gsr4door13

ok, so here is the situation. my friend has a h22 swapped accord, with full exhaust, aem intake, aem cam gears, and skunk2 manifold. the problem is that the car idles at around 2 grand, and i cant figure out why. i tried to adjust the idle screw but it is all the way in, and it seems like all of the vaccum lines are hooked up. i the timing is good, and everything seems fine. so yea, if anyone has any ideas let me know.

casper.hughes

is there any codes stored

GhostAccord

What is he using for engine management...What ECU?
Is he using the IAC and FIT valves on this swap?

If the FITV is on the throttle body but not connected to a coolant source that can keep the idle up to 2k.

Also check to make sure the IACV is wired correctly if he is using one. Start the car and let it idle, unplug the IACV. If there is no change in the idle checking out the IACV is the place to start.

gsr4door13

for engine management, he is using a vafc. idk if he has a different ecu though because he bought the car as is. i knew the guy who had the car before him and i dont think he had a tunable ecu. i havent checked any of the sensors yet, im supposed to work on the car tomorrow. im going to check the sensors, and try and re-tune the vafc as well. where are the sensors and vaccuum lines i need to check located?

GhostAccord

There are actually three things to check on the H22. They are all part of the idle control system.

1. Intake air control valve (IAC) is located on the back of the intake plenum.
2. Fast Idle Thermal Valve (FIT) is located on the bottom of the throttle body
3. Air Boost Valve is located on the front of the intake plenum (it is not the item mounted to the right side of the manifold, that is the IAB diaphragm)

You should tell your friend to invest in the appropriate manuals for both the H22 engine, (Prelude) and his Accord.

gsr4door13

ok, i can find those. im not too familiar with the h-series, im a b series guy, lol. and if all of those sensors are good what else could the problem be? also, where are those vaccuum and coolant lines located?

GhostAccord

The IAC has two coolant lines on the bottom of it, one comes up from the main coolant tube on the back of the engine and the other goes to the FITV. The other FITV coolant line connects to the intake manifold. There are no vacuum lines on ether of these valves. They are the valves that control the two air passages in the throttle body itself.

Do a search for IAC cleaning, or look in the Accord FAQ's there is a really good write-up in there that will work for the H22.

tree top flyer

Hey yall
I bought a 1989 accord lx f.i. sohc a few weeks ago from the original owner. Bone stock car with 291000 miles and running perfect until I changed the air filter and now the idle has the typical 1000 to 2500 rpm hunting problem. Hard to believe changing the filter has caused this but that is all I did.

GhostAccord

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tree top flyer &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> Hard to believe changing the filter has caused this but that is all I did.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Did you reset your ECU after the replacement?

It will eventually go back to normal but if you reset your ECU it should clear up right away. What's happening is the engine is now getting more air than it was getting with the dirty filter and it will take time to adjust without resetting the ECU.

Brad_and_the_acc

i have an idle problem as well, About 10 months ago i did a auto 2 manual trany swap,and at the same time i did the swap i had a turbonetics turbo kit installed as well.
About 2 months ago my car started to idle weird when im coasting in neutral about 1,500 rpms untill i come to a complete stop and then it will idle at the proper 750 or so.

i have checked all the fluids everything is fine in that department, so i am not sure what to do

thanks for any help!

tree top flyer

Thanks for the bump GhostAccord . I tried to reset the ecu by disconnect battery , take out ecu fuse , reconnect , start engine & let run without touching throttle, let fan come on . That should be it , right?
thanks again

GhostAccord

You got it!

Brad_and_the_acc

i have an idle problem as well, About 10 months ago i did a auto 2 manual trany swap,and at the same time i did the swap i had a turbonetics turbo kit installed as well.
About 2 months ago my car started to idle weird when im coasting in neutral about 1,500 rpms untill i come to a complete stop and then it will idle at the proper 750 or so.
i have checked all the fluids everything is fine in that department, so i am not sure what to do

thanks for any help!

GhostAccord

Brad_and_the_acc
Did you change, clean, move or do anything to your car around that same time?
What are you using for engine management, chipped ECU?

Brad_and_the_acc

it is the stock ecu, the turbonetics kit came with the seconday injectors (i believe that is what they are called) the ones that are routed to the intake pipe right before the intake manifold. Alternative Motorsports installed everything, Chuck did it personally.

i just wanted a little bit of info may some suggestions before i paid to have it looked at you know.

thanks for the help Ghost!

GhostAccord

Reset your ECU and see if that helps at all. Go under the hood and pull the fuse labeled back Up for 30 seconds. That will reset/clear your ECU's memory.

Brad_and_the_acc

thanks man, can i reset the ecu anytime there is a strange problem like that? like is there a time when i should not reset my ecu is what im asking?

GhostAccord

If your CEL (check engine light) comes on don't reset your ECU until you have retrieved the codes. Other than that you can reset it as whenever you want. I wouldn't recommended doing it that often though. If you are having problems that reseting your ecu doesn't take care of then I would start looking at other components or sensors as the source of the issue.

Brad_and_the_acc

thanks man you`ve been alota help bro

tree top flyer

Hey ghostaccord
Thanks for your excellant advice. My idle surge problem is gone. Haleluja !!! I reset the ecu but I still had the problem for about 80 miles and 4 or 5 start ups. Then one day I started it up and the surging was gone. It has idled fine for several days. I changed the spark plugs before I reset the ecu. I am puzzled why the ecu is so sensitive to a minor change like a new air filter and why it can't adjust for that. My chevy s10 ecu is not sensitive at all.

GhostAccord

Yup.....That's why they, Not sure who "they" are, say that you should reset your ECU after any engine sensor or part change. Even if it's just an OEM replacement. because your AFR, ECT, IAT or MAP could be changed by the slightest and the ECU sometimes doesn't pick up on it right away. And sometimes it just takes a few run cycles to calibrate to the new information from the sensors.