| Quote » |
| Q: I noticed, when ordering, that there is a difference between 2001-2003 and 2004-2005 Model* (not production year) Civic coilovers. Why is that? - A: During the production* of the '04-'05 models, Honda changed the bolts mounting the McPherson Struts in the front, to the hubs themselves, from 14mm to 16mm. In most cases, a sleeve or some drilling will allow you to fit one model on the other, but some setups cannot do that, due to built-in camber adjustment.
Q: How far down must I be to require a camber kit?
- A: Most anyone should get them as soon as they lower the vehicle, but as far as true necessity goes, you will start to need a rear camber kit once you reach the 1.5" drop and beyond. The reason being, that the rear wheels will start to camber out past the 3 degrees of acceptability. It is also recommended to wait a period of a couple weeks to allow for the new suspension setup to "settle", before getting an alignment and adjusting the camber.
Q: I would like to do change on my struts and shocks. What would I need to look for?
- A: For the 2001-2002 production* years, the strut/shock diameter is 50mm, where as in the 2003-2005 production* years it is 55mm.
Q: I just lowered my car, now I get creaking/cracking noises from the suspension. What is it from?
- A: This typically means that your springs are not seated/indexed properly. Loosen the top strut bolt, lift the car, and re-align them.
Q: I just changed my suspension setup. How soon should I get an alignment?
- A: Depending on what all has been done, and how low the car is, I would recommend not waiting longer than 2 weeks. For the most part, your car should have no problems lasting that long, without an alignment. If you went with a HUGE suspension drop, I would recommend no more than 5 days, if driven often.
* - Please note that the term production year relates to when the car was actually manufactured. Certain model 2003 cars were produced in 2002, and some were produced in 2003. This is important to notice, as it signifies what size/type of suspension components you have. You can find the production year through the VIN number, or by checking the information on the driver's side door channel.
|
Do it yourself articles:
Spring installation: Link
Coilover installation (without tophat): Link
Strut bar installation: Link
Front camber-bolt installation: Link
Front lower control arm bushings: Link
Common interest items:
Rear lower control arm socket: Link
RSX (DC5) Suspension components: Link
Do it yourself articles:
Brake pad replacement: Link
Upgrade front rotors: Link
Rear disc brake installation: Link
Common interest items:
ABS computer jumper location: Link
| Quote » |
| Q: What engine swaps are available for my car? - A: You're limited to a select few, for engine swaps. K-series engines are the only feasible engine swaps for the chassis.
Q: What can I do to make my engine perform better?
- A: Unfortunately, the D17 does not respond well to standard bolt-ons or natural aspiration build-ups. Even with higher compression pistons, a high-performance cam, custom intake manifold and throttle body, cold air intake, aftermarket header and exhaust, and head work, you may only see 20 to 30 whp (which really isn't worth the thousands you would invest in the project). Your three "best" options are a Nitrous kit (only up to 60hp shot on stock internals), a turbo-setup, or swapping for a K-series engine.
Q: But what about those two B-Series Civics and that one H22 Civic?
- A: First off, the two B-Series Civics are not street legal. In order to have a street legal car, the drivetrain must be of the same model year or newer than the chassis itself. The only way to do that with a 7th generation Civic, is with a 2001 Integra Type-R drivetrain. But, you're looking at 100% custom build-up, and roughly the same amount of money investment as a K-Series installation. Secondly, the H22 Civic is an extreme hybrid as well. Everything needed to make that engine work was custom, as well as the car isn't American-based, so the road laws are different. Keep in mind, that with all the money needed to do either a B or K-Series engine, you'd be better off buying a K. |
Engine:
Do it yourself articles:
K-Series engine swap: Link
VTEC head swap: Link
High output alternator installation: Link
Oil change: Link
Common interest items:
How VTEC works: Link
Turbo basics: Link
Turbo basics (non-chassis specific): Link
K-Series engine types: Link
Intake and exhaust options: Link
Exhaust manifold differences: Link
305whp turbo buildup: Link
Nitrous information: Link
Transmission:
Do it yourself articles:
Common interest items:
Transmission gearing information: Link
Do it yourself articles:
Detailing with a Mothers clay bar: Link
eBay fog lights: Link
"Blacking out" headlights: Link
DC5 side marker wiring: Link
Common interest items:
EM2 sticker set: Link
Washing, clay bar, waxing, etc.: Link
HID information: Link
Do it yourself articles:
Driver's seat fix: Link
Replace Climate / Heater Control Bulbs: Link
Reset SRS light: Link
Reset maintenance required light: Link
01-02 Civic manual cluster to 03-05 cluster swap: Link
EP3 steering wheel into EM2: Link
Radio and speaker installation: Link
OEM Radio says "CODE" on it: Link
Replace front speakers: Link
Fix A/C power transistor: Link
Clean seats: Link
Replace cabin air filter: Link
Stealth alarm installation: Link
Common interest items:
Aftermarket shifters: Link
General car security: Link
Do it yourself articles:
Common interest items:
Chassis specifications and features: Link
Technical service bulletins (TSB): Link
Paint codes: Link
Honda chassis code list: Link
_____________________________
Temporary Links for reference
► Official FAQ Thread for 01-05 Civic (Coupe and Sedan)
Old non-indexed FAQ thread
Modified by toyomatt84 at 12:49 AM 5/5/2008
*free hugs*
Import Alliance '08: Midewest Caravan (Click to Join us!)
) stating what is wrong.
Maybe if you can find enough information, you could make a maintenance section. Where you could put maintenance things such as, coolant flushing, transmission flushing, things like that...
