Having a car that hovers (if it holds steady) at 200* isn't normal even for a car with a bad headgasket or air bubbles in the system. Normal running temps is normal weather (say 70* air temp) should be closer to the 185* area. If I'm remembering correctly, the GSR thermostat opens at 160* so 198* is way too high. I know my OEM LS thermostat opens right around 160ish.

1.) i moved the fan from inside the engine bay to the other side while switching the wiring and turned it into a pusher fan that made no difference
2.)no the gsr thermoswitch is rated to turn on at 198
3.) yes it does move around some past the mid point
4.)brand new oem headgasket when i started the build with arp headstuds
5.) and pics are on my link above

yea it only holds steady at 201.5 with the heat on 2 so... and i put in the low temp thermostat from statracing.com its like 170 degrees i think

also, make sure that your fan is working and turning on when it is supposed to. you will overheat if your fan does not turn on.

if none of these yields any positive results, i would see if removing your thermostat all together would make any diffrence.

i know these sound like common knowledge, but alot of times they are over looked.

"A lie can make it halfway around the world before the truth can even put its pants on"

I think he is talking about the thermoswith is rated at 198. The sensor that cuts the fan on/off. The thermostat he is running is fully open at 170F.

To the OP i feel your pain. I've got almost the same setup. PWR radiator, full-race ac mani, 170 jackson racing thermo, its bleed fine, the fan is new and wired correctly. I've ran 100% H2O, 50/50 antifreez both with watter wetter doesn't matter. damn car still wants to run 200+ if it is hotter then 75F outside. The stock gauge never gets halfway but the radiator fan doesn't cut on/off like it does in the winter time. It runs 24/7 after it warms up in the summer....

do you have it pushing, or pulling?

fans PULL a lot more efficiently than they PUSH.

so if you have ran fan INSIDE the engine bay, SUCKING, it will move a lot more air, especially with inertia working with you.

Bingo. I had an overheating problem with my car and tried everything and the shroud really helped. Air tends to take the path of least resistance which in your case would be around the rad. Redirect the air through the rad.

nice ride that cock a little harder...

i guess physics is wrong eh

good luck with your overheating "battle"... u still havnt mentioned your fans CFM and if its even close to stock flow. the block off plate will help you as well

Well i had a LS/VTEC turbo 88 Hatch and i did everything you did. I heat wrapped everything. Had a slim fan that was more efficeint. Had my fan on all the time! Got royal purple coolant assist! I got an aluminum radiator! I DID EVERYTHING!!

But let me ask you this.... Was your head milled prior to the build?? Or maybe your head was installed incorrectly (not tourqed correctly). Well the Problem for me was.... that the head was not milled and needed to be milled bad! So coolant would seap through and JUST A LITTLE BIT a day would go onto the piston/valves area! So..... i would loose coolant and the car would over heat!!!! I went crazy trying to find the problem! But when i pulled the head off, the head , the valves looked as if coolant had stained them that white ashy color.

Ended up milling and PROBLEM WAS GONE!

GSR SLEEVED/B16 HEAD INTEGRA 1/4 Times - TBA

I too have the same heating problem like the OP. How do you check if water coolent is leaking into the piston and valve area? Thanks

Well, the way i eventually figured it out was that i was always having to top off the radiator like once a month. I was was like.... were is the coolant going lol. I had no leaks or anything. So if you have to constantly be putting water/coolant thats could be the problem.

GSR SLEEVED/B16 HEAD INTEGRA 1/4 Times - TBA

o yeah another thing, ive been through this before with my car and it ended up being the water pump. what hapaned is somehow little rust bubbles formed on the impeller housing and was causing the pump to cavitate at higher RPM's inturn not pumping water worth a dam.

but if u dont have that baffle, put one in that guy knows what hes talking about.

p.s. its not the head.

91 rex LS boosted SC34 12psi
KW V1 coilovers

i didnt see anywhere on here what the OP is using to monitor the water temp.

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