Okay here is an updataed list of questions I have.

1. How can you tell if Vtec Engages
2. Can the car be driven with a broke radiator fan?
3. How can I check the manual transmission fluid without using a lift.
4. There is a slight bog at times.
5. When I got the car in 3rd gear over 5k rpm the CEL light comes on.

More to come, thanks for your help

Modified by Acidcrakker at 3:36 PM 11/20/2007

I believed it might be wired wrong.

Dangers of Driving around with out the radiator fan?

1 guy said no, and the other guy said yeah. How can I check this. I know that it has to be on level ground to check, but if I put it on a jack it wont be level.

Just don't let it break off in there.

The fan thing definitely sounds like a wiring problem, have you messed with that since it worked last?

The smoke could just be antifreeze leaking from somewhere and smoking when the thing is getting hot...

Quote, originally posted by mgags7 »

You can check it from the top. Just take the intake off, and you'll juuuust be able to loosen the filler bolt, get a piece of paper towl and see if it gets wet when you stick it in

Okay

Quote, originally posted by mgags7 »

The fan thing definitely sounds like a wiring problem, have you messed with that since it worked last?..

Yeah the wiring was done by someone else. I just plugged everything in where I thought it went.

Quote, originally posted by mgags7 »

The smoke could just be antifreeze leaking from somewhere and smoking when the thing is getting hot...

Well Im 100 percent its the fan. It dont come on at all, and when I unplugged it the smoke went away.
Is it safe to say that the car will be fine with a non-working fan

Thank GOD, cause I would of been in some deep Shi* had it not been.

How long should it take the motor itself to break in. It was made in 93 and GOD knows how long it has sat for. Its kinda ruff at idol.

Also the oil is pitch black. I had previously dumped 3 quarts of some prestone in to see a change, and there was nothing. Im gonna do a bunch of oil changes but I dont know exactly how long I should wait inbetween changes, seeing as how I do beleive that the oil should mix together for a while

Also there is a slight lag at times, when I give it gas. What could be the meaning of this.

Another thing, it throws a CEL light in 3rd gear around 5k rpms. But turns off when you restart the car. How can I check what code its throwing. I know its something with the blinking lights but Im unsure how its done.

1. It already sounds like its running rugged. Im gonna have to get a media clip up.
2. Toggle Switch Is what I was thinking, it just has positive and negative terminals right?
3. Thank God
4. Im gonna work over the next 2 weeks to figure that out, the timing belt was just replaced, Injectors will be replaced, alone with Plugs and wires. Cap and rotor should be good, it was good when it was on the H23,but the mechanic took it apart for some unknown reason, and im gonna change the oil in 100 miles.
5. Im gonna have to get that cell light to come on but prob when I have time to
play with it, right now its time for cheese steak and moziralla sticks

Also how can I jump that thing to make it blink?

Would a faulty Vtec cause that to happen.

Its EGR

Well the fan is unhooked for now. I have to test it when I get more time to play with it, probally thursday or friday. If it dont work, then I need a new one, if it does work, its getting hooked up to a toogle switch.

Quote, originally posted by baselude »

does your fan spin if you touch power to it or is it seized up?

So I got a code 1 which is oxygen sensor #1
Code 12 which is EGR

Okay Where should I go from here.

Update on Code 1

Code 1 is the oxygen Sensor in my downpipe. Now before I did the swap it was fine, nothing at all. What does the Oxygen Sensor in the downpipe exactly read?
It has a 2" Outlet on it,should I just get it fabbed up to a 2.5 would that stop it from throwing the code

Modified by Acidcrakker at 10:14 PM 11/20/2007

The power of the search button is great, just very time consuming.

Code 12 says that its the EGR, and that it mostly Needs to be cleaned out. So in order to fully do that I would have to unbolt the intake mani, clean it out good and reinstall that?

Does that sound about right?

And do you think that Code 12 and Code 1 are together. So If I clean out the intake mani both codes will go away.

Modified by Acidcrakker at 10:22 PM 11/20/2007

also.. the EGR just has two bolts that hold it onto the top of the IM... no need to take the IM off. I just had to take mine off and it's a pain. you might also just need a new EGR gasket or to spray it out with carb cleaner/brakleen.

Couple of questions

1. I did some minor work today on the car. Switched Fuel injector resistors. Swapped the h22a resistor for the h23. That should be okay, a good source told me they are the same. Anyone else know off the top of your head?

2. For the vaccum, part, while installing I broke one of the Selonids on the TB. Its the one that sits on the bottom of the intake mani. Now I just broke off the part that connects the selonid to Vac hose. I was able to melt it back on. But its prob a crappy connection. Any thoughts on that?

That box controls the IABs, you should be able to find another one for cheap.