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#1 |
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Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: pensacola, florida, U.S.
Posts: 147
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ok... one of my rod bearings went out and i replaced all of them...even my main bearings... but the rod is still knocking. so i am starting out with a .03 or 30,000ths over bearing... but the main thing is all this happened when i changed my oil and oil filter...then the oil leaked out of the filter seal some how... so i figured i lost oil pressure and thats how the bearing spun out i guess... also when i drive the car and the engine is heated up... the car still seems to idle all the way down when i take it out of gear... can someone please tell me what could of went wrong? all the help is needed..
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JDM h22a now running stronger then ever... |
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#2 |
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Tuner "replica"
Join Date: Oct 2002
Posts: 13,312
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was the rod/crank damaged?
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Blake's Wiki ECU chipping and Engine Tuning Specializing in H series Engine Management |
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#3 |
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Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: pensacola, florida, U.S.
Posts: 147
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no... just i knew that the two rod bearings spun over and melted to each other... but the crank and rod looked fine... i might have to check again...
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#4 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: DFW Area, TX
Posts: 1,974
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If the crank and rod were fine, why are you using an oversized bearing? A bearing that's 0.030" oversized is much, much thicker than the OEM size.
What were the bearing clearances used for reassembly?
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98 Prelude #27 NASA Texas H2/PTB |
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#5 |
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Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: pensacola, florida, U.S.
Posts: 147
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well i went to a local import parts shop and they gave me f20 main bearings and b18 rod bearings.. i put them in and it still knocks...so i talked to the honda dealer and the parts manager said i need the exact bearings for the motor...( the matching color and all)... but thats like 300 dollars...
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#6 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: DFW Area, TX
Posts: 1,974
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You obviously didn't have a factory service manual did you?
So you "rebuilt" the engine and just toss a random set of bearings into the engine without measuring clearances or anything? If so, that engine probably has more problems than just a little knock. ![]() Chances are the crank is toast if you've run it for any amount of time after this "rebuild." $300 for bearings is a tad high, it's probably around $200 or so. I'd have to check. However that $300 is going to be cheap compared to the cost you're going to incur by having to get a new engine.
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98 Prelude #27 NASA Texas H2/PTB |
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#7 | |
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Tuner "replica"
Join Date: Oct 2002
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Quote:
did you check bearing clearances? how do you know what sized bearing you needed?
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Blake's Wiki ECU chipping and Engine Tuning Specializing in H series Engine Management |
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#8 |
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Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: pensacola, florida, U.S.
Posts: 147
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yea but i dont drive the car like that.... i havent driven the car for like 5 months... but the crank seems fine though... that one rod did seem a little bent in when i put the bottom back on the rod... when doing the bearings...
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#9 |
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Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: pensacola, florida, U.S.
Posts: 147
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Yea i think i need to get the right sized bearings for the engine...(h23) i think i need sized bearings because the rod still knocks after ive changed them....
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#10 |
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Tuner "replica"
Join Date: Oct 2002
Posts: 13,312
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are you serious dude?
the damage done to the crank may not even be visible. I'd say pretty much everything is trashed now a bent rod with a new bearing is just gonna expletive up the bearing and journal even more.
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Blake's Wiki ECU chipping and Engine Tuning Specializing in H series Engine Management |
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#11 |
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Tuner "replica"
Join Date: Oct 2002
Posts: 13,312
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u could have at the least plastigaged everything
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Blake's Wiki ECU chipping and Engine Tuning Specializing in H series Engine Management |
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#12 |
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if it looked bent, did you get the rod checked/check it yourself for straightness?
this whole story seems a bit fishy to me....
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"i am currently looking for a h22 engine or a v tech engine. http://images.honda-tech.com/set1/smile/emsmile.gif " -pkolaboy |
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#13 |
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Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: pensacola, florida, U.S.
Posts: 147
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lol i have a plastgauge now... but it might be to late... i dont noe... i think theres still hope in all this bearing shit... it it comes down to it... ill have to swap...
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JDM h22a now running stronger then ever... |
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#14 |
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Senior Member
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You should plan to get a new shortblock.
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#15 |
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Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: pensacola, florida, U.S.
Posts: 147
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no man the actual rod isnt bent... just when i went to put the bottom part of the rod back on... it was harder then the others to get back on... so i dont think that the rod is acutlly bent...
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#16 |
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Tuner "replica"
Join Date: Oct 2002
Posts: 13,312
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bent is a general term describing any distortion. When you spin a rod bearing, immense heat is focused onto the rod and journal. Heat causes distortions, especially when a large amount of force is being placed onto that exact area.
the least i would tell you to do is break the block down and have the mains align honed (unless completely screwed) and have the crank journals micropolished along with checking for straighness and runout Gonna need to replace the rod which spun the bearing as well.
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Blake's Wiki ECU chipping and Engine Tuning Specializing in H series Engine Management |
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#17 |
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Senior Member
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did you even do anything the the rod journals?
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#18 |
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Master H Technician
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this years April's Fools Joke is starting way too early...
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If you're into cars you must understand the golden rule: You have 3 words: Fast, Cheap, Reliable... The problem is, you can only choose 2 of them. 89 Prelude Si 642whp 502tq @ 29psi H22a 1/4 mile: 10 sec club 1993 Si H22a |
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