Turbowa
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978 posts [100%]
Casa Grande AZ
2-25-2004
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| « Re: F22A main/rod bolts (runderwo) | « » 11:09 AM 5/7/2008 |
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If they are that tight don't re-use them. They will have streached. If one of the main bolts rounded off take the block to a machine shop and have them get it out for you. Do NOT use heat, you could warp the part of the block that your working on.
94" accord lx 4dr
99" Accord 4cyl turbo: Stolen 9/7/05
77" Corolla station wagon. Given to me by great grand mother, R.I.P
---Driven back from Las Vegas to Columbus OH. O'ya
60k original miles.
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runderwo
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52 posts [100%]
Rolla MO
1-24-2006
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| « Re: F22A main/rod bolts (Turbowa) | « » 5:34 PM 5/7/2008 |
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It's not rounded yet, but it wants to round. What's strange is I felt it break loose a little bit, but now it's stuck good and won't turn in either direction. I'll try tightening the other ones back up and maybe it will lighten the load on that one. Hard to believe the book only calls for what, 57 ft lbs? These things are way more tight than the head bolts at 78 ft lb....
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runderwo
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52 posts [100%]
Rolla MO
1-24-2006
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| « Re: F22A main/rod bolts (runderwo) | « » 10:20 PM 5/7/2008 |
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Got it loose, by tightening up the ones that had been loosened so far, and hitting it with an impact first forward then in reverse. After hitting it with the impact I was able to get it with the breaker bar. Thankfully none of the block threads came with the bolt.Now what to do with this main bearing "bridge", is there a bolt I missed maybe through the oil pump or is it just stuck good?
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runderwo
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52 posts [100%]
Rolla MO
1-24-2006
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| « Re: F22A main/rod bolts (runderwo) | « » 11:25 PM 5/7/2008 |
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Dang it, I had a site open with the F22A engine manual and the browser locked up and now I can't find the site anymore. The printed shop manual is useless because it doesn't tell you anything about the bottom end. Anyone know where this site is? It was some kind of photo album type of site where the pages of the engine manual were the "photos".
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TouringAccord
HT Order of Merit
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7386 posts [101%]
somewhere in MI
8-6-2002
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| « Re: F22A main/rod bolts (runderwo) | « » 7:28 AM 5/8/2008 |
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if they pages are scanned from a copy written manual then they can not be posted here.I haven't torn apart a F22A engine before but the bearing cap bridge should just come out after all the bolts are removed. The bolts should be in plain site, nothing should be hidden. If the bolts are removed, maybe try tapping it with a rubber mallet to help loosen it.
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GhostAccord
Online
1129 posts [100%]
East Coast 506
3-30-2007
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| « Re: F22A main/rod bolts (TouringAccord) | « » 8:12 AM 5/8/2008 |
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| Quote, originally posted by runderwo » | | Now what to do with this main bearing "bridge", is there a bolt I missed maybe through the oil pump or is it just stuck good? |
It's in there good and snug I just removed mine. If you have a plastic mallet or hammer you will have to tap it on the sides while pulling/prying up on it. Do it in a cross pattern from side to side & corner to corner a few taps at a time. That's what I did and it came up in no time.
Projects
96' Accord Ex F22B2 "Ghost"
Another 78' 502 Camaro
"All Motor All the Way"http://www.honda-tech.com/gara...=6303
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runderwo
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52 posts [100%]
Rolla MO
1-24-2006
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| « Re: F22A main/rod bolts (GhostAccord) | « » 9:57 PM 5/8/2008 |
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I removed the 10 main bolts and it acts like it's welded on. I do not have the oil pump off, does it need to be off? What did you pry with? I pried with a pipe wrapped in cloth but not a budge yet.
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runderwo
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52 posts [100%]
Rolla MO
1-24-2006
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| « Re: F22A main/rod bolts (runderwo) | « » 10:41 PM 5/8/2008 |
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Reality check, is it possible to do this upside down or do I have to remove the motor? I'm concerned about the main bearing caps that are "on top" of the bridge, if I would ever be able to get them back in place from underneath, if I ever get this thing loose anyway.
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runderwo
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52 posts [100%]
Rolla MO
1-24-2006
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| « Re: F22A main/rod bolts (runderwo) | « » 12:31 AM 5/9/2008 |
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Got that bridge off, needed a bigger pipe and bigger hammer  Piston #1 is out... figured I'd have one or both stuck rings but looks like nothing so obvious. There was a good ridge, and I messed up setting up the ridge reamer at first which made a score mark arond the circumference of the cylinder, 1/4 inch below the ridge  I hope that will hone out, it made about a 1/8 inch "scratch" all the way around.
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runderwo
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52 posts [100%]
Rolla MO
1-24-2006
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| « Re: F22A main/rod bolts (runderwo) | « » 11:23 PM 5/9/2008 |
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Happy news, the scratch seems to have honed out cleanly (with a 220 grit 3-stone hone on a drill, using ATF as lube).Plastigaged all the rods and everything had some meat left so I'll be replacing those with new bearings and not worry about the crank. One lower rod bearing had a scuff on it about 1mm in size but that was the worst of it. #2 and #3 pistons came out without ridge cutting, #1 and #4 had to have the ridge cut. Taking the pistons in tomorrow to be dunked and ringed. Also be pickup the head and new rod bearings. Then I'll hone all the cylinders, careful to cover up the crank journals below, then clean thoroughly with soap & water, cleanup the crank, and put everything back together with assembly lube. Anyone know if there are any errors in the torque listings in the Haynes, my Honda manual doesn't include any engine rebuild instructions. Anyone have good breakin instructions for the F22A?
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