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 You guys know Fuel Control better than I do. Tricky.
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VegasInvasion




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7 posts [100%]
los angeles ca
4-29-2008
  You guys know Fuel Control better than I do. Tricky.« » Reply  Edit


Sorry, this is a little long. Thanks for reading.

I've replaced (literally) every sensor known to B18C, & I'm still in open loop mode. O2s reads ~0.7v consistently, a little lower on WOT.
I'm pretty sure it's a coolant system error, but I would assume someone here would know more than I would about engine management. Here's my recent findings:

ECT checks out at the sensor, 0.35 ohms (around 200 deg) at operating temp, constant 4.99v feed. However, at the ECU side I get 0.47 ohms & a feed of 2.1v... Normal? I don't get how that's possible actually. I've never been sure how to test for shorts though either.

The radiator fan Coolant temp switch (just replaced) reads ~0.7 ohm. When I remove & bridge the temp switch connector, the fan starts, but never automatically. I'm wondering if this is because the A/C was removed? (Not sure if this affects fuel control) or, if this is just due to a thermostat malfunction & why.

The upper radiator hose is always hot, lower hose is always cold. Just replaced thermostat (190 deg), not really sure if there's a way to check if it's opening or closing.

I think the ECU is not getting accurate readings & defaulting to open loop, but I'd like some help if anyone could direct me here. I'm at a loss, & too frustrated to think about it anymore. Anything is appreciated.

Thank you.



OEM1




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19 posts [100%]
Vancouver wa
3-6-2008
 « Re: You guys know Fuel Control better than I do. Tricky. (VegasInvasion)« » Reply  Edit


What ECU do you have? How far down stream is your primary o2 sensor mounted? I've seen a couple of cars where the o2 sensor simply wasn't getting hot enough even though the o2 heater was working properly.

Post more info of your setup so we know what were working with.


VegasInvasion




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7 posts [100%]
los angeles ca
4-29-2008
 « Re: You guys know Fuel Control better than I do. Tricky. (OEM1)« » Reply  Edit


This one has a stock '94 GSR OBD1 ECU. It only has the primary O2s, mounted right after the collector before the cat.
It gets to 680 deg f, according to a local shop's records. Is there a way I can check it for myself?

Here's the mod info:

* '93 Del Sol chassis, '94 B18C1 harness & block (10:1 comp w/ lightweight pulleys & flywheel), B18C5 head (stock) adjustable cams set back to 0deg.

* 310cc injectors @ ~55psi WOT (adjustable), insulated fuel lines, stock pump.

* Custom intake manifold, medium runners / large plenum, 60mm TB. New IACv, new FITv, new MAPs, new IATs, new TPs, all vacuum components and evap system replaced (pressure @ -12psi idle), IABs system removed.

* Ported B18C1 3-2-1 headers (heat wrapped), stock cat, 3" resonator to 1.5" y-pipe dual exit (sounds like a raccoon crawled in it, for the record. Not recommended.)

* Gates timing belt, hi-flow water pump & new tensioner, stock oil pump.

* Optima Gold batt w/ ground stabilizing kit, iridium 4 plugs, 8mm wires, stock dist.

Thanks for your help


Relic1




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3718 posts [100%]
chicago burbs Il
10-4-2002
 « « » Reply  Edit


Quote »
stock '94 GSR OBD1 ECU

Quote »
310cc injectors @ ~55psi WOT

you don't see a problem there? It will run ~30% rich at all times. (that's more than you think)
drop in a set of 240cc injectors or chip the P72 to control the 310s and go from there.



I can't spell. (and I have dyslexic fingers)

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calvinPGMFI




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346 posts [100%]
eCtune Dev country
10-23-2003
 « « » Reply  Edit


your ecu p72(stock) was design for 240cc injector.
You cannot run 310 injectors without a chip or tuning solution.
Neptune, eCtune, Hondata or Crome



Developer of eCtune... Next generation obd1 editor... Check out.
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