater than what the radiator cap is rated for and coolant fills up the overflow tank. The only way to test this would be to install three axis strain gages onto the block at multiple points, and do a strain test under boost. I would be willing to bet that is what is occuring, but its only speculation."</TD></TR></TABLE>




thats what im trying to explain... : the sleeves are walking under boost or high load. Damn its not easy for a french guy to explain all that stuff loll !!

CivicEJ1

Will milling the SOHC block (top part) so the sleeves and block are the exact same height solve this problem?

yellowturbo

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CivicEJ1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Will milling the SOHC block (top part) so the sleeves and block are the exact same height solve this problem?</TD></TR></TABLE>

if I read your post correctly... this is supposed to be like that from factory...

ATS*Mark

i know my sleeves dont move , i have a closed deck aebs block , and i still have this problem , but like ive said . i think its my warped head lol.