circletrack_honda

Good Afternoon everyone.. I'm new to this forum.. I am in the process of preparing to build a circle track Honda racer.

I live in Michigan and the local 3/8mile paved circle track has a new class called "Pure Stock" which is V6 FWD automatic tranny only.

Last year a Dodge Intrepid won the points championship.. racing mostly against other Intrepids, a Spirit, a Lumina and a Cutlass Supreme.

I think an Accord or Acura TL would kick some serious tail.. but I'm new to the car and I'm hoping the legions of tuners, street racers and drag racing folks here will help me build a great circle track racer.

Anyone interested in giving me a hand ?

JDM_DC4_Fanatic

i'd be glad to help with any advice I can give..but guess the proper place to start is, what are the rules? "Pure stock" class seems like it would allow minimal modifications. or maybe you guys do it diffrent across the lake, lol

circletrack_honda

Well.. if you have ever raced circle track before.. you know there are rules.. then there are "rules". :-)

Here are the complete rules for the FWD V-6 Division:

Notice # 1: The Pure Stock division is new for the 2006 season. It was added in an attempt to provide a more affordable option to racing. Due to the many makes and models available for use, restrictions and minor changes may need to take place during the season as we learn more about this new division.

Notice #2: Any interpretations of the rules are left to the officials, whose decisions are final. Just because it is not written, does not mean you can do it. The two words to remember in this class are STOCK ONLY. In the event a car is deemed to have illegal parts the car is subject to being banned from all future race events at Spartan and Springport Motor Speedways. The driver is subject to loss of points to date, all prize money for the night and suspension from property.

Notice #3: If you are considering building or purchasing a Pure Stock we highly recommend you receive pre-registration approval prior to doing so. There may be cars that have been permanently suspended Spartan because of rule infractions.

A. BODY AND CHASSIS:

Any American made FWD V-6 model (no convertibles, 2 seat coupes, super charged or turbo).
The vehicle must remain in its original form. No alterations are allowed unless specifically stated in these rules. (See notice #3)

a) Wheel base minimum: 104.5"
(NOTE: Small-bodied cars not allowed. If you're unsure, call first)

b) Weights: (post race with driver) 3000 lbs.
(3800, DOHC, multi-valve add 100 lbs.)

c) Bumpers must be stock appearing.

d) Tow hooks are required.

e) All doors must be welded shut.

f) Rub rails are allowed (no sharp edges).

g) Must be able to open trunk and hood without use of special tools. Hood pins required.

h) Rear and side glass must be removed. Windshield may stay or be replaced with 1/8" thick Lexan. All other glass must be removed including but not limited to taillights, headlights, turn signals, mirrors, plastic, upholstery, carpet, etc.

i) Any after market add ons must be removed. Ex: trailer hitch

j) The battery may remain in the original factory location provided it is in a safe location and securely mounted. If the battery is relocated, it may only be relocated to the trunk area. Batteries mounted in trunk must be secured by (2) two 1" metal straps. No batteries mounted in driver's compartment.

k) Fuel tank to be mounted in trunk and secured with (2) two 1" metal straps (made for racing for fuel cells are recommended). May run plastic gas tank if it is located in front of rear axle, under floor pan and is fully covered with a steel skid plate. Fuel lines must run below floor pan. Tanks that are mounted in the trunk must have protective hoop and 10" of ground clearance.

l) Front fender inner liners may be removed.

m) No frame alterations of any kind allowed.

n) No adjustable shocks or struts of any kind allowed.

o) Must have stock floor plan to rear axle and all holes in fire walls must be covered with sheetmetal.

p) Must have battery kill switch mounted on "A" pillar.


B. ENGINES:
a) Stock only in stock location. No aftermarket parts.
b) Single exhaust only. Maximum 2.0" OD. Last 6" of exhaust must exit behind driver and be fully visible. No exhaust leaks allowed.


C. DRIVE TRAIN COMPONENTS:
a) Stock automatic only. Cooler are allowed.
b) Stock diameter working torque converter only.

c) No aluminum wheels. Steel wheels only, stock for that year, make and model.

d) 1" Lug nuts are required.

e) D.O.T. Street radials only. No bias ply, made for racing tires. Maximum width 235. No less than 60 series (no 55, 50, 40). Minimum tread wear rating of 300. All 4 tires and wheels must be the same size.


D. BRAKES:
a) Must have 4 wheel hydraulic brakes in working order.

E. SAFETY:
a) A four point cage with four driver's side door bars, three right side door bars and a 1/8" steel plate on driver's side door bars from front upright to rear upright and from top door bar to frame rail is mandatory. A front hoop may extend into the engine bay area. Tubing must be .095 gauge, 1.75" O.D. and must be padded around driver.
b) Made for racing aluminum seat, properly mounted is required.

c) A 5 point harness, properly mounted with a 3 year maximum date is required.

d) Driver's side window net with quick release is required.

e) A 2 lb. currently dated B or C type dry chemical fire extinguisher is required within driver's reach.

f) Fuel injected vehicles are required to have fuel pumps wired to stop any fuel from being pumped when engine is not running.

g) Steering wheel center must be padded. Quick release steering wheel optional.

Ross 2.0

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by circletrack_honda &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Any American made FWD V-6 model (no convertibles, 2 seat coupes, super charged or turbo).
</TD></TR></TABLE>

circletrack_honda

An Accord is manufactured in the USA.

Its ground which has been covered at the drivers meetings (and trust me, some feathers were ruffled) but the track ownership's final ruling was " I don't care if its a Toyota made in Kentucky or a Ford made in Detroit", if its made in the USA its American Made.

So an Accord made in Ohio is good to go.

Ross 2.0

Just be sure what you want to buy and make sure it was made in the US. It would suck to get that far and find out you bought an illegal car.

iam7head

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by circletrack_honda &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">An Accord is manufactured in the USA.

Its ground which has been covered at the drivers meetings (and trust me, some feathers were ruffled) but the track ownership's final ruling was " I don't care if its a Toyota made in Kentucky or a Ford made in Detroit", if its made in the USA its American Made.

So an Accord made in Ohio is good to go.</TD></TR></TABLE>

only 80% is

make DOUBLE sure before you enter an American race with a nippon car

circletrack_honda

They tried hard to keep me out, but its been settled.

Ross 2.0

they have reason to be worried. A V6 Honda would be a very strong contender. I would STRONGLY recommend getting a 7th generation accord to do this with.

Ross 2.0

It's a shame you have to butcher the car so much to race it.

It looks like your suspension is going to be your winning factor. Definately put money into the suspension.
Bigger sway bars front and rear, get a camber kit and add a few degrees of camber in the front and probably the rear. Koni struts and stiffer springs
PM George Knighton. He will be a great help with this.

JDM_DC4_Fanatic

I dont see what you need help with exactly. All you can do is what the rules tell you, which is make the car safe, and keep the rest stock. I dont see any tech or discussion here. What do you want to talk about? how to remove the glass? how to mount the tow hook? I dont mean to sound like an *******, but whats the point of is post? if you want to make some racing buddies, I suggest you talk to the autox guys or GDD

pos_cd5

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Ross 4107 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">It's a shame you have to butcher the car so much to race it.

It looks like your suspension is going to be your winning factor. Definately put money into the suspension.
Bigger sway bars front and rear, get a camber kit and add a few degrees of camber in the front and probably the rear. Koni struts and stiffer springs
PM George Knighton. He will be a great help with this.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

read the rules man...car has to be stock.

Ross 2.0

All i see is no adjustable shocks.
I stand by my statement. Everything in there can be made to look stock. Those rednecks won't know the diffrence

circletrack_honda

JDM -- I think I can narrow down the help I"m looking for. Everybody works within a budget and everyone wants to spend as little money as possible.

Budget wise.. I'm probably going to get shoe horned into a 5th Generation Accord and I'm looking for ways to make that 170hp/165ft/lb torque car run with the Intrepid... the car I'm chasing is a 95 Intrepid with the H.O. 3.5 --- 214 hp/221 ft/lb torque.
. I'm sure there must be some economical $$ modifications which can be made to the car to make it run better. If I get lucky and can find a 1G Acura CL, or a 6G Accord in my price range, then with VTech power, I think I have a lot more options. Or maybe we could put a VTech V6 into a 5G body ?

added note, don't forget.. auto trans only and no turbos or superchargers allowed.

Sorry for the delay replying... as a new member, the forum will only let me post 5 times in a 24 hour period, so I was stuck in time out.

circletrack_honda

Ross.. your on the right track, obviously you've been to circle tracks before. Rules at circle tracks are only as good as they are enforced. Its kinda of like being a pirate.. do whatever you can get away with. The more stock it looks, the less likely you are to get called on it. There are 50 cars and one or two tech inspectors.. even if you get caught, you generally get a race or two to get it fixed.

Note.. that means its important that if you enter into a grey area, that its an area you can get back out of. So adding a sway bar or putting in extra camber or braces are things which can be easily taken back off.

But running a fully illegal car, to short of wheel base or something more major becomes a bigger risk.

Ross 2.0

well if you have a budget the absolute first thing I would do is the sway bar upgrades.
Also it's VTEC not the phone company
good luck on your project.
I much prefer being a gauntlet driver