90da6

how many miles should you put on the motor before really hitting it hard. (i've heard as much as 2500)?

sleevedgsr

true 2500-3000!

90da6

thanks for the confirmation.

JDM DERF

i was told it was only 1000, like when you break in a brand new car.

marsbike

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by allmotorteggie &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i was told it was only 1000, like when you break in a brand new car.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yeah, about 1000. You really shouldn't need more than that, but there are many different schools for breaking in an engine. Search "break in engine" in archives. You'll find it says this

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> Search Results

Your search for break in engine returned 44 results.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

shamoo

Well, is it a full rebuild? Or did you just slap on a Vtec head and that's it?

Full rebuild you will want to be quite careful with it and follow proper break-in for about 1000 miles at least. If the motor wasn't rebuilt, you don't really need to break in much at all. Just drive it easy for a few hundred miles to make sure everything is working okay.

There is a lot of misconception with breaking in a new car from the dealer. Do you know that the motors are run for many hours in the factor at different load levels already? (Before they are even put in the car) I guess you can be careful to break in suspension/brakes/what-have-you, but the motor is pretty broken in already.

SlowDCtwo

I was told that you should break in an engine at the rpm's that you will be using the engine at. just like if you buy a car from a grandma, it's not going to be able take a beating.

jdm_bones

iTrader: (5)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SlowDCtwo &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I was told that you should break in an engine at the rpm's that you will be using the engine at. just like if you buy a car from a grandma, it's not going to be able take a beating.</TD></TR></TABLE>
What tha! Yup, we all know this makes sense^ Come now, that is not true! But if you believe in this, why don't you go ahead and break in a brand new B18C5 at 8,500...I'll be here waiting for your next thread, that will read..."MY DUMBASS SPUN A BEARING AND BROKE A VALVE, WHILE BRAKING IN MY NEW B18C5" get your facts stright and then post

coronadrinker

i broke in my LS/V by running it hard up and down to power band. car runs great, no smoke good compression etc. break it in hard if you are going to drive it hard!

do a search on breaking in new motors and you'll find a write up on breaking in a motor hard and why you SHOULD.


just my .02, i guess

btech

i just put new pistons and rods on my car. about 1 size over. and i was told to drive around for about 500 miles before he can dyno it. also do mix in the revs between 3000 and 4000. not to go over 5000 or be in boost.

it was tempting and i actually went over 5k and went on boost... i wish i hadn't.

DC2 Mang

you beat the hell out of it right after 2 heating cycles (let it idle until it gets warm then shut it off)

vary it through the rpm range in second gear and let the car decelerate using the tranny, this will make the rings expand and seat properly to the cylinder walls

after about 20 or 30 miles of beating the hell out of it take it back home and change the oil

Brick Top

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DC2 Mang &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you beat the hell out of it right after 2 heating cycles (let it idle until it gets warm then shut it off)

vary it through the rpm range in second gear and let the car decelerate using the tranny, this will make the rings expand and seat properly to the cylinder walls

after about 20 or 30 miles of beating the hell out of it take it back home and change the oil </TD></TR></TABLE>

Spectrum24x

10 miles.... tops...
you dont think they really hit it when it was dyno tuned?
A motor should be ran right away the way its going to be ran forever...

97itypeR

i cant find the link, but there was this site where this guy tested diff ways to break in motors, he states that to break in a brand new motor, its perfectly fine to smash on it (speeding/taking to high RPM etc) but occasionally, not all the time, but he says its fine, its drive it as if u would after its broken in.

something about u have to hone the walls of the cylender with the piston and if u just cruise for the first 1000 miles, u dont seal it as perfect as u would when just driving as u would after its broken in. doing so, allows u to unlock more of its hp, if u just cruise, u might lose a couple of HP after ur done with the 1000 cruise point.


but thats him, ive never ownd a new car, so i would not know what to do. most likely cruise it for 1000 miles just to be safe

98GSRrdr

I really dont know how to break it in ive heard the same as everyone else .. 2500 miles dont go over w/e RPM , but i do know for a fact that at my work we have 2 F150's that were brandnew a 2 years ago , they never go over 40 miles an hour TOPS and thats rare , they both run like **** now and arent going to last much longer. Both had oil changes and everything as needed ... I dunno why just an idea

DC2 Mang

break in the motor how it is going to be driven frequently

if you baby it in the beginning then it will want to be babied its whole life

if you beat the hell out of it in the beginning then it will want to have the hell beaten out of it its whole life

Spectrum24x

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 98GSRrdr &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I really dont know how to break it in ive heard the same as everyone else .. 2500 miles dont go over w/e RPM , but i do know for a fact that at my work we have 2 F150's that were brandnew a 2 years ago , they never go over 40 miles an hour TOPS and thats rare , they both run like **** now and arent going to last much longer. Both had oil changes and everything as needed ... I dunno why just an idea </TD></TR></TABLE>

thats just coz there fords.. =D

D-meet07

Yeah ive heard something similar.

drive for:
20 miles- do an oil change
100 miles- oil change
500 miles- oil change
1000 miles-and oil change.

im sure you could skip a couple of those oil changes but your pretty much making sure there are no shaving. It would help to get a magnetic drain plug as well.

also do highway and city driving. when your trying to slow down make sure the tranny is doing all the work. tap the gas pedal once when downshifting to a light.

me personally I wouldnt beat on it until about 1000 miles. But I would defenitly work my way up in the rpms as I reach the 1000miles marker.

used motor parts dont need a break in period. Just occasionally check it to see if everything is straight.

good luck

dohcdelsol93

don't forget to break your engine in with petrol based motor oil. Synthetic motor oil is too slick and can prevent your rings from seating properly. After the first 100 miles it's ok to go back to full synthetic.

D-meet07

Forgot to add that....

hon2984

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by D-meet07 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Yeah ive heard something similar.

drive for:
20 miles- do an oil change
100 miles- oil change
500 miles- oil change
1000 miles-and oil change.

im sure you could skip a couple of those oil changes but your pretty much making sure there are no shaving. It would help to get a magnetic drain plug as well.

also do highway and city driving. when your trying to slow down make sure the tranny is doing all the work. tap the gas pedal once when downshifting to a light.

me personally I wouldnt beat on it until about 1000 miles. But I would defenitly work my way up in the rpms as I reach the 1000miles marker.

used motor parts dont need a break in period. Just occasionally check it to see if everything is straight.

good luck</TD></TR></TABLE>

Are you the manager of a jiffy lube? Trying to sell oil changes? Cmon dude aluminum is not magnetic! what good is that plug really gonna do? Are you forgetting about the screen on the pick up tube and or the oil filter?

I would think break in periods are a special to each project. Because of possible clutch/flywheel break in. I dont want to beat up my clutch, so i'm gonna drive it the same as anyother day to break the clutch in, but i will be doing some smooth accellerating decelerating. I also plan to let the car idle up to operating temp before driving. And a 500 mile first oil change.

egsleepercivic

here is some good info on breaking in engines

http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

serio_ENDLESS

here is how we do it here in vegas fully redone 500 miles nonsynthetic 10 30 oil drive at different ranges not or 6500 then change oil to a synthetic blend or full and beat the hell out of it and this is how i do it aswell as dennis from LDL speed shop in las vegas NV

Solster

ok its an old tread but

every time i have ever seen/done a engine break in it has always been the same

Add Zinc Oxide Breakin additive to motor Oil (Oil companies Stoped put in zinc around 2005)
this is needed to help the cam shaft and bearings form to the rotating parts

Fully rebiult engine: First fire warm up engine at idel rev to 2000~2500 RPM and hold it for 10 min. idel down and shut off for 15~20 Min restart engine and repeat.
This will alow the rings to Start seatting and help to seal the head gasket.

then drive the car around agressive but don't thrash on it for the next 500~1000 miles depending on if you used a NEW cam or cylender head as the Thin layer of zinc is the only bearing you get in most over head cam engines.

drive the car more and more agressivly every 500 miles till you have 2500 miles on the new Engine then change the oil and drive it as you wish.

keep in mind that the oil screen is the ONLY defence for your oil pump the filter is for the rest of the engine and you should use a Good quality filter like a wix or Ultra8 if your auto parts store doesn't carry wix the Napa Gold line of oil filters is Made by Wix for napa

mike703

youre correct aluminum is not magnetic BUT cylinder walls and rings are not aluminum FYI. you have to wear the peaks down thus creating small particles of steel which is magnetic FYI.