Chris F

B18C5, stock motor at ~10 PSI. Compression was all above 200 PSI 2 months ago. 50K miles non-boosted, 5K boosted.

New #'s after a rather harsh 2-day HPDE:

#1 - 185 PSI
#2 - 212
#3 - 165
#4 - 224

I ran it for a while longer and tried it again, same results +/- a few PSI.

One sorta-problem: I noticed a few drips of oil on the bottom of my hood above the dipstick. The rubber on the dipstick has burned off again, but it would take some decent blowby to splatter on the bottom of my hood.

During my HPDE, I burned through a solid 2 quarts in 2 days. Higher than usual but not unusual for other caRs.

The tune should be good (Hondata tuned on 93 octane), I ran 96/100 octane all weekend too. A/F around 11.2:1. I ran LEAN on one turn, my EGT's spiked coming out of a corner. Went from 1650->1900 in about 1-2 seconds.

Grrr!

So, would running lean for 1-2 seconds burn a valve? Or induce a knock to crack a ringland? Engine was already hot when I ran lean.

I'm getting a leakdown test ASAP.. but I'm really afraid it's a ringland. I'll have to decide if I want to drive it anyway at an HPDE in 4 weeks or rebuild it first.

Any advice/suggestions welcome.

Also if you have a link to a how-to with pictures of replacing ringlands/honing cylinders I'd like to read it. Or, how much you've been charged for similar service.

--Chris

99B16Si

odds are its a ringland man. that is the weak point in all these stock motors and theyre not very forgiving when it comes to boost so to answer your question...yes leaning out for 2 seconds can do some decent damage(think of it this waym the piston went up and down a few hundred times in those 2 seconds)

goodluck

StolenTeg

Yup probably your ring is gone, same problem as me. But i throw out a hell of smoke. I advise you not to drive it in the current condition, it will only get worst. I try it, drive good for 6 days then it suddenly shut down while cruising at 30mph, Eventhough it start back up, Im letting it sit until i can build it...

Chris F

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by StolenTeg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Yup probably your ring is gone, same problem as me. But i throw out a hell of smoke. I advise you not to drive it in the current condition, it will only get worst. I try it, drive good for 6 days then it suddenly shut down while cruising at 30mph, Eventhough it start back up, Im letting it sit until i can build it...</TD></TR></TABLE>

How bad was your compression?

I drove it home (80 miles), got an oil change, and have been daily driving it for a week and 150 miles. Since the oil change my oil is still full.

Yeah I don't want to do more cylinder damage than I have to. Will update with the leakdown test results (but I'm sure you guys are right, ringland.)

Hopefully I can find someplace to fix it well/cheap. I'd rather not drive an HPDE with it like this And I've got one in 4 weeks.

-Chris


<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 99B16Si &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">odds are its a ringland man. that is the weak point in all these stock motors and theyre not very forgiving when it comes to boost so to answer your question...yes leaning out for 2 seconds can do some decent damage(think of it this waym the piston went up and down a few hundred times in those 2 seconds)

goodluck</TD></TR></TABLE>

Stupid fuel economy... I was using 4.5 gallons in 30 minutes. I tried going a 2nd session without refueling and that's when I leaned out... coming out of a carousel (180 degrees 80 MPH turn) it just sputtered and I let off as I glanced at my EGT/AF. D'OH!

Chris F

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ccfries &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Also if you have a link to a how-to with pictures of replacing ringlands/honing cylinders I'd like to read it. Or, how much you've been charged for similar service.
</TD></TR></TABLE>


Anyone have a write-up of this? Is this a weekend project for the first time I've taken a head (or oil pan) off?

I searched and searched, this is a pretty good writeup of a head swap (including piston swap)

http://hybrid2.honda-perf.org/tech/headswap/

Cliff notes: Drain coolant/oil. Take off the head, take off the oil pan, take off the connecting rod nuts/bearings, push piston out the top, lather rinse repeat. Install rings, install pistons/rods, put on head and oil pan. Refill fluids. Go fast. Sounds POSSIBLE without pulling the engine...

Parts needed? Rings, head gasket (thicker one this time)... head studs..

Tools needed? Ring compressor (?) Helm manual , maybe a honing tool I saw at Sears, attaches to the end of an electric drill?


-Chris

iiilgsrlll

Sorry to hear about the results of your compression test. Your numbers looked similar to mine and I had broken all 4 ringlands. Definitely do a leakdown and pray that its not the ringlands. It's definitely a bummer and they're so easy to break (boost spike, lean condition, etc).

I lived with the blowby and oil consumption for about a year then swapped out the block for a built one. It ran fine the whole time but just needed to keep an eye on the oil level. Good luck

BTW, if you plan on driving like that for a while you should get a STR dipstick. Otherwise you'll be going through a lot of OEM ones. Trust me on that.

StolenTeg

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors...=WD1V

Are those similar to str dipstick cause i cant find a place that sell str dipstick for integra, heard they stop making them...

White Smoke

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by StolenTeg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors...=WD1V

Are those similar to str dipstick cause i cant find a place that sell str dipstick for integra, heard they stop making them...</TD></TR></TABLE>
I am sure they will work
Str still has um, just not listed for an acura.
Contact STR on here https://honda-tech.com/zerouser...18654

Chris F

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by si2die4 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I am sure they will work
Str still has um, just not listed for an acura.
Contact STR on here https://honda-tech.com/zerouser...18654 </TD></TR></TABLE>

Thanks for the contact. I hadn't seen them listed for Integra/B18Cx so I gave up on them.

Chris F

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by StolenTeg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors...=WD1V

Are those similar to str dipstick cause i cant find a place that sell str dipstick for integra, heard they stop making them...</TD></TR></TABLE>

I asked STR for a price on the Integra ones.

Those on Ebay (Venom?) appear to still have the rubber gasket around the dipstick tube.

99B16Si

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ccfries &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Also if you have a link to a how-to with pictures of replacing ringlands/honing cylinders I'd like to read it. Or, how much you've been charged for similar service.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

u cant replace a ringland. when a ringland cracks, it means your piston cracked in between 2 of the rings........say hello to your new paperweight/ashtray

iiilgsrlll

STR has discontinued the Integra dipsticks. However you should be able to use the dipstick from another car like a Civic with no problem. Remember you're not using the stick to measure oil anymore since its virtually impossible with the STR anyway. You just want the triple seal to prevent the blowby gases from shooting out the hole. The Venom one looks like it might work also.

If you have trouble locating an STR one please call Sam @ Importsports in Denver, CO. (303)752-2422. He said he had quite a few left the last time I asked about it (3 weeks ago).

Chris F

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 99B16Si &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">u cant replace a ringland. when a ringland cracks, it means your piston cracked in between 2 of the rings........say hello to your new paperweight/ashtray </TD></TR></TABLE>

Yeah, that was just beginning to dawn on me.

Oh well, I guess I'm building a motor!

-Chris

BigMig

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ccfries &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Yeah, that was just beginning to dawn on me.

Oh well, I guess I'm building a motor!

-Chris</TD></TR></TABLE>

Damn that sucks. Well here is a great write up w/ lots of pics by boosted hybrid on building a block.
http://www.boosted-hybrid.com/viewtopic.php?t=326

Chris F

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BigMig &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Damn that sucks. Well here is a great write up w/ lots of pics by boosted hybrid on building a block.
http://www.boosted-hybrid.com/viewtopic.php?t=326
</TD></TR></TABLE>

Awesome, thanks for the link. I guess it's not something I'm going to do on my daily driver for the first time.

Anyhow I have news--- Leakdown test showed leaking exhaust valves. I'm surprised as heck! I guess I'm going to drive it until it falls apart Or at least until November and then pick a build-up plan.

pngfolife

High EGT = burnt exhaust valves. I'd just drive it till it breaks.

Chris F

Maybe I just burned the carbon deposits unevenly. I'm going to seafoam the sucker and check it again. Suprdave suggested spraying brake cleaner into the exhaust ports but I'm too lazy to take the turbo/manifold off.

-Chris

Chris F

New data:

Yesterday:

#1 | #2 | #3 | #4
185 212 165 224

After SEAFOAM:

#1 | #2 | #3 | #4
170 202 185 212


*shrug* At least they're closer together.

pngfolife

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ccfries &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Maybe I just burned the carbon deposits unevenly. I'm going to seafoam the sucker and check it again. Suprdave suggested spraying brake cleaner into the exhaust ports but I'm too lazy to take the turbo/manifold off.

-Chris</TD></TR></TABLE>

Carbon deposits don't burn BTW, the oil retaining the carbon will though but it will just make more carbon. Compression numbers will always vary depending on a number of factors. The seafoam didn't do anything.

Boltz

Time to put some forged internals in and max out that 18g eh?

Chris F

I'm going to burn up my current internals first In just a couple of weeks...

Black R

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by iiilgsrlll &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Remember you're not using the stick to measure oil anymore since its virtually impossible with the STR anyway. You just want the triple seal to prevent the blowby gases from shooting out the hole. The Venom one looks like it might work also. </TD></TR></TABLE>


Why can't the str dipstick check oil level?

Chris, I pm'd you but maybe others would like this info as well:

fwiw my old 91 si dipstick (threw it away a long time ago before i ever thought about going turbo) had a different type of oil dipstick... it had a little metal cap that covered the rubber seal part and went over the top and around the t00b nicely. I may order one of those from honda and see if my dipstick rubber can survive with the greddy turbo kit...
Have you tried bending your dipstick toob farther towards the block itself? greddy recommends this in their instructions, and i did it a bit - but will do this a bit more now. mine was nearly impossible to pull the dipstick and check the oil on this morning - due to cold and i'm guessing cause the heat from last night's driving melted it a bit so it stuck in there after it cooled...