Fuel:
Walbro 255 LPH pump
FIC 550cc peak and hold Injectors (Is this a good size?)
AEM FPR
AEM Fuel Rail
AEM Fuel Pressure gauge

Hardware:
Spoolin Performance Manifold
Turbonetics t3/t4 60 trim .63 or .82 AR
Turbonetics Evolution 38mm Wastegate
2.5” Aluminum Intercooler piping
HKS/Greddy/Turbonetics Blow-off valve (Any preferences or suggestions? Trying to stay within these brands because they fit the flange on the piping kit.)
Spearco Intercooler
Boost controller (Electronic or manual? Which brand?)

Besides those few questions above, my main concern is management. Right now I’m only running a VAFC 2 which I’m well aware is horribly inadequate for tuning a turboed car. So what do you guys recommend? My main concern is how I want to be able to change (safely and quickly without a laptop) from the 4-5 PSI 2.5” exhaust street map to the 8 PSI open downpipe strip map. I know changing the boost is as simple as twisting a knob or hitting a few buttons, but is that safe without adjusting any other parameters (Fuel/Timing)? How can I achieve this? Also, will I have to mess with the MAP at all running only 4-8 PSI? Thanks in advance to anyone who replies, I know this was a long post…

EDIT: I already have a few supporting mod's that at the time were for my N/A setup but will help with this...
AEM UEGO Wideband o2
68mm TB and port matched manni with Blacktrax Spacer
Removed A/C
Aluminium Civic Half Rad with Slim fan

Thanks again

Modified by 97Preludeguy at 3:57 PM 5/15/2008

Modified by 97Preludeguy at 3:58 PM 5/15/2008

Modified by 97Preludeguy at 3:58 PM 5/15/2008

14.8@94 STOCK

14.1@100.5 MODS

GO: Apex*i Vafc-2/OBX Twin Loop/ AEM CIA/ Greddy 4-2-1 Header w/ 2.5" collector/Forbidden Shifter/Cooling plate/Apex*iGround kit/Megan Racing Test pipe/NGK Wires/Iridium plugs

GRIP: KYB AGX/Eibach Sportlines/ Rota Circuit 8s/ BFG G-force Sports/ ST Rear sway bar/Brembo rotors/Axxis Pads

get a bigger turbo, try a t3/t4 .63AR .57 or .60 trim

Don't need the FPR, fuel rail or FPR gauge. the 550 injectors should be fine.

Get a good tuning software and get it tuned. Most important part. Won't need to switch tune when you turn up the boost on the fly since the tuning software retards timing based on how much boost pressure it sees.

Modified by oranginal at 10:31 PM 5/13/2008

FS: 4th gen OEM lip, obd1 knock sensor, h22 cams + cam gears
h22a1 block, h22 throttle body w/TPS sensor
95-96 center console w/ leather armrest + cup holder
WTB:

what?

edited above, i meant since you have already ditched the a/c

FS: 4th gen OEM lip, obd1 knock sensor, h22 cams + cam gears
h22a1 block, h22 throttle body w/TPS sensor
95-96 center console w/ leather armrest + cup holder
WTB:

I was worried about cracking with a tubular style manni. I do agree though and I will look into them, just remember however, I'm not chasing huge numbers, and I'm not sure the benefits will out weigh the cost for what I'm after. I basically want a low maintenance, reliable, daily driveable set-up while trying to stay around $2,500-$3,000 tuned and all. Also, just out of curiosity, why go for a bigger turbo? Where would one of the ones you mentioned spool up around/peak at? Just wondering, trying to get all the info I can from people who are more knowledgeable on the subject than I. Thanks again

14.8@94 STOCK

14.1@100.5 MODS

GO: Apex*i Vafc-2/OBX Twin Loop/ AEM CIA/ Greddy 4-2-1 Header w/ 2.5" collector/Forbidden Shifter/Cooling plate/Apex*iGround kit/Megan Racing Test pipe/NGK Wires/Iridium plugs

GRIP: KYB AGX/Eibach Sportlines/ Rota Circuit 8s/ BFG G-force Sports/ ST Rear sway bar/Brembo rotors/Axxis Pads

Quote, originally posted by tgreene2098 »

you really dont need the 550 injectors either just get some dsm injectors from a junkyard n rewire them, much more cost efficent for the same results

really? would you really do that to ur own car? use some dsm injectors from a car mfg.. that sucks to begin with? REALLY?

http://www.honda-tech.com/zerothread/1673078 5th Gen Engine bay shave

http://www.honda-tech.com/zerothread/1673078 5th Gen Engine bay shave

Tune for 5psi, 6psi, 7psi, 8psi.

for management, contact people in your area and see what system they prefer using. You will get the best results from the program they are most comfortable using.

I don't really have a set goal as stupid as it may sound. I mean I suppose on the 8psi with the open downpipe I'd like to be somewhere around 300ish, but overall I'm more concerned about feel, reliability, and a usable power curve.

Quote, originally posted by 98vtec »

Tune the car for its maximum PSI that you need to run (based on its HP output). Tune for 5psi, 6psi, 7psi, 8psi. for management, contact people in your area and see what system they prefer using. You will get the best results from the program they are most comfortable using.

I live in the Boston, Ma area and I'm planing to go to Dent Sport. I've heard very good things about them and they've had a few shootout winning cars in Sport Compact Car. So yea, like you said, I'll talk to them about what they would feel most comfortable using.

Should I make any changes as far as plug temp and oil viscosity go? Thanks again to all those helping out

14.8@94 STOCK

14.1@100.5 MODS

GO: Apex*i Vafc-2/OBX Twin Loop/ AEM CIA/ Greddy 4-2-1 Header w/ 2.5" collector/Forbidden Shifter/Cooling plate/Apex*iGround kit/Megan Racing Test pipe/NGK Wires/Iridium plugs

GRIP: KYB AGX/Eibach Sportlines/ Rota Circuit 8s/ BFG G-force Sports/ ST Rear sway bar/Brembo rotors/Axxis Pads

If you buy a well made manifold it won't crack. Trust me it's better to spend the extra money on the manifold now then rebuild your motor later and replace the manifold and change the downpipe and all, especially if reliability is an issue. keep in mind getting the tuning ecu and extras and the cost to get it tuned will run you close to $700-1000 by itself. And always have extra money in the bank just in case things go wrong, you won't want to put the project on hold and have no car to drive.

H22's are big motors and the turbo you selected is pretty small. I'm sure it will work alright and i'm not saying to get a big laggy turbo but you don't want it to choke before it can even hit vtec. a .57 or .60 trim will reach 8PSI at about 2700-3000RPMs, obviously things like the manifold, intercooler piping size, downpipe and exhaust size all play a factor as well.

FS: 4th gen OEM lip, obd1 knock sensor, h22 cams + cam gears
h22a1 block, h22 throttle body w/TPS sensor
95-96 center console w/ leather armrest + cup holder
WTB:

14.8@94 STOCK

14.1@100.5 MODS

GO: Apex*i Vafc-2/OBX Twin Loop/ AEM CIA/ Greddy 4-2-1 Header w/ 2.5" collector/Forbidden Shifter/Cooling plate/Apex*iGround kit/Megan Racing Test pipe/NGK Wires/Iridium plugs

GRIP: KYB AGX/Eibach Sportlines/ Rota Circuit 8s/ BFG G-force Sports/ ST Rear sway bar/Brembo rotors/Axxis Pads

i just reread your post and honestly if your only gonna run 8 pounds, unless you want to just have the turbo sound (which is fine) i would just run nitrous if your looking for power. i only had a 55 shot on my stock h22 and ran 14 flat on shitty 17's and now with 400whp my best is 13.4 at 120mph, cuz i cant get traction,

but if you plan on building the motor later then your going the right route, which if you turbo it you will need to build it: it wont last all that long, h22's ringlands are really weak