Since I'm in the market to replace or upgrade I was wondering if those OMNI axels kingmotorsports carries would benifit me.

Is anyone was using these axels? And if so... is there a noticeable difference in the feel of the car by reducing the rotating mass on the drive train? not theoreticly but can you feel it.

Are these sticks worth the money or should I just run oem?

*edit:i just looked them up.$500 for just the shafts(so you'd still need to purchase new axles to use the joints from to make a complete assembly and fix your original problem) to save 4 pounds total?!!anybody who buys these should have them hand delivered by an assassin so that they can be shot in the head upon arrival*

Modified by TeamNextGenChris at 6:11 PM 5/12/2008

Modified by TeamNextGenChris at 6:12 PM 5/12/2008

That being said, I think I will get TI axles just because people said I shouldn't

Quote, originally posted by MSchu »

If you burn through CV's, get RAXLES... Tell him you'd be using them for RR, it's the best $350-450 ever spent That being said, I think I will get TI axles just because people said I shouldn't

I bought a CF trunk to save a few pounds, and this is partially unsprung rotating weight

-Chris

2002 330CI

Any other suggestions? My driver's side half-shaft only lasted 8 months before it started clicking again. I just had the front suspension apart for a spring change a couple of months ago and everything looked fine. I have ES inserts in the lower torque mounts and the rear mount and those also looked fine. The engine and tranny mount look like they've been on the car for a while but there are no tears or cracks.

It's an Autozone axle so I'm just going to ask for a replacement but if this keeps on happening, then I'm going to look for a better axle. No problems with my passenger side axle.

I am not sure exactly which engine mounts have what from your comment, but any engine mount that is bad could cause this problem. My front engine mount (front of car, actually bolts to the tranny with 2 bolts) went bad and that caused my passenger axle to break.

If it is only happening on the drivers side, then my guess is to double check all the bushngs and ends on that side. If that is the side with the intermediate shaft, check those bolts and make sure that is tight. If it has the stabilizer bar thats goes the the front cross member, make sure that isn't bent or has a worn front bushing.

Also, when you do get the next axle, check the length carefully. If the current axle was actually the wrong part (I've had parts places do that to me before), maybe the length is just a little too long or short which would cause accelerated wear. Hopefully you have a repair manual for your car the gives what the correct length should be.

-Chris

SoHonda Garage. Since '05

SCCA Forums
Autox4U

FSP Civic in the works

FS: 99-00 Si front sway bar and control arms.

Yeah, I've been beating on it with a hammer and a long bar. I've also tried various pry bars in various configuration. The problem is there's a big gap between the housing and the intermediate shaft support that bolts on the back of the engine. I know it'll come out since i've gotten it out before. But that took a bunch of cursing and prying and didn't seem very inefficient. I'm just looking for a better way.

They will hold +500bhp, it's all in how you use the loud pedal.

:shrug:

Bigger hammer. Really.

Well I'm swinging a 5lb hammer. Had to stop for tonight since my arm was getting tired and it was getting dark. I'll try raising the car higher so I can get a better swing at it. I'll have to use some pieces of wood with my jack since I'm close to the max height of my jack. Anyway I started with a piece of wood braced against the axle, then I tried a big spade punch, then I resorted to just banging on it but it started sparking so I'll give the piece of wood another try.

I'll give the reman'd axle another shot. It's just this last one lasted about 8 months before it started ticking again. The axle that came with my swap about 1 year. I have a stock B18C motor with some bolt ons. The tie rods are new and seem fine. At least they pass the wiggle test. The lower control arm bushings also look fine. And the intermediate shaft is bolted tight to the back of the block.

Time for the b20vtec to become a reality
wish me luck

Hopefully I get the power I'm looking for this time around

i've found that if you're prying/beating on one side of the axle hub,it can bind it and keep it from coming out.try two prybars or large flat-head screwdrivers 180 degrees from each other,wedging between the axle hub and intermediate shaft housing.this will let you pull straight out on it,and usually works.
Chris

No no, I don't have a death wish. The car is on jack stands. I just have my 17" harbor freight aluminum jack so it doens't lift very high. I need to get my bigger jack from my friend.

The dual prybars is my normal technique but I didn't seem to be making alot of progress. I'll just keep working at it. I don't need the car again until the 30th so I have some time to mess around with it.

Quote, originally posted by MSchu »

If you burn through CV's, get RAXLES... Tell him you'd be using them for RR, it's the best $350-450 ever spent

He must be an enthusiast himself, because he always seems very interested in what you're doing.