Wooohoooo, installed EuroR IM!!!
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Wooohoooo, installed EuroR IM!!!
Well after three straight days of work, (more than 8 hours spent driving back and forth to and from my welder's house) I got on my euroR IM and finally fixed my transmission.
I would give you an extensive write up w/ pics, but you can thank one person on this board's lazy *** for not bringing his digi cam. Hmm, 12 hours on friday, 18hours saturday, 13 hours sunday... aren't you supposed to rest on the weekend? Anyways, I've got some valuable inside info for anyone doing the EuroR IM swap.
I'll post it in the morning when i'm nearly sane.
I would give you an extensive write up w/ pics, but you can thank one person on this board's lazy *** for not bringing his digi cam. Hmm, 12 hours on friday, 18hours saturday, 13 hours sunday... aren't you supposed to rest on the weekend? Anyways, I've got some valuable inside info for anyone doing the EuroR IM swap.
I'll post it in the morning when i'm nearly sane.
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Re: Wooohoooo, installed EuroR IM!!! (DarkKnight[DMD])
Definetly post some pics/info. This is something I too have been considering. Notice a diff in power?
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Re: Wooohoooo, installed EuroR IM!!! (1SICJDM)
I'm not going to say anything about the differences in power b/c I have been running an obd2 stock civic ex ecu for the last two months. So this thing is completely untuned.
I will say that there is fabrication necessary to get this thing working. At the very least you will need a rotary grinder, some scrap metal, and some creativity to get this thing working. Oh and a welder wouldn't hurt either
Anyway, my car is in perfect working order, just need to get this biatch tuned and see what it can make. I was at or near 200whp before w/ just i/h/e & chipped ecu. New setup will be i/h/e, euroR IM, uberdata tuned p28. I'm personally hoping for 205whp, with nice tq curve. My tuner thinks he can pull 210-220whp.
Yea, I guess all tuners are cocky asses.
I'll keep you updated and get some pics as soon as pat mcgroin gets off his lazy *** with his digi cam.
Extra Tips for installing the euroR....
You can use the fuel rail bolts from a obd1 f22, and reuse the spacers (cut them in half so you have two spacers from one stock one) from the stock h22 IM to set the fuel rail down, I'll post up pics soon. I used a piece of aluminum stock from Lowe's as the mounting surface. I just matched it's length to the stock H22 fuel rail. drilled out holes for the bolts coming from the IM to the aluminum stock and then drilled out holes for the bolts securing the fuel rail on top of the aluminum stock. Measure twice, drill once.
Largest part of the job was porting out the injectors on the 'gasket side' of the IM. You need to do this b/c the stock injectors are not as long as the euroR versions and they sit pretty far recessed. Unless you want the fuel to spray the port and drip into your chamber, you'll need to port out this area. There's no real way to show how to do this, but you'll need a dremmel and some patience. It took easily two hours to do all four and two brand new bits. I kinda of matched up the Hondata Gasket and then ported inside from there.
Throttle body: I ended up having to weld a couple of small areas to block off exposed ports. If someone can post up a pics of the IM side of a stock H22 TB I can show you exactly what I did.
Those are the major things and the most tricky. I'll post up some more info later.
Modified by DarkKnight[DMD] at 1:58 PM 10/11/2004
I will say that there is fabrication necessary to get this thing working. At the very least you will need a rotary grinder, some scrap metal, and some creativity to get this thing working. Oh and a welder wouldn't hurt either
Anyway, my car is in perfect working order, just need to get this biatch tuned and see what it can make. I was at or near 200whp before w/ just i/h/e & chipped ecu. New setup will be i/h/e, euroR IM, uberdata tuned p28. I'm personally hoping for 205whp, with nice tq curve. My tuner thinks he can pull 210-220whp.
Yea, I guess all tuners are cocky asses.
I'll keep you updated and get some pics as soon as pat mcgroin gets off his lazy *** with his digi cam.
Extra Tips for installing the euroR....
You can use the fuel rail bolts from a obd1 f22, and reuse the spacers (cut them in half so you have two spacers from one stock one) from the stock h22 IM to set the fuel rail down, I'll post up pics soon. I used a piece of aluminum stock from Lowe's as the mounting surface. I just matched it's length to the stock H22 fuel rail. drilled out holes for the bolts coming from the IM to the aluminum stock and then drilled out holes for the bolts securing the fuel rail on top of the aluminum stock. Measure twice, drill once.
Largest part of the job was porting out the injectors on the 'gasket side' of the IM. You need to do this b/c the stock injectors are not as long as the euroR versions and they sit pretty far recessed. Unless you want the fuel to spray the port and drip into your chamber, you'll need to port out this area. There's no real way to show how to do this, but you'll need a dremmel and some patience. It took easily two hours to do all four and two brand new bits. I kinda of matched up the Hondata Gasket and then ported inside from there.
Throttle body: I ended up having to weld a couple of small areas to block off exposed ports. If someone can post up a pics of the IM side of a stock H22 TB I can show you exactly what I did.
Those are the major things and the most tricky. I'll post up some more info later.
Modified by DarkKnight[DMD] at 1:58 PM 10/11/2004
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Re: Wooohoooo, installed EuroR IM!!! (DarkKnight[DMD])
Pretty involved, but from what I have seen and heard its well worth the effort! Thanks for the pointers!
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Re: Wooohoooo, installed EuroR IM!!! (uncle)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 1SICJDM »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Pretty involved, but from what I have seen and heard its well worth the effort! Thanks for the pointers!</TD></TR></TABLE>
Definitely, with any kind of high flow mods, i.e. cams, headwork, high comp pistons, I'd say either modification of the stock IM (porting and what not) or installation of the EuroR is def the way to go. The stock IM just dies way to early to flow well up high.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by uncle »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Sweet! lets see some pics.</TD></TR></TABLE>
As soon as Pat McGroin brings over his camera, you'll see this pretty lady IM in action.
Definitely, with any kind of high flow mods, i.e. cams, headwork, high comp pistons, I'd say either modification of the stock IM (porting and what not) or installation of the EuroR is def the way to go. The stock IM just dies way to early to flow well up high.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by uncle »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Sweet! lets see some pics.</TD></TR></TABLE>
As soon as Pat McGroin brings over his camera, you'll see this pretty lady IM in action.
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Re: Wooohoooo, installed EuroR IM!!! (hondaZvic)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by hondaZvic »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">dammit!!!!!!!!! PAT MCGROIN!!!!!!! WHERE ARE U??!?!!?!??!?!
[whisper]this isnt kenny is it?[/whisper]</TD></TR></TABLE>
lol, no, it's out buddy jose. He's just lazy sometimes.
As for the car it runs great, even with the shitty obd2 ecu, it really starts to come alive around 3k. But like I said, I'll reserve my final judgement for after the tuning session.
Just waiting on kenny to socket the p28 and we can get started
[whisper]this isnt kenny is it?[/whisper]</TD></TR></TABLE>
lol, no, it's out buddy jose. He's just lazy sometimes.
As for the car it runs great, even with the shitty obd2 ecu, it really starts to come alive around 3k. But like I said, I'll reserve my final judgement for after the tuning session.
Just waiting on kenny to socket the p28 and we can get started
#10
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Re: Wooohoooo, installed EuroR IM!!! (DarkKnight[DMD])
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DarkKnight[DMD »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">]My tuner thinks he can pull 210-220whp.
Yea, I guess all tuners are cocky asses.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Bleh, Tuners make the car.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DarkKnight[DMD »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">]You can use the fuel rail bolts from a obd1 f22</TD></TR></TABLE>
F22B2 2.2 16V SOHC PGM-FI 2156 130hp@5300rpm 139tq@4200rpm '94-'95 Accord DX/LX (USA)
B20z use the same style, but I will compare the part numbers to see if they are the same.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DarkKnight[DMD »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">] and reuse the spacers (cut them in half so you have two spacers from one stock one) from the stock h22 IM to set the fuel rail down,</TD></TR></TABLE>
They are 3/8" (after you cut them down, They are 3/4" before). Now, I used 1/4" thick aluminum, so if you use more/less thick stock, the spacers will change accordingly.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DarkKnight[DMD »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">] I used a piece of aluminum stock from Lowe's as the mounting surface. I just matched it's length to the stock H22 fuel rail. drilled out holes for the bolts coming from the IM to the aluminum stock and then drilled out holes for the bolts securing the fuel rail on top of the aluminum stock. Measure twice, drill once.</TD></TR></TABLE>
The aluminum stock I used for Darkknight's car was 1/4" thick by 1" wide. Now, you can go narrower than 1" (wide). His was wider than it needed to be. I would say 1/2"-3/4" would work. I would not go thinner than a 1/4" (thick). Remember this is your fuel rail, if it breaks, fuel will spray everywhere and start a fire. The bolts I used to mount the fuel rail to the rail I made were 6mm x 1.0 x 40mm, with lock nuts to go with the bolts.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DarkKnight[DMD »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">]Throttle body: I ended up having to weld a couple of small areas to block off exposed ports. If someone can post up a pics of the IM side of a stock H22 TB I can show you exactly what I did.</TD></TR></TABLE>
This is a F22b2 TB, but you get the point. The top set of lines (the two highest lines) are for use with a ITR TB gasket. It is highest because the ITR gasket seals highest than the H22a's do. The lower line is for what you have to weld (and use the H22a gasket). Now, you do not have to (and should not, because the Fast idle will not work anymore) weld the ports shut, just make the weld flush with the TB gasket mating surface. I would have this welded because JB weld is ****. Also, You should RTV sealant at the welded parts to insure a good seal.
NOTE: You only have to do this IF your TB has a Mechanical fast idle valve.
Why do you this? Simple, The Euro-R uses a 3-wire IACV that controls the cold high idle RPM, so it does not Fast idle valve (circled in red in the pic).
Also, I came up with a different design for the IACV plate than 2point6 did, so I will try to get pics.
Yea, I guess all tuners are cocky asses.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Bleh, Tuners make the car.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DarkKnight[DMD »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">]You can use the fuel rail bolts from a obd1 f22</TD></TR></TABLE>
F22B2 2.2 16V SOHC PGM-FI 2156 130hp@5300rpm 139tq@4200rpm '94-'95 Accord DX/LX (USA)
B20z use the same style, but I will compare the part numbers to see if they are the same.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DarkKnight[DMD »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">] and reuse the spacers (cut them in half so you have two spacers from one stock one) from the stock h22 IM to set the fuel rail down,</TD></TR></TABLE>
They are 3/8" (after you cut them down, They are 3/4" before). Now, I used 1/4" thick aluminum, so if you use more/less thick stock, the spacers will change accordingly.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DarkKnight[DMD »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">] I used a piece of aluminum stock from Lowe's as the mounting surface. I just matched it's length to the stock H22 fuel rail. drilled out holes for the bolts coming from the IM to the aluminum stock and then drilled out holes for the bolts securing the fuel rail on top of the aluminum stock. Measure twice, drill once.</TD></TR></TABLE>
The aluminum stock I used for Darkknight's car was 1/4" thick by 1" wide. Now, you can go narrower than 1" (wide). His was wider than it needed to be. I would say 1/2"-3/4" would work. I would not go thinner than a 1/4" (thick). Remember this is your fuel rail, if it breaks, fuel will spray everywhere and start a fire. The bolts I used to mount the fuel rail to the rail I made were 6mm x 1.0 x 40mm, with lock nuts to go with the bolts.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DarkKnight[DMD »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">]Throttle body: I ended up having to weld a couple of small areas to block off exposed ports. If someone can post up a pics of the IM side of a stock H22 TB I can show you exactly what I did.</TD></TR></TABLE>
This is a F22b2 TB, but you get the point. The top set of lines (the two highest lines) are for use with a ITR TB gasket. It is highest because the ITR gasket seals highest than the H22a's do. The lower line is for what you have to weld (and use the H22a gasket). Now, you do not have to (and should not, because the Fast idle will not work anymore) weld the ports shut, just make the weld flush with the TB gasket mating surface. I would have this welded because JB weld is ****. Also, You should RTV sealant at the welded parts to insure a good seal.
NOTE: You only have to do this IF your TB has a Mechanical fast idle valve.
Why do you this? Simple, The Euro-R uses a 3-wire IACV that controls the cold high idle RPM, so it does not Fast idle valve (circled in red in the pic).
Also, I came up with a different design for the IACV plate than 2point6 did, so I will try to get pics.
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Re: Wooohoooo, installed EuroR IM!!! (turbogixxer)
I guess no one cares about a competing IM. *mumbles* junk2 *mumbles*
Anyways, Kenny finally finished socketing the p28 last night so hopefully we will start a/f tuning the hog tonight. I'll let you know how it goes.
Anyways, Kenny finally finished socketing the p28 last night so hopefully we will start a/f tuning the hog tonight. I'll let you know how it goes.
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Re: Wooohoooo, installed EuroR IM!!! (hondaZvic)
Yes. I'm (with turbogixxer/kenny) going to start a street tune tonight and hopefully end with a full dyno tune with a week or two. We are going to be starting with a 'tuned' (i/h/e)basemap from a guy name blundar who is popular in the grassroots tuning side of things. I'll let you all know how it goes.
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Re: Wooohoooo, installed EuroR IM!!! (RotiEatter)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RotiEatter »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I heard a rumor that you gave a ******* to some guy in Atlanta for the IM, is that true?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Well Kenny picked it up for me, I have no idea how he got it. I'm just glad he did.
Well Kenny picked it up for me, I have no idea how he got it. I'm just glad he did.
#18
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Re: Wooohoooo, installed EuroR IM!!! (DarkKnight[DMD])
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DarkKnight[DMD »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">]
Well Kenny picked it up for me, I have no idea how he got it. I'm just glad he did. </TD></TR></TABLE>
*stops work on your p28*
say what again?
Well Kenny picked it up for me, I have no idea how he got it. I'm just glad he did. </TD></TR></TABLE>
*stops work on your p28*
say what again?
#19
Re: Wooohoooo, installed EuroR IM!!! (turbogixxer)
u cant hear or what kenny?
this is what he said:
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DarkKnight[DMD »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Well Kenny picked it up for me, I have no idea how he got it. I'm just glad he did. </TD></TR></TABLE>
lol
this is what he said:
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DarkKnight[DMD »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Well Kenny picked it up for me, I have no idea how he got it. I'm just glad he did. </TD></TR></TABLE>
lol
#20
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Re: Wooohoooo, installed EuroR IM!!! (hondaZvic)
Starting to tune it. It has more high rpm powerband and (feels like) it never stops pulling.
And we took pics, they will be up soon
Modified by turbogixxer at 12:10 AM 10/16/2004
And we took pics, they will be up soon
Modified by turbogixxer at 12:10 AM 10/16/2004
#24
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Re: Wooohoooo, installed EuroR IM!!! (Bee_Thao)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Bee_Thao »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">damn darknight still has CC </TD></TR></TABLE>
haha, He planned on having a/c, power steering and all the luxuries. CC is all he has now.
haha, He planned on having a/c, power steering and all the luxuries. CC is all he has now.