Right now I am planning out the subwoofer components: single sub and an amp

I have been looking at the JL 500/1v2 amp and JL 10w6v3 lately...from reviews i have read its a good combo to get but i have one question...

It says its RIPS lets the amp handle 1.5-4ohms @ 500 watts but theres one thing that i am confused on...

I know at higher impedance(4ohms) the amp doesnt have to work as hard as at lower impedances(1.5 ohms). I havent researched this part much but wont the amp get hotter and have less SQ at lower impedances? If I would hook up the 10w6v3 to it, it would put a 1.5-2 ohm load on the amp which the amp is rated for but after playing it for an extended period of time im not sure how it will perform.

Also, if anyone has heard them, how well would the kappa perfect subs perform with this amp? or any other SQ subs?

Thanks!

thats straight from jl's website if you couldnt find it. basically the amp adjusts itself according to the actual impedance of the sub to provide the optimum power. i personally used the 500/1v1 with a 12w3v3 the 4ohm model and the 2 ohm model. i could tell no difference with either sub. the 500/1v1 uses the same R.I.P.S. technology so you should be good either way.

i might be thinking of the amp incorrectly; I have always thought of amps that are at 2 ohms make the amp work harder than at 4 that dont have the RIPS technology which may decrease the sound quality(again, im all about SQ). I fully understand what RIPS does and how it works.

By the way how did the 12w3 sound? I am thinking between the W3 and the W6. Thanks for the reply!

id only go with w3s if i was on a budget. i also ran 1 12w6v2 with a 500/1 and it was damn clean. spl and sq nicely balanced. i also helped my buddy with his set up in his civic coupe. 2 12"w3v2s run off a 1000/1 jl amp. he pushed 133.3 dbs at an iasca event. im sure you can push more dbs with 2 12w6v2s. ive heard a 12 w7 run with a 1000/1 and it surely pushes more than a 12w6v2 but it doesnt sound as "clean."

All i know is that its a new model and have heard good things about them.

Quote, originally posted by junkspeedproject »

id only go with w3s if i was on a budget.

Well money is an object but all I have to buy is the amp and one 10" or 12" w6 sub.

I am wanting to go for the best SQ that I can get. I have heard good things about this sub. I am not getting it till a few months from now; im planning out the whole install. Right now I have 6.5 Alpine type-r components in front powered by an Alpine MRV-T320 amp and 6.5" type-r coaxials in the rear.

I have always had "entry level" type subs so i am going for something thats higher-end that sounds great(im an SQ person)

You get what you pay for.

Nothing is impossible, the impossible takes longer and costs more money.

You get what you pay for.

Nothing is impossible, the impossible takes longer and costs more money.

I prefer W3's when there is a budget. Both W3's & W6's a great subs. I agree with FCM, the JL 500/1 paired with a 10W6 will work well as long as the enclosure is properly built.

Thanks. Is there much sound difference between the w3 and w6? I am not really on a budget since all I have left is an amp and a sub so im looking for the 'best' sounding combo out there.(of course i dont want to spend $3000 on a single sub tho)

I am ready for high-end type of sound. I am planning on building a custom fiberglass enclosure for my sub and amp combo; im very good at matching the suggested internal volume. ALso this will be a sealed enclosure

You get what you pay for.

Nothing is impossible, the impossible takes longer and costs more money.

Ah sorry i didnt explain what i meant. I was meaning SQ (and maybe output, im more concerned with SQ) is there much of a difference between the w3s and the w6s?

Use as big a MDF baffle as you can, [min. 1" thick]. 94

You get what you pay for.

Nothing is impossible, the impossible takes longer and costs more money.

One thing is that I will have to figure out how to mount the enclosure along the back of the trunk; the gas tank is underneath that area but does anyone have suggestions on what the best way is to mount it to the car? I am great at shaping things perfectly using fiberglass, making them almost perfect to the mfg suggested cabinet volume(literally within a few cubic inches), yet i suck at mounting them. Im sure i can figure it out but any input would be helpful. Thanks again!

It's just a spare tire well sub cabinet, done a million times, it will not be unique but it will work great, take up no trunk space. 94

You get what you pay for.

Nothing is impossible, the impossible takes longer and costs more money.