LUDEacris

All said and done my build finished almost as planned. I predicted 225whp/190wtq but I'm happy with the results.

The runs were completed at Tagcraft. Stock H22's usually read 163whp/141wtq
on this dyno.





2001 Prelude Se

-S2000tb
-Port matched Head/intake/tb
-Stock Headgasket
-Short Ram with BPI Flowstack
-Euro R intake
-RDX injectors
-S2 Tuner 2 Cams
-S2 Valvespring/retainers
-Mugen Headers 2.5 collector
-Vibrant 2.5 high flow metal core cat
-Magnaflow 22" resonator
-Vibrant 3" muffler
-P28 w/Neptune
-F23 Crank
-Stock F23 rods
-Mahle 11.5 Pistons (.25 overbore)
-OBD1 Conversion
-No PS
-No BS
-F20b Crank pulley
-Competiton Clutch Stage 2
-Competition Clutch Flywheel 12lbs
-M2J5 Tranny with Quaife LSD.
-Tuned on 94 Octane


I have to thank:

SSR Racing-for documenting their build
http://www.sixsigmaracing.com/
Rosko Racing-for Euro R accesories
http://www.roskoracing.com/
Hivelocity Tuning (aka Zeeman)
http://www.hivelocitytuning.ca/index.html
Gilman Auto-motor install
http://www.gilmanauto.aaro.ca/
Gord Bush Performance-motor assembly
http://gordbushperformance.com/about.htm

and everyone one this board that sold and bought my parts





Modified by LUDEacris at 11:57 PM 6/29/2008

Acidcrakker

nice job. i was expecting to see a turbo in the build list, but nah, its a real build. Good Job

LUDEacris

Thanks, just trying to keep the H22 alive. It's still possible to make big power with mostly stock parts and a good tune.

G2IntegraGS

Nice!

98vtec

looks good mang. Get a cold air intake and retune

BoostedCD6

so what made you go with f23 crank & f23 rods?

LUDEacris

I'd lose power at high rpm with a cold air..too many bends and too long for the air to travel. I installed a ram air at the passenger side fog hole to force air to the filter. I'm going to build a cover to block the filter off from the rest of the engine bay.

I actually did a comparison of Whale ***** aka J's Racing intake aka Venturi Carbonfiber Intake vs. Short ram w/BPI flowstack and AEM 12" dry filter. With the short ram/BPI/AEM filter I gained 5hp and 5trq throughout the entire powerband

F23 Crank drops right into a H22 without any mods (55mm mains same as 98+ h22a4) and is balanced from the factory. I found a complete F23 motor for $100.
F23 rods are more than strong enough to handle more than 300hp and are lighter than eagles. They are also floating wrist pins so they don't need to be rebushed.
If you look at my build I used alot of factory parts. I don't think there's an aftermarket company that can make parts better or more reliable than Honda.

F23 Crank produces more trq which is what you need to get our heavier cars moving. More trq sooner also means more hp sooner which = a faster car




Modified by LUDEacris at 9:44 PM 6/28/2008

ProjectBB6

iTrader: (1)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Acidcrakker &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">nice job. i was expecting to see a turbo in the build list, but nah, its a real build. Good Job</TD></TR></TABLE>

Lol...that made my laugh

DCFIVER

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by LUDEacris &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I'd lose power at high rpm with a cold air..too many bends and too long for the air to travel....
Modified by LUDEacris at 9:44 PM 6/28/2008</TD></TR></TABLE>

Ive never heard this before. Care to elaborate?? (I hope your basis isnt the whale ***** as that has proven time and time again to be garbage)

LUDEacris

People have argued cold air vs. sri for years on Honda-tech. You can argue that CAI makes more power in the mid range blah blah and SRI gives better throttle response but sucks in the hot air from the engine bay. I like to believe that the less bends you have on your intake or exhaust the better the air will flow.

I've gone with a SRI with one bend from the throttle body. This was accomplished by installing a dry cell battery on it's side in the stock location. I've attached a tube to the front of my car that forces air to the filter once the car is moving. I'm happy with the results and have no concern about hydro lock.

You have to remember that these numbers were on pump gas, complete 2.5inch exhaust 22inch resonator, high flow cat, muffler, and 17inch rims. When my car rolls off the dyno there's no change in the numbers. Many dynos you see on HT are open header.


Modified by LUDEacris at 8:23 AM 6/29/2008


Modified by LUDEacris at 8:25 AM 6/29/2008

Apex1972

LUDEacris

One other thing I forgot to mention was that all dyno runs were 4th gear pulls.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mo_5oVDQgGs


Modified by LUDEacris at 11:34 AM 6/29/2008

98vtec

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread/2269162

never heard of that either but ok. Good luck for the future.

Gold DA9

When using your mahle pistons did you make any modifications to them??? Also what made you choose the s2s2 cams??

LUDEacris

Intersting but it's well known that the Skunk 2 manifold out performs the Euro from 7000rpm + while the Euro makes more power below 7000rpm.

Did you try placing the BPI on the short ram to see the results? The setup that my B series buddy dyno'd showed that a SRI with a BPI and a large filter (8-12") out performed CAI.

I'm sure this argument could go on for days but the truth is that there are many factors that can cause a motor to produce more or less hp.

LUDEacris

There were no modifications done to the Mahle pistons. The combustion chambers were recessed to compensate for the pistons pertruding 1mm out of the hole.

The Sk tuner2 are very good cams, they idle well and are very easy to tune (and I found a brand new set for $400). If you know your cam spec copying history you would know that Skunk got this profile from a very reputable cam maker.


Modified by LUDEacris at 2:35 PM 6/29/2008

Shadowz7429

Nice setup and power man!

Rollo Lawson

post the graph of the j's vs. the bpi system. i don't know about h series motors, but, on most relatively well built b's, a tuned length intake, stack and filter usually always produces greater numbers across the board. lastly, every set up promotes a different powerband, when stroke, bore, c.r., im plenum volume etc. are added to the equation. point being, what works on a c1 doessn't work in the same way when used in an 89mm motor. so, i'm sure the same applies when comparing a 22 vs. f23/h22 hybrid. every set up reactes differently, so what works for one doesn't necessarily work aswell/at all for the other. trust me, i know. i've spent too much time at the dyno lately

LUDEacris

BPI Flowstack SRI vs. Venturi Carbonfiber SRI

subydoored

nice build inprocess of the same but going with itb setup and a lovefab header.

Shadowz7429

I was gonna get a carbonfiber venturi intake, looks like i ain't! lol

typeWX

how is idle for this setup?? like stock or aggressive??

and what is ur base motor?

LUDEacris

The car idles at 900rpm and idles like a stock car. It's smooth and unassuming, that's why I picked the tuner 2 cams cause this is a daily driver.

This is just a H22 motor with f23 rods and crank. Other than that I picked my parts carefully to enure that each worked well together and made power.

vinuneuro

Looks like vtec xover could be lowered some?

ESP.net

I am a lil lost so the head was modified so the piston would have more clearance in the bowl of the head?

My calculations which I know are wrong come to around a 13.5-14.0 -1 comp. ratio?